| ID: 152 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: GT5 Kit Question: So far I've had no response to my e-mails from carisma about their new bodykit. Do you have any idea when its going to be released and for how much as I am desperate to get it. Answer: I have been led to believe the kit is £1300 and is available now, but try ringing Carisma direct. They have a new email address too: carismaautomotive@aol.com I have forwarded your request to them, so hopefully you'll get a response either way! Good luck. |
| ID: 153 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: intercooler to turbo hose Question: after recently fitting a diaphram dump valve, i have noticed a split in the intercoler to turbo hose. could this have been caused by the d/v? bearing in mind this is the original hose (10 yrs old). A. is the car safe to drive ? B.would fitting samco silcone hoses be advantageous.C.i want to turn the boost up, which is the easiest way the car is a 'H'plate with fsh @80k i beleive its on its original turbo would this be asking for trouble. i use my 5gtt as a second car (weekends only). Answer: The hose will have split due to age. Samco hoses are always a good idea as standard hosses are all old and prone to splitting! DO NOT drive the car with a split hose as it can cause overboosting of the turbo and lets in dirt as well. You can turn up the boost by winding the actuator arm in to increase the resistance on the spring or fit a bleed valve. A small increase should be ok even on a standard turbo. (e.g 14psi) |
| ID: 154 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PERIODIC LAG Question: SINCE MENDING A TEAR IN MY TURBO TO INTERCOOLER HOSE MY PERFORMANCE HAS INCREASED BRILLIANTLY THE TURBO GUAGE NOW GOES RIGHT TO THE END ( BEFORE 2 NOTCHES BEFORE THE SMALLER SPACED LINES) , HOWEVER SOMETIMES WHEN I ACCLERATE HARD I GET WHAT I CAN ONLY ASSUME LOTS OF TURBO LAG, THIS DOESN'T ALWAYS HAPPEN . AS FAR AS I AM AWARE THE CAR IS STANDARD APART FROM A D/VALVE & K&N FILTER, ALSO THERE IS NO SMOKE COMING FROM EXHAUST WHEN ACCLERATING HARD AN BACKING OFF. COULD YOU EXPLAIN WHAT THE PROBLEM MAYBE. Answer: Sounds to me as if the actuator may be a bit tired and boost is leaking out when you feel the lag. Could be wrong though!! |
| ID: 155 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Front Fogs and Horn not operating! Question: Oh wise one, My front fogs and horn are on the blink, I've just replaced the horn and compressor, and still no joy. Could you tell me if they run off the same circut or relay some where that is quite sly ????? Your help is much needed!! Wilkie. Answer: This may sound like teaching you to suck eggs but have you checked the fuse????? If the fuse is ok then try the electrical connections as water may have got in and caused a bit of corrosion. |
| ID: 156 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: backfire Question: wiz, If I floor my car at around 2500 - 3000rpm I get a backfire through the exhaust. If I am more progressive with the throttle though, past this point I can accelerate fully with no problems. I am running 20psi, my carb has been modified with a 27.5mm choke, 140 main and 100 air corrector jets and other mods are Magnex, MD28 hybrid, alloy intercooler, racing plugs, splitfire leads, K&N and lots of other bits. The misfire happened after I had the carb rebuilt but the tuner (one of the popular 5 tuners) doesnt think the carb is the problem but that perhaps my ECU or coil is under more load now. How can I test this and do you think I need an uprated fuel pump? Thanks yet again wizard, whoever you are! Stan. Answer: Definetely a carb problem !! The get sizes are wrong for the size choke that you have, you will require a 150 main jet and a 70 air corrector jet for it to work. To prove that i'm right remove the black plastic carb top and you'll see that the inside of the carb will be coated in a black sooty residue due to lack of fuel. ( should be clean and shiny ) Also you will require a high pressure fuel pump. |
| ID: 157 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stripping and Replacing standard Wheel Arches And Side Skirts. Question: Wizard, I hope you can advise me on stripping the wheel arches and side skirts from the car.(As I'm going to replace them) And how difficult is it to refit them on your own??? Your advice will be much appreciated. Wilkie. Answer: The arches are held on with some nuts and some bolts in a couple of sizes (eg 10mm) and are a straight undo job. The side skirts are held on with rivets and some weird clips (that are available from renault at a very reasonable price if they have seen better days!) which fit onto pegs that are part of the shell of the car. Removing them is easy but replacement may require an assisstant. Good Luck! |
| ID: 158 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Is it the head gasket? Question: Hi Wiz, hows the magic wond?. I wondered if you could help me wiz. The other day I had my manifold gasket fixed, when I picked it up the mechanic told me that the car is not idling properly, it's lumpy, the power is there in spurts and stalls and generely isnt running well. This was happening before the manifold gasket change but I figured it was down to the air coming out of the manifold. Anyways the mechanic reckons that the head gasket(oh the joy of renault 5T's)is shagged because he said he changed the plugs as they were wet and rusty and because they were recently fitted that it would indicate a leak from the head gasket?. Right the thing is there is no white smoke, only on start up when cold but what car dont right?. It does however drink vast amounts of water, fill up one day gone the next and I have checked for leaks and can find none. The resovoir stinks of petrol as does the whole engine bay. The last thing I would like to say is there is no creamy white residue around the oil cap-spooky!. Is this mechanic talking out of his shpincter or do I really need to fork out £300 plus to sort it?. Answer: My wand is waving well thanks and it seems that you may need it. Certainly sounds to me that the head gasket has gone between the water jacket and a cylinder. There is a remote chance that it may be something more serious so get it looked at by a pro. |
