| ID: 182 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Back Firing - Pinking?? Question: I've just fitted a hybrid turbo to my 5 along with a billet adjustable actuator, now I'm driving it pretty steady for the first 300 miles or so to run the turbo in and then do an oil change etc. However.....I couldn't resist flooring it the other day and I got the most tremendous back fire or bang from within the engine!! I asked for the actuator to be set to about 10psi until I get it tuned so as it would run correctly. Is my car pinking because it's runing lean????? rejet the car?? and if so what size jet?? Many thanks Chris Roberts Answer: You say you have a hybrid but not what type it is. Just because it is set to 10 psi doesn't mean it will be the same as it was before due to the better flow charactoristics of a bigger turbo. In other words, it may be moving a lot more air to produce the same boost causing the mixture to run lean. Try a bigger jet 150 seems to be a common choice and see if the problem goes. If not get back to me with more details on your engine spec and turbo spec so i can help you better next time. Good Luck! |
| ID: 183 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hot or cold??? Question: i have an 89 gt turbo with a hot problem!!sometimes the temp gauge shoots right up on idle without driving and the warning light comes on,and other times it wont untill it has been driven for a bit its not losing water could it be the rad?? please help. Answer: It could be a lot of things including a dodgy gauge! Easiest things to try are: 1) Bleeding the cooling system properly. 2) Flushing the radiator. 3) Ensure the rad fan works. 4) Ensure the thermostat is working. (Try hot water in a glass to see if it opens) If all these fail then get someone professional to check the gauge and sender and then....... Let me know how you get on. |
| ID: 184 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil everywhere Question: i noticed the engine temp go over the normal position , when i stoped the car and poped the bonnet , everything had been sprayed with oil , it looks like where ever the leak is , its comming from the area of the dip stick , also ther was no water in the car.what does this sound like , and could you tell me if you know of any good mechanics in the west london area, around heathrow Answer: It sounds to me like the head gasket may have blown. Get it checked out before driving it again as you can do more damage. There are a few people you could ask but the nearest to you is probably young Rachel Head, the club head area rep. If she can't help you out then try one of the tuners like GDI and BB tuning but they are both outside the M25 and not so close. |
| ID: 185 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Uprated Fuel Pump Question: Hello Whizzer!. Ive seen a lot of cars peak power stopped around the 20psi mark due to 'the old fuel pump not having enough pressure to overcome the boost pressure'. Firstly, is that the reason. What flow rate and pressure does a standard (new) pump work at?. If the pressure fed GTT fuel regulator is ok could a higher flow/pressure pump from something like an RS turbo work,(Gotta be something other than the front seats in one thats useful). They both look cylindrical and I expect some bracketry will need to be made to physically fit it, which wont be the hardest thing ive done. I just wondered on the theory of the pressure rates. Answer: The GT Turbo needs about 4-5 psi fuel pressure above the air (or boost) pressure to prevent the fuel being blown back out of the carb. The standard pump is rated at 2.5 bar (approx 37 psi flowing between 67 and 137 litres of fuel per hour) but that doesn't take into account the losses from the filter, pipelines and regulator. This brings the effective pressure down to about 1.7 bar (approx 25 psi) so this means that at 20 psi boost the pump can't keep up! I know that there are a lot of standard fit fuel pumps out there on other vehicles that may well do the job especially fitted to turbo cars of greater displacement like the (Spits!) RS turbo. The other option is to go for an uprated pump from one of the tuners. I know that BB tunings pump is rated at 3.5 bar and flows between 130 and 180 litres per hour, so this sort of pump should do for your every need! There are uprated regulators out there but i have never fitted one to a GT Turbo before so can't vouch for them! |
