| ID: 2177 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sandwich plate Question: wiz i'm in the middle of re fitting a aftermarket oil cooler. the shop i'm getting the new stat plate from need to know the thread size of the oil filter. it's either 18,20 or 22mm do you know which one it is please. Answer: 20mm. |
| ID: 2178 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Anti-perc 2 Question: Wiz, found the anti perc fan and it doesnt seem to be working, whats the best thing to do ? Answer: have you connected it straight to a battery? if it still doesn't work the it maybe time to remove it and strip it down....clean the commutator, and see it the brushes are ok...if these are ok, then there should really be no reason why it don't work. you can buy them from ECP/GSF/Tuners/Second hand if you decide to give it up as a bad job..... |
| ID: 2179 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb Jets Question: Wiz, When bleed valve is fully screwed out im runnin bout 16-18psi, but at the moment Im runnin standard carb jets! I was abit worried about the car runnin lean at the top end, have I got any reason to worry? Headgasket etc? If so what size jets would u recommend? What price? Where 2 get them? And how easy r they to fit? Sorry 4 the long question, Cheers m8. Answer: if you boost it too high, without extra fuel, then you will blow the headgasket. There are two options (very cheap...) 1)you can swap the 100 air corrector with the 125 enrichner jet. 2)you can drill out the main jet to around a 130-135. It advisable to remove the carb from the car if attempting the first method. the second method involves taking the main jet out, drilling it and putting it back in. both achieve similar results. |
| ID: 2180 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electrical Gremilins Question: Wotcha Wizard, I've just replaced the rear hatch with a 2nd hand one and I’m having some fun with the electrics! I suspect that the root of the problem is the rear screen wiper. I’ve used all the wiring, lamps and lamp holders and from the old hatch which worked fine, the rear screen (and its heating elements) are 2nd hand. Now the rear screen wiper doesn’t budge, and when it is connected to the wiring loom the number plate lights and the dash lamp for the rear screen heated are on all the time when the ignition is on. When the wiper is disconnected all the other electrics work fine. Can I find out if the wiper motor is broken, by measuring the resistance across the connector? Everything appears to be getting the right voltages and the fuses are good. Ta, Nick Answer: can't you just connect the battery straight across it? if it moves, its ok, then suspect the wiring. if it don't move, bin it and get another! |
| ID: 2181 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Eratic Idle Question: Have had rolling road tune done about 6 months ago. Also replaced the plugs and leads 3 months ago. this is in reply to my recent question regarding ""Eratic Idle"" Answer: Remove the plugs and have a look at them now. Get back to me. |
| ID: 2182 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Help..... Question: well this is not so much as a question, but a respont to the problem i had.................i let the car run for awhile and noticed it started to p*ss water out of the right hand side again.........so i turned the car off and let it cool down..........i then looked in the general area of where the steam was coming from and discovered a big hole in the hose going to the heater matrix.........apparently the hose was knocking against the fan belt and cut through it.............the problem i have now, is that i can't seem to get the same hose from any where.........what is the size?....i think its a 18mm or 19mm.....but i aint sure Answer: the problem with most renault water hoses is that they are pre-bent and that they have ends of differing diameters on each pipe! if you are intent on getting a new pipe, then the renault dealer is really the only place. you could always get some metal pipe from a local DIY place and 'bodge it' back together..... |
| ID: 2183 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: I need help on these problems too.... Question: thanx for answering my question before.......but i need some help and advise on these..... 1) the fan that is used for heating does not work right.......it some times comes on, but then goes off if i hit a bump......i think its got a doggy wire but where do you start to look? 2) i have a simular problem to one of the others they asked you.........when i start my car (this could be on a hot or warm day) it some times dies on me....i turn it on and let it idle without touching the accelarator.....the rev counter reads it almost below the 0.....then it cuts out.......even when i start to pull off its very jerky and sometimes stalls........if i use the choke its ok......or if i let it run for about 2 minutes, its ok..........but a mate of mine that owns a 5 said that it aint normal cuz you don't need the choke on during warm days....and his starts fine 3) and finally, i bet you get alot of these.......but my speedo doesn't work. i tried another one and the same......do you think it could be the speedo cable.....if so.....where do you find it as i can't see it anywhere THANX FOR YOUR HELP AS YOUR A STAR Answer: 1) sounds most likely that the actual fan terminals have become corroded. best to remove the fan unit via the scuttle tray, and then clean the terminals with sandpaper. If this isn't the problem, hope that it isn't a knackered rheostat...as to change this is a dash out job..... 2)In most cases each 5 GT is different to the next. I've found that some with cams and other work done to them take longer to start, cold and hot! From cold, like most cars they need to warm up slightly, then they don't die on you. from warm its just a case of evaporated fuel, which is soon remedied, once you start to crank the car over......eventually ;-) 3) the speedo is actually electronic. look for a grey wire in the engine bay, going over the top of the gearbox. there is a connection halfway along its length, which is clipped onto the side of the passenger side shock tower! clean this up....maybe test continuity down the length of the wire...the actual place the speedo reads from is under the starter motor. a little unit is held into the gearbox by an allen key... could be this is knackered... |
