| ID: 1805 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Perculation fan Question: Just wanted to know why my perc fan doesn't kick in when i'm driving the car hard and park it up. The fuse is o.k is there any thing else i can check.......When i start it up in the morning it starts o.k, does this have to work or can i just ignore it? Answer: You need to check that either of the two perc fan sensor if functioning correctly....the one under the carb and the one over the turbo... check for continuity at higher temperatures! |
| ID: 1807 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sunroof Question: i went to close my sunroof and the damm thing broke. the part thats broken is plastic and looks like a guide of some sort. when you turn the knob at the sunroof it moves along a gear to open and close. i phoned my local renault dealer and they said that there is 2 different sizes of sunroof. and that they dont stock any parts for either sunroof and also dont know where i can get the part i need he also said that the sunroof wouldnt have been fitted at the factory it was a aftermarket item!! do you know where i could get the part i need ?? my car is a R5 GTT on a (G-PLATE) the sunroof is a britax pour Answer: Maybe you should contact Britax! It definately doesn't sound like a Renault factory fit item. |
| ID: 1808 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuego turbo Question: anyone know how to change a fuel tank on a Fuego????? ;-) :-P MOGGY Answer: There's a guy i know from Wales who knows alot about older renaults...but he'd probably tell you to pi$$ off as you are a boy racer!!!! Fuel tank on a Fuego?- nothing a spanner can't sort out! ;-) |
| ID: 1809 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Miles & miles & miles & miles Question: I have just recently got to the point of having my car mot'ed after 2.5 years off the road and she did well. The thing is that the guy at the garage i went to (renualt specialist) told me the best thing to do is get it through the mot and sell it as it has high milage(10072). What is your opinion on this as i dont want to get rid of her but lets face it we dont all have money to burn.Can you also point me in the right direction as to companys supplying recon or rebuilt engines at a resonable price. Sorry for the essay, and thanks for your help in the past . Answer: nowadays most 5's are high mileage. so its becoming less of an issue that your car has done over the 'magical' 100k mark. Is the engine burning oil? if not don't worry about the mileage until something does actually go wrong! |
| ID: 1810 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Re No gears Question: Yep when i tried to engage a gear it sometimes crunched but mostly just wouldnt go in unless i really forced it. Answer: try pumping the clutch pedal alot before you change gear...the pedal's self adjust mechanism could be shot....if it aint that then you could be looking at a new clutch. |
| ID: 1811 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: side exit Question: i just acquired a side exit exhaust how legal are they?? will it pass an MOT?? and which side should it exit from? your wizdom is much appreciatted Answer: This probably depends on the MOT centre you goto...best to phone them up first. i think that they cannot extend out from the bodywork, and mustn't be too loud....stuff some wire wool up it to sort that out! You can only get ones that exit on the passenger side for the 5 turbo. I'm sure the fuel lines go down the drivers side of the car!!!! |
| ID: 1812 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: idle Question: I tried everything the gurus told me but its still doing it, was just hoping for a lend of your wand, or your irratic idling fixing spell for beginners. cheers Answer: remind me what they said? did it go like this? change the following  in no particular order)1)dizzy cap/rotor arms/plugs/leads 2)fuel filter/clean the carb jets 3)fit new diaphragm kit. 4)borrow an ecu and try that. 5)check the vacuum hose from the carb base to the ecu. is it split? 6)make dure the dump valve diaphragm is ok! 7)check the carb base for airleaks 8)make sure the manifold gasket is secure, and not leaking air i could go-on...pls tick off what you have or haven't done!- and what the definite symptoms are! |
| ID: 1813 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: FASTER FASTER Question: how can i make my standard 1.4 gtl faster.i tried more fuel and took the air box off but no difference.Please help me wiz Gareth Answer: sell it and get a 5 turbo? you could of course buy NOS and get power that way. failing that you could put in the diesel gearbox with shorter ratios... |
| ID: 1814 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil feed filter Question: where can i buy an oil feed filter (web site or phone number would be great). cheers wiz Answer: demon tweeks/rally design...both sell the Bailey item... Mocal also make one. |