| ID: 186 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wrong subframes? Question: hi im a brand new member this week and this is my first post! i only had my gtt about 3 months i wanted to smarten up the interior so i bought some corbeau forza sport bucket seats from demon tweeks, and they recommended the cobra universal sub frames, so thinking they knew best took thier advice and quess what, they dont even nearly fit, ive moddified the frames as much as i can but still cant make them fit properly i can only get three bolts in the floor and thier really high it feels like im drivivg a bus!! so what i need to know is what frames wil definatley fit or will i need to get new brackets made for the cobra frames????? thanx Anthony Priest ,Bolton Answer: The easiest thing to do is get some frames made up by your local welder as most companies don't do subframes for the GT Turbo anymore and a lot of them never fitted properly anyway!! Take in a drawing of what you want/need and i'm sure the could help you out. |
| ID: 187 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wrong jets????? Question: hi Anthony priest again here sorry to be a pest!! ive got a problem with the fueling system i think i turned up my boost the other day by winding the actuator arm and since then when i boot the car for a good 30,40 seconds or more the car starts jerking and backing off quiet aggresivly like its running out of fuel or something ive not turned the boost up much it just goes into the red on the gauge oh and it gets really bad when the cars low on fuel!! Answer: Young Anthony, you will never be a pest asking questions about the beloved 5 GT Turbo! It sounds like either a dodgy fuel pump or dirty filter (more common) but it could be something else like the overboost switch cutting the ignition. Unless you know EXACTLY when the fuel filter was last changed I would start there. Let me know if you need more advice, that's what I am here for! |
| ID: 188 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Batterys Question: what Battrey do you recomend and where can i get it from Answer: Go for a standard size, but heavy duty battery available from any good motor factor. They cost a few pounds more but are worth every penny! |
| ID: 189 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water pump Question: is there any advice you can give me about changing the water pump Answer: Get a replacement pump, take the old one off, split it and rebuild before trying to refit it to the car as it is much easier. Always use a new gasket and new hose clips if yours look even slightly worn. Apart from that, it is a simple enough job. |
| ID: 190 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Knocking sound? Question: At low speeds, if I gently blip the accelerator whilst in gear, I can hear a knocking sound from the offside wheel area. I only had the driveshaft replaced a couple of months ago & I noticed the knocking about a month after its replacement. Could this perhaps be connected with the brakes? Answer: Check out the driveshaft, wheel bearing and balljoints. If the driveshaft is the problem (and you still have the receipt) then the supplier will have to replace it for free. |
| ID: 191 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Nitrous Injection Question: Hi Wiz, long time no speak. Anyway I`ll cut to the chase.... I been looking into the possibility of Nitrous Injection systems as opposed to 'normal tuning' methods such as hybrids and the like. Have you heard of any one running such a system and if so, whats it like? The usual things such as reliabilty have entered my head, but as the knower of everything, what do you reckon? What, if any, upgrades do you think would help? (I`ve already got an uprated clutch, copper rad, strapped intercooler plus an air filter and side exit exhaust..... P.s. All installation would be done by the pro`s, so a botched job it wouldn`t be. Thanks a lot, Ian 'soon to be going faster' Shilvock Answer: Hello Ian, where you been hiding? Didn't Ian at Europarts mess with Nitrous at one point? It may be worth giving him a call. In the mean time.... I would recommend a fully balanced (and maybe lightened) bottom end and not going overboard with the increases. It should cope with and extra 50 bhp as long as everything else is sorted and the fuelling is spot on (uprated pump?). More may be possible but you may be left holding a molten bunch of metal. The choice, as they say, is yours! |
| ID: 192 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: backfire/misfire? Question: dear wizard on hard acceleration in 3rd to 5th gear the car really judders badley the revs dropping right down then back up, take a look in mirrors and all i can see is black smoke! the carb. has been uverhauled ive changed all the ignition (plugs leads etc) and as far as i know the car boost/turbo are standard? it only happens at high rpm. any ideas i would be very greatful as im frightened of it blowing up! alex Answer: Sounds to me like it could be an overboost switch problem. Try removing the wires from the switch (located in the turbo to intercooler boost hose) and see if that cures the problem. |