| ID: 2184 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ignition Question: hello again....i bet your getting sick of hearing from me.....and this makes my 5 sound like a shed...lol.....but i remembered something i forgot........i have recently noticed when i start my car it takes a few seconds to start...ie...takes a while for the spark plugs to ignite.(like a few turns)........the thing is i recently changed the HT leads with magnicore ones and the spark plugs aswell........although i have to admit they are standard spark plugs and not the NGK ones everyone uses.......what do you think it could be?...... Answer: get yerself some NGK ones asap.....your 'normal ones' will probably be getting knackered as they arent built for turbo use! |
| ID: 2185 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: timing sensor Question: Is it possible to fit a timing sensor from a phase 2 on my phase 1. Answer: Yes but the cable is longer so make sure it stays away from the turbo. |
| ID: 2186 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: videos Question: do yo know anywhere where i can get videos of the reno turbo cup racing Answer: Nope! Sorry. Try a search on an engine like google or similar. |
| ID: 2187 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Single wiper Question: I wonder how you could make a single wiper without moving the hole and how the linkage should be Answer: You could just remove the linkage to the second hole and block it but this leaves it offcentre and doesn't look as good. You can use the wiper motor from an uno turbo but the wiring needs to be sorted as it isn't a direct fit. |
| ID: 2188 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gear box again Question: wiz, ive just had a e/parts gp n clutch fitted also new gen. ren clutch cable.To rectify bad gear engagement,seemed better at first but seems to be getting worse crunching and notchey, mainly changing down gears but its better if you drive really slow.any idea coz this is the second box ive had and the same happened with the other.Thanx add Answer: Sounds like the clutch pedal needs adjusting, try moving the top of the clutch pedal by hand. Failing that, i'd speak to EP, and see what they suggest..... |
| ID: 2189 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: perc & sensors Question: wiz, you dont happen to know how the perc and sensors are wired ,as my turbo sensor fell on the manifold and shorted the lot out (melted all the cables back towards the alternator).thanx add Answer: The positive is taken direct from the alternator via the sensor to the perc fan relay. |
| ID: 2190 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boosting? Question: dear wizard, when i drive my car the turbo doesnt seem to boost like it should,it kicks in at around 2000rpm like normal, but when it reaches just over 3000rpm it doesnt kick you into the seat,it just carrys on,still with the turbo spinning but no kick.also, the car smokes quite badly when i shut off the accelarator but the guy i bought it off says its oil in the zorst,cos the turbo blew up and had to be replaced. any ideas?? cheers,paki. p.s the engine is going for a rebuild soon. Answer: The oil in the exhaust should have all burned out after a couple of good runs so it shouldn't be that. It could be down to the turbo seals, valve stem seals or maybe ring wear. Get a compression check to see if it is the engine rather than the turbo. |
| ID: 2192 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Water vapour Question: Mr.Wizard, I hope you can help. I have seen the other questions and answers regarding similair questions, but none that answer mine. i have recently re-built most of the engine, except for the rings and liners etc as they had been replaced a few thousand miles ago by the previous owner (the bores still looked quite scored). I have just fitted a brand new turbo (GT Tuning HE5C) which seems fine (no oil or water leeks etc + no oil in hoses). The problem is that i seem to have excessive amounts of vapor coming out the exhaust. it started as just a small amount and seems to have increased. It is apparent on tickover and now seems to be worse. It dissapears under load and puffs out - reduces and then returns on de-acceleration. I have checked every possible avenue that i can think of. Compression is 100:100:100:97. no oil in the water, no water in the oil, no mayonnaise nothing. the only thing that i had changed before it got worse, was to fiddle with the carburretion/CO2 mixture (the carb has been apart, cleaned and re-assembled) as it hasn't been tuned since re-assembly. have you got any ideas before i feed a pipe from the exhaust into the car etc, etc. thank you very much. regards, Darren Bayliss. P.S. i have changed the boost circuit to the cup spec. Answer: I would say to check that the carb is not loose or the base isn't warped or cracked and letting water in from the cooling system. |
| ID: 2193 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rev up Question: when my car is ticking over it is fine when i rev it , it missfires if i hold it at about 3000 revs it is fine any ideas what is up with it ? thanks Answer: Check through all the ignition componants one by one by either cleaning them or replacing them if they look even remotely worn. |
| ID: 2194 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: help Question: my anti percolation system dosent work all the time does it have to and what could be wrong with it Answer: The anti perc system runs when the sensors on the carb and/or turbo tell it to. It is normal to not be on all the time. |
| ID: 2195 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: central locking Question: My central locking has never worked and i am trying to sort it, i thought the problem lay with the interface in the roof so i bought it from renault still no joy. I have had the wiring tested and everything was ok, i have tested the motors with a positive and negitive current out of the car and both sides go up and down, what else could it be? Do these have a relay and could it be that, if so which one is it and how many pins does it have. I hope you can help this is costing money now. Answer: You say you have replaced the roof sensor but what about the remotes? Some people have had problems with these which have turned out to be due to flat batteries. You may also need the remote and sensor matching for frequency. |
