| ID: 212 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fitting 17""ers Question: Alrite there wizard.just need to know exactly what mods are req 4 17"" rims. (from A to Z). NICE ONE Answer: Your best bet is to read Steve Rae's Guide to fitting 17's, found in the Articles section of this site. |
| ID: 213 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: shit blower Question: just wonderin wizard. can u fit any other heat blower coz i think these original 1nz r shit (not enuff power). ie from a scenic or something? Answer: I have never heard of anyone fitting an alternative blower. Try removing yours and cleaning it up to make it run more efficiently. |
| ID: 214 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Humming Noise Question: My car seems to be making a humming noise at above 60mph and when you drive the car hard it reduces to anything after about 40mph. Is this a wheel bearing or could it be something else? Answer: Sounds very much like a wheel bearing! Get it looked at as soon as possible to prevent further damage. |
| ID: 215 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Speedo Question: Any suggestions on why my speedo keeps failing. It started happening when going over bumps, then it failed completly. Every time I change my instrument cluster it solves the problem, but only for a while. Please help as its winding me up!! P.S I now have every set of instrument clusters in N.Ireland. Answer: Sounds like a dodgy connection on the plug at the rear of the speedo. Try wedging a small piece of plastic between the plug and the casing to improve the contact there. Works for me! |
| ID: 216 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: What are the relays for?? Question: I had the misfortune of driving whilst in a heavy downpour. End result I had to remove around four Answer: The relays are there to reduce the amount of current that has to run through the switches. The way you have wired things will only lead to the switches burning out very quickly! The relays should be wired back into the system as soon as possible to prevent risk of fire from overheating switches and wiring. |
| ID: 217 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Re-torquing head bolts. Question: I am about to raise the boost on my car to 16psi from standard and I was wondering if I should tighten the head bolts to prevent gasket failure. Is this a good idea and if so to what torque should I go up to? Thanking you in advance. Stephen Bethwaite. Answer: Torque the head bolts to about 55lbs/ft and you should be sorted! |
| ID: 218 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Too much fuel? Question: Hi Whiz, I have just had a hybrid turbo fitted with a 135 main jet and in car boost, I was really happy with it until my mate said when he was following me it was kicking out lots of black smoke, i.e. unburnt fuel, but it was fine when I put my foot to the floor. Should I expect this, or should I have it set up more acurately on a rolling road, the CO2 level was set to 1.5%. Also, I have had no head work done on the car, I have an ally intercooler, what would u recommend being the maximum boost I can run on the car (safely of coarse). Thanx Answer: There is no safe limit as every engine is different with wear etc but 20 psi seems to be ok on a mainly standard engine as long as it doesn't pink. The black smoke is more than likely fuel but you need it at high boost. Try getting it rolling road tuned and see if you can fit a smaller main jet and maybe a smaller air corrector and still have enough fuel at your set limit of boost. You can't have both worlds of fuel economy and performance on a carbed engine. |
| ID: 219 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Too cool for heat? Question: Dear Wiz,After fitting a copper radiator/low temp fan switch/'open' grill & removed the plastic covers over the heater fan (cracked & 'orrible), I've found the heater only blows cold air out! Would a shiny steel cover help retain any heat from the engine or just deflect it? Keep Wizzing! Matthew Carroll. Answer: Sounds to me like you have got an air bubble in the heater matrix when changing the radiator etc, which causes the cold air to come out. Try bleeding the cooling system again. I have found that blowing hard into the header tank while someone opens the bleed screws and then closes them when just water and no air comes out, works the best. |
| ID: 220 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost guage Question: my boost guage used to read -12 psi at idle now its -7. Is this bad? Cheers wiz. Answer: Does your dump valve still work? (If you have one) Either the diaphram is leaking or a pipe is. |
| ID: 221 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lower springs Question: wizard is there any place known that supplies springs lower than 35mm.40mm is ideal,ive tried prima and a few others but know joy.taking in the fact that i aint got the loot for coilovers,at the moment the turbz sitting on 35mm and it looks crap.can u help? Answer: There are two options if you dont want or can't afford coilovers. 1) Cut the ones you have (Not recommended) 2) Ring round the various tuners Sorry I don't know anyone off hand! |
