| ID: 2431 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stalling when cold Question: wiz can you help me ,ive got a brand new gttuning gpA carb ,but when i first start the car when cold you have to hold the revs till the temp gauge goes to quarter or it stalls.When you pull the choke out its good for about 10secs then stalls.Its as if theres not enough revs could it be the fast idle adjustment.Ive had it tuned/plugs/leads etc runs fine when warmed up.Thanx for great work adam Answer: I suppose it could be the fast idle adjustment but it should run from cold with choke like standard. |
| ID: 2432 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Water inject Question: wiz, is it really worth fitting water injection or is it just another gimmick.Ive looked at 2 kits aquamist and noswizards but heard the pumps fail on the erl one.Do you know of anyone with these fitted and the difference in performance etc. Your advice would be appreciated. Answer: I have heard nothing but good things about ERL kit but nothing on NOS wizards kit. Water injection is a good way to increase boost levels with crappy fuel octain rating. The best thing would be to use 76 race fuel but it is blooming expensive so this makes water injection a viable alternative for high boost road cars. ERL also do a boost limiting valve that reduces boost if the water runs out or if the pump stops for some reason. |
| ID: 2433 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Won Question: Hi Wiz, I came to start my car today and it won't start. It turns over fine and i've fully recharged the battery, yet it doesn't fire up. I removed the King lead and checked for a spark, which there is. The weird thing is it fires up when you hold the king lead near the dizzy so it arks over, yet when you put the lead in it won't fire up???. Please help!! Thanks, Nath. Answer: Get a new cap! |
| ID: 2434 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: strange problem.. Question: Thanks in advance, here goes,my 5 is running ok under 2k but judders over 2k until i boost it up,it began when trying 2 get out of a busy junction i tried 2 accelerate hard when all power dropped and then came back(sounded like a boost pipe had come off),everything has been checked and changed,plugs, leads,dizzy cap,carb,boost pipes,intercooler,removed d.v,it tick`s over as normal but if i increase the revs steady to over 2k it judders,it has been set up on a r/r,please shed some light on the problem all knowing wise 1. Answer: Sounds like a blocked progression circuit in the carb. Try stripping and cleaning out the carb and all its jets. It may be worth using this opertunity to fit a complete rebuild kit. |
| ID: 2435 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: low power Question: when i have all my lights on the revs drop and if i have my brake lights on and use the windows the brake light dim real bad. Shall i get a bigger battery and a uprated alternator or is the prob somthing else? Answer: It could be down to bad connections on the alternator or battery. Try checking/cleaning all these before getting the alternator checked for charging and battery renewal. |
| ID: 2436 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: melted pistons Question: hi wiz i have just bought a 5 in the last month .on the way home the other night it died on me . the car has been modified slightly(hybrid turbo,group A carb,group A cylinder head gasket,ported and gas flowed head,dump valve,in car boost adjustment)it is putting out 200BHP at about 22psi boost.i have stripped the engine to find out what it was and found #3 piston had melted. i have ordered some new parts including low compresion pistons and liners do you think this will stop the same thing happening again or is there some thing else i need to do Answer: Get the fuelling checked as it was most likely running lean to get that hot and only use super unleaded or optimax unless you run octain booster. |
