| ID: 2871 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: blue smoke when changing gear Question: as soon as my 5 is warmed up it blows a big cloud of blue/white smoke from the exhaust just as i am letting the clutch out after changing up the gears it does it more when it is hot Answer: sounds like this could be turbo seals or even worn piston rings. get a compression check on the cylinders, and then check that the blades on the turbo dont have excessive wobble. if the cylinder pressures are down then this indicates worn piston rings. if you got alot of play in the turbo blades then your turbo is fecked. :-( |
| ID: 2872 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cutting Out Question: My 5 keeps cutting out when driving however it does not do it consistently. However it only does it when the turbo kicks in but again it doesn't do it all the time. Once it cuts out, it will not start for about 20 minutes. Just before it dies you can hear a bit of popping and banging in the exhaust and the rev needle goes haywire and also the oil pressure gage drops off. Any suggestions? Answer: think that might be your pick up sensor .. get a multi meter then get it to do fault . quickly measure the res of the pick up at the grey plug or if you got a ph 1 at the plug on AEI should be around 200 ohms if not let it cool and watch res see how mutch it changes ..the pick up can go eather open circuit or closed with temp |
| ID: 2873 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: blue smoke part Deu Question: hello mighty one.......will this blue smoke cause my car to fail the MOT????? as its up next week? also if the seals have gone, is it expensive to fix????.......and is that the more reason i can smell burning oil when it comes through the air vents? THanx Answer: not sure about the MOT aspect, but i'd reckon its not good.... if the turbo seals have gone it could prove quite pricey... if its a standard blower it may be cheaper to get a second hand unit... |
| ID: 2874 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: overboosting Question: hi when i am in 5th gear my car strts to overboost when i get to 100 mph Answer: really? is there actually a question here? do i see any question marks?... nope! pull one of the wires off the overboost sensor, it should sort this. |
| ID: 2875 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: group A head gasket? Question: ok thanks wiz. the only reciepts i could find was one from gt tuning for having the head bolts re-tightened or re-torqued. i know that you get that done after having a gasket replaced or so i read somewhere, why else would they do that do you think? cheers almighty 1 Answer: if you got gttuning receipts, for retorque then, you will definately have a Meillor Corteco headgasket (grp a) put on at the same time. aiiiii! |
| ID: 2876 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: BLUE smoke Question: hello............you say that the blue smoke im getting is from the valve stem seals then............my mate also said that to me.........he said that is going to cost loads as its a engine rebuild.........is that true????........can you take it to a normal garage or is it off to the specialist???? Answer: replacing the valve stem seals is not a rebuild worthy job! its just a head off job! then with a spring compressor take out the valves and replace the seals with some 'uprated' ones. These are of a different design to the normal turbo items.- a solid loop of metal on them instead of a spring. |
| ID: 2877 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: emissions Question: hi, been for an mot this week and the mechanic informed me that the emissions were quite high, im slightly over fuelling with larger jets than standard. anyway, is there an emissions limit for the year of my car('87)? if so, do you know what the limits are? cheers for your help Answer: no idea, ask your friendly MOT tester, and he should give you the correct CO readings... |
| ID: 2878 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: con rods Question: little ends are a bit suspect but no one in this area does new bushes does this mean that I need new rods if so where can you get them Answer: im not sure renault even sell new rods! i've never asked them! could be a second hand piston/rod job.. although...isnt the little end (gudgeon pin) hot pressed into the rod, and hence when your little ends go, isn't it just play in the piston?? so you'd have to get your gudgeon pins pressed out and some new ones hot pressed in... |
| ID: 2879 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Earthing point Question: Where is the best place to earth a I.C.E install in a renault 5. (its for two amps in the boot) Thanks Answer: there is an earthing point under the rear passenger side light. whch funnily enough is quite near the boot. ;-) |
