| ID: 2053 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Controller Question: i recently bought my 5 turbo and found a boost adjusting knob inside, a friend has one similar but it just has one exit and one entrance for the pressure whereas mine has three, two in line and one at 90 degrees to the others underneath with a screw type fitting on the top to adjust the boost. where should i fit this because i tried it in place of a t piece next to the carb inlet elbow where a hose exits the elbow but it didnt seem to do much. is it possible this is an in-car adjustable valve and ill need to get some hosing, if so which hoses do i connect it to from under the bonnet Answer: You need to fit it inline in the frontmost actuator hose. You use the third outlet as the exhaust. You can either fit it under the bonnet or extend the pipes to fit it in the dash. |
| ID: 2054 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No Spark..... Question: Driving along after replacing the engine, when 'POOF'- one of the plugs, which wasn't screwed well enough in comes flying out..leaving the car firing on three... After pulling over to re-fit the plug, I go to turn it over- it starts, then the revs drop right off despite however much I revved it. Now, today there seems to be no spark whatsoever- and it won't start. Help please!!! Any suggestions- or in fact anyone who wants to come down and either a) fix it for us or b) scrap it for us will be gratefully recieved..... ((I was joking about the scrapping part- I love it really.......  )Answer: I would check out the relay next to the ignition module under the plastic panel as it could be faulty. |
| ID: 2055 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Motor for Boot Release Question: Hi Wizard, I've just had a Clifford installed and want to use the boot release feature which is activated from the remote control. However, apparently you need a motor to wire it up to for the boot release and the Renault 5 doesn't have one. Doyou know where I can get a motor? Thanks Gareth Answer: Try something like a fiesta. |
| ID: 2056 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: removing starter Question: my starter mowta's nailed, i think it needs a strip and lubrication, please can you provide me with an idiots guide to removal and refitting. If i'm being totally honest i dont even know whereabouts in the bay it is! help apprecitated as always jon0 Answer: 1) Disconnect the battery. 2) Look above the drivers side driveshaft. 3) Working from underneath, remove the heatshield, wiring connections, mounting bolts and finally the starter itself. 4) Refitting is the reverse of removal. lol! |
| ID: 2057 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: exhaust spec Question: sorry for being cheeky and asking two question today wiz. I'm gettin a custom exhaust built to exit via two pipes in the centre of a k-tec bumper, similar to thier purple demo car. My qustion is what specification should i give for maximum performance and most desirable noise. I.E, what bore pipe, any silencers, boxes? Any other tips regarding location of pipes underneath the car etc? Answer: I would say to choose the silencers (if any) you like and build the rest around them. You will need to remove the spare wheel and its cage. If you have a high spec then use either 2 1/4"" or 2 1/2"" diameter pipe. |
| ID: 2058 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: power Question: Dear Wizard, I have an uprated turbo, cant tell u much more than it has cut back blades that are sposed to help it spin faster, I have rejetted standard carb aswell, I am running slightly more than standard boost, cant tell u precise amount it up to the start of the red line on the standard boost gauge, when on the motorway, if I only part floor the accelerator, ie half the way down the car seems to accelerate a gr8 deal quicker then if I just bang it down to the floor, it also seems much better if I ease it down quite slowly, the clutch is new and is not slippin, and the turbo spins up quickly, do u have any idea why this is, it feels as thought thre is more power available but somethings not right?? Answer: This is a stange one, I would say to get the accellerator pump checked out as it may be inoperative causing a flatspot under a heavy foot. |
| ID: 2059 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Heater Fan Plastic Cowling Question: Does renault or any other company still supply the black plastic cowling to stop the water going down into your heater fan? Cos everyone in the scrapyards are either damaged or missing! Answer: Renault do them for about £7 |
