| ID: 1775 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: valves Question: mr wiz its all gone pete tong,took my car to be rolling roaded to find it has 2 engine mounts snapped but the main worry is that the valve compressions were uneven and he done a test on it and sed that most of the leakage was coming from the valves so obviously theres a prob there but how do i go about fixing it?? the heads been skimmed 2 times as far as i know and its got a comp gasket on it,so how do i deal with the valves, am i in the shit?? Answer: To sort the valves out you need to grind them into the valve seats again. This will involve taking the head off and taking the valves out(+ checking them thoroughly). Get some grinding paste and 'lap' the little buggers back in...as told by that fabled character 'Mr Haynes and his mighty manual. refitting is the reverse of removal *lol* |
| ID: 1776 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 17"" WHEELS Question: IVE HEARD SO MANY DIFFERENT OPINIONS I DONT KNOW WHICH 1 2 GO WITH, DO YOU REALLY NEED 2 MODIFY ANYTHING 2 FIT 17's, MY BUMPERS ARENT A PROB COS I HAVE AFTERMARKET ONES, HELP ME IN THE CHEAPEST WAY. AND ALSO IN WHICH WAY WILL THEY AFFECT THE SPEEDO.. CHEERS Answer: You need to trim the arches and the rear bumper to fit 17's on. Isn't there a guide in 'maintenance section' on how to fit these? if you fit them, you will end up going faster than your speedo is telling you.....just what Mr Gatso loves :-( |
| ID: 1777 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Battery Question: On returning from a trip today I pulled off a roundabout and accelerated hard. The battery light came on and there was a smell in the cockpit. I stopped and opened the bonnet to find nothing wrong. The car was idling a bit lower while the light was on. (I have recently installed the 'Discarnect' battery immobiliser from Richbrook which is simply a nut which tightens to connect or loosens to disconnect the neg. battery terminal for ease.) Am I right in saying that if the battery was slightly disconnected that the battery light would come on? What do you think the smell was? It was not my pants as I stayed cool even though there was no hard shoulder! Answer: I expect you have a poor connection and the smell was due to the terminal getting hot. |
| ID: 1778 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: DIY Grp A Carb (cont.2) Question: I require your advice once again o learned 1!! I wonder if u know whether a 135 mainjet will still be a bit too rich for a 28mm venturi. Coz I've heard they make bigger jets than that! I'm about to get the smaller air corrector like u sed but is there anything Else I need 2 change? Also wots the difference between the Grp ""N"" carb and Grp ""A"" carb???? Cheerz Wiz!!! keep up the good work! Answer: i doubt a 135 main jet will be too rich for a 28mm venturi. It really depends on what boost you want to run! if in doubt, get it set up on some rollers, as you'll know for sure then :-) |
| ID: 1779 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: DODGY IDLE Question: HELLO, SINCE BUYING MY 2ND TURBO 2 YEARS AGO I HAVE HAD AN ONGOING PROBLEM, MAINLY WHEN ITS COLD FROM STARTUP.MAINLY IN THE WINTER OR 1ST THING IN THE MORNING I START THE CAR, AND IT STARTS FINE, BUT THEN AFTER A FEW MINUTES, ITS START IDLING REALLY WEIRD, TRYING TO CUT OUT, SO I PULL THE CHOKE A REALLY SMALL AMOUNT, AND THEN IT REVS LIKE MAD, SO I PUT IT IN A BIT MORE AND THEN IT CUTS OUT. IT NEVER AGAIN AFTER THE FIRST START, I HAVE CHANGED THE PLUGS, CLEANED THE AIRFILTER(J&R BOLT ON ONE), CLEANED THE CARB, BUT I STILL CANT WORK IT OUT. IT SO BAD THAT SMETIMES WHEN I PULL THE CHOKE OUT FULL, THE CAR IS STILL ONLY JUST MANAGING TO IDLE (BADLY), AND A BIT OF BLACK SMOKE EXISTS FROM THE EXHAUST, ANYWAY ANY ADVICE MUCH APPRECIATED. THANKS Answer: Clean the carburettor out. Firstly check that the idle jet (big brass screw) isn't blocked. it might even be worthwhile fitting a new diaphragm kit to the carb. Also check that the vacuum hose to the base of the carb isn't cracked/holed etc etc |
| ID: 1780 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: IRRATIC IDLE Question: Hi Wiz, Got a problem with my idle,had it since ive owned the car. When I rev it it sits at 2K revs for a bit before settling. It does it when driving and I dip clutch too. When the revs do drop it sometimes sounds like its bout to stall and can here fuel pump whizz quite loud,then it revs up and down really slightly. Ive had 4 carbs on cos i was told thats what it was by tuners who couldnt tune it up and still the same problem. Ive checked accelerator cable, and checked if throttle flap shuts properly,all seem fine. Could it have anything to do with my fuel filter or pump?,its the only things I havent checked yet. sorry bout the long message, just hope you can help me Dale Answer: I thought the online technical gurus on the message board had sorted this one? |