| ID: 2880 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Interior Switches Question: Wiz, I wrote you about an interior switch the other week (Q:2867) You said to send you a pic of the switch - well i've put a picture of it on my profile for you to have a gander at - as i couldn't find a way of getting the pic to you. If you have an suggestions as to what it might be for - that'll be great ta. Cheers Mate Answer: well...with the car running, and the bonet open, try switching the switch. i reckon its an incar fan switch. it looks like a non- original unit.....so i rckon a previous owner added it to keep the car cool....potentially. check yer external lights too, as it could also be a kill switch for your rear lights...ideal for hiding from pursuing 'plod'.... |
| ID: 2881 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: knocking Question: hi,just want to pick your brains. i have recently changed the engine for a second hand one and when it first runs from cold there is no problem but when the engine warms up there is a slight knocking from what sounds like bottom end. but only on tick over not when revs increased. which usually goes first the big ends (ie change of shells). little ends or crankshaft bearings. any help would be much appreciated. jon Answer: big ends usually go first. are you POSITIVE its not tappets? the choice you are facing with is do you a) take the car apart and replace the crank/little ends (whatever is wrong) b) or leave it until it gets worse/ comes a cropper. id leave it for a bit, until you are definately sure its something important.....get a second opinion from a mate though. |
| ID: 2882 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: using to much fuel Question: i have recently put an pipercross induction kit on but since then it has been using a lot of fuel so i took to be tuned bloke said it was more or less fine just ticking over a bit fast. now its still using alot of fuel and it stoles at low revs. Answer: sounds like you have got a problem thats not linked to your air filter at all. sounds suspiciously like one of your carb jets is blocked. try removing the large brass screw located on the drivers side of the carb, take it apart and clean thoroughly. also make sure that you actually have a mixture screw, and that it aint blown out... also check to see that the breather system still has it's restrictors in, i.e 1.7mm hole going to manifold and 7mm hole going to turbo inlet pipe.... |
| ID: 2883 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 17"" Wheels Question: Alright Wiz, Me AGAIN !! I'm thinking of purchasing a set of 17's ... what mods to i have to make to make em fit .. ?? Or do you reckon it would be best to just stick with 15's .. ?? Answer: 17's look very bling-bling. you need spacers, arches trimmed and a lump hammer on the bottom of the shocks to make em fit.You feel alot of bumps with them, and they tend to 'tramline'. 15's look less in yer face, but are alot easier to live with, and require no arch mods. choice is yours innit geeza?- aiiiiight? |
| ID: 2884 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: blue smoke (lol...this must be pissing you off) Question: ok......if the stem seals have gone........is it important to get it done straight away?.......do i have to get it done straight away or can i wait till i have enough dollars to fix it?..........also the bearings on my back wheel have gone. is it true that i need a press to take/replace the bearings or can i do the job myself???????/thanx oh mighty one.......we all love you long time Answer: Mr Yulie! if the stem seals are on there way out, then its no great problem. just alittle annoying, due to the smoke drifting around. I'd reckon that it may be more serious, but i can't be sure. try workin longer hours for Ronald, then you spend less time in your car, hence less smoke.. ;-) :-P |
| ID: 2885 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: EH???? Question: wait a minute.......how do you know i work for Maccies???????....im getting worried......i know your a turbo wizard but not a proper wizard......lol......who are you really...... Answer: You don't get this job from being a nobody mate. You gotta have connections and fingers in many pies...including a Big Mac or two...*lol* |
| ID: 2886 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Poor Idle Question: Hi must be the millionth person to ask, anyway when stationary the car idles between 900-1500 dropping and rising all the time, and with out me putting my foot on he gas. (it seems ok when the choke is out). It all started when i went abit nuts and reved almost all the way round the dial, when i checked on any damage i noticed that the mixture screw was missing, not sure if this was a coincidence, but replaced it and ever since i have had a problem with the idling. All the relevant part were new before the incident, but checked the leads, plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm, carb jets, to be sure but still no good, have checked the carb and pipes coming off it and no noticealbe damage. Open to any suggestions, and hope u can help Tim Answer: funnily enuff ive done exactly the same thing. Missed 5th gear down the motorway, tussling with an Audi...*lol*- came off next junction, died straight away. sounds like you need to clean out the carb. first try the idle jet (big brass screw on drivers side of carb). then try taking the carb of and cleaning the 'slot' next to the throttle plate (brass flap) then clean the removeable base bit...all these areas effect idling. |