| ID: 2437 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine renovation Question: Thanks wiz in advance  Im taking my engine out 2nite to put the crank shaft and pistons/liners out of a spare engine in. Could you help with the following 1. Can i get the crank shaft out with out taking it out(i noticed i just need a small 2cm gap to get it out with the flywheel) 2. How do i remove liners and how i set them? 3. How i fit pistons with rings and all and shud i put a little oil around them when puttin into liners. 4. If i put this crank in its goin to b in a different timing from the 1 in it, how i make sure the valves and pistons will b working together. 5. After the rebuild, what way shud i run it it and what oil shud i use and for how long? Thanks very much and sorry bout the long msg. Gareth Answer: 1. Its quicker to take the full engine out. 2. Remove head, remove big end bearing cap and pull up piston and liner complete. 3. Read above! 4. Set the engine timing to top dead centre before removal and do the same before refitting. It will then be timed correctly. 5. No need to run it in as long as you use the same bearings on the same conrod/crank journal. |
| ID: 2439 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Love my car/hate my car/love my car/ hate... Question: A pleasure to make your acquaintance sir! After owning the car for 8 months (1st car btw) I'm beginning to see why there is a Turbo Wizard, why everybody praises the Turbo Wizard, and why people who own these cars generally have no money. In case this is helpful later on, I'll explain what's gone wrong so far... Head Gasket went (head warped also) and has been replaced with BB uprated gasket, starter motor replaced, shed loads of work on the electrics, boost pipes split (car sounded like a 747 but drove like a lawnmower!), rear tyres worn on outside incredibly quickly (??), and to top it all some dozey mare drove into the driver door when it was stationary completely crushing it. Other than this lot it's been fine. Mostly. Frikkin good fun though!! Anyway, point of my message is... 1) There's some weird s*** in the water - bubbly and brown (not oily at all) scummy stuff on the surface. Temp seems fine most of the time but the car seems to get through water very quickly - requires re-filling once every couple of week or two. No sign of water loss when stationary though. 2) Having already burned myself like a twat on the turbo, is it really advisable to take the heatshied off (it's a standard one, which is falling apart) considering it gets so hot? I've been offered a home-made alu one for £20 - would this suffice? 3) The boost gauge reads about half into the red at max boost - as far as I know the cars pretty much standard. Is this safe (I intend getting the intercooler S&F at some point soon)? 4) Occasionally, when the foot goes down, the car appears to backfire in 2nd, 3rd or 4th. It's when the turbo gauge reads around a halfway, just as it starts to really pull. This is followed by a large embarrassing cloud of black smoke. Although it doesn't occur that often, it could occur at any time, hot or cold. Most of the time it's fine, and there's no visible emission from the exhaust at all. I assume that cos of the boost being whacked up it's underfueling - sound about right? 5)Most worrying of all, it seems to have lost a lot of it's boost recently (following a week where I covered about 1000 motorway miles). The boost gauge still reads the same as always, and the engine sounds fine. The only real difference I've noticed apart from the loss of power is that the revs are getting higher, much quicker than the car feels like it's accelerating. It feels as though there's a lot of power getting wasted somewhere. Please don't say this sounds like the clutch. Please!!! Excuse the dodgy explanations - new to this car game - one hell of a steep learning curve with a GTT though :-) Thanks mate - appreciate you help. Jon Answer: 1) Could be rust from rad/block. Water loss may be due to headgasket, liner, or manifold. 2) Ally one may help a little but twin skinned stainless steel ones or BB Tunings kevlar one is better. 3) You are running somewhere in the region of 12-14psi and is close to the limit of standard jets for correct fuelling. 4) Sounds like the over boost switch is cutting the ignition. Look for the switch in the turbo to intercooler pipe and adjust the screw in the middle a little to stop the problem or just turn the boost down a bit by making the actuator arm longer. 5) CLUTCH! (Sorry had to say it!) Giving advice to beginner and experts alike is why i am here. Wish i got paid though! 