| ID: 193 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Annoying leak ! Question: Hello there ! I have a full Scorpion exhaust fitted on my 86 beast which was all very nice until it started leaking from the down pipe to system flexible joint, the one with the springs either side. I have put new springs and everything associated to ensure there is enough tension on the (clean) joint. Could this be caused by worn engine mountings (to much movment etc.) ? Have you any magical cures or advice on this annoying problem ? Thanks Russ. Answer: It could well be a worn mount or possibly due to vibration. Do you have the bracket that runs to the exhaust from the engine? If not, replace this and see if that cures the problem. Just let me know if you need more help and I will have a dig through the spell book to see what else is in there! |
| ID: 194 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure NOT! Question: Any idea y my oil pressure reads '0' is the switch buggered? Answer: If it doesn't move at all then there is a good chance the wiring has either come off or broken but if the wiring is sound then try the sender as they are common problems. |
| ID: 195 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: more bhp Question: I have got a small problem one of my mates has got an escort rs turbo shed but its really quick faster than my 5 at the moment. Its got a genuine 160 bhp @ the wheels my car has a few mods like a scorpion system,cone filter,adjustable boost 12psi,large carb jet and strapped and flowed intercooler and also a ported and polished head which is ready to fit. My basic query is what mod would you recomend to wipe his rs, ive got just under a grand to spend and it is a well serviced 70,000 mls car in good working order. cheers Keith Simpson Answer: Get that head fitted along with an uprated gasket, and then you have to decide if you want to go for a hybrid turbo or not! You could just go for a hike in boost pressure but it will reduce the life of the standard turbo consederably. A ""Group A"" carb conversion would help your top end power and if you do up the boost more then an uprated fuel pump would be a good idea. After that then the world is your oyster! (if you can afford it!) O.K? |
| ID: 196 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pumps Question: Dear Mr. Wizard, do you recomended using an uprated oil pump?? i've been using one for about 6 months now and all it seems to do is break the seal between the sump and the engine, i've tried everything except change the pump back to my old one, so should i stick with the uprated one or should i go back to my old pump?? Or is there another way of stopping the oil leaking all the time? Cheers Stu PS this message will self-destruct in 5 seconds!!!!! Answer: Did you fit the pump for a particular reason or was it just because it was ""Uprated""? If you don't really need it then try swopping it back! I use a good quality instant gasket and genuine Renault end seals as they seem to fit better than cheaper alternatives. Good luck my young Welsh friend! |
| ID: 197 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: air filter!?!? Question: what would be the best option for my five an induction kit or replacement filter ive heard so much and am a bit in the dark??? Answer: A standard replacement filter will not really improve power unless the one before was very restricted. Induction kits give better power as long as you have a heat shield fitted to keep all that nasty hot air away from them! Possible down side is that Induction kits are a lot louder (I love the sound!) If you route a cold air pipe from the bumper etc it will always be better and produce more power due to the denser cold air. |
| ID: 198 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost pressure from where? Question: dear turbo wizard! let me ask you as one of the seldom wise man... where should i take the boost pressure for the gauge from? inlet,turbo,...? can you tell me the advantages of each variation? thanks a lot regards michael Answer: You can take the boost reading from 3 main places. 1) Directly from turbo via a drilled and threaded hole in the compressor cover outlet. Gives actual turbo output pressure. 2) Above/before the carb. Gives reading less losses from intercooler etc. 3) Under the carb. Gives pressure that the engine actually see's. This is my favourite as it gives you -ve pressures as well that can assist with fault finding/engine condition. Hey here's an idea for you...... Buy 3 gauges and plumb one into each place to measure losses throughout the system. Then you know what parts you have to improve!!!!!! |