| ID: 2887 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: A-P Fan WIRES Question: Dear Wiz, Have replaced A-P fan and it now works (tested it by shorting across the terminals on heat shield and carb switches). But on heat shield sensor, the switch has 1 red and 1 blue wire attached (same colour as on carb sensor). But heat shield has extra red wire with spade terminal. What's it for, please? Answer: sounds like one of the terminals that fits to that strange green resistor that hangs off the bulkhead, thats found on ph 2 cars. if it dont appear to do anything, electrically insulate it and leave it alone.... |
| ID: 2888 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tailgate Question: wizrad if i have my tailgate flushed and put my number plate at the bottom of my bumper will i still need number plate lights or will it be ok Answer: you deff need no plate lights if one it has to be in the middle if two evenly spaced eather side |
| ID: 2889 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fill her up Question: Wiz, The car doesnt take more than £5 to start with before the fuel nozzle cuts off, then it doesnt take more than about a quid at a time. If I fill it really slowly it takes more. Could this be a problem with the non-return flap from the aux tank to the main tank ?? If it is can this be changed without taking the main tank out & just removing the aux tank. [it just had a brand new main tank & I dont want to take it off again !!] Answer: i get the same problem. :-( i find its worse with Optimax, as it seems more frothy/bubbly than other fuels...ie. LRP or even super plus. it could be a problem with the non return flap, or it could be a breather problem...i.e one could be squashed when you put the new tank in, hence it aint removing the air in the tank quick enuff when you fill her up!;-) id just suffer in silence. |
| ID: 2890 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ebc brake pads Question: Just a quickie, need to replace brake pads.... do i need to take the brake luid cap when changing pads?? Answer: you dont have to rem the cap but its not a bad idea to remove the cap as it will stop any back pressure making the pistons easier to push back |
| ID: 2891 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 16S? Question: HELLO, IM LOOKING TO FIT 16S ON MY R5 AND I WAS WONDERING IF I WOULD NEED TO DO ANY WORK ON THE ARCHES. IT HAS NOT BEEN LOWERED YET. THANX Answer: you'll probably need to trim the rear bumper slightly. depends on tyre choice and offset. |
| ID: 2892 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo Question: ok cheers for the last 1. iv also been told that iv had a 360 thrust bearing fitted whats involved with that? has the turbo been rebuilt do u think? thanks again :-) Answer: original equipment turbos tended to have bearing which is 270°. this doesnt support the turbo shaft as well (i think). the 360 bearing is better, but better still if it has oil ways embossed/drilled in it.... u cant tell from external appearances, whether a turbo has a 360° bearing or not...hence people can spin you a yarn, about this and that inside the turbo, and you'd never know. |
| ID: 2893 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: GEARING Question: Dear Wiz, I think speedo and/or tacho may be reading incorrectly. What is mph/1000 rpm in 4th and 5th please on 195/55 tyres. Thanks! Answer: no idea matey. my head hurts, im tired, its 2.30am, i gotta be up at 8am.... get a tape measure out, measure the perimeter of the wheel. then work out what the speedo should read....as we all know in 4th gear the gearing is 1:1.... |
| ID: 2894 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Head Question: I bought a 5 for a couple of hundred quid it came with 5 cylinder heads one of them is different to the rest the exhaust manifold only has 8 bolts where as the others have 12 is this a 5 turbo head or just a normal 1400 head Answer: normal head. |
