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ID: 122 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: harsh ride suspension? Question: as far as i'm aware the car has not be lowered or adjusted in any way but ride quality is poor crashing and rattling over the smallest of bumps, would fitting new shock's remedy this problem. bearing in mind i bought the car 8 days ago and it passed an mot then! Answer: One possible cause of this is that the springs on your car are the stamdard springs, but have been shortened by cutting off one or more coils to make the car sit lower. This is a cheap way of lowering the car but destroys the ride quality, which is preserved better by fitting a good set of genuine lowering springs. Worn shocks generally cause instability and pitching/rolling which is the opposite of what you describe. Worn shocks also impair braking performance because the car will ""lean forward"" under harsh braking. If you are running larger wheels with lower profile tyres the ride will also be adversely affected. More tyre in contact with the road should mean better grip but at the expense of ride quality. Suggest you get along to your local tuner or knowledgeable mechanics and get them to have a look for you, have the top mounts, springs and shocks examined and if anything is seriously amiss they should be able to help.

ID: 123 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: accelerator pump Question: Dear TW How critical is the adjustment on the accelerator pump and how do you get it right? Haynes talks about 1/2cm travel, but I have OD on wizzard dust and put in a group A carb with 135 main jet so is this still applicable? Thank you for any advice Russell T Answer: Are you having problems with the carb. ? The minimal main jet on the GRP. A version is usually 150 !! Stick to the standard travel ont the accelerator pump. If you have any problems contact one of the tuners it may also have the wrong air correction jet. Firstly contact whoever the carb. was purchased from.

ID: 124 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Bleeding Cooling System Question: Wizz, Not a cooling 'problem' but I would like to know the correct procedure for bleeding the cooling system. I have just fitted an alloy de-gas pot and header tank. I've topped it up and opened the bleed screws and water came out, so is that it? P.S. I dont have a thermostat in the top hose. Thanks. Stan. Answer: The correct procedure is to remove the bottom hose from the radiator, also the 11mm block drain form the engine block ( located by the timing chain cover ) Remove the heater pipes, not ffrom the heater but from the header tank and from the De-gas chamber. Then flush the system through with a hose pipe until you get clear running water from the outlets. When completed connect everything back up and fill up the system through the header tank, to prevent air locks undo the bleed screws one at a time and blow through the header tank. Once the new coolant has come through tighten the bleed screws and run engine until warm. whilst running undo one bleed screw again one at a time to finaly bleed out any trapped air, let the car cool down and check coolant level as guide you should use around 5 - 5.5 litres of coolant. NEVER run the car without a thermostat !!!

ID: 125 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Bleeding Cooling System Question: Wiz, What is the correct procedure for changing the coolant and bleeding the system? Stan. Answer: The correct procedure is to remove the bottom hose from the radiator, also the 11mm block drain form the engine block ( located by the timing chain cover ) Remove the heater pipes, not ffrom the heater but from the header tank and from the De-gas chamber. Then flush the system through with a hose pipe until you get clear running water from the outlets. When completed connect everything back up and fill up the system through the header tank, to prevent air locks undo the bleed screws one at a time and blow through the header tank. Once the new coolant has come through tighten the bleed screws and run engine until warm. whilst running undo one bleed screw again one at a time to finaly bleed out any trapped air, let the car cool down and check coolant level as guide you should use around 5 - 5.5 litres of coolant. NEVER run the car without a thermostat !!!

ID: 126 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Breather hoses from Carb Question: Hello Merlin. I recently cahnged my breather hoses from my carb to the actuator etc for 6mm silicon hosing (recommended by GT Tuning) but now the car runs around 16psi rather than 13psi as before... This is good in a way (more power) but it may also be a cause for concern, what would you suggest I look for cause would I be right in saying the intercooler is only good for 16psi (I cannot afford an ally one yet) and all the other excessive wear etc..(The old owner says it has been gasflowed but I cannot find a reciept for that and I have reciepts for everything else so for now I am presuming it is std). Is my car safe for the time being? Answer: Has the Carb. been rejetted if so no problem with the fuel side, as you say the intercooler is borderline ( pressure wise ) get yourself an intercooler strap from one of the tuners.

ID: 127 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: overcooling!! Question: Probably I should be grateful but my temperature gauge needle never goes higher up the gauge than 1/8th. I,ve just had a spanking new standard radiator which has made it slightly worse! The radiator cooling fan operates when the needle is at this position also. Is my engine overcooling as I dont think that there is a problem with the gauge or sender, Possably the thermostat. What do you think?? Cheers, Jim (Telford) Answer: Have the dials been removed ( i.e. fitment of coloured ones ) if so the needle could have been positioned wrong. If not check the gauge sender unit situated at the back of the waterpump ( could be faulty ) Also check the thermostat temp this is stamped on the end of the thermostat itself. min temp. 75 degrees C or Max temp. 83 degrees C recommended.

