| ID: 62 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Car backfiring and stuttering PT2 Question: checked what you said cheers wizard it turned out to be a snapped wire from the timing sensor insulation was fine just the wire core had snapped causing the misfiring and backfiring. THanks for your help wizard Ben Answer: No problem my friend.... |
| ID: 63 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Misfiring motor Question: Hi Wizard Firstly, thanks for your previous advice, I got a new mixture screw and it sorted my idling and backfiring problems. My latest problem is a misfiring above 4500rpm, apart from that the motor is running fine. I have checked all the usual suspects, leads, timing sensor, rotor, mixture etc The car is currently at GDi and they are kinda stumped as well, the misfire sounds like a rev limiter would, not pinking or anything like that. It may be undefuelling at high rpm, as I have a reasonably high spec engine with high lift cam, but what would cause this? Possibly Fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump? Or could it be an ECU fault? It happens irrespective of boost levels, which are set to around standard at the moment. As is the timing sensor. If I cant get the problem sorted I may have to rolling road it, but I've only done about 1500 miles on my rebuilt engine so I would like to wait a bit longer to put it on the rollers. Any ideas Wizard?? I'm fed up of having to short shift it everywhere to avoid misfiring. Keep being embarrassed by Novas and RS's!!! Answer: See next mail, I believe from the lads at GDI that the knock sensor bypass was not behaving.... disconected it ran fine. Odd |
| ID: 64 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Front Subframe Question: Thanks wizard. Finally got hold of Mark Fish Autosport and he looked at his subframes and we came to the conclusion that this one needs the front rounded portion cut off on the offside. The bolt holes all line up and all is square and the suspension is square so that is what we will do. Thanks for your help. Tom Howell's Dad! (who prefers to stick with easier to work on vintage cars) Answer: Thanks for getting back to me re- this one. Good result. |
| ID: 65 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure gauge Question: My oil pressure gauge is very tempremental, it either flicks erraticly, doesn't move at all, sticks at 2 and won't move for several miles, but can behave normally [between 2 and 4].Is this a faulty sensor or do i have a problem? Answer: The great Wizard is familiar with this typical problem. I suggest getting a new sensor, they are nearly always faulty. make sure though to be on the safe side that the oil pressure is checked by a garage with a calibrated gauge. good luck. |
| ID: 66 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Dial on the Dashboard Question: Mr Wizard, I have just fitted a new turbo to my 5 as I blew the previous one shortly after I had the in-car boost upgrade from BB Tuning. The car now drives really well but before when I used to turn the boost on the turbo dial in the car would go off of the scale and now only seems to go three quarters of the way round and I don;t seem to have as much power even though the turbo is slightly larger. Is there anyway I can get more boost out of the turbo ? Thanks Stuart Answer: It really depends on the turbo fitted, you need to be sure of the boost limit of the turbo and if the engine is safe to run within these limits as well. I suggest getting the boost level checked with a calibrated gauge and going from there with whoever you use. BB, GDI etc can help with this for you. make sure they know what jets etc are in the carb. |
| ID: 67 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Phase 1 engine Phase 2 car ? Question: I have been offered a Phase one car really cheap with a spare engine, I am thinking of stripping down this engine and rebuilding/modifying it to put into my F-reg Phase two. I know the turbos are different but I,ll be using my hybrid from the f-reg anyway, Can I swap the engines, if so what will I need to swap i.e.water pump for turbo etc. Also what about the Gearbox ? I,ve heard the phase one has different ratios hence the better 0-60 ? Answer: Basically as long as you have a C1J engine you can use it in a ph1 or ph2. As far as the gearboxes are concerned I would stick with whichever is the newest as an old box is going to be a pain..... The water pumps etc are the same, all that is majorly different is the water plumbing and the ECU design. Good luck and keep on boosting. |