| ID: 159 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: performance gain's Question: i am contemplating changing my exhaust, presently a standard system as far as i'm aware, could you advise me as to which the best system for performance gain's would be, keeping noise level's to pretty much as they are know (quiet) Answer: Have you been along to any of the recent meetings? This is the best way to compare noise and have a chat to some of the owners to see what their experiences have been. The one to go for from a noise point of view is the Magnex - it is probably the quietest system available whilst still offering some performance gain. |
| ID: 160 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Phase 1 car Question: I have a '86 'c' reg car, but I think it has been fitted with a Phase 2 engine but the phase 1 turbo -air cooled has been kept. Will this cause any problems and the head has a slight blowing on it, it will be replaced, but I don;t know whether to replace this turbo (turbo technics) with a stander Phase 2 - i have got one in a box!!! Also how can I reset my boost - or should I take it to ....... in the N.Wales or Cheshire or Shropshire????? Thanx Answer: The phase 1 & 2 engines are almost identicle except for the different cooling system pipework. It should cause no real problems keeping the air cooled turbo but you need to get the head sorted asap, making sure it is perfectly flat before refitting to ensure a good seal on the new head gasket. Boost can be adjusted by adjusting the amount of thread showing on the actuator arm, shortening it will increase preload and therefore boost. On the other hand, just fit an in car boost kit from one of the tuners, discount is available through the club discount scheme with some of them. |
| ID: 161 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoke on tickover Question: Hi there. I have a similar problem to Johnathan (15.5.2000) in that for a few days recently I had a huge amount of grey smoke when I hit traffic/wait at traffic lights. I have no probs whatsoever with overheating (barely moves above zero with copper rad/low temp rad fan switch) & no noticeable coolant loss so I don't think it's the head gasket. I had a new/recon standard turbo fitted less than 12 months ago but as there was also a smell of burning I guessed that this could be the cause of the problem. Problem is that the smoking cleared itself up after a couple of days, although I can now hear a verly slightly different turbo noise if I really boot it. Aside from that, the car runs like a dream. Is the turbo on the way out or am I being paranoid?! Many thanks for your help. Answer: There are a few causes of smoke at tickover. for example: 1) Worn turbo seals. 2) Worn valve guides. 3) Blocked breather system. I think the third one might be your problem, especially as the smoke goes away. Try cleaning out the breather pipes and oil seperator and see if the problem persists. Also check that the breather pipe that runs to the turbo inlet elbow is still connected as this may be the cause of the turbo note change and the smoke stopping. |
| ID: 162 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: temperamental clutch Question: dear turbo wizard i replaced my clutch because it was breaking cables and slipping.when starting from cold the gearchange is fine and the biting point is half way up the pedal travel but after about a dozen gear changes the pedal becomes spongy and the biting point is at the floor it becomes worse if u get stuck in traffic and the car heats up,first gear becomes sticky and it crunches going into reverse.please help.i,ve tryed new gear oil,shorter cable,pedal from other car to no avail its really startin 2 do me ead in' Answer: It sounds to me like the box has the wrong oil in it. Try a heat shield between the turbo and box and thicker gear oil and see how that goes. |
| ID: 163 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Getting High Question: Wizard you must help me!! Why is it that everytime i stop at a junction or whatever, the inside of my car is engulfed in petrol fumes?? i have already checked the following and were found to be mint. Petrol tank, Fuel pump, Fuel filter, Fuel Lines, Carb, Valves on back of inlet manifold, all pipes under the bonnet for splits etc... this is starting to really piss me off now. Answer: When you say you have checked the fuel tank, did you look at the black circular seal that is under the rear seat that covers the fuel sender and tank connections? There could be a leak/hole in one of the pipes on top or the sender could be loose/leaking. |