| ID: 222 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: headunit position Question: can u give any step by step instructions to swap the headunit with the heater controls and vice versa as i have a flipdown unit and cant see diddly. Answer: Remove the stereo and heater controls as per the Haynes manual. Buy a second long heater control cable. File out dash until stereo fits in heater slot. Make surround to cover remaining hole in heater slot. Fit heater controls in stereo slot and run cables back to heater. Make surround to cover remaining hole in stereo slot. Enjoy new stereo position! This is a very general description but you should be ok. You will find many little awkward bits that will annoy you but it is worth it in the end! Why not take photos and write an article for the site when you do it? |
| ID: 223 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Piston Dump Valves Question: Hiya Wiz, thought I`d make an appearance...... You might have read recently on the chat page about BB Tuning`s `warning` about the piston dump valve causing detonation/head gasket failure. (A good article if you get the chance to have a look) Although I haven`t yet got in touch with them to find out more, what`s the Wiz`s verdict? I got the Bailey type, and although I`ve had it approx 2 years, I`ve never had a problem, even though when the car is v.cold it sometimes sticks slightly. I`m running higher than normal boost (14psi), which has been highlighted as a major factor. Please point me in the right direction, although I don`t want to and can`t really afford to splash out on a new D/V, I think that has long term benefits over detonation, I think you`ll agree! In eager anticipation....... Shilvers Answer: I must admit i have heard about these piston dump valves sticking before but have not come across it myself. Detonation only takes seconds to destroy an engine whereas no dump valve will only cause a problem if high boost is used for long periods. Therefore i would air on the side of caution and remove the piston dump valve until you can afford a new normal dump valve. Sell it to some Ford owner to subsidise the new one! :-) |
| ID: 224 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost guage again....soz Question: i'll check my dump valve but it is still v.loud. there are about a million different pipes that could be leaking how will i know which one? cheerz wiz. Answer: Just work through them systematically! |
| ID: 225 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: loss of power Question: on friday i was cruising around and i pulled up for a few minutes then when i went to take off the turbo was kicking in late and there was hardly any power at all in any gear but after 2-3 minutes the turbo came back as normal, there was no smoke or anything. is the turbo on its last legs? Answer: Sounds as if the turbo may have partially seized. Try putting fresh oil into the engine and see if this helps. It may well be on its last legs or it could just be a build up of carbon deposits etc. |
| ID: 226 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: OVER BOOSTING Question: ALRIGHT WIZ,I've just dropped a fresh engine in with kent cam,alloy intercooler,bailey dv. I've run the car in (1500 miles) had an oil change bla bla but the turbo boost gauge goes of the clock.WHY?. Also are kent cams tappy? help!! Answer: I take it you are using the standard turbo as you haven't said. Do you have adjustable boost or a different actuator? Has the actuator arm been adjusted? Has the pipework been plumbed in back to front on the actuator? More questions than answers I know but you didn't really tell me much! The cam may tap a bit if it is really high lift but it is more likely the tappets need adjusting properly. |
| ID: 227 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Exhaust manifold gasket Question: Dear mr wizard. i have been having a problem with manifold gaskets for the last year or so i repeatedly have had gp.A gaskets fitted but they seem to only last up to 6-8 months at a time .I have a scorpion exhaust fitted Can you please help point me in the right Direction and give me an idea on how long they should last ........THANKS Answer: Group A manifold gaskets???????? I take it your gaskets are blowing bits off of them? Try getting the face of the manifold skimmed flat by a local machine shop and use genuine Renault gasket (part number 7700855962 about £11) It is metal reinforced and lasts a lot longer than cheaper alternatives. Also use the proper locking nuts for the manifold studs (part number 7703032048 about 23p) This should sort things out for you nicely. I have known genuine gaskets to last for years with no problems. |
| ID: 228 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: spider??? Question: I have a very simple question:What is a spider valve?...What does it do?... Answer: It is a valve that allows the adjustment of boost minimum and maximum settings when used in conjuction with a double port actuator (like standard) and an in car boost adjuster. |
