| ID: 92 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: NEW TURBO'S Question: HI, CAN YOU GIVE ME SOME ADVICE, I HAVE JUST BOUGHT A SHELL OF A TURBO AS MINE GOT WRITTEN OFF BY SOME BERK IN A VITARA, THE ENGINE IS NOT MODDED AT ALL BUT I HAVE QUITE A BIT OF SPARE CASH FROM THE INSURANCE TO DO AS I PLEASE . I WANT TO MOD THE ENGINE AS I ALREADY HAVE : PRIMA RACING WIDE ARCH KIT SPAK RSX FRONT & BACK SUSPENSION LEATHER INTERIOR ( HAND MADE ) FULL ALPINE ICE ALL THE WAY THROUGH CAN YOU GIVE ME SOME ADVICE WHAT TO DO TO THE LUMP TO GET THE PSI UP I'VE ORDERED A NEW HYBRID STAGE 2 TURBO BUT WHAT ELSE DO I GET? THANKS IN ADVANCE JK Answer: Here are some ideas and approximate guide prices : Group A carburettor £100 plus fitting Group A headgasket - 50 plus fitting Gasflowing - 300 plus fitting Cam shaft - 100 plus fitting Call GDI, BB Tuning or another recommended tuner and they will talk you through the options. It all depends on how much money, and what you want from your car! |
| ID: 93 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Devil Rally Exhaust Question: Im thinking about getting a devil rally exhaust is there any problems fitting it 2 a 1.4 GTS. The engine is a out of a turbo. But the chassi is a GTS. Answer: No problem, the super five chasis is identicle |
| ID: 94 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Change Question: Im putting a GT Turbo Engine in my 1.4 GTS will there be any problems fitting the engine or any problems with the electrics. Answer: Yes, The ECU is different, and the turbo has an electric fuel pump, controlled by a circuit managed relay, which you will have to find and wire in yourself. Other than that, wiring and mounts are pretty similar. Also take into account that there are a few ancillaries that you will need to fit. |
| ID: 95 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: uprated head Question: dear wizard, i am thinking of uprating the head on my 5 to a stage 2 and want your option on which u think is the best one and where is the best place to get it from, also will i have to uprate the cam as well. Answer: I would try BB tuning or GDI. Both have proven results, that I know are reliable. A cam shaft is not necessary, but you will find that most heads are designed around a particular cam profile. I would change the cam though, as it will give you about 25 BHP on its own! |
| ID: 96 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Max boost /standard turbo? Question: Dear Wise one, Can you tell me what maximum psi I can run on a standard turbo? I've got a dump valve, a strapped intercooler and an air induction kit but otherwise my engine is standard. Can it take 16 psi and if so what mods if any are required. Thanks, Scot. Answer: Hello Scot, You can run 16 psi on a standard turbo - however its life will be substantially reduced over running standard boost. How long it will last depends on how old it is already and the kind of use it has seen before. For long term use running higher boost, a hybrid is recommended. These are more easily able to cope with running greater boost for prolonged periods of time. Provided you keep an eye out for the warning signs of turbo failure (especially noise from the turbo and blue smoke from the exhaust) you will be safe to run 16 p.s.i. in the meantime, however you should increase the size of the carburettor jet to ensure that adequate fuelling is avaialble and that the engine does not run lean. The key point to notice is that whilst the engine may not be 'damaged' as such, although it will be under greater stress, the clutch however will wear significantly faster and replacement is relatively expensive. So it's wise to fit an incar adjuster so you can turn the boost down when you don't need the increased performance. Finally, as ever, make sure your cooling system is operating properly and make sure the car does not overheat. Good luck! |
| ID: 97 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gauges Question: Wizzy, I seem to have a problem with the gauges on my car. First of all the oil pressure gauge started to become erratic (jumping up and down most of the time) and now my speedo is doing the same thing. It either works, doesn't work or swings up and down (although it never seems to go over the speed I'm actually travelling at). I something breaking down behind my dashboard? or are the sender units faulty and where are they if it is? I know its a common problem so I hope you have a common answer! Thanks, Stan. Answer: The common answer is below, on your previous question! |