| ID: 164 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost pressure switch Question: Is correct that a modified boost pressure switch is required to run more than 10psi if so where can i get one how much will it cost or can the existing one be adapted. Answer: Hello Keith, Allow me to explain.... :-) The peak boost pressure your turbo can produce is regulated by a device called an actuator. This is essentially a spring, and when the boost pressure reaches a certain amount it opens the wastegate, allowing excess exhaust gases to bypass the turbo - so setting a ""ceiling"". In order to raise that ceiling you can do one of two things: 1. Fit an uprated actuator 2. Adjust your actuator so it opens the wastegate later 3. Fit a bleed-valve or in-car adjustable boost kit available from most tuners. This works by ""bleeding"" off some of the pressure that would normally go to the actuator, so the wastegate stays shut for longer. When you talk about a boost pressure switch. you might be thinking of one other important device: the GT Turbo is equipped with a sensor which will cut the ignition if the boost reaches a certain level. This device can either be disconnected (not recommended) or adjusted to raise the ceiling at which it operates. When increasing the boost level, be sure to fit a larger carburettor main jet, and strap and flow the intercooler. Have a look through some other questions I answered recently which go into a bit more detail. Also do remember that you must ensure that your cooling system is functioning correctly before attempting to increase the boost, and that the clutch will wear significantly faster with the increase in power. If you would like me to go into more detail then don't hesitate to post a new question. Good luck! |
| ID: 165 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rear quarter windows Question: Hello again, I want to replace the rubber seal on my rear quarter windows (not the three little blocks). How much of a pain in the ass is it to do? Will I need to remove any of the interior trim? Thanks again. Answer: You should be able to just remove the window and replace the seal without too much difficulty. |
| ID: 166 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: heater controls relocation Question: As i am new to styling my R5 i thought it would be a good idea to relocate my stereo. This was fine until i tried to fit my heater controls in the old stereo position, it seems that i haven't got enough heater control cable and wires, plus the cables keep unclipping from the control box. do i need new cables and to extend the wires? i would like this to work as i can't read the stereo display in its original position. thanx turbo wiz Answer: You need two of the longer cables, available from your local breaker and you may need to relocate one of the securing points on the heater itself. If you are still having problems let me know and I will get my elves on to it. |
| ID: 167 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure Gauge Question: Wiz, Im having problems with the oil pressure gauge it just keeps bouncing up and down once the cars started but alright when not keep up the good work saves us pounds.Thanx Add Answer: When the car is not running the oil pressure gauge becomes an oil level gauge. When running it returns to pressure and the jumping is quite commom and often due to a dodgy sender, but can be a dodgy gauge. |
| ID: 168 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Miss Fire Question: Wiz, The problem is when i first start the car it seems to miss fire like bloody hell but once warmed up its sound,also when de throttling the exhaust pops and bangs its a scorpian 4"" any advice would be appreciated.Thanx Add Answer: What spark plugs are you using? It could be that they are a bit oiled up on startup and it runs better when they are hot and have burned off the oil deposits. The popping and banging could be an air leak in the system or it could be that you have very little backpressure in your system to absorb the noises. |
| ID: 169 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Annoying electrical faults!! Question: Hi TW. I've had a problem with my central locking not working, I turn the key in the drivers door and the passenger door lock moves but does'nt lock it properly, and the boot lock does'nt move at all, my rear wiper and washer don't work and front fog light wont work. I've checked fuses, connections and bulbs, can you tell me what I should be looking for to diognose the problems as renault garages are too expensive and I'm sure I could fix the problems if only I could find out what was causing them. Thanks for your time TW. Chris Cook. Answer: To start with, the boot lock is not on the central locking system, just the doors. Try lubricating the passenger door lock and mechanism as it may just be sticking (a common problem) When you say you have checked connections for the electrical problems, did you check them ALL or just at the offending componants? There are many connections in the system and renault wiring has never been the best or most reliable. You could also try the relays as these are quite common to go as well. I hope you have some good luck and get back to me if you need more help. |
| ID: 170 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Type of seats Question: Wiz, Do you know if any other car seats and subs fit in the 5 e.g Clio 16v or 19 16v cos mine are buggered, or would it be easier to have re-trim and new bolsters.Thanx Add Answer: There are many seats that fit into the 5 but none that i can think of that fit directly with the subframes. You could always try one of the Renault 5 breakers like Rachel Head for a replacement set of seats. |