| ID: 199 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel pump Question: Dear Turbo Wizard, I hear alot of talk about uprated fuel pumps, could you tell me how much more pressure the uprated pump has got than the standard pump? Is the standard pump 2.5 bar pressure? I havent had my reno 5 for long and I have been told I am running 14PSI at about 150b.h.p, I am thinking of having a group 'A' carb fitted in the near future. Would a uprated fuel pump help in any way with the pressure I am running at the moment, also could you tell me how to find out what turbo I have got on, because if I start lifting my PSI level I want to make sure that I am not putting to much through my turbo, Please help, Thanks, Keith Answer: Uprated pumps are usually around the 3.5 bar pressure area. It will only help you out at your boost if the old pump is weak but it will be needed if you up the boost more. The one way to identify the turbo is the serial number on the plate fitted to the centre portion of the turbo (cartridge) Although you may be able to match it to another turbo by the A/R (Air Ratio) number stamped or moulded into the turbine and compressor housings. |
| ID: 200 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure Gauge Question: ""Hello"" My oil pressure gauge works if the car gets a jolt, normally it does not read. Could there be a fault in the dash gauge/wiring or is it most likely to be the at the oil pressure tapping point, if so where is the tapping point as I can't find it anywhere?. Thanx Adam. Answer: The tapping point is at the front of the engine at the bottom. There is a banjo bolt coming out the block with a metal pipe attached that goes to the rubber pipe that fits into the top of the turbo. It is easier to see from underneath and is above the oil level sensor fitted to the sump. It is about 1-2 inches in diameter with two spade connectors on it. I hope this helps. |
| ID: 201 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: HEAD GASKETS Question: COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME THE MOST COMMON CAUSE OF HEAD GASKET FAILURE? MY CAR IS OK, BUT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE BIGGEST CULPRIT! Answer: There are many possible causes...... Water loss causing overheating of the head. Too much boost pressure. Not enough fuel/weak mixture. Incorrect ignition settings. Take your pick!! :-) |
| ID: 202 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running in the engine Question: Ive just rebuilt my engine with new pistons/liners, and had my cylinder head reconditioned to some degree (new valve seals, valves ground etc), question is, how long should I drive the car before starting to give it a bit of the old turbo ? and after how long should I go before re-tourquing the cylinder head ? Also - since ive put my engine together, theres a sensor in the base of the carb, but I can't work out what connects onto this sensor, i dont appear to have any loose wires in the engine bay to go back on (hope they havn't been wrenched off)... cheers. Answer: I will start with the easy question, the sensor at the base of the carb is one for the anti-perc fan. It is ""T'ed"" off of the wires that run to the sensor on the turbo heat shield. As for running in, you should try to do at least 500 miles before using any boost and then start to use it little at a time. If you have adjustable boost, set it to minimum and leave it there for as long as you can stand! It takes tens of thousands of miles to get full seal with some kinds of rings and others seem to be fine in a couple of thousand. As for the head, retorque it (when fully cold) after you have run the engine up to full temperature for the first time. (20 mins?) |
| ID: 203 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: on the limit? Question: hi i have a 90g phase 2 car which is in perfect mechanical order and only covered 79k, it has a alloy intercooler,group 1 dump valve,intake kit,side exit exhaust, i have the bleed valve wound out to the max it will go, the car is boosting at 16psi and goes well. i know the turbo is at limits in terms of safe boost but bearing in mind the car only covers 600 miles per year can i wind it up some more?? if i can how do i do it bearing in mind the bleed valve is wound out fully?? thanks peter pbmwm3@aol.com Answer: I take it you have some form of restrictor in your bleed valve plumbing and i expect it is this that is limiting the max boost. If you are not sure where or how this restictor is fitted, take it to a tuner to get it done properly. A standard turbo can do about 20 psi but i cannot promise it will survive 600 miles, but i know of some that seem to do it forever! |