| ID: 68 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo seized Question: Dear Wizard, I have a problem (but the medication is helping these days!) My turbo stopped the other day and i had no boost pressure at all. I investigated the problem and the turbo rotor turned a little then was stuck. After fiddling for a bit the rotor became free running. The boost presure is back to normal now, no smoke or strange noises from the turbo. Is the turbo on its way out or is this normal? The turbo is recon 2 1/2 years old with 25K miles on it running about 12psi. Steve. Answer: Steve If there are no other problems then I would just be careful for the time being. If I had my proper Wizard hat on I would say flush the oil at least. To be totaly safe then get the turbo inspected by a turbo company. I know Turbo Dynamics etc do this for about £40. Other than that keep and eye on things If all else fails sprinkle some wizard dust on the bugger. |
| ID: 69 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running lumpy on tickover. Question: My car is a low mileage raider with a very comprehensive history and has been very well maintained. I dont think the problem is a major one. The car has a green air filter, uprated carb needle and in-car boost control as well as a dump valve. When idling the engine runs a low tickover which I have adjusted to no effect. The car will stall then when restarted it is ok for a while. It does not happen all the time. I have had a carb kit put on 2 months ago. Could it be electrical (leads or alternator) and would it help to fit an uprated alternator and silicone HT leads. Answer: Hmmmmm 1.. Check all the vacum pipes for leaks. 2.. Check the breather system is fully conected and the restrictors are in place. 3.. Check condition of Ignition system, replace if necessary. 4.. If all else fails give GDI, BB tuning etc a call and explain to them the problems and see if they can help best of luck my young friend |
| ID: 70 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: INTERMITTANT CUTTING OUT AND FAILING TO START Question: ONCE OR TWICE MY 1990 GT TURBO HAS BEEN SAT IDLING WHEN THE ENGINE HAS STOPPED. WHEN I TRY TO START IT, THE ENGINE TURNS BUT WILL NOT FIRE. THEN AFTER A SHORT WHILE WITH NO FIDDLING IT WILL START AND RUN PERFECTLY. WHEN IT WAS STOPPED I PULLED OFF THE MAIN HT WIRE AT THE DISTRIBUTOR AND CHECKED FOR A SPARK, IT WAS VERY WEEK. IT ISNT A HEAT PROBLEM AS THE CAR CAN BE PARKED AND LEFT OVERNIGHT (AFTER NO RUNNING PROBLEMS) AND WILL FAIL TO START. BUT THEN I TRY LATER AND IT FIRES AND RUNS WITHOUT INCIDENT. THE CAR IS STANDARD AND HAS BEEN PERFECTLY RELIABLE UP TO NOW. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON. PLEASE HELP! Answer: Well I suspect that the coil may need replacing, try changing it with another and see what happens. If not that then check the Ignition module timing pick up, or timing sensor, shoud read about 250 ohms accross the conector plug. good luck, if that does not help, give one of the GT specalists a call to see if they can help |
| ID: 71 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Breather System Question: Wizard GDI have managed to sort out my misfire, but I am now having a few problems with my oil breather system. I have no swirl pot or pipes for the breather system, and was running with a 3/4"" pipe coming off the rocker cover, and another smaller bore silicone pipe coming off the sump. I connected these two pipes together with a T piece and put the single pipe from the T into my home made catch tank, which is vented with a small hole at the top. When driving it seemed to be fine until blue smoke started pouring out the exhaust, which I thought was the turbo seals. When I disconnected the pipes to the catch tank and let the sump and rocker breath into thin air it stopped smoking, but when the pipes are vented into thin air then oil goes all over the engine bay at high revs. Is there another way to run my oil breather system or will I have to get all of the standard breather pipes and swirl pot from a breakers?? Thanks in advance Marko Answer: I would suggest marko that the standard system is a good bet as you seem to have tried all other avenues. what was the missfire problem then.? |
| ID: 72 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Soaking wet Carpet! Question: Dear Wizard, Everytime it rains my 5 seems to be taking in more water than the Titanic!!!! It soaks the carpet beneath the driver's seat and towards the back of the driver's footwell (near the seat). My GT does not have a sunroof and I have eliminated the chance of an under-car leak. Please Please help my carpet from getting soaked!! Thanks Daniel. Answer: I would suggest checking the windscreen seals as well as the door seals. if its not that the heater matrix is also inside the car, behind the center section of the dash, check that too. |