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| ID: 2440 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: holding back Question: hi when i try to pull off the car judders and it also has trouble ticking over Answer: Sounds like mixture screw missing or loose. |
| ID: 2441 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: front or back Question: did gordini`s have front mounted engines or back.turbo 2s was they back only Answer: Gordini had front mounted engine and turbo/turbo 2 is rear mounted. ok? |
| ID: 2442 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: charge cooler Question: wizard i have just put a pace charge cooler on my 5 gt turbo and are going to boost my car to 12psi min and 16psi max with a gt spider valve and boost control is that ok do i need to change the jets as well if yes how big (size) iam putting a bigger turbo on later tomcat one would i need to put the intercooler on to with the charge cooler in the summer when it gets hot? sorry about the long speech please help. Answer: You will need to get the car rolling roaded to get exact jetting but i guestimate a 130 main with 90 air corrector would do fine. I would use the intercooler as well if it is an alloy one but if it is standard then don't bother. |
| ID: 2443 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: membership Question: I joind the club about a month and a half a go and i have not yet receved anything in the post yet (membership card) i was wondering if you could help Answer: Mich (Membership secretary) and Bruce (her assistant) are getting through the backlog of membership packs now that they have the required items like stickers etc. Please be patient as there are about 150 to do! |
| ID: 2444 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: help please Question: i recently blew my head gasket, after getting another head from a friend and fitting this one its blown again but there was no pressure being put on the engine as i didn't take it passed three and a half rpm, any ideas would be welcome, wills. Answer: You have probably got a fuelling or timing problem unless the new head was warped! |
| ID: 2445 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: NO EXHAUST WHISTLE. Question: Hi Wiz my car currently produces no whistle from the exhaust and also pops back when i shut off the gas especially when going downhill any ideas.The car is standard other than an airfilter and group A dump valve and the scorpion exhaust.It drives pretty good most of the time but seems to miss a beat when i listen to it on tickover very briefly then it's ok again.I have had my carb refurbed so i'm not sure if it's a fuel problem.Sorry to drag the question out but your help would be most welcome.Thankyou WOZA. Answer: Get the fuelling set up correctly preferably on a rolling road. |
| ID: 2446 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smoking when fan comes in Question: hi wiz ! this may sound weird but is 100% true my cars had a new engine done 2000 mile on low boost running in period. last few days ive noticed smoke bellowing out of the side exit exhaust but it only does it when the cooling fan comes in when the fan stops the smoke fades away it smells oily and seems to do it when stood still i couldnt tell you the colour exactly because its always dark and freezing cold please help to solve this smoking problem which has cost me 2 grande and is still donig it Answer: Could be oil being drawn through the turbo seals as the load increases on the engine as the fan cuts in. |
| ID: 2447 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: minimum psi on in car boost Question: ive now sorted my in car boost and have set the minimum boost level to 6-7 psi using the wastegate rod( is it ) coming off the turbo , with a spanner. and the max boost will be set at 15-16 psi with a 130 main jet. is it ok to run less than standard boost this way, without a second bleed valve etc? will it affect the turbo in any way? Answer: Its fine. |
| ID: 2448 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fitting nos to a normally aspirated 1.4gtl Question: Alrite wiz, busy as usual i c how big bhp jet shud i get.Cud i get a 50bhp jet and what will i have to do to the car?Thanks Gareth Answer: Theoretically you can run a wet 50bhp kit with no other mods but i expect the engine wouldn't like it. Speak to the wizard of nos at www.noswizard.com for more info. |
| ID: 2449 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Whistle Question: Hi wiz, when i bought my turbo it was running toss, i changed the vacuum leads and fuel filter and now it runs mint but there is a whistle noise coming from the ecu area of the engine, only when the throttle is pressed and the boost guage is below zero? when the car boosts up the whistle stops? this is my first turbo so i'm not sure if its normal?? Answer: Could be a leaking vaccuum pipe or the diaphram in the vaccuum advance unit. |