| ID: 204 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: is there much point? Question: Is it worth changing the elbow and x over pipe on my car (standard apart from gt tuning induction kit) as well as putting a stainless steel exhaust system on the car cause I have just been told it will only look and sound better and may make the oil seals leak cause the back pressure will be less? Its really just an answer to the elbow and cross over pipe cause i do want the better looking tail pipe!!! ( : LOL : ) Jamesy Answer: Changing the elbow and cross pipe will only show real benifits when you are pushing big power. There are many exhausts that are full stainless and a multitude of tailpipes are available that run from the standard downpipe back! In short answer to your question..... NO! |
| ID: 205 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Update on Sticky brakes Question: Hi Wizard, The problem was traced to a faulty master cylinder, although I had the flexible hoses replaced (as you suggested) as a precaution. All is well now :) Thanks Alex Answer: My pleasure! |
| ID: 206 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear Shocks Question: HI wizard, I have gone through a few pairs of rear shocks owing to the car being lowerered. I was wondering if I could fit ones off a clio 16v as i know the shock itself is slightly shorter and will better fit the rear suspension of a lowered five. Any ideas ?? i am fed up of my shocks going Cheers Ben Answer: You are correct my young friend, the clio shocks are shorter and more suitable for a lowered 5. |
| ID: 207 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel not getting to carb Question: Dear wise and wonderful wiz, I have benefited from your advice in the past, I therefore have faith in the extent of your 'wizdom'! Last week I started my 5 from cold. It started but quickly stopped It would not start again depite my best efforts, I did the usual checks plug, leads, distributor etc. - all ok. I opened up carb to see if fuel was getting through - no fuel seemed to be reaching the carb? I poured some petrol in and my baby came alive momentarily! I assumed the pump had gone but when I checked it it sounded as though it was trying to pump the fuel - Oh what could the matter be your omipowerful wiseness? Answer: Well my complimentary young chappie, My first check would have to involve taking the pipe off the carb and holding it over a container to collect anything that came out. If there IS fuel coming out this pipe, check the float needle in the carb itself, if there is NO fuel coming out then try the fuel filter and the gauze filter.(fitted to later type pumps) After this it could be a pipe that is kinked or a perished fuel pipe that is blocked. As a last resort it could be the that fuel regulator has failed. Hope this advice is as good as the last time. Keep up the good work Turbonutter! Long live the 5GT |
| ID: 208 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Replacing interior Question: Hi T.W, I've heard a rumour and was wondering if you could tell me whether it is true or not. Is it possible to fit renault clio interior (seats and door cards) staight into my gtturbo? Regards Chris Cook Answer: I have never tried or heard of anyone trying this. So I am unable to answer that question. Why don't you try it and let me know!!!!!!! |
| ID: 209 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: INTERCOOLERS Question: MR TURBO WIZARD , PLEASE COULD YOU ADVISE ME WHETHER FITTING A ALLOY INTERCOOLER OR A DOUBLE CORED INTERCOOLER TO MY CAR WOULD HAVE ANY BENEFIT?(PRESENTLY STRAPPED & FLOWED) I AM RUNNING 16 PSI ON A HYBRID TURBO. Answer: Fitting an all alloy intercooler will prevent the possiblity of the plastic end tanks blowing off and may be slightly more efficient than a standard one. It will not do you any harm!!! |
| ID: 210 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: MORE BOOST I THINK! Question: MR TURBO WIZARD CURRENTLY I HAVE A FULL 360 THURST BEARING HYBRID ON MY CAR ABOUT 200 MILES OLD A SINGLE PORT ACTUATOR,VALEO VOLVO 480 TURBO CLUTCH 2 1/4 INCH MONGOOSE INC ELBOW, 3 1/2 TAIL,GREEN STUFF INDUCTION, HVHP FUEL PUMP,NEW FILTER, BIGGER CARB JETS AND RECENT OVERHAUL AND LOTS OF OTHER NEW PARTS COPPER RAD, BRAKES, SILCONE BOOST,WATER HOSES ETC ETC .. MY CAR RUNS 12 PSI STANDARD AND ELECTRONIC IN CAR BOOST UPTO 16PSI . I WANT TO UP THE BOOST A BIT ABOUT 18PSI, BUT AM CONCERNED TO WHETHER THIS WILL HAVE A KNOCK ON EFFECT I.E HEADGASKET!! WOULD I NEED ENGINE WORK BEFORE I COULD RUN THIS BOOST RELIABLEY? SORRY ITS A BIT LONG WINDED:-) Answer: I know people that have run 21 psi for a considerable time with no internal engine mods. This is not a difinitive boost level but an experience I have had. 18 psi ""Should"" be fine as long as the engine is in perfect working order. You could always get a ""Leak down test"" to see how good your piston rings etc are before upping your limit. |
| ID: 211 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Momo Arrows for a R5?? Question: Are a set of Momo Arrows the right offset to go onto a R5? Answer: You have to get 35mm offset wheels. Ask the supplier to tell you what offset or ET these wheels have. |