| ID: 73 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Suspension setups and wheel sizes Question: Hi wizard. This has become quite a site-congratulations. Question about (our) Gt turbo mods. We have a body shell and are starting from scratch to create a good road/weekend competition car. I saw your comments about the Avo kits on a previous question. Are there any other kits or mods that you would suggest when you are starting from square one? Now wheel sizes must have an influence. No I son is muttering about 19"" wheels. I am saying what about rolling radius's, tyre profiles and suspension clearance. Is'nt 19"" too large? I would guess that as a GT is front wheel drive and has a rather short wheel base that body stiffness is worth increasing (if so where and how), that anti roll measures are going to be quite a compromise on confort and matching corner weights are going to be important. Does any body use their Turbo for competition use and if so in what series or class? Does it not fall into the 2000-3000cc category because of the turbo ratio at 1.5? Look forward tomhearing from you Nick Howell Look forward to haering from you? Answer: Nick A roll cage stiffens the chassis by about 70%.... a good investment The Avo kit is a good investment also, but not for the cup series, the car need to conform to the cup specs. 19"" is FAR too large to work for a track car. 15"" is the best size for handling, 195, 45, 15 tires also to keep the rolling diameter the same. there's a start at least. |
| ID: 74 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stuttering Question: Wiz, please help. this week i'm experiencing alot of problems with the 5 stuttering. it's done it before a few times when i've floored it in 4th but it's doing it now under little load and without the turbo even coming in. At low revs it fails to pick up and needs dropping a gear to pick up without stuttering. Got a new fuel filter to be put on and hope it's the prob, what can you suggest??? - thanx in advance Answer: A fuel blockage is almost certainly the problem, I suggest cleaning the jets in the carb, perhaps getting the carb serviced and change that filter. when you change the filter also check the small inline filter that is inside the fuel pump as well. |
| ID: 75 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: steam in top radiator hose Question: i have a phase one car with 57k on the clock and a problem with steam building up in the top radiator hose. The turbo is water cooled is this standard on a D reg car or has this been changed by the previous owner? the car does not seem to be over heating but after a long run the top hose is full of steam even when the system is bled,is the air being drawn in from the expansion tank? also when the car is left to tick over blue smoke starts to come out the exhaust is this down to worn turbo seals? ps thanks for your time and i await your reply. Answer: I suspect that the turbo is on the way out, get it checked, GDI I know are able to get a check done for about £35, ring around though. I think you are correct about air being drawn into the system, get a pressure test carried out to check for leaks. |
| ID: 76 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Which exhaust? Question: Wizard, I will soon be buying a new exhaust and wondered if you could recommend one to me. I quite fancy the Scorpion stainless steel system (3.5"" tail pipe) but have heard the system tends to knock. My car is lowered but not a lot. Aprt from that I like the Magnex but its £50 more and has a smaller pipe. Thanks. Stan. Answer: Magnex tend to fit better, but the cost is a factor. Redline MS make a side exit which is well priced , and sounds brilliant. Sorpian are good, but fit is not as good as the others. |
| ID: 77 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil in the Water - An Epic Saga Continues.. Question: Hello again. Since the last episode I've had the head off again and had it skimmed. They took 12 thou off so there was a pretty substantial degree of distortion. Since the head was below the minimum thickness before the skim I opened out the chambers (to 41.5cc) with a rotory rasp to compensate. While I was at it I cleaned up the ports and doweled/matched the manifolds. )There was a huge (2mm!) missmatch on the exhaust manifold. I put it all back together with a new 1.9mm mellior gasket and..... I still get oil in the water. It's using about a pint of oil in 350 miles, I reckon that nearly all of that is going into mayonaise production. I reckon the remaining possibilities are 1. Warped block 2. Liners not correctly seated causing the head to be held off the block 3. oil leak to the jacket in the turbo. 