| ID: 229 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo & intercooler Question: how goes it wizard?.ive heard u can put a turbo from a rover tomcat on a 5 is this true if so from what other cars?. and i was wondering if u can use a larger intercooler from another turbod car (dont know which) for bumper mounting?. Also following a recent new engine my boost dont kick in until 6000 rpm whats that about eh?? and my temperature gauge goes right up (ive just had a comp head gasket),the red light comes on and the fan dont even kick in and to top it all everything is new, u name it its new.everything seemed alright until gave it back to be tuned (yeah right),After id done the bedding in bit of course(1500 miles). is this £3500 wasted on the engine. heeeeelp meeeeeeee. Answer: Yes you can use the tomcat turbo but it needs to be suited to your cars spec for it to work at an advantage. In theory you can use any T2 or T25 turbo but again they need to be matched to your engine for best results. Boost at 6000rpm sounds like your turbo exhaust housing is WAY too big or the exhaust manifold has been ""flowed"" and gas speed through the turbo is now so low that it can't spin it up. The over heating thing sounds like your cooling system needs bleeding properly to get rid of air pockets. If you drive around with the temp gauge red light on then yes it will be £3500 wasted! Get it to a reputable tuner as soon as possible or get someone out to you to sort the cooling system. Don't drive it!!! |
| ID: 230 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ajustable Actuators Question: Wizard, Can you tell me how an ajustable actuator works?? Does ""adjustable"" mean that you have to take it apart and fit a different spring for a different boost level or does it mean you can lenghten / shorten the arm for a different boost level??? I ask because recently I fitted a new turbo (Hybrid) that has a billet adjustable actuator. Also, when refitting an actuator to a turbo what position should the wastegate arm be in? (penny valve fully open? penny valve fully close? in between???) Any help would be appreciated....... Chris Roberts Answer: Adjustable in this case means it is rebuildable with different springs to set the boost. All actuators are adjustable to some extent due to the arm being on a threaded portion, but this is meant more for preload than actual boost pressure adjustment. The penny valve as you call it is to be fully closedwith you having to pull the arm over the valves connector with some force, ie preloading the spring. |
| ID: 231 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stutter under acceleration. Question: When accelerating in my 5 if you put your toe in the car stutters then goes. The boost gauge sweeps up to full boost smoothly but the car doesnt want to go and then all of a sudden woosh your away. I did have a piston dump valve and thought it may be sticking then closing properly to stop the stutter. But i have since removed it and the problem persists. How can i find the problem ( any pointers were to look) without throwing money at it till i stumble upon the problem? I have already replaced the spark plugs, HT leads, Distributor cap, and rotor arm, but it still stutters for a couple of seconds then works as it should. cheers Glenn Answer: Sounds to me like your accellerator pump is either sticking or seized. This is the little spring covered bar at the bottom on the drivers side of the carb. Try revving the engine while looking at this bar, it should move easily with the throttle movement. If it isn't then get a carb rebuild kit or just strip and clean the affected parts noting exactly where the nut is up the thread of that bar as this determines how much fuel is pumped on every throttle push. Good luck, Wiz. |
| ID: 232 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: overboosting switch Question: dear wizard i have an overboost problem. i have disconnected the o.b switch (because it kept cutting in). and noticed the needle goes about half way into the red. is this normal with standard boost pressure? do i need a new o.b switch? also if you increase boost in anyway does that mean you have to disconnect the o.b switch to stop it cutting in? cheers alex Answer: If your overboost switch has a small screw in the middle then it is adjustable, if not then you will either have to buy an adjustable one or disconnect it. Standard boost should go to about the mark that is in line with the ""B"" of turbo on the gauge. Try lengthening the actuator arm to reduce the boost if you are concerned that it is too high. |
| ID: 233 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Y no clear rear lights? Question: Dear Wizz, Why are there no clear rear light clusters asvailable anywhere? If the companies say there is not enough demand, I think we should send them a list of people who want them! Once they have made clear ones, they could then make coloured ones! I think EVERY G.T turbo owner would like colour-coded/clear rear lights so whats up? Matthew Carroll Answer: It costs a lot to develope these sorts of products and demands although there may not be high enough to warrant production costs. I know of two companies that were developing clear lights but have not heard anything from either of them in a while. I will send out the elves to gather some more news. |