| ID: 98 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Spax Shockers Question: I got a cheap set of Spax front adjustables for £20 from a scrappy, after fitting them I get the impression that the cornering in lighter and if I cornered quickly my motor would end up like the car I got the shockers off....(squashed) How do I set the shockers up as I did not get any instructions seeing that I got them second hand. I basically want it set up for normal road use so it handles better than standard. Any help would be much appriciated. Thanx Answer: They adjust on the 8mm nut at the top of the shock ( get to it through the turret). Clockwise for a harder ride, anticlockwise for a softer ride - you should feel clicks as it turns. Are you sure that you bought the correct shocks? phase 1 and 2 cars have different suspension angles, and if you have the wrong ones you can forget handling! |
| ID: 99 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Puddle of fuel vapour. Question: Every time I stop the motor, which I try and run until the fan cuts in before I switch off, I get a puddle of vapour which smells like fuel under neath the engine bay of the car. There is a small pipe coming down from the engine and it appears to be coming from that. Can you tell me if this is normal or not, I am thinking that it has something to do with the anti-perc fan. Please help me oh wise one as it is worrying to see a fuel like liquid dripping from me motor, especially when hot?????? Cheers Simon. Answer: There is a 1/4"" pipe coming from the side of the carburettor and exiting down the front of the engine, which is a fuel overflow pipe. This is only used if the carburettor has a problem. If it is leaking fuel, stop using the car and get the carburettor looked at, or you will soon be looking at toast! |
| ID: 100 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: STEARING RACK Question: A SIMPLE ONE THIS, I HOPE, HOW EASY IS IT TO REPLACE THE STEARING RACK?. THE ENGINE IS STILL IN THE CAR. ARE THERE ANY TRICKS OR PITFALLS I SHOULD KNOW ABOUT. ANY HELP WOULD BE GRATEFULLY RECIEVED. THANK YOU. Answer: Its not fun! Most of it is done from underneath of the car, but I can't help you any further, as there are three different racks/ mounting designs available and I dont know which one you have. |
| ID: 101 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Air Filter Question: I have just fitted a GT Tuning ram air induction kit. The inductio roar that it has given me is great but it has also given me waste gate flutter, I was wondering would this pose any threat to the turbo and if so would fitting something ie a dump valve do anything to pro long the life of the turbo, I shall be fitting a 2 1/2 inch exhaust as well in the next few weeks will this help as well? Thanks in advance Clueless GTturbo owner James Answer: A dump valve is a good idea and should stop your wastgate fluttering around in the wind. It will also stop back pressure on the turbine blades when you change gear/come off the throttle and thus prolong the life of the blower. Ensure you have fitted the air filter correctly and that it is not touching anything. If it splits you will have dirt hitting your turbine blades at Mach 1 which will put them out of balance and kill the turbo's bearings. |
| ID: 102 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Size Matters. Question: Dear Wizard. I own an 89 R5 Dimma. my problem is that I am in the process of changing my split rim alloys, due to the state in which they have become. And rather go for the 15 inch wheels again, my question relates to what wheel and tyre sizes I can accomidate in both 16 and 17 inch alloys. Many thanks. Sean patterson. Draycott, Derbyshire. Answer: The honest answer is that I'm not sure. On a normal height 5 you can go to 17"". I think that your best course of action is to go to a wheel/tyre specialist, such as extreme, and ask them to mount a few wheels, to see what fits. |
| ID: 103 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 17"" Alloys Question: I want to fit 7.5"" x 17"" alloys to my GT Turbo with AVO coilovers. Will this require considerably more arch modifications than using 7"" x 17"" wheels or is a similar amount of work required. Also will I be able to carry any passengers in the back Thanks Mark Wynne Answer: Have a chat with Mr Rae on the message board as he has recent experience of this! |