1 and 2 are going to mean another bout of head removal + new gasket so I want to put them off untill I have isolated all other possibilities. Can I safely run the car with the turbo disconnected from the water cooling system? Is the turbo design much different from the phase 1 air-cooled type?. If I could try this it would eliminate a possibility.... If I have a warped block I will have to do a major engine rebuild. Is the C1J block the same as any other engine? I guess that the con rods and/or pistons are specific to the turbo to give the low cr, but are any other parts common? I am hopeing I can get a cheap non-turbo block from a scrapper. Answer: I have come accross this problem before. I found out the block was warped in the end, in a place we could not measure. By all means check the turbo by disconnecting the water system from it, but not for long......idle only really. I suspect the worst case, but did you get the head pressure tested as well??? keep it up.... good luck also |
| ID: 78 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lowering Question: Hi Wiz, wondered if you could shed any light on the question ""how low can I go?"" I`ve got 15inch rims running on Goodyear 195/50/r15, and on full lock the tyres do a bit of scrapping, is it possible to lower the car with these slightly bigger tyres on without bashing any bodywork, or should i get some 195/45`s? I`m not looking for a big drop, just something to tidy up the looks mainly, even though nicer handling wouldn`t go a miss. Also, can you recommend any good uprated springs and dampers, as I think this is the route I will end up going when I do drop it. Cheers, and keep up the good work. Ian Answer: Best to go for 195/45/15 as this is the correct rolling diameter for the car. Also a -50mm drop at the front and -60 to -70 at the back is a good drop to have on the GTT, works well for handling, with 45 profile tires though. AVO are my favourite at the moment, if you have the cash the Sport Evolution kit is a winner, if not then AVO shox with -50mm springs from Andy at Redline MS. |
| ID: 79 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil in Intercooler/Hoses Question: Dear Wizard, Here we go… After taking off the intercooler (to give it a maintenance check) I noticed to my horror oil in both hoses! The turbo seized back end of last year and was replaced with a standard Air Research one running standard pressure. When the new Turbo was fitted it was mentioned to me that there was some oil in the hoses – presumably from the old turbo. The oil that I have now noticed looks like fresh oil from a recent oil change. There is also fresh oil in side the intercooler and at the inlet to the carb. The is no smoke at start-up/tick-over or under acceleration. Is there still a problem somewhere? Cheers Chris Allen Answer: Chris The turbo may indeed be allowing oil through. Check however that the breather system is clean, as this does put oil into the intake of the turbo whilst on boost, should not be too much though. Clean the hoses and intercooler with de-greaser and hot water to flush ALL the oil from them, also the entire breather system and see what happens then. good luck |
| ID: 80 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine rebuild Question: Dear wizzard I,m about to rebuild an engine and have a couple of Questions. What is porting a head ? I know about gas flowing but thats it. What are wire ringed liners how are they an improvement over standard ? What makes low compression pistons special and can I modify standard pistons with a lathe/miller etc. Also any rebuild tips ? Cheers. Gareth Williams Answer: Gareth Good on you for having a go yourself. Porting is making the ports in the head / manifolds larger. A wire ringed liner is a magnesium ring around the top of the liner that digs into the head gasket to stop the fire ring being stetched by high boost (very effective) GDI I believe do wire ringing for £80 a set of liners. A low comp piston basically reduces compression ratio which in turn reduces the chance of pinking. You can modify the pistons yourself, but removing the gugeon pins is hard. Make sure eveything is spotlessly clean, be methodical, and use a torque wrench. Also, don't skimp on bearings etc. I would also suggest a new oil pump while you are at it. good luck |
| ID: 81 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CONE FILTERS Question: WOULD YOU USE ONE DUE TO THE POSITION WHERE IT IS FITTED. Answer: Recent reports have sugested that a big panel filter is better than a cone filter. A paper filter gives better protection to the turbo |