| ID: 2450 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dump valve leaking boost Question: hi wiz, my dump valve is leaking boost until the turbo peaks then its ok, it still dumps off, the dump valve was on the car when i bought it but not connected up, it definatly isnt the fittings, the dump valve is less than 2 months old. thanks. Answer: Speak to the people you got the dv from as you may need a new/stiffer spring. |
| ID: 2451 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear lights pieces Question: hi m8, ive got a standard 5 gts and added a standard gtt bodykit but the back arch and the piece under the rear light doesnt line up, so i got some gtt pieces from someone of the website and there exactly the same as the ones of my gts, cant i do anything about this or was the pieces he sent me of a standard 5? cheers Answer: Are you sure the bodykit is fitted correctly as a small amount of misalignment can end up looking really bad. |
| ID: 2452 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pressure gauge Question: wiz, could you tell me the best place to connect a capilary oil pressure gauge to me 5.I was looking to connect between the turbo oil feed pipe as i could fit a union t-peice easily there ,dont know what pressures there thou.Can you help Answer: Pressure depends on oil system and oil pump but should be at least 4 bar. |
| ID: 2453 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Camber/Castor/Toe..... Question: My rear wheels are both pointing into the car more at the front than the back...the camber appears ok....the difference is about 1 to 1.5in. I know its affecting the handlin cos the back end feels like its stepping out when going at low speeds never mind 'high' speeds. Im getting some slight knocking and bumping noises from the back too...its not the exhaust cos ive checked...I think it could be all linked but then again. Answer: Sounds like the trailing arm bushes are knackered. |
| ID: 2454 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bleed valve Question: hi i have been told about putting a bleed valve in the rear actuator pipe what does it do Answer: It can be used to lower the boost below standard. Easier to just lengthen the actuator rod. |
| ID: 2455 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil Question: what is the best engine oil to use Answer: The best you can afford but usual choices include mobil 1 motorsport (not mobil 1) and Castrol RS 10w60 |
| ID: 2456 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: new re-built engine Question: Hi, im thinking of getting a re-built engine from BB tuning. Its the Yellow spec one with low compression pistons, Improved Fast road spec cylinder head, Optimised cam timing and a fully balanced with lightened flywheel. Will there be much Bhp gain compaired to a standard engine at the same boost levels? Thanks for your help. Answer: Bhp would probably be very similar at std boost but it will handle bigger boost better and give more gains. |
| ID: 2457 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Speedo Question: Does anyone have a problem with their speedo, or electrics in general ? Answer: YUP! |
| ID: 2458 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear lights pieces 2 Question: hi m8, continuing from my other question. yeh its fitted correctly, its lining up with the kit but the rear light pieces dont go wide enough to go level with the back arch, it really bugging me. if i cant do anythin about it, what other alternative could i do?? cheers wiz Answer: Try getting a bodyshop to mod the pieces to fit. |
| ID: 2459 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoking like a traction engine Question: Hi wiz My car is smoking hellishly on tick over with a thick white smoke smells like burning rubber and occasional bit of blue. Done a compression test all cylinders were 11.5 or 12 bar. Its not using any water or doesnt appear to use any oil. I had this problem with a new turbo that was fitted to the car cos it could of been the turbo oil seals so i was told to send it back now i a replacement and its the same problem but now its worse. When the car is under load you get an intial puff of blue then its clear but it comes back on over run and severly on tick over Cheers Jon Answer: Sounds like knackered valve stem oil seals. |
| ID: 2460 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: NO EXHAUST WHISTLE part2 Question: HI WIZ THANKS FOR YOUR ANSWERLAST TIME.I HAD CAR KRYPTON TUNED AND SET UP AND IT IS SOUND.BUT I STILL HAVE NO EXHAUST WHISTLE FROM MY SCORPION EXHAUST SYSTEM.IT'S BEEN ON THE CAR FOR 4 YEARS NOW AND WHISTLED FOR AGES BUT REFUSES TO NOW.IS THE EXHAUST COKED UP DO YOU THINK OR IS THERE AN AIR LEAK SOMEWHERE OR COULD IT BE SOMETHING ELSE.ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED AS I WANT THE BEAST TO WHISTLE LIKE SHE USED TO.THANKS MATE.WOZA.I Answer: I expect the whistle was related to a problem that has now been cured. |
| ID: 2461 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: overboost sensor Question: I am due to change my turbo for a larger one T25 and want to turn the boost up will the sensor in the pipe cause me any problems, if so how can they be cured? Answer: You can either disconnect the sensor or (if you have the adjustable one) adjust the boost level to a few psi above what you intend to run. |