| ID: 104 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Suspension Problems Question: I have slammed my phase one three inches at the front using three inch lowering springs. Soon after I fitted new driveshafts and was told by my friend that because of the ride height the drivers side driveshaft has no movement in the inner spider (next to gearbox) which sits inside an inclosed cylinder sliding in and out. The problem is its hard against the end of the cylinder and causes a vibration when cornering to the left. This vibration is eating my driveshafts so before i change it i was wondering if there is other options i.e. a custom made shaft or can i use a shaft from another renault model that is a slighly different size or will i have to face the inevitable and raise the car. I leave this problem in your capable hands GOOD LUCK! Answer: There are different length shafts available for the GTT. I suggest that perhaps you have the wrong one!!?? Have you checked that the half-shaft (the female bit on the box) is fitted properly and hasn't moved down its spline towards the wheel? It should sit flush to the gearbox. |
| ID: 105 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: My Perc Fan Isnt Starting Question: My Perc Fan isn't coming on after i turn off the engine what should i do. Answer: Check the fan circuit by disconnecting the wires at the sensor above the turbo and shorting them together. The fan should come on. If not, check the fuse by the fan motor (7.5A), check that there is a positive voltage on one of the sensor wires that you disconnected, check the relay on the inner wing by the motor is working and then fear the worst! The fan can be tested before you buy a new one, and replacement items are about £60->80 from companies like GDI and BB tuning. |
| ID: 106 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: frazzled heatshield Question: Hi Wiz hows it hanging?. Maybe you could shed some light on this:The other day on the way to southend for a cruze I noticed a strong burning smell I pulled in to a petrol garage to check it out and to my horror found that the heatshield over the turbo was smouldering quite heavily. I got the car back to my house and started it the next day to find that the manifold is blowing heavily and the car runs with no power and is very jerky. Can you help me out. Will it be expensive to repair??. From Laurence Answer: My Magic Wand hangs straight down thanks! Changing the manifold gasket is a horrible job and is therefore relatively expensive. The problem is mainly access to the nuts, which hold the two manifolds on. It is a job that you can do yourself, but budget yourself at least 3 hours to do it. As for the heatsheild, a lot of people leave them off, because of the fire hazard. If you are buying one, ensure it is new! The Renault ones are very expensive, but BB tuning do a very nice half heat sheild for a reasonable price. If you are going to run without the heatshield, ensure that all of your wiring and pipework are tied away from the turbocharger and exhaust system. Good luck !! |
| ID: 107 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: OVERHEATING Question: I HAVE A 1990 R5GTT WITH 90000 MILES ON THE CLOCK AND HAVE A BAD OVERHEATING PROBLEM WHEN I AM CRUISING AT 70-75mph THE TEMP READING IS JUST OVER THREEQUARTERS I'VE HAD A NEW RADIATOR THERMOSTAT AND FAN SENSOR BUT STILL THE TEMPERATURE KEEPS RISING.THERE ARE NO WATER LEAKS AND I HAVE BLED THE SYSTEM ACCORDING TO MY HAYNES MANUAL.ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED Answer: Like you have said, the thermostat, radiator and the system being bled are the only things that will effect how the temperature is when you are cruising. Try bleeding the water system again, and see if there is any air trapped. If there is, you may have a tiny water leak that is causing this. Try taking the thermostat out, the new one may be faulty, and running without one will discount the stat being a problem. There is a possibility that the temperature guage sender unit is faulty (located at the back of the water pump), but usually when they fail, they read maximum all of the time or minimum all of the time. Finally, a bit of a long shot ..... Some people fit very fine mesh to their grilles and bumpers that severely restrict airflow! Try all of these checks, and let me know if they don't cure them - Good luck |