| ID: 82 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cams Question: Eh Up Wizard! As I own 2 GT Turbos (Despite being on apprentice wages!) I have decided to have 1 really silly one and 1 for everyday driving. My engine (for the impractical one) is in the process of being rebuilt and im hankering for a cam, Im not sure which to go for (Fast road, Road/Rally or GRP A) as they all have the same list price. Which would u personally recommend? Does a vernier pulley really make much difference? I may need the extra pace to pull my new wide arch kit! Thanks. Answer: I would suggest a Piper 285 cam, expect about 20hp more and a higher powerband. This is a great bit of kit. |
| ID: 83 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo removal Question: what are the steps required to remove the turbo from the car. Ive looked at the haynes manual but its not informative enough,I can remove the air intake system and the bolts securing the turbo heat shield,but i cant remove the heat shield from the car as there isnt any space to take it off, Answer: Taking the heat shield off is fiddly and requires bending the sheild a little and moving it around a lot to free it from the pipes etc. After that remove the oil feed and return lines and after unbolting the turbo should come off the car. To get the heatshield off without damage it may be necessary to remove the breather pipe and water pipes from behind the maifolds etc. It always going to be tricky though. |
| ID: 84 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Question: How long does a standard turbo last at 16 psi and how much damage is done to the standard engine at this pressure? Thanks. Answer: Hello Grant. If you have set your boost ceiling to 16 psi, it doesn't follow that you will always be achieving this - it depends upon your individual driving style. So it isn't really possible to say how long it will last, it will also depend on the condition and age of the turbo. As this is approximately twice standard boost, a standard turbo from new may well only last for 30,000 miles before it begins to expire. You can continue to run with the standard turbo at this boost level but it is important to watch for signs of failure - notably blue smoke from the exhaust - and replace it before it dies completely, avoiding the risk of damage to the engine. As to the question of damage to the standard engine - running increased boost causes increased wear and stress on all engine parts. Items like chargecoolers which reduce the temperature of the air going into the engine are a good preventitive purchase. A properly set up car with flowed intercooler/chargecooler, correctly set up carburettor and correctly functioning fuel pump, amongst other things, can run a ceiling of 16 psi - however running increased boost will always bring forward the day when the clutch and turbo will need to be replaced. It's more a question of longetivity than of reliability. |
| ID: 85 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lag Question: I""m currently running a Turbo Technics stage 2 hybrid.(T175S I Think). The trouble is it lags like mad at low revs but at the top end it""s fantastic. To use the words of Dave Perry @ DP Motorsport ""so it""s you with the lorry turbo that lags a bit, would be alright on the track though"". They have offered to take it apart and see what they can do with it. Is it worth me doing this or is it better to buy a new turbo or are there any other ways of improving the turbo at low revs. It""s starting to annoy me that I""ve no ""off the line punch"" from the turbo. Thanks. Answer: Unfortunately its mainly to do with the units air ratios and turbine design, so there may be very little that they can do. Generally the bigger the turbines, the more the lag. Some hybrids use different rotor designs / roller bearings to overcome this. Twin turbo cars have a smaller turbo for low rev boost, and a larger turbo for top end pull to overcome this problem. As you say, you may have to change the turbo depending on what you want to acheive. |
| ID: 86 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Level Sensor. Question: I know that you have had questions regarding a faulty oil level/pressure gauge. But on my 91"" H plate turbo, of which I have just become the owner of, the gauge will stick at 4 and wont move at all,once engine is running. The level sensor runs fine until you turn the key to fire the engine!!! The sender and gauge have been changed 2-3 times and I have all of them in the boot, is there an internal problem inside the dash i.e wiring earthing down??? The car has only done a documented 60K and runs fine, also I have a auxilary gauge fitted which reads ok!!! Please help!!! Answer: The wiring goes through the main harness connector in the engine bay below the water bottle. Try disconnecting it and cleaning it. |