| ID: 2060 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Backfire Question: Wiz , I have a problem sometimes that when i am usually going up slight hills,say i drop it back from 4th to 3rd and floor it the car holds back like hell but slowly builds power then change back up to fourth i get quite a large backfire.any ideas what it could be.I'm running it about 15-17 psi.Also wiz, i have a scorpion full system and it 's straight through until the backbox,thinking the exaust was not loud enough i placed a straight pipe inside the backbox.sounds wicked now but i heard that having no back pressure is not good will this destroy my turbo,will this cause a problem,its a ktr 180 turbo. thanks loads wiz Answer: I have been told that some turbo's need backpressure for the seals to work properly but most good hybrids have better seals and are uneffected by this. If you are worried, speak to David at K-Tec for more advice on his turbo. As for your backfire, it is a hard one to diagnose but all i can say is that you must have some kind of restriction somewhere for this to happen. Try taking it to a tuner for more help. |
| ID: 2061 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Mixture settings Question: I own a standard 1.4 and was trying to increase fuel mixture last nite,i screwed it open and removed the airbox,and the carb was protected from dirt with cone..i tried running the car up and down the road but it is still no difference..i thot more fuel and air wud help a noticable bit..how do i get it right wiz Answer: If your engine needs more fuel and air then it will feel faster but if it was already running to the max then you will need to do more like a cam/headwork. |
| ID: 2063 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pump Question: My car was suffering a serious oil pressure problem (light on almost constantly) so to rule out the sender and gauge i connected an oil pressure gauge directly to the turbo feed pipe, still nothing. Since carrying out these tests i have removed the sump and oil pump, and was wondering if you could advice me on how to check the pump for wear Cheers Dave Answer: There should be a set gap between the gears and no wear on them. Look at the casing etc too as this shoul;d be free from wear. |
| ID: 2064 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bad starter Question: got any ideas on a bad starting 1.7? i have a GTX Ren5, 1.7. the problem is starting cold first thing in morning. with full choke, it revs only at 1000, and is very lumpy, feels like only 1 or 2 cylinders running, then after about 1-3 mins it will intermitently run smooth, before finally running fine. then it will run smooth after that all day. what's going on Answer: I would say that you have probably got worn or dirty plugs or dodgy leads. |
| ID: 2065 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bleedin valve Question: Just a quicky please, how would you describe as to be the best way to bleed the water system? I just fill it up and leave it on tick over to hopefully push out the air via the bleed screws. Also my screws seem to leek when the cars very hot would this be lettin air in? If so is it not safe to drive. Thanks Answer: Leaking screws can let air in so sort this first. Next, with the engine COLD, fill the system, hold the header tank above the rest of the cooling system and gravity should bleed the air out of the open bleed screws. When a constant air free stream comes from each screw then close it for a spot on bleed! |
| ID: 2066 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: RECON TURBO ???????? Question: IVE JUST BOUGHT A RECON TURBO BUT I HAVE NOTICED THAT THERE IS A CRACK IN THE EXHAUST HOUSING IN THE SAME PLACE AS THE OLD ONE. WHEN I SPOKE TO THE SUPPLIER HE SAID THEY ARE ALL LIKE THAT AND NOT TO WORRY BECAUSE IT HAS A YEARS WARRANTY. WHAT DO YOU THINK???????? Answer: Most GT turbos have this crack but i would say it was smoking before the warrenty runs out to get it replaced! |
| ID: 2067 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rad top hose Question: Hi, i've recently noticed that when the engine is reved at stand still, the top hose between the water pump and rad is sucking itself closed in the middle of the hose. This is worrying as when the cars under load it must almost close completely. Should this ever happen or should i fit new hoses ? Cheers Dave Answer: That is normal as the pump is stronger than the radiator can flow so water is sucked through. |
| ID: 2068 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lack of power Question: hi there, when i floor it in first trying to pull off, there is a delay in the delivery of power. any ideas? cheers Answer: Sounds like turbo lag! How long is this delay?> |