| ID: 108 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Level Question: During a recent cam change whilst the engine was apart I changed the old tired actuater for another standard one (Bit skint at the mo !) but now I cant get it to boost any less than 16 PSI. I have in car and a bleed valve which I have checked for leaks. Is it because of the extra gasses from the cam (Piper 285 with uprated springs). I normally run only 12 psi but use the bleed valve etc to get 22 psi for the strip. I also run the turbo cup mod as I was told its needed for adjustable boost ? Looking forward to any suggestions as its costing me fuel ! Answer: The actuator may have been preloaded. Disconnect the arm that attaches it to the wastegate hinge and adjust it, so that there is just a small amount of tension in its spring, holding the wastegate shut. If the boost is still high, you probably have a small air leak in your actuator pipe, or perhaps the new actuator is either non standard or leaking. The turbo cup mod is not necessary to run adjustable boost, but does marginally reduce lag. The 285 cam, has a larger inlet profile, but the exhaust profile is not that much larger as the exhaust gasses need to be kept moving very quickly to improve turbo performance. The cam will not effect your boost reading as the actuator will always compensate for it. |
| ID: 109 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Question: i have just fitted to my 85k mile 90 gt turbo: new pistons and liners ( perfect circle ) gt tuning stage 1 cam new cam followers new big end bearings new oil pump high flow oil pipe stage 5 head grp a head gasket new valve stem seals oil + filter hybrid turbo 35k miles my question is why is the engine burning oil when the turbo boosts up and especially on over run? this was very bad at tickover with the hybrid turbo, so i changed it back to the standard which is slightly worn, now it does not smoke on tickover. are both turbos knackered? or has a piston picked up? Ben Elk Answer: There is a possibility that both turbos have gone. Have you checked the bearings on them for excessive play? On the engine build, did you align the rings at 120 degree intervals? Also check that the breather system is clean and connected up properly, as this can also cause the problems that you have mentioned. What oil are you using? If the first number is below 10, then the viscosity is too low and this can cause blue smoke aswell. |
| ID: 110 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No real power! Question: Hello there, I am hoping you can help cause I am quite annoyed with my car at the moment. I run about 13psi, strapped and flowed intercooler air filter etc...rolling roaded at 133BHP. I speak to other 5 owners who say there car is standard (which I do believe to be true) yet when I race them my car is only half a cars length in front. and they start to catch me. I have had this problem with more than just 1 standard motor, could it be my car is struggling for fuel or something cause I expect more from the performance. (I have not noticed my car to be any slower plus my boost gauge still reads up to 13psi) Thanks for your help. Answer: As standard, a five has approx 126 bhp, so the fact that you are only about half a cars length in fornt is about right. I would expect a little bit more from 13 psi, but you must appreciate that your car is probably at least 10 years old by now, and the engine is probably not as efficient as it once was. At 15-16 psi, most cars read anything up to about 150 BHP, and the air filter and strapped and flowed intercooler will make little or no difference, other than for reliability. I am not saying that there is anything wrong with your car, but there are so many factors that can effect performance, I couldn't possibly cover them all here. Have you thought about getting a check over and service done at a tuner such as GDI, or BB? You can check the spark plugs are still at the correct gap and are clean, the air filter and fuel filters are within service intervals, the carb is clean internally and sealed properly, all pipes are sealed well, Distributor cap and rotor arm are in good condition etc, etc... I could go on forever!! As well as this, you should have fitted a 135 main jet to keep your mixture OK. When they rolling roaded your car, did they check the mixture whilst the car was on boost?? You can have your mixture set at idle to 2% CO (because of the increased boost) at any garage or MOT station, and this may indeed make a difference as well. You should be charged less than £10 to do this. I hope this helps you quest for power! |