ID: 128 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Juddering when braking Question: This problem has gradually got worse. When applying medium pressure to the brake pedal the steering column vibrates violently and knocking noises are heard. Under hard braking the effect is not reproduced. The drivers side front brake is squeeking all the time and I can stop on hills without putting on the handbrake because the brake binds, but this only happens after 5 mins of driving when i've braked a couple of times. What is going on? The Discs were new last year and the problem was still there so I don't think the disks are warped! Is it Suspension Bushes? I don't have very much money so I can't afford to replace things that arn't the problem, But my fuel consumption is really bad as the engine has to try and drive a car along with a binding brake! I've currently resorted to not braking at all unless totally necessary. Answer: It seems to me that your binding calliper has damaged the new discs as well. I would get the calliper renewed or refurbished as soon as possible to prevent further damage. Then take the car to a decent garage or R5 tuner to get them to check the suspension bushes.

ID: 129 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: lost half boost Question: The boost gauge has dropped to half, when accelerating you can here the air escaping from somewhere, don't know where, and it's getting louder and the power has virtually gone. I fitted a boost gauge from a mates car, and it is reading 10 psi. The car is standard, but i am not sure if the boost has been played with. Can you help please...... Steve. Answer: If the car is running standard boost, a reading of 10psi is about accurate. This therefore would tend to suggest the loss is after the point where you have the gauge plumbed in. A boost leak can be tricky to find and can be found in a number of places - if you feel confident, take off all the pipes running between the turbo outlet and the carb intake and examine them closely. The slightest split could be responsible for your problem. Remember which order they go back in although it's relatively obvious, they will (within reason!) only go back one way round. Pay careful attention to the piping after your take off for the boost gauge. A couple of other things - if you have fitted a dump valve it may well not be closing properly so the boost could be leaking from there. A metal aerosol lid secured with a jubilee clip VERY tightly to replace the dump valve will allow you to test this theory out but should only be a (very!) temporary measure. Finally, are you certain that the leak isn't actually from the boost gauge itself? Also, if you have a ram-raid style inductin kit this will produce a noise that sounds not unlike a boost leak sometimes! Additionally, a bleed valve when fitted is designed to ""bleed off"" some of the pressure which would normally open the wastegate allowing it to stay closed for longer, thus raising the boost ceiling. This also makes a hissing sound. Check the pipes running to your actuator to see if there are any take off pipes for such a device or if a brass-style valve with a knob has been fitted. Hope this helps.

ID: 130 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: wheel bearing? Question: When conering at close to or on full lock at a reasonable speed a knocking can be heard and felt through steering. Particularly steering to right but also to left. This does not happen all the time. I take it is the wheel bearing but a friend says it could be the diff please help! Answer: The driveshafts ( CV joints ) and also check the bottom suspension balljoints are the things to check here, your local garage or tuner should be able to diagnose which for you.

ID: 131 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: SPEEDO Question: The speedo on my 1990 GT Turbo has a fault with the speedo. First of all it began to cut out at a certain speed, this speed was different every time I drove it. Now it has stopped altogether. What could be the fault? If it is the sensor in the gearbox, how easy is that to change? Answer: The gearbox sensor is awkward but not impossible to change. Before changing it check the connection on the joint under the bonnet around where the turbo is. Make sure you clean the area as best as possible to prevent dirt getting in the gearbox. You will need to get the car on axle stands or a ramp to gain access from underneath. You will need a 6mm (I think) allen bit and probably a small socket set ratchet with extensions to undo it.

ID: 132 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: loosing boost pressure Question: I had a drop in boost pressure with my standard turbo unit, so I fitted a new turbo - hybrid, and the problem is still the same. My turbo should be boosting at about 15psi though it will only boost to 10 and then drop out. I've tried everything I can think of (checking for leaks etc.) and had new hoses, intercooler, dump valve and bleed valve. I've also had everything professionally checked (petrol mix, all valves tested) still no joy!! I'm desperate - please help. (1991 model) Answer: A boost drop normally occurs when incorrectly fueled or simply there is a leak somewhere, Is the boost guage leaking ?, also check the ECU diaphragm or if not check the dump valve for a leak if you have one.

ID: 133 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Help needed getting subframes for corbeau targa rs Question: hi wiz, got some new seats the only problem is they come with unversal subframes which are poor to say the least, do you know anyone / where i can get some pukka subframes that actually fit the car. corbeau used to make them for the 5 but they don't anymore. Help i have £££ sitting in some seats and they cannot be put in my five at the moment :( Cheers wiz Ben Answer: What seats have you purchased ? I know that sparco offer reasonable subframes for the 5 Turbo but i'm not sure if they are compatible with your seats. Try Demon Tweeks.