| ID: 1781 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pressure v blood pressure Pt 4 Question: Dear Wizard, Well the car went into Prima this morning for its diagnostic check.It turns out that there is indeed no oil pressure!-at least non to speak of.So the culprit is the head or the block being cracked ... my money's on the former.Anyway its coming off this afternoon to be pressure tested. What a carry on!!!!! Regards, Steve Sheldon. Answer: Oil filter........definatley dodgy 
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| ID: 1782 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: t2? Question: hi wiz, is a T2 hybrid/turbo tecnics any good? also whats the safest psi on this?it all so has a garret housing! thanks ken Answer: They all have a Garret housing. T2 hybrid is likely to be a very small turbo, maybe only listed as being any good for 18psi (if you are lucky)..the magical words you are looking for are, T25, T3 or even T4!!!! then you know the turbo can handle big boost. |
| ID: 1783 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stereo / Heater relocation Question: Hi Wiz I want to swap the heater and stereo location over and have looked at your answers to other people and it makes sense, but:- When you say it requires longer heater controls do you mean get them from a different car off a scrappy or whatever, or do I need to buy specific ones? Also, is that all I need to get my hands on to do the job or are there any more items I will need. Thanx Wiz Answer: There are two heater cables, a long and a short. All you need is a second long cable to reach the extra distance to the dash. Some fettling of positions of cables may be required. |
| ID: 1784 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Tailgate Solenoid Question: Hey wiz! I've just flushed and smoother me tailgate and rear bumper, de-locked the tailgate and removed the wiper. Thep prob is that I dont know how to put the solenoid in to operate the boot lock! any tips? Cheerz Answer: Aren't there any instructions with this kit? I suppose you've got to mount the solenoid in such a way that it actually pushes onto the locking mechanism. This would mean fitting the solenoid where the old lock barrel used to be. Hopefully the solenoid isnt too big! |
| ID: 1785 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Name of R5 phase 2 carb? Question: Could you tell me the full name of the carb on the phase 2 R5 turbo. Its because i need to order some jets from renault. Answer: Solex 32 DIS |
| ID: 1786 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pressure v blood pressure Pt 5 Question: Dear Wizard, Well here's the latest in the saga.The head went in to the local engineering shop today for a pressure test... which it passed .I was hoping it wouldn't so I could at least pinpoint what is wrong so now I,ve got to decide what to do next. The chap at the eng. shop reckons with overheating on the motorway ,it could have damaged the cam bearings and even possibly the centre mains bearing though there is no outward evidence of this.Have you any ideas? I am really p.....sed off with this . Regards as always Steve Sheldon Answer: *lol*- sorry mate, ive read your post.....sounds like you've been supplied a duff oil filter. |
| ID: 1787 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wont start!!!!!! Question: alrite wiz, Rite, i have finally put on a new turbo and changed my headgasket for an uprated one. I had the head skimmed also. i have put everything back together and it wont start. I charged the battery up fully and the engine turns over but doesnt start-it has been stood for about 4 weeks. i have checked for a spark at each plug and they are all working. What do u think it could be??? thanks Liam. Answer: have you checked to see that the carb is getting fuel? I am assuming that you've put the leads on the spark plugs in the correct order? Is the timing sensor wire in good nick....if it's sh*gged then that may be why it's not starting! |
| ID: 1788 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dead car contd Question: Heres a few more bits of info from my last question. The coolant constantly bubbles in the expansion tank, but no fuel smell. Theres no creamy stuff on the oil filler cap, or anywhere else. And the exhaust is very white, and goes really black when I rev it. Hope this info helps a bit more cheers Answer: are the bubbles coming from the bottom of the expansion tank, or are they forming from the water flowing in from the top?- any bubbles coming from the bottom indicate a blown headgasket. |
| ID: 1789 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Question: When I bought my car, the guy said he was turning the boost down on the engine somewhere. Any ideas what he meant, or where he might have turned it down? Its capable of running higher boost than it is at the moment. Also, whats a bleed valve and what does it do?! Answer: he's probably turned the boost down on the actuator rod. a bleed valve keeps the wastegate shut for longer, hence letting the turbo push higher boost into the engine. It does this by bleeding off the air which controls the actuator, which controls the wastegate via the adjustable rod- which is what the previous owner has tweeked for you! |