| ID: 111 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Adjustable timing sensor Question: Hello O'wise one, I have an adjustable timing sensor on my car with the timing retarded slightly. Do I really need it retarded? I always use Super Unleaded, don't run more than 19 psi. Have a big carb and intercooler along with a rather splendid Turbo Dynamics MD84. I was thinking if (and it's a big IF) I advanced the timing slightly I would gain more bottom end pick up. Is this a wise move? Or should I book it in to my local tuner? Thanks Gregg Answer: Optimum engine timing is at the central (original) position. Therefore if the timing is either advanced or retarded, it will result in an overall loss of power. When you move the sensor back, take the car for a test drive and drive it hard up to the red line (preferably on a hill) in third gear. Listen to the engine carefully for pinking, and so long as you don't hear any pinking, you should be ok. This is obviously no substitute for a rolling road, where they can check how rich the car is running on boost, and change carb jets to compensate. Be carefull when moving the sensor, as you really dont want to drop any bolts down the gap as they will remain in the bell housing and interfere with the flywheel/clutch mechanism. Good luck! |
| ID: 112 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starter Motor Question: TW, after travelling long distances I find when I turn my 5 off, then try to start straight away, I am unable too. When I turn the key I don't get a anything, except a little decrease in the sound of the 'wurring' of perc fan/rad fan. I usually have to wait approx 20 mins for it to cool down until I can start it. Ideas? (this is my 4th starter motor in 6 months) Thanks in advance, James. Answer: Hot starting is a known problem with GT Turbos. This is caused by the fuel vapourising when the engine is hot and is most acute after a run when the engine is turned off and left for about five minutes, then re-started - e.g. at petrol stations. Renault fitted an antipercolator fan to phase 2 GT Turbos which is designed to blow cool air to the base of the carburettor and should run on for up to 20 minutes or so after the engine is switched off. While this doesn't eradicate the problem completely it does help a lot, and if it isn't working that might explain why you're having the problem. Not to be confused with the radiator fan which, on most cars, makes a loud whining noise, the perc fan sits on the left hand side of the bay and makes a low humming sund. It is activated by one or both of two sensors - one in the base of the carb on the right hand side, and the other seated in the turbo heat shield. Either can activate the sensor. The most common reasons for failure are a) failure of sensor(s) especially the one over the turbo since the carb one is slower to activate, b) the fuse blowing or c) failure of the unit itself. If you don't hear it working, try bridging the thermo sensor over the turbo (but don't touch the connection!) and see if it starts. If not, check the fuse, and if no joy, one of the tuners should be able to sort out a replacement unit for you. Finally, when starting a hot engine, always press your foot down slightly - not too far - on the throttle as you turn the key. Once you learn the right throttle opening you'll be able to start the car much more easily. Additionally, the starter motor should be protected by a heat shield. If it's missing you will probably find you do have starting problems where the motor just clicks and does nothing. You can buy a replacement from Renault or make one up - again, speak to the tuners to see what they have to say. Hope this helps! |
| ID: 113 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Tappit Noises Question: My car makes has always made annoying tappit noises, re-setting the rocker/push rod gaps to something like the sizes suggested in the haynes manual quietens it slightly, but still makes noise. I have heard (or not) other 5's which are dead quiet - how do I shut my tappits up? Could anything be worn? (My car has done 69k and has just had an oil change - which made it slightly quieter) What do you suggest? Answer: It could be that the cam followers themselves are worn or the rocker shaft. It may be that the followers just need to be rubbed down with fine emery cloth as this works on most cars! |
| ID: 114 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Whos Oil Is it Anyway? Question: I am wondering what Oil I should use, I have heard that mobil 1 is the best, and this is what my car has been running on all it's life (nearly), but it is the 0w40 oil which I have read is a little thin-should I use the 15w50 synthetic mobil 1 oil?Please help as I do not want to wreck a good engine!!!! Answer: 15w 40 is the correct oil for the 5 Turbo with many satisfied users, just what the wizard ordered :-) |
