| ID: 31 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost pressure Question: when i first got my car the Turbo guage used to go all the way round and would imply i am running about 17psi (ish). The boost guage now only goes up about 2 marks and when we put a proper guage on it read only 0.4BAR (6 psi). We have run the pipe that connects to the guage straight from the T piece (no apparent fracture)of the dump valve so the pipe cannot be faulty but the car doesn't feel to be running at this low boost. The performance doesn't appear to have dropped from when the guage used to go all the way round. What could the problem be??? Answer: 1.. Check all conections from the turbo outlet all the way though the boost pipes and all the vacume lines. 2.. Add some flour and eggs, mix well 3.. Any air leak anywhere in the system can cause this 4.. The performance has not dropped, are you sure of this.? 5.. Check the intercooler as well, the base of the carb. 6.. Basicly check anywhere, there is a boost seal...... |
| ID: 32 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wastegate Actuators Question: I have recently adjusted the wastegate actuator arm to increase the boost to 14 psi. The boost was fine to start with but dropped away after a few weeks. I have put this down to a tired spring as my car has done nearly 100,000 miles on what I believe is the original turbo. Can you suggest a good actuator to run at 14-15 psi. Is it worth spending more on a variable actuator? I would also like to ask about adjusting the over boost switch. What do you need to do and is it simple to alter? Answer: I would suggest as a long term investment, getting an adustable actuator. Sometimes known as T3 actuators. These are rebuildable and work very well. In fact the adjustable actuator only runs in a little more expensive than the fixed items avalable. I would again suggest buying one of these from a tuner who advertises in the watergate magazine or an owners club recomened tuner. See previous answer to see some of the tuners recomended good luck, if not sprinkle a little wizard dust on the car, works for me!! |
| ID: 33 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gearbox Question: My gearbox is knackered (whining, difficulty getting into 2nd...etc)- to remove it, do I follow 'Mr Haynes'(remove engine then separate gearbox and clutch...) or is there an easier way. I've heard some people say that you can drop the subframe (how?) and wiggle it out, or lift the engine on one side and get it out that way. Also how much should I be paying for a gearbox? Answer: From my experience I would suggest the Haynes method, less of a pain once it's all out. A 2nd hand box is about £150, or at least £350 for a semi-recon one. For a full rebuild it can be expensive.... unless you do what I did last time and get 4 old boxes and mixed the bits from them all and a couple of new bearings. The wiggle it method can be really awkward and take as long as removing the engine.... good luck and always, if in doubt, sprinkle some wizard dust.... call a tuner for advice, BB, GDI, Euro Parts etc |
| ID: 34 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Overheating?? Question: Wizard, I'm in search of some answers. I have a 1990 (G-Reg) 5 and I cannot seem to cure the overheating problem the car has. Judging by the service history the car has gone through 4 temp fan switches......is this normal?????? The guage seems to give very irratic readings......at first it shoots right up then settles before going just before the hatched area under normal driving conditions. Can you give me any advise??? Daniel. Answer: Heat and GT's don't mix well eh! First change the temp sender unit, check all the wiring and then see what temp you are reading.. sounds like an electrical fault. The sender unit is not expensive After that I recomend you run a 82 degree thermostat and lower rated rad fan switch and copper radiator. again, as I always say, make sure you use a tuner recomended by the owners club.... They have all been veted by the editors and team that run the club and are recognised by the club as reliable and impartial. |
| ID: 35 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil warning lights Question: Am I correct in thinking that the oil guage should show level( engine stopped) and pressure (engine running). My guage shows level ok but shows zero once the engine is running. The pressure warning light works correctly. Are there separate senders for the warning light and the guage? If so where are thel located? Is there anywhere I can get a complete and correct wiring diagram for the phase 2? The one in the haynes manual is incomplete! Answer: Ah, the Reanult gauge issue. The oil pressure has it's own sender on some models, and a combined sensor on older cars, although they do have separate wires.. The sensor is located at the base of the turbo oil feed line. You are correct in your assumption of the order of the gauge workings also. You should be able to buy a wiring diagram from renault, won't be cheap though. Good luck. |