| ID: 171 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Sticky brakes ? Question: Hi Wizard, Hope you can help on this one as it's starting to get expensive. My drivers side front wheel brakes are binding except not all the time but intermitently. When leaving in the morning or after the car has been standing for a few hours there is plently of travel in the brake pedal but after a couple of miles or so the travel starts to gradually get shorter until there is virtually no travel. The brakes can get so bad that i can stop on a hill without pressing the pedal or using the handbrake. The only thing that will stop them binding is sharply jumping on the brake pedal - the travel returns and the brakes don't bind again (for a while at least). I have replaced the calliper, the glide bolts so far the only other thing is taht the disc is warped (it's had new discs just before the problem started) but I am loathed to replace the discs in case they aren't causing the problem and risk warping new discs. Any ideas would be a big help as you can imagine this isn't doing the fuel economy or running temp' of the car any good. Thanks in anticipation... Answer: It sounds like the flexible brake hose has broken down inside. This is the hose located between the caliper and the metal brake pipe. Suggest you check this and let me know how you get on. |
| ID: 172 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Struggling to get gears!!! Question: Dear Mr Wizard, your advice is needed, I'm having problems selecting gears, i've changed the cable, but i have to put 3 washers on the end of the cable to get gears!! what needs changing? clutch or gearbox? or something else. Cheers Stu. Answer: There are two types of pedal and different manufacturers seem to do different lengths of cables. It could be the clutch itself but it would probably slip as well especially under upped boost (I know you welsh love boost!) It could be gearbox wear or bad oil but that would get worse as the box heated up. Sounds to me like a cable mismatch if it is sorted with washers, you could try making a permenant spacer or remove the cable and compare it to one from a different manufacurer until you find the correct length. Sorry I couldn't give you a difinitive answer but my Elves have been busy and have not had time to pop round to your car and check it out! |
| ID: 173 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Things get oh so slow Question: Hi Turbo Wiz When all the eletrics are turned on, ie heater, rear wiper, lights etc they start to run slow. You can hear the heater motor slow down and the rear wipe nearly stops. If only a few switches etc are on then everything is fine. The alternator light doesn't come on. Any ideas.. Thanks Answer: It is your alternator struggling to keep up, if you have a good battery you will be ok but if it is a bit dodgy you may run into more problems. There are two real solutions, one is to switch off the unneccessary electrics and the other is to buy a more powerfull alternator! |
| ID: 174 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dump Valves, which type? Question: I'm thinking of fitting a dump valve to my GTT to stop the wastegate chatter, which I've been told is not good for the turbo. I'm running standard boost (7psi) but have been thinking about upping it to 10psi. flicking through various magazines I've seen adverts for many differents types of dump valve. Fast road, Grp. A, Closed loop, Filtered etc... What's the difference between one type and another, and which is the best for me? Do I need to spend £280 for a top model, or will a £40 model be just as good for low boost applications? Answer: Starting from the end, a cheap dump valve will do for low boost but if you up it later on then it may not be man enough! The different types are as follows: 1) Normal - Group ""N"" - Fastroad, standard dump valve which may be quiet or load depending on style and manufacturer. 2) Group ""A"" - Race, these are better for higher boost applications as they are usually fitted with a better diaphram, heavier spring and larger air holes to get rid of the greater volumes of air. 3) Closed loop, these are fitted with a pipe to recirculate the air back into the system but the design used by many actually slows the air to the turbo by causing turbulance as they shoot into the oncoming air if fitted to the breather pipe hole instead of aiming into the turbo. 4) Filtered, these are considered to be better all round as they filter the air which is sucked in through the dump valve at idle but most people dont live in a dusty environment so are they neccessary for you? I hope this has opened your eyes to the many possiblities but in the end all I can say is............. Its YOUR decision! |
| ID: 175 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Crazy Boost! Question: Ive got a rather strange problem with my GT-Turbo. At full throttle the Turbo spins as though it's running about 1000 PSi but the revs are very slow to pick up resulting in a car that dosn't accelerate well. The gauge spins itself into the red then there is a loud pchooo noise (like a piston dump valve)and the car rocks forward quite violently and the turbo stops spinning. At half throttle the boost still out accelerates the revs but im giving the revs time to catch up. Ive replaced the clutch as that was my first thought but the matter has only improved marginally. Its difficult to get the car to run at any sort of high speed. I would appreciate any insight you may have. Thanks. Answer: It sounds like you have a carb or fuel starvation problem. To check for fuel starvation remove the black plastic carb top and look in the top of the carb. If theres evidence of a black sooty residue then the cars not getting enough fuel ! if so it's either that the carb is not calibrated correctly or that the fuel pump is not delivering enough pressure. Is your carb modified i.e. a so called group a version? |