| ID: 2069 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Overfueling ???? Question: Mmmm where do i start. My car is blowing dark smoke when i boot it from the exhaust, am i just overfuelling alot and is only running 14psi on 47,000 standard engine and recently reconditoned standard turbo, standard carb. Does it need setting up properly at a tuners premises i.e. BB Tuning. Answer: It sounds like you have too large a main jet. Get it rolling roaded to check. |
| ID: 2070 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: too hot!!! Question: My fan wasnt working, i found that the problem was to do with relay change that and the fan ignition switch, after a couple of days the car keep getting really hot above 3/4 and top mark. I bleed the system properly, i look to see if head gasket gone but no oil on water or no water on the oil, so wot else could cause the problem?? Thanks for any help Answer: It could be a thermostat problem, try removing this to see. |
| ID: 2071 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turning the boost up. Question: I've got an 89 G with 69k miles. The cars got a FSH. I've recently had all the oil seals replaced, a grp A head-gasket fitted with the high tensile bolts and a group 'N' clutch from GTTuning. It has a fast-road piston dump-valve. I've also fitted Samco hoses throughout and a full Scorpion exhaust. Other than this the engine is standard. How safe would it be to turn the boost up, and how do I do it? Would the engine run lean? How much will this affect the performance? Answer: You could shorten the actuator arm to increase the boost to about 12-14psi (or 1/3 into the shaded area on the standard gauge) on standard jets but i would get it rolling roaded to be safe. |
| ID: 2072 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stutter...holdingback/kangrooing! Question: wiz, i have a small problem with my car , it has just recently had a full engine rebuild ,new turbo & ancillaries all run in for 1000 miles . been taken back to tuner and boost /service etc, car was driving spot on but a couple of days ago when going from 1st to 2nd i the car has developed a bad stutter! i had run the car low on fuel. obviously i have filled her up with optimax but the problem remain's? my fuel set up incorprates the bb tuning quad injector kit, could you point me in the right direction as to what maybe the problem as i don't really want to take the car all the way to bbtuning for a simple problem. any wise words would be appreciated . thanks michael . Answer: It could be that you have damaged something by running it low or it could be down to the injectors. I would suggest ringing Andy at BB and take it to him if needs be. |
| ID: 2073 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cutting Out Question: Hi Wiz, I have been having a bit of a problem lately. Whilst driving the 5 everynow and again it would just hesitate a bit, lose power and the engine would cut out. After leaving it a while and several atempts to start it, it always restarts and I am on my way again. this has happened at least 10 times over the last few times I have driven it. It has happened on the motorway, A roads and in traffic. Sometimes at constant speeds and sometimes under acceleration. Any ideas to what the problem might be ?? Fuel pump, Carb ?, electrical ? Answer: I would replace the fuel pump relay as this is a common problem and the symptoms fit perfectly. |
| ID: 2074 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: BIG BRAKES Question: wiz, Is there any chance you know where i could get some discs and calipers like Jamie Shaw has on his carisma R5, as there is no contact number. They are 330mm 40-spiral grooved discs with blue alloy bells, i take it they would be fine on 16s. Ta fella. Answer: Speak to the guys at Rally Design ( www.raldes.co.uk ) as they do a variety of discs and bells which may be suitable, as well as a 300mm disc kit which fits under 16's. |
| ID: 2075 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo time Question: hi wiz,shopping round for turbo at mo,after standard unit in keeping with rest of car.is a recon turbo a good idea,only covering about 3000 mls yr,what should i expect to pay and what else should be replaced at same time(oil feed pipe & non return,oil &filter?)thanx in advance Answer: A recon unit (or your turbo reconned) is fine as long as you go to a reputable firm. Expect about £200 upwards for a recon. You could fit a braided oil feed pipe or renew the old stuff if need be. Allways change oil and filter when fitting new turbo to be safe. |
| ID: 2076 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: charger to exhaust Question: wiz, is there a gasket of any sorts that goes between turbo and exhaust flanges ,secondly stamped on the turbo is the word research any ideas etc ,cheers Answer: I expect your turbo actually has AIResearch which is the name used on Garrett turbos. There is a gasket set available from Renault but they are generally not used by many people. |