| ID: 36 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Coil Springs Question: The drivers side coil spring on my 5 has developed a strange 'clonk' when the wheel is turned. When I looked under the arch I noticed that when the 'clonk' occurs the spring seems to catch and release on something, therefore, causing the 'clonk' which is getting worse quickly. HELP!? Answer: The wizard and his clan suggest that the strut is removed and all the top mounting components are checked. I suspect that it is the bearing that has broken down. Give one of the tuners that advertise in the owners club magazine a call. |
| ID: 37 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Grp A carb? Question: Mr Wizard, I own a 1991 turbo with some minor mods to the engine.I have just replaced the original carb (which was leaking) with a Grp A one from Fives'R'Us in kent. When i ran the car after fitting it, my car seems to lack power. I have the ability to up the boost from an electrical operated switch inside the car to 15PSI. When I did this the first time, the turbo spun upto pressure OK but no more power was felt. It then lost all power and juddered badly. It runs OK now, but what's wrong with the carb? Answer: The main problem with replacing carbs is that they are rearly set accuratly. The further you push an engine the more critical the ""tune"" is. I suggest a trip to a tuner to get the CO set up correctly and to check the fitment of the carb. |
| ID: 38 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dump valve Question: ive just bought a double dump valve from a mate , he bought it from gt tuning , when i went to santa pod some owners said that there is no point in having a double dump unless you have got a better turbo i have a standerd turbo and it is 130 bhp , im only fitting these for the noise . is this ok to fit ? Answer: By all means fit the double dump valve, however there are no real advantages unless you are running HUGE boost to use two valves. |
| ID: 39 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Idling problems, juddering, backfiring coming down gears......... Question: Hello Wizard I am having a few problems with my recently rebuilt 5. It has just had a recon lightened and balanced engine fitted (from a recommended supplier) with all the right bits, and I am running new grp A carb, new Hybrid turbo etc. I have just done about 200 miles on the newly fitted engine, but it is running like a bag of nails. I am running no boost until I have done around 500miles. The engine revs move up and down erraticly, and it has hardly any power. I have checked the distributor drivegear has been aligned correctly, changed the leads, plugs, rotor arm and cap etc. The car refuses to idle most of the time. If I stop and muck around with the mixture and idle speed enough it will idle, but it just stalls 2 junctions down the road and is difficult to start, causing much embarrasment. I reckon it is maybe a faulty alternator (battery is charging fine though) or possibly ignition module, as it is an old 208 module in the phase 1 location. I have spent a packet replacing virtually every underbonnet part except the ignition module and alternator, could it be anything else? Answer: I suspect that there is an air leak, check the fitment of the carb and check the mixture screw and any points that could cause air to leak into the carb beneath the venturi. |
| ID: 41 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Mark Fish Auto sport Question: Hi Wizard, Any news on getting Mark fish telephone number yet? still have a problem with different subframes. The local renault garage has been little help so need an expert. Regards, Tom Howell Answer: Tom sorry for the delay, If you call GDI I know they are close to Mark Fish and will have his number. |
| ID: 42 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine knock? Question: Hiya me old wizardy geeza. My car has a knocking noise which I first thought to be tappet clearances. It is quite a deep noise that seems to turn into a continuos noise at speed. I don't appear to have lost any oil pressure and was wondering if it could be big ends or main bearings? Please help me your wiseness. Answer: Well Bruce Your reputation preceeds you.....! :-) Deep noises are more likey from the bottom end, might be the cam / dizzt drive etc you must get the sump off and have a good look round..... It might be any of the bearings, it is difficult to say really.... |
| ID: 43 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil additives Question: When shopping for oil I came across an Oil additive from Wynns called Turbo charge for oil. This claims to give added protection for turbo cars and reduce friction hence more BHP. Is this a load of rubbish or is it worth the cash £6 ? Also the Renault handbook says not to use an oil flush on changes, Can I ? Cheers Gareth Williams Answer: I would advise NOT using any oil additives in the GT engine. An oil flush is a good idea. make sure you use a good quality oil as well Mobile 15/50 oil is a good one. |