ID: 134 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Flames Question: Recently in the magazines all the cruses have got pictures of cars with flames poping out of there exhausts(Even a Volvo). How is it done ? is it over fueling and can I do it to my car without killing it in the process ? Answer: Flames are achieved by overfueling when unburnt fuel ignites in the exhaust system. On the 5 turbo this can be achieved with the fitment of a revlimiter / full throttle gearshift kit, try BB Tuning for one of these.

ID: 135 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Gears sticking when hot Question: Dear wizard i have been having trouble selecting any gear especially 1st or 2nd when the engine gets hot on a long journey. But is fine in cold weather and the oil has been changed do you think it my need a new gearbox? cheers Steve Addy Answer: First thing is to check that the clutch is clearing correctly, this can be the cause of a worn or partially seized clutch or that the biting point is too low i.e. near the carpet . If its a relatively new clutch then i'm afraid it's the gearbox at fault.

ID: 136 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: SPEEDO ERATIC Question: My speedo first started to cut out at a particular speed. After a while it failed altogether. Now it does nothing at all. If the sensor is goosed then how easy is it to change in the gearbox. Answer: Check the connection on the wiring ( grey wire, black plug, joined around by the passenger side suspension turret in the engine bay ) Failing that remove the sensor from the gearbox and clean it, but 9 out 10 it's the speedo head itself.

ID: 137 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: too wide? Question: dear,wizard my motor has a problem. I have at present 7 x 15 inch TSW venoms and at full lock they rub on the inner arch and brake pipe hence MOT failure. I plan to change my tyers to a 45 profile so I can lower my car but do I need to replace my alloys to stop the rubbing? If so what do you recomend I do? HELP!!!! James Brisbourne Answer: If the wheel your using has the wrong offset ( Correct offset 35mm ) then you will need to purchase some front wheel spacers to move the wheel more to the outside of the car for clearance. Don't forget to use suitable length wheel nuts when fitting spacers, try any alloy wheel specialist for both items.

ID: 138 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Throttle Bodies Question: Ive just built a Hybrid R5 for circuit racing but unfortunatley missed this season. We are noe looking to put the car on throttle bodies over the winter. Has anyone done this before? If so what iginition system, what throttle bodies and who mapped it are my questions for starters Answer: Am i right in assuming that your R5 is now normally aspirated ( non turbo )? Anyway try speaking to companies such as Weber that offer the alpha managment system, they should be able to advise you on what you require.

ID: 139 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: chattering noise from turbo Question: having recently fitted a k&n filter to my car, removing the plastic flap in the induction pipe, my car now makes a chattering noise when i back off the gas, i presume this noise is coming from the turbocharger.could you please tell me what the cause is and if it will damage other components inc turbo. Answer: The chattering noise is the wastegate, it is normally masked by the standard airfilter boxes design. It is mostly noticed when a cone filter is fitted. On low boost it will not be a problem but if you run increased boost then a dump valve will help the longevity of the turbo's life.

ID: 140 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Hot Gearbox Question: Every time i run my 5 a long distance or when the engine is hot it is impossible to select a gear mostly 1st or 2nd ? Do i need a new box? or is they a way around this? Cheers Steve Addy Answer: Hello Steven, Apologies for the delay in getting around to answering your first post - First thing is to check that the clutch is clearing correctly, this can be the cause of a worn or partially seized clutch or that the biting point is too low i.e. near the carpet . If its a relatively new clutch then i'm afraid it's the gearbox at fault.

ID: 141 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Excessive smoke Question: When I give my car a bit of a thrashing, I've just recently stareted to see loads of grey smoke coming out of my exhaust. My car has some sort of hybrid on and the smoke starts just as the turbo needle gets towards the end of the gauge. Is this a likely sign of turbo death or something else? Answer: It could well be an indication of a fuelling problem, take the car to a rolling road near you to confirm the fault.

ID: 142 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: smokey Joe's!!! Question: I have just fitted a new turbo to my 5 and it spins up and sounds fine. But, if I keep it at full boost (10psi) for more than 5 seconds, take my foot off the accelerator pedel then put it back down again (even just a little!) I get a load of smoke out of the exhaust. I originaly thought it was the oil seals that had gone but if they do go, you also get alot of smoke on tickover, and it does not smoke at all on tickover, which is set at about 800-900rpm. I have a feeling it could be the oil return hose from the bottom of the turbo is too short and has kinked and is not letting the oil escape fast enough?! Do you have any other ideas??? Answer: It may well be a build up of oil pressure in the turbo that is released through the seals due to the accelerator shut off. Make sure the pipe is replaced and oil flow is not restricted at all. Let me know if this cures the fault.