| ID: 115 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wot petrol?????????!!! Question: I have just read the article on which petrol to use and also looked at all the messages regarding this subject too, but I still dont know wot fuel to fill up with... I have a standard GT TURBO `89... HELP!!!!!!!1 Answer: LRP is not recommended for use on performance turbocharged cars. To my knowledge no tests have been run which have unequivocally proven that it is safe to use standard unleaded; while this is unlikely to cause problems in the short term the main concern is valve seat recession caused by the lack of lead. BB Tuning do sell a fuel catalyst. It might be worth having a look at their article in the tuning section and giving them a call. In the meantime - Super Unleaded is the best option. It is still unleaded, but has the added bonus of a higher octane rating which helps to prevent a condition called ""pinking"" which can also cause damage to your engine. |
| ID: 116 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gasflowing Manifolds Question: I have a very high spec engine ready to go into my car it has oversize cosworth racing valves, low compression dished pistons, gasflowed head, and a high lift cam. The exhaust manifold is not flowed. I am going to bore out the carb elbow and flow the inlet manifold, how ever i have heard that flowing the exhaust manifold can make the turbo more laggy due to a slight reduction in pressure due to the larger bore of the manifold after a flow job. Is this true Any help appreciated cheers Wiz Ben Answer: There may be a slight increase in lag ( 1 or 2 hundred RPM ) but the performance gains midrange and top end will surely be worth the porting process. |
| ID: 117 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Washer bottle level senser. Question: Hello Turbo Wizard, I have a 1990 phase 2 GT Turbo which I love to bits and I'm always trying to find ways to improve it if I can. I used to own a phase 1 which had a low level senser on the washer bottle.The phase 2 hasn't.But I notice the warning lamp is still there. Do you know if the wiring for this is taped back in the harness close to the washer bottle ? If connected will it work ? Answer: Unfortunately the wiring you require does not exist on the Phase 2 model...shame really. As you've noticed the instrument panel is the same, so how about having a go at wiring it yourself. |
| ID: 118 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: speedo Question: dear wizzard, my speed constantly breaks. every time i get a new set of clocks, they last a couple of weeks, then start to fall off the dial, any suggestions. Answer: Are you purchasing secondhand clocks ? If so most of them have been subject to many variants such as your old clocks. It may not be the clocks but the wiring... check this out and remove and clean the sensor in the gearbox. |
| ID: 119 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ENGINE VIBRATION Question: Help, My engine seems extremely noisy and cause loads of vibration between 3000 - 4000 rpm. When I hit around 70 MPH it gets pretty bad but when I go past 85 ish it seems as quite as a fly. Whats goin on? My car is standard but a dump valve and it makes no difference if I take the dump valve off. It's been goin on since I bought the car 3 years ago but only got round to checking it out now. It has had one accident where side panels and front end were replaced but main engine untouched etc. Please help. Answer: Are you sure it is the engine? Does it happen in every gear or just one? This one could be a wheel out of balance if it happens at certain road speeds rather than engine speeds. Other than that, contact a tuner for more help as this is a bit hard to diagnose without seeing the car. |
| ID: 120 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil from the exhaust Question: I am geting oil cuming from the end of the exhaust wen the engine is cold is it time for a new turbo your help would be appreciated from david Answer: Remove the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler, if the intercooler has a lot of oil in it then its a good bet the turbo is at fault. To be certain, remove the breather hose that goes into the turbo inlet elbow, block the hole and see if any oil still comes out. You will need to take the car for a long run to burn off any oil in the exhaust. |
| ID: 121 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: panel fascia - gauge reading's Question: after purchasing a totally standard white 1990 r5gtt with 80k & fsh last month my oil pressure & temp gauge's no longer work, please could anyone advise me to as what the problem(s) maybe. Answer: Check for the obvious things like loose or broken wires, the senders are not the most reliable and neither is the dash! You could try fitting the dash from a friends car to eliminate the gauges being faulty and if its still the same renew the senders. |