| ID: 44 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ignition unit Question: Wizard, I understand it is better to have the ignition unit behind the bulkhead and not over the turbo, so I went out and bought the bracket and cover to fit it behind the bulkhead. I was told it would fit straight on once I moved the wires. I have a longer ignition lead and all but one of the other wires is long enough. It comes from the front of the block out of a silver cylinder thingy, like a sender unit. Do you know how can I make this lead longer, or should I get hold of the other cables from the later phase 2? Thanks, Stan. Answer: Stan The unit you refer to is the knock sensor. It retards the ignition further if it ""hears"" pinking. It is debatable if you really need this unit at all. You can indeed splice a section of cable into the wire to lengthen it, the easier option is of course what you suggest to get the phase two wiring. you however do not need the knock sensor for the car to run.. |
| ID: 45 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Group A Carb Question: Not a question but feedback Re my earlier question on Grp A Carbs the problem has been solved. The 90 air corrector jet was in the enricher jet hole and the 120 enricher jet was in the air corrector jet hole. Swapping them over sorted the misfire. Problem is having fixed that and put the boost back to 14psi my clutch started to slip. Since it was Andy Cutler's advice (with acknoledgement to others mentioned last time)that cured the misfire and led to the slipping clutch (and therefore his fault) I have bought a Valeo clutch from him at GDI. Russell Thorpe Answer: I am sure Andy at GDI will be pleased that it was his fault that your car had more power.....! I must give him some more fairy dust.. Thanks for keeping in touch Russell |
| ID: 46 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: GDI? Question: Thanks wizard but who and where are GDI? I have looked thru the site and have not found them and directory enquiries have nothing under""GDI"" in Harlow. Regards, Tom Howell Answer: Tom Mark Fish Motorsport : 01279 431628 GDI : 07010 716 440 |
| ID: 47 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rejecting the carb. Question: Could you please explain the full process involved in rejeting the carb as from GT Tuning's instructions its seems like abit complicated. Cheers Roland? Answer: In short but I suggest a quick referal to the Haynes as well Remove carb from car. Take our main jet : accessable via 12mm float chamber drain (which is nearest the rocker cover) you will need a long flat head screw driver to unscrew it and then tip it out. Place with new main jet and just nip up the jet, do not force or over tighten. To change the air corrector. take the top off the carb. (6 flat head screws) lift of carfully, so as not to damage the gasekt and the float. the air screw faces into the main downdraught and is made of brass. you will need a good quaity flat head screw driver to remove the air corrector as they are usually quite stiff. chage this for the smaller one which should be a ""90"" - reassemble making sure that the gasket is seated correctly on the loacting lugs. after assemble fit the carb and refit all the pipes. make sure you bleed the water syetm again and then get the mixture set to compensate for the new jets. |
| ID: 48 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil in the water Question: I recently changed the head gasket on my phase 2. Ever since then I am getting oil 'mayonaise' in the header/expansion tank. There is no overheating, no noticable loss of water, and definately no water in the oil. i.e no mayonaise in the rocker cover, no water/emulsion on the dip stick, no water in the bottom of the sump. I initialy thought that the oil that I was seeing in the water was a relic of the previous gasket problem that was slowly being washed out of the system, but I have flushed it many times (including with detergent) to no avail. Once flushed I have to do about 75 miles before the mayonaise re-appears. I guess that the source of the leak must be one of the following: 1. head gasket (again) between the rocker oil feed and the water galleries. 2. Radiator between the oil cooler and the water. 3. Turbo between the oil/water 4. cracked block 5. cracked head Any suggestions of either which of these is most likely or any other known routes? I am partricularly puzzled at the lack of water in the oil, I can see that when running the oil is at higher pressure than the water, but when the engine is stopped the oil pressure obviously drops straight away whilst the water pressure stays high until it cools? Answer: Simon My initial thought is a craked head.... Howver as I have experienced may times these problems are very difficult to find......! 1.. Get the compression checked with a leak test kit (Lex auto centers etc) 2.. Try some litmus paper (some garages have this facilty) - this will determin if you have fuel / oil / etc in the water 3.. Pressure test the water system and listen for leaks, when hot and cold... be carfull when doing this. did you check the head flatness when you changes the gasket. why did the gasket fail in the first place. are you sure you did not disturb the liner seals when you chaged the gasket. if you can let us know some of these answers then we can probably make a more accurate dignostic. good luck and my elves say hi |