| ID: 1815 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Revised clutch assembly Question: Thank you for confirmation what I expected, ie that the assembly I have just fitted is the same as the one I removed. However all is not lost. The previous clutch failures have all been about 3 inches from the pedal end, at the end of the quadrant. I have always suspected this due to the cable being bent around the edge of the quadrant instead of in a straight line, and expected the ""revised"" version to have an extended quadrant. The one I have just taken off had a displaced & broken stop, so that the downward movement of the pedal was restricted by the pedal hitting the carpet instead of the stop. There is even a small hole in the carpet where the pedal has been hitting. Excessive downward movement would allow the cable to be bent around the edge of the quadrant, perhaps?? We shall see Oh yes. I fitted a QH cable last time. Halfords stocked 2 almost identical cables, one white and one black. The white one (forget the reference number at present) had identical mountings to the other (and the Renault genuine part) but the inner cable was about 20% thicker, but fitted just the same. As I said, we shall see. Answer: no probs!- thanks for letting me know! :-) |
| ID: 1816 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Intercooler swap Question: Could i fit a front mounted alloy intercooler to my 11 Turbo as someone has given one to me and if i could what would the pro's and con's be. Cheers Wizard Answer: yes you can fit a front mounted intercooler to a 11T. you just have to get some metal tubing and the relevent sized samco's and some decent mounting brackets. Then you've got to look at how to reroute the tubing. it should make quite a difference in intake temperature! |
| ID: 1817 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Strut Brace Question: Hi Whizz, Just a quickie. I have just bought a Sparco Strut brace and I want to fit it myself. How do I do this.Is this difficult and what tools do I need. Thank you o wise one. Answer: you need a 13mm socket. undo both sets of bolts that are on the shock towers in the engine bay....then place the strut brace across the shock towers and then redo the bolts, bolting the strut brace in place. |
| ID: 1818 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: quantam physics easy.....car electrics hmmm Question: wiz, I'm having a problem with the lights at the pointy end of my car, the passenger side lights work fine, but the drivers side are another story..... the front indicator and side repeater only work when the head/side lights are off, the headlight will only come on very dimly and will make the sidelight go dim and flash in time with the indicators which will also dim, i have tried to sort out the connections, even taking the side-repeater out of the curcuit but no joy, whats it all about eh? Answer: check the earths on the drivers side! around the lights, near the battery, anywhere where there is a connection the bodywork. hopefully this should sort it. |
| ID: 1819 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Less boost!? Question: Hi Wiz, My car has done 38000 miles and was completely standard apart from the green air induction kit. The guy at ep motorsport has checked it out and confirmed the engine and turbo were mint. Yesterday I fitted a scorpion 3"" full stainless which looks and sounds great but now the boost gauge will not go round as far and the car feels slightly more sluggish, is there an explanation for this? Answer: Have you changed the boost pressure circuit at all?- i.e the connection that goes to the turbo elbow? If not, it's all todo with backpressure... |
| ID: 1820 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bleed valve[in car] Question: wiz,i have just bought a 3 way bleed valve and was wondering if you could tell me where should the pipe from the underside of the valve run to.Is it a vaccum pipe?if so,could i t-piece it into the d valve vaccum pipe.cheers wiz! Answer: no-no-no!;-) the pipe you are talking about, is the waste gas pipe that vents the bled off boost pressure to the engine bay. It isn't supposed to be fitted to anything! Just feed it into the engine compartment and leave it alone! :-P |
| ID: 1821 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuelling Question: Hello Wiz, thanks for responding to other questions, they were a great help. Right, on to the next one, i seem to be guzzling alot of fuel. About 80-100pounds a week, crazy i know, what could i do to reduce it, ive heard about a fuel pressure rugulator??? what would that do???and changing the plugs and leads. i have a big boost difference, from 2psi to 16psi, how can i fuel my car to cope with these two settings??? Cheers Answer: You are not telling me how many miles your car is doing for the given amount of petrol. Mine can do between 20 - 28mpg, depending on carb setup. A fuel pressure regulator just regulates the fuel to the carburettor, it cannot reduce the amount of fuel being consumed by the engine. Changing the plugs and leads is also not going to improve economy. For 16psi, just enlarge the main jet slightly, that should be enough to run 16psi safely.- get it rolling roaded to make sure though. |