| ID: 1790 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Revised clutch pedal assembly Question: I have just fitted what the nice Renault man said was a revised clutch assembly, in the hope of stopping repeated failures of the cable as it bends over the end of the quadrant. Trouble is, apart from a damaged stop which limits the downward movement of the pedal, it looks the same as the one I just took off, even to the part numbers of the bits of plastic The part supplied is 7701 467 632 Anybody know if this is the correct one?? If not, which one is the correct one? Answer: has it got a white top 'quadrant' on the pedal? if so, then this is the later version of it. you will still get the clutch cable snapping, although it is advisable to make sure that you actually route the cable properly around the engine bay, so that less stress if applied to the cable as it enters the cabin area. |
| ID: 1791 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electronic Boost Controller Question: Hello, Trying to find a cheap electronic boost controller with 4 boost settings, Blitz do one for £425, do you know of another company that will do a cheaper one. Cheers Answer: Why have 4 boost settings? Make your own as per Chris J's. |
| ID: 1792 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: overheating Question: hi wiz this on behalf of a friend,whose having trouble joining online...mark u there? he has a phase 2 (standard with piper cone fiter and we've check compression thats fine and consistent, reverse flushed the engine,heater matrix,all hoses degas bits Answer: changed the rad (second hand and flushed it)changed the sender. We've removed the thermostat. i've advised him to get a garage to check with the rad smoke detector tool thingy and wirer the fan so it's switchable. is there anything else it could be thanx wise one" |
| ID: 1793 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stereo / Heater Swap Question: Just out of interest, how easy is it to swap the heater and headunit positions? What sort of bits and bobs would I need to do it? My headunit at the moment doesnt like being at such an angle, so a swap would be the logical choice. Please dont tell me I have to remove the facia(!) Cheers for the help wiz. Answer: Hi my friend, This question was asked before, but if you need any more information don't hesitate to get back to me. The number of the other question is 222 - just type it in the box on the bottom left and it shall appear 
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| ID: 1794 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost control Question: could you please wiz give me a simple guide to fitting a incar twin outlet boost control...it has no breather cheers wise one Answer: You have to ""T"" into the actuator line at the front of the car and fit a max boost limiter of some description. Then run the T'd line into the car and use the second outlet as the exhaust. Alternatively, just elongate the actuator pipes into the cockpit to then be T'd to allow adjustment but be carefull as this will leave you with no max limiter. |
| ID: 1795 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Quad Rear Clusters Question: Does anybody make quad rear clusters for a gtt? Answer: Prima Racing does some...not sure about anyone else though...probably best to phone around. |
| ID: 1796 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fan not kicking in Question: hi wiz,my radiator fan has stopped kicking in,i've tried touching the rad switch wires together and the relay clicks but the fan doesn't start,ive tried putting a current directly to the motor and it turns so i know it isnt that,any help would be much appreciated Answer: have you tried replacing the relay?- even though it clicks it might not be getting any current through it. If it is still knackered then you know that the relay iteself isn't seeing any current, along the switchable circuit....you'll have to start tracing back from there....unlees you find another wire with a +ve feed and replace it with that instead..... |
| ID: 1797 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Switch type thing Question: I have noticed a switch on the left hand intercooler pipe (left hand side when sat in the car)..it has two male spade terminals on it but no wires. I have found two wires with female spade terminal ends tied up and secured to he bulk head. Upon untying them I found they will reach to this switch but I cant tell which wire goes to which terminal. Any ideas what this switch is and which way round the wires go? I think someone said it's called an over-boost switch. Answer: the wires can either way round. it is a pressure sensitive switch that switches itself 'on' when you reach around 14psi. This in turn cuts the spark to the engine, via the two black wires connected to it. This feature is here to prevent overboosting from the turbo...i.e.in the event of the wastegate malfunctioning, its not suddenly going to blow the engine up! |