| ID: 234 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Preload Question: Wizard, Further to my question about adustable actuators, you mentioned pre-loading of the actuator spring. What affect will preloading the spring have on boost pressure? Many thanks again Chris Roberts Answer: The more preload on the spring the more boost pressure is needed to open the wastegate. This means you get more boost!! It will only work so much until you need a bigger spring to get more boost. |
| ID: 235 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: noise from wheel Question: Wiz, ive got a problem witch seems to be coming from the front drivers side wheel ,when turning a right hand corner fast or slow i get this noise sometimes it sounds and feels like the tyres flat other times it taps and knocks .Its had an mot recent and not been picked up ,to me i thought it could be the drive shaft worn can you help thanks... Answer: Could be driveshaft, wheel bearing or suspension joints/bushes, get it checked by a local garage. These faults can come on quickly so it may not have been there at the MOT. |
| ID: 236 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Next step Question: Wiz, could you tell me what you think should be an ideal next step for perfomance gains on my 5 cos theres that many companys saying one or the other.At the moment its got alloy inter.(pace),dump valve,ss 4"" exhaust,re-jetted carb,in car adjustable boost,ngk b8 plugs,grp.A hoses.Its running about 18psi on a universal turbo dont know what type or spec.Your help would be grateful. Answer: Adam, Your really on the limit with the mods you have at the moment, don't forget reliability is the name of the game. To go further is going to be a bit more involved with engine work being on the top of your list. From there more fueling and inter/chargecooling mods are going to be required to further increase the boost pressure. Good luck wiz |
| ID: 237 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: intercooler?? Question: wizard,is it possible to fit some sort of small but powerful fan in front or behind the intercooler, thus pushing or pulling cold air through it??. if so what would you suggest i do? another thing are the bumpers held up by anything else besides the mounts on the wings? coz mines hanging like thers to much weight (bumper is lighter than original). Answer: Raj, Mounting a fan by the intercooler would seem a good idea, but in fact it impedes air flow through the intercooler itself. This in turn reduces the effectiveness of the intercooler, have you thought about a water spray kit to improve efficiency? Leave a message on the board and maybe one of my understudies will enlighten you on your quest. In regard of the bumper, they have four fixing points:- 2 from the subframe at the front and 1 each side located inside the wheelarch. Good luck Wiz |
| ID: 238 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fitting a gearbox Question: Hi Turbo wizard, My gearbox is due for re-newal as my 2nd gear syncromesh is virtually non existant which means i will only have 2nd gear for a little while longer. My question is, do i have to replaced it with another r5 gearbox, or is there one thats equivilant that i can put straight on? Any advise would be appreciated, Regards Chris Cook Answer: Chris, All gearboxes with the JB3 tag will suit your car, however have you thought about a reconditioned item? Although a little more expensive initially you'll get a warranty, which is best with such an involved job such as gearbox replacement. Try one of my many tuner friends wiz |
| ID: 239 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Conversion Question: Dear Wizard I'm seriously considering having an engine conversion on my beloved 5. I'm aware of several available conversions and know people who have a 5 with either a 2.0 16v Laguna engine or a 1.7 volvo 440 turbo engine. However these people purchased these cars with these conversions all ready done and could'nt tell me anything of great value. Please could you give me any info you have on these conversions as to tuning petentual, feesability, cost etc etc? Thanks!! Answer: Martin, As we all know big cc's = more power for the amount of boost used. I've seen a few of these conversions in the beloved 5, with onlya few successfull. The main reason they fail is that not enough time effort and funds are put into them. It's not cheap to do so if you go ahead then be prepared to spend the money. Good luck Wiz |
| ID: 240 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Door Pod Question: Yo Wiz! Is there any company that makes ready to fit door pod's, for my component speakers (6"" woofer) Answer: Raj, To my wise knowledge nobody prefabs door pods for speaker fitment, try Carisma on 01206 564455 Wiz |
| ID: 241 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Information Question: Wizard, I'll be taking my 5 of the road soon to carry out some engine work, one thing I have to do is fit a new uprated clutch. Does the engine have to come out to fit the new clutch?? If the engine does have to come out is there anything else worth doing while it's out??? I'm one of those people who wants to kill 2 birds with 1 stone!!!!......if you know what I mean. Cheers Chris Roberts Answer: Chris, Common sence there my friend, the clutch can be done without the removing the engine but, do any other jobs need doing i.e manifold gasket. If so it may be worth just removing the engine to check over for any oil leaks also. Hope that helps Wiz. |