| ID: 1822 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Sound of turbo Question: Hi, Went for a drive today and noticed that when the car came on boost(standard 10 psi) there was i really high pitched noise coming from what seemed to be the turbo.no smoke ,and checked all pluming to it.Could it be breaking up inside? cheers Answer: sounds like you've got a split pipe. check the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler. It will probably of cracked near the jubilee clips. If it isn't this then make sure the turbo is bolted to the manifold correctly, as a leak there can cause some odd whistles too! If the turbo was breaking up inside, it would of knackered your whole engine by now.....so i really think that this isn't your problem :-) |
| ID: 1823 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Conversions Question: What wud b easier and cud i do it. Clio 1.8 16v or renault 1.4 turbo conversion into my renault 5 1.4 non turbo.if the clio engine is easier put into a renault 5 how cud i put a turbo onto it? Thanks WizArd Answer: The 5 gt turbo lump and ecu is a lot simpler than the clio 1.8 lump...it is also smaller! so im thinking that the 5 turbo lump would be easier to fit. but better and cheaper would be to just buy an actual 5 GT Turbo and then you wouldn't have to worry about conversions! In all fairness, you really need to look at how much time and money this conversion will cost when compared to buying a whole 5 Turbo. |
| ID: 1824 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lowering springs Question: Where can i get a pair of lowering springs at the right price? and all ive found is 35mm where can i get lower? Answer: Is it APB or ABP in Crewe..they do lowering springs to order...60mm + drop ;-) do a search on the boards, the truth is out there..... |
| ID: 1825 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: psi Question: Alright Wiz, Just wanted to know what psi my car is running, when bled it boosts to just outside the reds on the standard boost gauge? Also is it safe to run this boost or shall I get an uprated head gasket? Answer: so you could be running just above 14psi...but who is to say that the gauge is accurate?- it may have become worn internally!- Probably best to get an aftermarket boost gauge. Just run the gasket you've got on there until it blows up. If you sort your fuelling it won't blow up! ;-) |
| ID: 1826 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bearings?????? Question: wizard, the high pitch squeeling, has got louder, every now and again a noisier high pitch squeal, is this bearing, how can you find out if it is, and whats a rear wheel bearing like to change Answer: Are you sure its not your brake pads?- *lol* to find out if it is your wheel bearing, jack up your wheel and then remove the wheel/tyre, the see if you can turn the disc by hand! If it turns smoothly then it is ok. If it crunches, grinds, slops about in/out or up/down then you know its knackered! Changing the rear wheel bearing is easier if you change the disc too! Follow Mr Haynes proceedures and all will be ok! |
| ID: 1827 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Nipples Question: Just changed the pads and discs at the front end, went to bleed the system and some one has stolen my bleed nipples. Not really the dam thing has been choped of???????? Any ideas as to a way around this, or should i just get some new calipers? Answer: Well, sounds like they've been snapped off previously! You can actually semi-bleed the system by undoing the brake pipe that fits into the caliper, and and bleeding it from that joint....but it'll never be as good as doing it properly. Only way really is to buy new calipers.... |
| ID: 1828 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Compression results Question: Hi Wiz I did a compression test today, the results were as follows; starting from the turbo side of the engine 75, 125, 125, 75 then i re-tested and it was as follows 125, 125, 125, 125 is it normal to get two different readings can you tell me if these results are ok? My engine has done 119,000 miles and was supposedly re-built at 110,000 cheers in advance Rich Answer: the 125 sounds ok but i expect the 75 was down to a poor connection to the plughole. |
| ID: 1829 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CARB Question: ANY WAY U CAN MAKE A TWIN CARB CONVERSION.? Answer: Yes. Give GDI or Europarts a call, both have systems in developement. |
| ID: 1830 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo not coming in at all Question: Hi mate can you tell me the problem no boost at all can u help and tell me the price region and who to get it done by thanx alot mate . Answer: No boost at all suggests either a boost pipe has come off, the intercooler has split in a big way or the actuator arm has come off of the wastegate lever. |
| ID: 1831 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Up-rated fuel pump Question: Just got myself a big turbo and am wanting to turn the boost right up. But I've got a standard fuel pump, so I'm gonna need a new one. Rather than buying one from a tuners are there any other cars I could get one from by going to a scrap yard? Also rather than increasing BHP I was thinking of reducing wasted BHP. Would it be possible to get an electronic water pump thus reducing the load on the engine? Just a though, probably a really bad idea but worth asking. Cheers for any help, Adam Answer: You need to look at cars that have an externally mounted fuel pump. Such as: BMW 3 series (E30 spec), Citroen BX/205 Gti, Ford RS Turbo..etc etc all would do the job. You can get an electronic water pump from a VR6 Golf or even a VW T4 van....they cost a lot of money new though. You would also have to re-route the water system. |