| ID: 1798 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Weak engine despite high boost Question: Hi Wiz! I'm a new here, hope you can adivce what am I doing wrong. I have a custom turbo producing about 22-23 psi at the manifold, and also a few engine mods (see my profile), and it's fast, but not enough. I think at 22 psi it should be at least 180 BHP, no? Well, mine puts out 120 BHP at the wheels (about 150 at flywheel, I guess) at 22 psi. I've a standard carb, but no pinking at all. What can be wrong? Answer: this sounds low....are you sure its not to do with your 'special' engine that you have in there?- what is your compression ratio listed as? Then again you could just have an airleak somewhere.... |
| ID: 1799 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bad handling Question: wiz,i think my bad handling is down to the car having excesive camber,the wheels are leaning in at the top and the trackings spot on but i'm still wearing tyers on the inner side.I've seen some camber adjusters for sale but like a 100 quid is there any cheaper method of adjusting the camber on the 5 Answer: extending the strut mounting holes in the shock tower towards the wing (i.e away from the engine) and then moving the whole strut outwards slightly. This removes the camber you are talking about. |
| ID: 1800 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 1983 r5 big end rebuild Question: Recently bought 1983 R5 gordini turbo for project. rebuilding engine/gearbox etc. if I can get the parts!! Im a new member and was hoping some of your contact guru's could help me... Does anyone know where I can get big end bearings, crankshaft (maybe),gasket sets or anything. Is there a weber for possible replacement?? Are there any in-line engine conversions available?? Much appreciated Pete. Errr... tell me if this is the wrong place for these questions, still learning site! Answer: for the big end bearings goto an engine builder. gasket sets: you need to find a car parts store that has the Curty Payen gasket book....they will almost definately be able to order it in for you. You can get big power out of the gordini block, speak to the tuners about it....start with DD autosports (i know they have knowledge of these)....then work your way through. |
| ID: 1801 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pre 1985 r5 haynes Question: yes its me the dunce again..Can u get the r5 (phase 1???) 1976-1985 haynes manual in english. Ive found the french manual in french , and the english conversion with no pictures, but wouldnt it just be bloody easier if there was an english translation with pics. Thanx again Answer: if there is a haynes manual available, Halfords is probably the best place to get it ordered in...as they buy so many, they are ususally the cheapest for manuals....so i've been told! |
| ID: 1802 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re boiling Question: hi again wiz...it's not the feeds there perfect no leaks,the oil is burning on the inside of the exhaust housing and the smoke is seaping through in to engine bay.if the seal had gone on the exhaust side would it possably do this? Answer: sounds like one of the bearings is shot....some tuners say that this takes time to 'coke' up if new....but i'd be wary of this argument. Unfortunatley taking the turbo apart properly also takes time and money....but it might be what you need. Get it rebuilt and the bearings changed. |
| ID: 1803 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo blade play Question: Hi wizz could you please help me with a little query..I have heard different views on turbo vane play I have heard you are allowed a little side to side play but no in and out as this is play in the thrust bearings. but I have also heard that you not allowed any side to side play but a little in and out is ok.as when the oil is passing through the turbo it elliminates this play..sorry to be a bit long winded but which is correct many thanks Answer: as far as im aware, when your turbo is new, it has a little up/down and left/right movement. There is no in and out movement! I was also told that when the thrust bearing is shot, then the shaft does move in and out, this usually being caused by oil starvation. When the shaft moves excessively up and down, then the blades start to catch on the turbo housing. This mean that the journal bearings are knackered, which is usually caused by bits in your oil, eroding them away...(i.e not letting the car idle properly before switch off!) |
| ID: 1804 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bleed Valve Question: Hi, i have got a bleed valve fitted to my car and was just wondering, wot the exact purpose fot it was, i think it has been set to 15 psi by graham goode when i serviced it. However if i took it off wouldn't it mean that too much boost was going through it all the time??? i.e at the moment i can set more or less pressure to go through!!! Answer: if you took it off and didn't connect the tubing together then the actuator would not operate, and you would either blow your engine or turbo up! it is there so that the turbo can push more or less air into the engine. It does this by tricking the actuator into thinking the turbo isn't producing as much boost as it actually is. |