ID: 143 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: will not start :( Question: everytime i go to start my 5 it seems there aint enough power in battery to start it but as soon as i put a starter pack on to jump it then it starts, but i dont know why this is cos i have a new battery and a new alternater ? but some days it dont wanna start at all. Im not sure where to take it so someone can look at it, any help on this would be greatfull :) Answer: This sounds like it could be a lazy starter motor that is drawing too much power. Check all the connections on the power leads are clean and tight and if this doesn't help then it may be worth trying another starter motor on the car to see if this cures the problem.

ID: 144 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Manifold nuts & studs Question: Dear Wizard, Please could you help me with a problem that has arisen. After removing the 'FIREPROOF' turbo heatshield (after it caught fire) I have noticed that my manifold studs and nuts are breaking and loosening off even though they are genuine Renault parts. Is this because of the heat from the turbo without the shield? Will I need to replace the shield or is there another solution to this problem? Thanking you in advance with scorched toes & melted bonnet vent. P.S. Keep up the good work. Answer: There are people who do not have a heatshield at all and others who say you must have one. By the sounds of it you are only noticing loose nuts that may well have been like that for a while, due to the heatshield not obscuring your view. I recommend you try a new heat shield from one of the tuners like BB tuning (Kevlar type), GDI, Euro parts, etc etc. Vents to let hot air out of your engine bay will also help to reduce underbonnet temperatures.

ID: 145 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: advice for fitting Evo sport adjustable suspension Question: i have purchased these sus kit, if poss going to fit it myself have u got any hints & tips? Answer: The best tip is to spray all the nuts and bolts with a releasing agent like WD40 etc for a couple of days before you start the job. This will make it much easier to remove them as they are bound to be rusted to some extent. If your car has any sort of knocking from the suspension then you may need new rubbers etc for the strut tops so leave yourself a few days to get new parts if need be.

ID: 146 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: Inlet manifold breathers Question: Is it safe to either block them off or put a couple of MINI K&N filters on the inlet manifold breathers ?? I run a modded breather system with catch tank witha breather on the block and the rocker cover. Sorry to bother u wizard i have been quite busy with my car lately cheers Ben Answer: The pipes on the inlet manifold are for the oil fumes to be recycled into the engine, so it should be fine to block the holes up. If you put mini K&N's on there all you will do is weaken your mixture due to the extra air getting into the manifold.

ID: 147 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: SHUUSH Question: I've had my side exit system for about 9 months now and I'm starting to get tired of the noise. Is there anything I can do to silence just for long journeys and be able to change it back for cruising ? Answer: There are extra bolt on silencers available from some race circuits for cars that fail the noise tests, so it is possible but they will be unsightly and probably stick out from the side of your car! Another solution may be to drill a hole near to the outlet of the exhaust and pack the outlet with some wire wool, then put a splitpin into the hole to hold the wire wool in. This may well reduce performance due to the restriction to flow but it will be quieter.

ID: 148 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: boosts all day! Question: I have a J plate GT turbo, with few modifications. The turbo is standard but boosts at around 16-1700rpm, when driven slowly, in all gears. Modifications: Pipercross air filter, full scorpion exhaust,3"". Is this normal? Answer: This to me sounds like your engine is breathing very easily and should not concern you as it is just spinning up with the exhaust flow. I take it that is when it starts to boost and not full boost??

ID: 149 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: stalling Question: i own a 88 5 and all of a sudden when i come up to stick it in to first gear the car stalls. Because of this i am running with the choke on all the time, the car is standard apart from a filter and a dump valve. Answer: Get the mixture checked by a garage/MOT station and set towards the upper limits to prevent the mixture from being too lean. This should sort you out.

ID: 150 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: DIAPHRAM DUMP VALVE Question: WOULD FITTING A DUMP VALVE TO A TOTALLY STANDARD PHASE 2 GTT HAVE ANY EFFECT ON THE PERFORMANCE OR ANY OTHER PARTS? Answer: All the dump valve does is release the boost pressure to stop the turbo stalling which creates lag. It will not feel any different as the boost is low but may help in future should you increase the boost. It just means you have that whoosh or tish noise which most of us love!!

ID: 151 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive

Subject: won't start Question: When the car is cold it starts first time, when it's warm and left for half hour, there's no chance of starting it. Checked all connections, new battery etc. Only way of starting is by bumping it. Any ideas, please. Answer: There are a few things you could check, Is the anti-perc fan working?, Is the starter spinning or clicking when you try and start?, Has the car been regularly serviced? You will really need to take it to a tuner or reputable garage if these things are all ok. Sorry i couldn't be more help but my elves have all gone for a holiday!

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