| ID: 1832 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: half boost!""$%!!! Question: at a visit to santa pod i was running 20psi and getting 14.7 runs, i thought for the next run i would adjust to actuator up a bit (factory unit) three turns later it was running 8psi?? (yes i adjusted it the right way) in a panic i adjusted it back to the old position and guess what 8 psi!! i then opened the bleed valve fully this gave me 2psi more, after a few 15 sec runs i gave up and went home asuming i had damaged the old actuator, i have now fitted a adjustable k-tec actuator (pig to fit) and guess what- 10psi even with the bleed valve fully open,the dump valve seems to be ok ie no leaks although a touch on the quieter side(lower boost?) all the hoses seem ok. the cars spec is as follows,alloy intercooler,side exit,dump valve,bleed valve,alloy actuator, i have adjusted the new actuator to many positions and it still will only boost to 10psi,and yes the overboost switch is disconnected please give me a list of things i need to check!!!! Answer: I would say that your alloy intercooler has split a weld. This is very common on the older twin cored types. |
| ID: 1833 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Nitrous causing severe boost pulsing Question: Hello Mr Wizard Sir Im hoping you can save Me a bit of time as Im feeling a little lazy after spending all weekend fitting My Nos system and then going to a couple of parties getting 2 hours sleep then driving up to York raceway(well my misses did...and back) just to try out said system(before you say it Its a lovely install ...honest) the problem goes a little somthing like this 1. Nos armed on the line(cos ive got 4 wheel drive I can!) 2. xmas tree goes all flashy and stuff 3.one drops the clutch and car buggers off up the strip great untill pulling hard in 2nd the boost pulses between 0.8 bar and 1.5bar and will continue to do so all the way past the expensive timing display....some 1/4 of a mile away Ive got a greddy controller and without nos 1.5 (even 1.8)can be held rock solid this may be a little help to you whilst consulting your spell books some silly bugger during the install mounted the fogger jet almost pointing at the air temp sensor could this be freezing the air temp sensor into thinking ...""bloody hell its cold (-170 degrees) dont quite know what to do with the injection strategy on this one?????"" do you know if the extra pressure in the inlet manifold (800 psi) is likely to really upset the absolute pressure sensor and so mess up basic fuel injection(again injection related) another one on manifold pressure my greddy boost controller also reads boost of the manifold so could be subject to the same pressure interference as above Im not daft or anything just wanted to run my thoughts past someone else as Im not to clued up on Nos and apart from more complicated ideas than above cant see the wood for the trees sorry to throw all this gibberish at you hope you can help(stop talking b******s and take the nos off will suffice if no ideas) Many regards Trev Answer: Even though i am a turbo wizard i have been looking into NOS as quite a few people seem to be interested in it after the Fast and the Furious! I would say that the Nos would spike the boost but it should hold at the preset max. I think you may well be right in thinking that the air temp sensor is the likely culprit. Try relocating the nozzle and block the previous hole properly. |
| ID: 1834 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: noisy engine Question: Dear Sir, When I start the car and the engine is cold I get a noise similar to bad valve adjustment or something like a diesel car. When the engin reaches the normal temperature everything sounds good. The engine is powerfull, no noise. Could it be ocured by thin oil? I use 5W40 full synthetic. Thank you in advance! Answer: It could be down to oil. I wouldn't recommend using an oil that thin anyway. Try Mobil One Motorsport. If the noise is like a ticking then it could be a cracked manifold or turbo exhaust housing that is sealing up when hot. |
| ID: 1835 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: STAYING HOT!!! Question: To the Wiz Help!! My Reno is staying hot all the time it doesnt overheat as the fan kicks in as normal but it stays at that point on the temp gauge even if I am driving along for a while.It seems to get hotter when the turbo boost kicks in. I ve checked the obivous things (water, hoses etc) The only thing I can see wrong is that from the turbo there is a nozzle which points up , (which has a hose on it which goes to the water pump) which has become discoloured (white). What is wrong is it the turbo or the cooling system ,sorry for the long question but I need help. Answer: I would say you have a blocked rad as the turbo boost adds heat to the coolant when transfered from the turbo. |