| ID: 176 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bent steering column. Question: My Renault was broken into last week, although nothing has been stolen they have managed to bend my steering wheel and steering column. What is the best and cheapest way of fixing this? Thanks. Answer: Try one of the renault 5 breakers like Bruce Hockley or Rachel Head, they may have one or try your local scrapeyard. If not bite the bullet and go to Renault. |
| ID: 177 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: How much BHP??? Question: Turbo Wizard, How much BHP roughly can expect from the following spec on a G reg GTT having done 80K: - Hybrid turbo running 20psi Piper Cross cone filter Samco boost hoses Pace alloy intercooler Grp A dump valve Basic Gas flowed head & polished valves Competition head gasket & bolts GT Tuning exhaust with 4"" pipe The car has other stuff like racing spark plugs and silicon HT leads. I'm buying the Hybrid in the next couple of days but I have the other stuff. I don't know how much BHP shes pushing @ the moment. Thanks Chris Roberts Answer: Assuming everything is hunky dorey with the engine and carb jetting, then i would expect anything up to 175 bhp but it is likely to be less than this if you have any restrictions ie exhaust, carb. So in reality i would be happy with 160 bhp and vastly improved torque. |
| ID: 178 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hard to get into gear Question: Turbo wizard help me. I`m having problems getting my car into gear whilst driving, I have had a new clutch cable fitted, and spocket at the top of clutch pedal, but I still can`t get the gear. Is this the signs of knacked clutch or the gearbox. I had a new clutch fitted just over two years ago which was very costly (£500) and the clutch has just done over 14000 miles. I`ve took the car to my mechanincs and he said ""i`m not sure without looking into it, I`ll have to get the engine out"". Which i expect is going to be costly, so no i`m turning to you for some advice. If this does sound like clutch problems, where is the best place to get the car sorted for a good price, and what clutch should I get, cos I don`t want it go again. The car is only running a standard engine, with a dump valve, but the car is due to be tweaked up shortly after i have finished making it look and sound good. please help me turbo wizard thanks Daniel Answer: Again this problem arrises, please read the replies to the questions from Stuart Coates & Paul Flynn. Try one of the Renault tuners eg BB Tuning, Europarts, GDI for getting the clutch done if that turns out to be the problem. |
| ID: 179 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: What size wheels & tyres? Question: Turbo Wizard, I am thinking of fitting larger wheels early next year to replace the standard 13"" rims on 195/55/r13 rubber. I know that 7x15"" alloys on 195/45/15 tyres gives a similar rolling radius to the standard tyres. What about 16"" alloys instead? Is there a suitable tyre for this diameter to maintain a similar rolling radius to my standard tyres? I know that 17"" alloys require 205/40/17 rubber. Also, if I were to fit 15"" alloys with 195/45 tyres, how much adjustment of the rear torsion bar would be required & which lowering springs should I fit to achieve a decent ride height ? Answer: Starting with the wheels, 16's will go on with a 195/45/16 but may need some fettling of the arches etc. The rear torsion bar adjustment and springs are down to your own personal taste of how low you want to go and how big your local spped ramps are! I know that the AVO adjustable coilover setup is relitively expensive but it does allow you to go way down LOW for cruises etc and raise it back up for normal use. Even though the fronts are the only height adjustable bits it does affect the rear of the car as well so you need to find a happy medium for the rear. |
| ID: 180 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: will not start!!!! Question: the starter motor is turning the engine but it will not fire up? i have checked the carb and all the plugs and all seem fine and are recieving petrol so i am stuck for now to find out what the problem is ! could it be the computer module?cheers steve addy Answer: You say the plugs are fine, I am assuming you mean they are sparking. If so then it is possible there is a problem with the timing sensor (melted wires??) or the vacuum advance in the Ignition module has been known to go wrong also. Try a good module off of a friends car and see if the problem persists and the same with the timing sensor but that is harder to get to! |
| ID: 181 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel Pump Relays Question: Dear Turbo Wizard, I have two GTT's, one is an E reg (ph1/ph2 crossover) and the other is a G reg. The E reg has it's fuel pump relay located behind the the fuse box, kind of with the other relays. But I can't find it in the G reg car (it's not hidden up the back of the footwell area!) Whereabouts should I be looking for it? many thanks! -Sparkie Answer: I know the relay is located on the fuse box with the others on an F reg car, bottom right if memory serves me right. I can only suggest that it is the same on a G reg car. |