| ID: 49 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gear lever mechanism Question: I have great difficulty in getting 1st gear.To get 1st gear I have to slam the lever to the left before pushing it up.If i dont do this it goes into 3rd instead of 1st.There is also alot of free play with the gear lever in and out of gear.The spring which goes onto the gear change rod from the underbody is missing but shouldnt cause all this grief. What do you reckon the problem is and where can i buy the parts cheaply from? Answer: Wizards eh... who'd ave em..... I need a holiday...... Right I suggest that there is more than one thing here. 1.. The linkages are generally worn which will make gear selection hard 2.. The connecting rod (that connectes the box to the lever) is rotated or slightly bent. It only needs to be a bit out to cause problems, and if you have a worn linkage then it will make it worse. The first fix is to get you and a mate to try bending the lever. Basiclly whilst holding the lever try and bend the rod slightly**** in the opposite direction to which the lever will more into gear well. i.e. in this case bend towards 1st gear... only a little though. if not that then check the actual bushes on the box end for play and security. good luck and let us know how you get on |
| ID: 50 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Modifications Question: I have recently acquired a GT Turbo and want to increase the power. It has a full stainless Scorpion exhaust, re-jetted carb and in-car adjustable boost. As the car came with a full Renault service history I have just had it serviced at my local dealer and then rolling road tuned at a local performance tuner who pointed out to me that the turbo was smoking slightly, but will probably last another 6 months. The mileage is 65k (recorded). Please can you suggest what mods are best, I have around £1500 to spend Thanks Answer: Hmmmmm First make sure that the cooling system is A1..... NB I would then suggest as the turbo is on the way out a Hybrid, (call round the tuners for prices) I believe on of the tuners is having a sale at the moment... Allow about £850 for a really good hybrid. An Ally intercooler is a good idea (however we have proof that a standard intercooler has recently produced over 190bhp - strapped and flowed of course) If you have a big hybrid then a Grp A carb is necessary. If you go for over 22psi of boost then a Grp A head gasket and wire ringed liners is also a good idea to keep the boost in There is a start anyway.... best of luck and keep teh power cool. My saying of the day is ""Power is nothing without control"" |
| ID: 51 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Group 'A' Carbs Question: Hello Wizard. Just a quick question, but what makes a group 'A' carb a group 'A' carb? What procedure does the tuner use to make a standard carb into a group 'A'? Is it simply just gas flowed with a larger venturi? Or is there some special tricks that can be done, that we don't know about? Thanks a lot for your help!!! Answer: My book of tuning tricks and Wiz-kidz tell me that it is more involved in that. Call one of the tuners that advertise in the wastegate and I'm sure that they will talk you through the process. They will also be able to supply you with the parts if you want to build it yourself. |
| ID: 52 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Car Backfiring and Stuttering Question: When full boost is gained i usally get a back fire around about 4000rpm, I have checked all hoses fitments and the carbs tightly onto the inlet manifold, i run between 9.5 an 16 psi on a 135 carb jet and am running splitfires. any ideas wizard ?? cheers ben Answer: Hmmmmmm. Well first of all change the plugs to NGK B8EV, these have proven results. I suesst check the fuel filter for blockages, if in doubt change it. £12 approx Make sure the Dizzy cap and rotor arm are perfect, as they tend to wear eaily. Then check things like your accelorator pump jets etc for blockages. My first thought is with the ignition system though. If all else fails I will let you have some wizard dust. Best of luck old chap |
| ID: 53 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Handbrake Question: Hi Ever since I brought my R5 GTT (Phase II E-Reg) the handbrake hasn't worked properly. For a year it worked well enough to pass the MOT but on the next MOT I had to get it fixed. I had the disks, pads, calipers, cables all changed. It passed the MOT but it still isn't working properly. It only just holds the car on a hill. Have you got any suggestions or are most R5's like this??? Answer: Matthew, you are suffering from a typlical piece of poor design The gt hand brake as you know works on the disk. It is hard for it to get much force to press hard enough to grip well. Unlike many other cars thats handbrake works on a drum, which is much better when no heat is involved. The handbrake should be able to hold the car reasonably well, particulary as all the componets are new....! I have to admit to being a little stumped, all I can suggest is making sure the cables are adjusted well.... and .....ummmmm (time for a new training course) Good luck |