| ID: 2077 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cutting out Question: hi wiz, my car keeps cutting out at start up when cold. it sounds coughs and splutters and i have to rev it really hard to keep it ticking over else it cuts out any ideas why this is cheers wiz Answer: I would say you have a choke problem or maybe a blocked idle jet, try removing and cleaning the idle jet. |
| ID: 2078 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: charge cooler Question: yo wiz what does a charge cooler do that a aluminium intercooler does not? is it better than a intercooler. cheers Answer: A charge cooler uses a water jacket around a core to cool the charge whereas an alloy intercooler just has air as the cooling medium. A chargecooler is probably better in stop start driving but a good intercooler is better on the open road when it has a constant air flow through it. |
| ID: 2079 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stuttering hesitation backfiring Question: got a problem with me mowta, i had it tuned a few weeks back and it was running like a dream............. until.............. i had a race with a scooby up to about 120-130mph really looking at the speedo. when i stopped the car the exhaust manifold was almost opaque!!!! since then it has been running worse and worse, starts fine and idles fine, drives off boost a bit hesitant, low to medium boost even more hesitant and pops and ever so often runs like a sparker is nackered. yet on full boost its only a bit hesitant if not fine, seems a bit slower than normal aswell. and just to throw another spanner into the works it doesnt do it all the time when the engine is cool, when the engine is hot it does it most of the time. it also runs like it on 3 cylinders at times aswell. right, now, i am running 1bar @ manifold on a standard blower, boost pipes are quite oily, but havent checked the breather system yet. oil is a bit black but not too bad. sparkers are a bit oily but again not too bad. virtually no smoke from the exhaust even on full chat. could the cause of my problem be that on boost oil is seeping past the turbo seals and in the cylinder and stopping the fuel burning properly. Please help, this car is doing my head in now. i am soooo close to selling it if much more goes wrong!!! Answer: Firstly take a slap on the wrist for stopping the car without leaving it to cool down first! I would say the heat has damaged the turbo seals and your plugs are oiling up as a result. Try new plugs and if it runs fine then i would say that it is then time for a new turbo seal. |
| ID: 2080 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Choke Question: When starting the 5 from cold, the choke does not seem to do anything. Now starting it i have to press the accelerator slightly for about 5 minutes otherwise it stalls. Have you got any ideas what the problem is. Everything seems to work ok. ie the cable moves the the thing on the carb. Answer: It is possible that the choke flap is stuck in the carb, take the carb top off and check. It could just be that you need to up the idle screw a little. |
| ID: 2081 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clutch arm Question: how do i change the clutch arm?? do i need to take the bottom end apart or split the box or can i get away wiv doing it an easier way?? how do i do it?? Answer: You need to remove the gearbox to gain access. |
| ID: 2082 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Highering Question: Wiz, can you tell me the best way to raise the back of my 5 as the article is a bit vage.Ive tried doing just one side as limited room,pulled the splines out pushed the brake disk down about an inch then knocked the splines of the torsion bar back in but the level remained the same can you help adam Answer: You need to make sure the splines stay in the trailing arm whilst they come out of the inner block otherwise it will not make any difference. You may also need to take the trailing arm further than the actual amount to allow for play. |
| ID: 2083 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!! Question: wizard, this is important as i close to smashing my car with a hammer, plug no 1 has crossthreaded, the plug only goes in 3/4 of the way in and looks at the wrong angle, will the car work like this, if so i take it drive it like a granny how the hell do i fix this problem, surely a helicoil or something, i dunno, would most garages tackle this problem and how much you reckon it would cost, please reply ASAP as my hands hurt from smacking the s*** out of the concrete, yes you can tell i'm annoyed by this question Answer: You could get a helicoil fitted or some other type of rethreading carried out. It is a simple job that any decent garage should be able to do for about £20. |