| ID: 87 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: power loss Question: In April my renault was tested at 177 bhp @ 16 psi (flywheel). Since then I""ve added a double capacity intercooler, GTT air filter, adjustable timing sensor, water spray on intercooler and rejetted the carb. However the car was rolling road tuned today and only managed 163 bhp (flywheel) at the same psi. Is there somethimg wrong or was 177 bhp bullshit?????? Answer: Rolling roads often come up with different power figures. As well as the equipment on different rollers being out of calibration, other factors such as air temperature, fuel, type of cooling fans infront of the car etc can all make a difference. |
| ID: 88 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo blown? Question: i keep getting puffs of blue smoke i was just wondering wether it is time for a new turbo or is it something else? Answer: Blue smoke is a comon sign of impending turbo failure - it indicates that oil is leaking out of the seals and making its way out of the exhaust. If you're running increased boost on a standard turbo or if it has done in excess of 80,000 miles it could well be the turbo that is at fault. However blue smoke can be caused by a number of other factors including a generally worn engine. Best to get it checked over professionally now - if the turbo fails altogether you may be stranded and a catasptrophic drop in oill availability in the engine may cause damage. Finally, make sure you check your oil levels on a DAILY basis until the problem is sorted out. Best of luck! |
| ID: 89 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Speedo/Gauges Question: Wiz, I noticed my speedo fluctuating wildly the other day and it now only works intermittently or bounces up and down a lot. Is this my speedo itself or the sender unit. My oil pressure gauge also started doing a similar thing about a month ago so is there something breaking down in the dash? How can I best fix these annoying problems? Thanks for your help. Stan. Answer: The speedo cable has two connections to check and for want of a better word, wiggle (perhaps agitate would be better!). The first is on the bracket for the air box, and the second is a 3 pin connector on the back of the speedo clock. Its usually the one behind the dash. Disconnect it, reconnect it and the problem usually goes away. The speedo guage unit itself is also prone to failure. |
| ID: 90 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wheels & knocking noises Question: To Wizard, I""ve gradually got a knocking and squeaking noise off both my front wheels, i""ve had both the whell bearing changed, but it still makes that annoying sound, have you any ideas what it could be. Cheers Martin. Answer: Try the bottom ball joints, track rod ends and suspension strut top bushes and top bearings. Wheel bearings generally make a wuring noise when they fail! Test the joints using a crowbar, to see if there is play in them first and then you will have to take the strut off to test the top mount bearings and bushes. |
| ID: 91 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Fire Question: The other night, (on a private road officer),at an indicated 130 mph on 195 50 15s, i noticed it had become rather foggy behind me and pulled into the next lay-by. On opening the bonnet i was greeted by a pretty bonfire which seemed to be comming from the exhaust manifold area, i tackled the fire with my trusty bottle of water, topped up the oil and limped home. On inspection the next morning the whole engine bay was covered in oil and the water level had dropped considerably. After de-greasing the engine it seemed like oil was comming out of the exhaust mannifold nut on the turbo side of the engine. The water temp rises quickly and the warning light stays on from start-up, yet there is no oil in the water or vice versa, and no steam or smoke comming from the exhaust. The car also runs alright, please help me Wizzard.(sorry about the essay). Answer: The oil is probably coming from the rocker cover gasket and dripping onto the manifold. this will happen because of a faulty gasket, or to make lots of oil it is more likely because of a blocked/ improperly connected breather system. Check the breather pipes are clean, and the breather pipe going into the turbo intake elbow is connected properly. The red light on the temperature guage is probably because there is oil all over the connector for it on the water pump, or the sensor itself is faulty (especially if the red light is on when you start the engine from cold). |