| ID: 54 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cooling Question: I have recently flushed and refilled my cooling system and fitted a new cooling fan switch and relay.Unfortunately the cooling fan now does not work but the anti perc fan does,not being an auto electrician i dont know what to look at next,any ideas. Answer: Ah the dreaded Renault wiring gremlins my friend...... Firstly ensure that your cooling system is properly bled or water will not circulate to the radiator. This will also happen if your thermostat in the top hose is not working properly. The circuit in question is very simple and completely seperate from the perc fan system. A feed comes from the positive terminal of the alternator and goes to the fan switch, and then out of the switch to the relay. The relay then switches another live feed from the alternator to the fan motor. I suggest you check where the circuit is and isnt working with a voltmeter and this will show up your problem...... Happy wiring |
| ID: 55 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: DRIVESHAFT Question: I need to fit a new right hand side drive shaft, whats involved in fitting and removal is there any special tools needed.Iam hoping to get one from the scrappies.do R5 turbos use the same shafts as other 5s. Answer: Ah a driveshaft on a budget. You will need to use a turbo driveshaft and the only 'special tool' that you need other than a wizards wand, is a 5mm paralell punch to drive out a roll pin that secures the end of the driveshaft to the gearbox. there is also a smaller 2mm pin within this that you will need to remove first. Drive these out my friend and your on the road to success! |
| ID: 56 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil in the water II Question: Thaanks for the response, some further details... 1. Ive changed the radiator, no change to the mayo, but now typicaly runs at 1/8 -1/4 on temp guage (no thermostat fitted) rather than 1/4 - 1/3. 2. No I didn't check the head for warp. I know... I will hang my head in shame for the next year. I used a decent mellior gasket though. I bought the car with a known overheating problem and was told that the gasket had been changed a few weeks before, + skimmed + crack tested. When I took the head off I found that the head nuts were all hand tight i.e it had never been torqued down. When I found the loose nuts I assumed that I had found the problem... 3. I am certain that I didn't disturb the liner seals, but the previous bodger may have. I would have thought that If the problem was at the bottom of the liners I would get water in the oil as well? I suppose a flexible seal could form a one way flap valve? 4. I see no water in the oil on the dipstick, and I tried draining a little cold, undisturbed sump oil into a jar + letting it settle for a week. No water. 5. I have tried getting the engine hot, then stoping the engine and listening for leaks, but can't hear anything 6. The engine is running 20psi boost and does not have wire rings (is this the same as Wills rings?). No sign of steam in the exhaust, No substantial water loss, dry spark plugs. Hello to your helpers, sorry I'm using mobil 1, they would probrably prefer casTROLL. Answer: I told you that these things are a puzzle.... If the head wasn't bolted down properly, it would be more prone to warp. As you have replaced the radiator, the chances are it is the head either being warped or cracked. If your breather system is working, there is no pressure in the sump, so the liner seals would only cause water to fall into the oil, which would settle to the base of the sump overnight. Therefore it would show up if you remove the sump plug. Pressure testing is done using a special kit that blows up a baloon in the expanion tank, and testing the system for retention of water pressure. You can take the risk and change the head gasket again and have the head inspected for warp/cracks, or get your car along to a tuner to have a look at for a second opinion. Unfortunately this is an expensive fault to cure as disassembly is often required to diagnose it. In the past even the blocks have been known to warp! As for my helpers, you don't want to know what casTROLL is made from!! Good luck! |