| ID: 2895 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bleed? Question: Alright boss. One of the water hoses to my inlet manifold developed a small split and managed to p*ss a bit of my coolant out. I've got Samco hose set no.4 to go on, and whilst I've got to do a bit of a bleed I'm going to pop a sparkly new header tank on.... Obviously doing all that will lose me quite a bit of water from the sytsem! So the question is (and forgive my mechanical ineptitude) what's the best method to top up the levels? Obviously its going to have air locks all over the shop when I've changed the pipes out. How do I sort it? Would it be better to bleed the system dry (bearing in mind it doesn't need a flush or anything) and start again? If so, what's the best method to use to bleed it? (the Haynes manual seems pretty confusing on this!) Sorry about the long question fella. Cheers, Tom Answer: don't bother bleeding the system dry, are you a sucker for hard work or what? fit the pipes. open the bleed valves. fill the expansion tank. then blow into the expansion tank, holding the water return pipe (smaller pipe to top of tank) keep filling the tank and blowing until the bleed screws have let all ther air out...and stopped whistling...then whilst blowing close all the bleed screws. voila...bled system |
| ID: 2896 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Servicing Question: Hi, Wizard of the GT Turbo..... I have had the following done to the car before i bought it 4 yrs ago i have always been curious of the BHP it produces. 04/96-MD14 Hybrid Turbo, 05/96-Uprated intercooler, bleed valve, Had uprated jet but changed to standard when carburettor was reconditioned, Scorpion Full system 10/98-K&N Element Air Filter, Dump Valve-Power zone, B8ev Spark plugs. So having always seviced it at Graham Goodes.... they have charged me £135 every time....also checking the co2 and setting the boost to around 16psi However i wish to do the service myself this time and save the xtra monies and rolling road it......What do u think from ure wizardery knowledge the BHP could be (roughly) an where is the best place to go.... as i would have around £63 after buying :- Mobile Motorsport £32. 8Bev Spark plugs £25 Oil filter £7.50 Fuel Filter £7.50........£72 squid.....leaving me with £63 for a tune up and rolling road session... Would u think the items above are sufficient for a full service or do i need anything else...... Answer: i assume you not going to change the pads, or clean your air filter... at 16psi you are looking around 140-150bhp at a guess. im not an accountant..... :-P |
| ID: 2897 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Idle jet ? Question: Excuse me mr wizard type person do i really need an idle jet as on my last carb i never had one  and on my new engine set up it idles over really lumpy..now its got an uprated cam ..but it shouldnt make much difference from what ive been told...so do i really need one ? Thanks Wiz ..... AIIIIIII ! p.s can you bend over for me? Answer: Dino, where's Fred and Barney these days? i can touch my toes, but remind me not to tie my shoelaces up in front of ya! guy a 'screw' from renault. it dont cost much. slip it gently into the correct hole, miss it, and you might plunge it into the brown grime that collects around the bottom of the carb base.;-) turn the screw in slowly, if it makes a difference then there you go, problem solved- you do need one! p.s bet you didnt realise i can edit your question too aiiii! AIIII! |
| ID: 2898 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: indicators Question: could you tell me why my indicators seem to be flashing very quick.and what i need to do to fix em? they were fine until i simply changed side repeaters...... Answer: one of the bulbs must be shot....check the rest of them on the side thats flashing quick |
| ID: 2899 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure/starvation Question: hi wiz just wanting a second opinion, my car is on its 3rd hybrid turbo the companywill not replace the turbos under warranty because they say its due to oil starvation, the engine is brand new and ive slapped on a standard turbo and it all seems ok. if there is oil starvation wouldnt this knack the engine aswell? or do you think they are taking the piss? the turbos have only done 5000 mile Answer: turbos are always dodgy....refunds are usually unheard of. they could be right. have you tried ungunking your one way valve in the oil feed to the turbo recently?- this apparently is a likely cause of turbo oil starvation. If yer oil pump is fecked then, you bottom end is likely to go caput too! its gotta be summat, why else would 3 go!!! |
| ID: 2900 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: incresing boost Question: Hi wiz after fitting my scorpion the car felt quicker and was still going to stanard boost (10 psi) untill it gets to over 5000 rpm then it will start to clime to enething up to 14 psi which is woring as my car will not be set up for that, and it did not do this before. I want to fit my in car boost but i will not be able to set it up corectley so it is limited to 16 psi (as it might incres after 5000 rpm) so i must get it sorted first. could it be my acuator that worn. Cheers and much apprication. Chris Miller Answer: are you running the cup mod? i.e do you still have the metal pipe fitted to the back of the turbo elbow? i'd firstly look at converting to the cup mod, as you've now messed with you back pressure, and this is effecting the way you actuator works. god, im good! ;-) |