| ID: 2196 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: A Question: Hiya Fella, When my GT is at operating temp, it starts making a clattering, rattling noise. It sounds like its coming from near the carb and by the side of the water pump. The pumps been changed so i dont think its that. Can u help cos it sounds like a diesel when i just potter about in traffic !!! Also, when i accelerate, about 2/3 throttle, when i reach about 40-50 in third the cars seems to rev a lot, turbo spins madly, but not get any faster until i change gear ? Is that a fuelling issue or just a MASSiF flat spot ? Answer: The clattering noise could be something to do with the tappet clearances, camshaft, cam followers or timing chain so get it looked at properly. It sounds a bit like your clutch is on its way out if the car is revving with no acceleration. |
| ID: 2197 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil in expansion tank Question: ive put a breather filter on put still get oil in expansion tank plus took turbo off and found burnt oil at the bottem were the smoke was coming from by the seal what shall i do Answer: I would say to get it reconned. |
| ID: 2198 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Feul tank leak.. Question: Hello oh wise wizard  )Can you help.. my 5's fuel tank has developed a leak, it looks to be coming from the seal/ bung type thing on the tank itself and dripping down etc.. is this a common problem, and is it easy to sort.. (fairly cheaply), and am i right in thinking it will fail an MOT if its leaking? sorry for so many questions.. Help muchos appreciated Kt Answer: This is a very common fault but it is not easy to fix without removing the tank. You may be able to find somewhere that sells a sort of repair kit for plastic tanks but i don't know of any off hand. It will fail the MOT but you can get round this temporarily by keeping the fuel level low and cleaning the tank before the MOT. |
| ID: 2199 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil sensor Question: need help need to no what colour wire goes to the oil sensor the one on the block Answer: orange and brown i think. (Can't find my wiring diagrams) |
| ID: 2200 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: faulty speedo Question: I have just got my r5 back on the road after 1 year of storage. The problem is, the speedo does not tell the correct speed, about 35 when it is at least sixty, and 85 is the most it will register, and it is well above 100 in reality! Any ideas? Cheers Arran Answer: Try the connections of the speedo wiring from the gearbox to the engine bay (near airbox) and this lead to the back of the speedo before writting the speedo itself off. |
| ID: 2201 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: incar bleed valve Question: Hi i have had an in car bleed valve for a while now i fitted it myself, it consists of a valve with 3 ports the 1 coming out the middle is connected to a pipe going to the engine bay and the 2 on either side of it are connected to the pipe leading from the actuator to the carb, the one closest to the front of the car but when the valve is shut i get 14 psi and when it is open to the extent that the nob is going to fall off the highest i get is 16psi. I have a stage 2 hybrid from ktec is a better actuator needed cuz i want more boost cheers.. Answer: I would say that you need a restrictor in the pipe after the ""T"" to help direct the flow through the valve. The smaller the restiction the more boost you will be able to bleed off. |
| ID: 2202 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Juderring Question: On my way to work this morinin after letting my car warm up at home doin approx 30mph my 5 started to juder. And when i pulled up at lights and slowed down to stop various times she stalled. Also when arriving to work i tried to start her again and she started but wouldnt tick over, what could be the problem. Cheers Answer: Sounds like you may have a loose or missing idle mixture screw. |
| ID: 2203 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Torsion Bars Question: Hi, I have lowered the torsion bar to a decent ride height, but reading other peoples questions I would like to know if you need to remove both bars to lower properly or only one side. I only removed one bar to drop it. Will ths affect the handling? Sorry for the epic length of this question! Phill Answer: You should remove one for each side. |
| ID: 2204 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Knocking when accelerating Question: Hi, my 5 when accelerating knocks From the passenger side front suspension area. The knocking is worse when at low revs and with your foot to the floor. Any idea's? Answer: Could be a suspension componant or drive shaft problem. |
| ID: 2205 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Struts? Question: Are Phase 1 struts the same as Phase 2 struts? If not what is the difference? If they are different can Phase 1 struts be helped to fit a Phase 2? Ta  Answer: The top mounts are different so the strut is at a different angle. Not sure but i think the shocks are different too. You can fit them to either model but not sure about handling effects after. |
| ID: 2206 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: in car boost Question: hi wiz can you please tell me exactly how to fit an in car bleed valve and where to put the restrictor and what to use for one and how big a hole should be in it cheers keith Answer: Lets start at the beggining. The restrictor can be made up from a piece of steel or alloy bar. The hole size is your choice depending on max boost required. The smaller the hole, the more boost you will be able to bleed off. Fitting 1) Cut the frontmost actuator pipe and fit a ""T"" piece. 2) Place the restrictor in the pipe nearest the carb. 3) Run the pipe from the ""T"" piece to the in car adjuster and the return pipe to the engine bay to prevent fumes in the car. 4) Test and enjoy! |
| ID: 2208 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: AMAL VALVE Question: WHAT IS THE AMAL VALVES JOB AND IS THERE ANY ADVANTAGES BY REMOVING IT ?????????????? Answer: What amal valve? |