| ID: 57 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starting Question: Hi, I hope u can help cause my car is starting 2 feel embarressing everytime I start it up in public. The problem is that when u start it u obviously give it some gas, it fires up and the revs jump up to 2000, this is fine by me cause obviously I have my foot on the accelerator but as soon as it starts there it a very loud noise, sounds abit lit dragging a cheese grater down a metal bar.... it is quite embarressing, do you have any ideas on what this could be. Thanx Dave H Answer: I have asked my trolls about this one and they seem to think that your starter is still turning after the engine has started. It may be a sticky solenoid keeping your starter motor engaged on the flywheel. I will have to magic up a cheese grater and a metal rod so I can repoduce your cars sound to be sure, but you could test this theory by bump starting the car to see if the noise still happens. |
| ID: 58 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gp A Carb Question: 1 more question, I have a standard 5 but my Carb is leaking petrol, what problems would this cause? also how urgent would you say it way to get another one? If I get another I was thinking getting a Group A carb, but my friend said I should not get 1 as my car is standard, what should I do? Lots of respect if u can answer the question. Thanx, Dave Answer: I think that the biggest problem that this will cause is a FIRE! You should be able to get your carburettor serviced by any of the companies that advertise with the owners club. ***Do not drive the car until it is fixed as the carburettor sits above the hot exhaust manifolds.*** It is not advantageous to have a group A carb on a standard car, so save your pennies my friend and spend them wisely on improving your cars performance in another way. |
| ID: 59 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CLUTCH CABLE Question: Hi TW, I own a D reg phase 1. On Sat. the clutch cable snapped. I was unable to get a Renault one as they weren't open, so I got hold a third party replacement. Side by side they looked identical. After fitting the new cable and self adjuster, I am now unable to get reverse and first gear, I can get fisrt if the car is rolling or by switching the engine off. Have I damaged my gearbox, or is the clutch had it. Thanks for ant help you can offer. Stephen Answer: My elves and trolls have been down the yellowbrick road many times to all of the stores to find clutch cables that fit properly. If you buy one from Renault, there is only one type and it fits perfectly every time. If you buy one from anywhere else there is a choice of two and they never fit! I suspect that your problem is the cable. Try one from Renault and if it works get a refund for the other one. |
| ID: 60 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: White smoke Question: Dear Turbo Wizard, I have a 1990 H-reg GT Turbo. On start up there is no smoke and the car runs just fine. However, when the car has warmed up and I come to stop at traffic lights, a large cloud of white smoke is emmitted approximately 5 seconds after being stationary. The turbo was replaced with a reconditioned one in Jan last year by Five Alive. The problem has only just started this summer and the temperature gauge isn't working, is it overheating? Also I have noticed a kinked oil return pipe (the one underneath the turbo) which is covered in oil alond with the gearbox and all the wires on the heatsheild sensor have burnt off. The car has only done 60.000 miles now and was recently rolling roaded at TDI having 126 bhp @ the wheels on standard boost with only a dump valve and scorpion exhaust so the engine must be in good condition. Any ideas??? p.s: sorry about the length. Answer: Oh dear, get your temperature guage working my friend. The white smoke that you are referring to is steam. There is a very good chance that your engine has overheated and the headgasket may have blown. However you said in your other posting that it smells of oil, so if the smoke is actually pale blue, it is caused by oil burning. This may be because the turbo has died again. A kinked oil return pipe below it will reduce the oil flow through the turbo and its bearings will not be lubricated properly. I suggest yu take your car to a tuner, so that they can cast their eye over your car! If you have any more clues maybe I can wave my magic wand a little more! |
| ID: 61 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Radiator Question: I have a water leaking and presuming the worst I am expecting it to be the Radiator, attempting to remove the old rad yesterday Ii gave up just by looking at it, I know the best place to start would be to remove all the hoses etc... but there is some metal bars which run into the side of the rad and look like they would break if I touched them, (very rusty) what proceedure should I use to remover the Radiator. Thanx allot Answer: I have had to wave my wand over many radiators. The easiest way is to remove the bonnet, which gives you a lot more room to work with. The rusty pipes are oil feed and return pipes that go into the oil cooler on the radiator. The oil cooler forms part of the radiator and to remove the pipes you simply unscrew them using a 17mm spanner. As well as the water hoses there are electrical connectors that you will need to remove that feed the fan and fan switch. Then pull back the metal spring at the top of the radiator and lift the radiator out of the car. Good luck my friend!! |