| ID: 1713 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: INLET MANIFOLD? Question: HI THERE OH HOLY ONE! just wonderd how difficult it was to change the inlet manifold? Answer: Isn't there a step by step guide in the maintenance section of the website? It takes about 1hr to do, more if its your first time. ;-) |
| ID: 1714 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure versus blood pressure Question: Dear Wizard' I've got one of those hard to solve problems on my wife's ph2.It follows on from the cylinder head saga and the ""clacking sound"" (see previous missives!)I have now replaced 1 cylinder head 2 piston & liner 3 four pistons / liners 4 big end shells The clacking sound has gone...hoorah, but I now have a problem with the oil pressure symtoms as follows: with original o.p. sensor and ignition on, the gauge shows 5/6 but also water temp warning light is on as is the oil pressure light. Start engine, stays the same for a min or so then all lights go out and op needle goes to zero! When I swap the OP sensor with mine (ph1) lights as normal(just the battery light) op needle on 0 (as ph1) Start engine , lights go out but no oil pressure on needle! The ph 2 sensor seems ok on mine So, what is going on? Am I really not going to have any oil pressure?The engine seems perfectly ok otherwise. What's my next plan of attack, is it worth swapping gauges? Please suggest something ,the only pressure I'm getting is blood pressure! Regards, Steve Sheldon. i Answer: First of all try swapping the wires to the oil pressure sensor around. You may also have one of the wires earthing somewhere it shouldn't. Both can cause weird readings. If there are more problems get back to me. |
| ID: 1715 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure versus blood pressure pt 2 Question: Dear Wizard, Following on from my previous question, I have now swapped the gauges from my car to my wife's, and it makes no difference.I'm beginning to wonder therefore if indeed there is no oil pressure? It seems unlikely with the new bearings in place? Could it be perhaps the oil pump which has mysteriousy and suddenly failed to cope somehow?I'm baffled, any ideas? Regards again, Steve Sheldon. Answer: take the top oil feed pipe off the car, place it in a milk bottle, then remove the king lead to the distibutor, then crank the car over. oil should come running out of the pipe reasonably quicky, if not, you could have a knackered pump....although this is inlikely as they wear and the pressure reduces slowly over time...not straight away! |
| ID: 1716 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dead car Question: Hey wiz,major problems. I leant my car to my friend(although not any more) to drop off his missus. When he came back he said the car had been running hot. So naturally I opened the bonnet to check coolant etc. And there was black/blue smoke pouring out of everywhere, but mainly from the spark plug area. The car now runs like a bag of shit, and I made my mate gimme his Uno turbo and £400 til he fixex mine. Any idea what the problem is? Also the cars losing a lot of coolant. Time for a new five? Answer: could be a shagged headgasket. :-( have your got creamy stuff under the oil filler cap? does the water in the expansion bottle smell of fuel? does the exhuast gas look REALLY white? does the water in the expansion bottle bubble when you rev the car? all indicate a knackered head gasket...although more info would be better! ;-) |
| ID: 1717 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb Question: I'm wondering if the carb on top of my ren11tbo is the same as the one on top of a ren5tbo, and if not can i change it for an uprated one. Answer: it should be the same carb top, although i do remember someone telling me that some renault 11's had a different solex carb on them, and hence a differnt carb top (with no 'bleed offs'). If yours has 3 pipes coming off the top of the plastic elbow, then it is definatley the same as the 5 turbo! in which case changing for an uprated item definately wont be a problem! |
| ID: 1718 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Speedo Question: Hey Wiz, I have a F reg 5 Turbo. My speedo doesnt work at all. I have checked the connectors at the back of the speedo/dash. Is it most likely to be the speedo itself or something else? Is it possible to test the speedo with some electrical stuff! Cheers Answer: If you want to test the wire, a continuity test is what you need to do. Clean all the connections, including the black connection that sits on the passenger side shock tower! Don't forget it could be the actual sensor that plugs into the gearbox that could be the problem. You may end up getting a new speedo wire. |
| ID: 1719 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: psi for hydrid Question: if i was to buy a stage 3 hydrid would it run ok on about 11 psi or is there a minimum psi on it. also if it does run on a higher psi would it still be safe to run if everything else is standard(i have only modified the engine with a larger exhaust, air filter and dump valve). please help and thanx for your time wiz Answer: You can run a hybrid at as low a boost as you want. By higher psi, i wouldn't recommend more than 15psi on a standard carb set up. |
| ID: 1720 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bad handling Question: Wiz, i just can't get my 5 to handle as well as my old r5.The steering feels really light and tends to pull when i put the brakes on.It's got new disks,pads ,lower arms,lower balljoints,tracking good and it's still got cack handling.any ideas what else i can check.cheers Answer: how much has it been lowered when compared with your old 5? The lower you go, the more camber you get on your wheels. This causes, light steering as you are running on the inside edge of the tyres. Your steering UJ could be worn, which would make you have to keep correcting the steering to keep in a straight line. The worst case scenario, is a bent subframe or a knackered steering rack...:-( |
| ID: 1721 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Indicator stalk not cancelling. Question: Wiz, I got the stalk to cancel. I simply removed the tab from the boss with a hacksaw and file, then Araldite glued on a small strip of metal at exactly the 9 o'clock position where the original tab was positioned. Answer: sorted!:-) |
| ID: 1722 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Battery light Question: On returning from a trip today I pulled off a roundabout and accelerated hard. The battery light came on and there was a smell in the cockpit. I stopped and opened the bonnet to find nothing wrong. The car was idling a bit lower while the light was on. (I have recently installed the 'Discarnect' battery immobiliser from Richbrook wich is simply a nut which tightens to connect or loosens to disconnect the neg. battery terminal for ease.) I tightened the 'Discarnect' terminal and the problem went away. Am I right in saying that if the battery was slightly disconnected that the battery light would come on? What do you think the smell was? It was not my pants as I stayed cool even though there was no hard shoulder! Answer: what sort of smell was it? a boiling battery smell, or a burning wire smell? an oily smell? ;-) it could have been burning wire! if the battery is disconnected im pretty sure the batt light comes on, although to be honest its not something i have tried :-) |
| ID: 1723 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 0psi, 7psi, 14psi, 21psi??? Question: I am going to buy a Blitz boost controller, which has 4 different boost settings, if i set my car to each of the levels above would that be safe, i know at 21psi i need extra cooling, etc, but at 0psi, will the car have enough power, its for motorway journies, trying to keep fuel levels to a minimum, would it be better setting it at 2psi mininum. Also, for 21psi, what besides alot of cooling is recommended for the engine/turbo. Cheers Phil Answer: Unless the controller replaces the actuator with another type then you will have minimum boost set at whatever the actuator spring pressure is ie 7psi. For 21 psi i would recommend a larger 27mm venturi and carb rejet, uprated fuel pump, alloy intercooler, silicon boost hoses, dump valve, uprated plugs, larger exhaust, hybrid turbo, better air filter or cone filter. |
| ID: 1724 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PERC FAN+BRUSHES..and extra relay? Question: Dear wizard.. my perc fan is buggered, and i was wondering if it is possible to buy a brush box (like for alternators) and thus overhaul it myself, saving dosh? if so where can i get a set of brushes? or would you advise just getting a new fan motor? Also my local tuners removed my sensor from heatshield and added a relay next to the radiator (right hand side on slam panel top), the radiator fan works fine now (comes in just above second mark), but why have they removed the sensor? and why an extra relay? they said the old one had died, but i cant fathom location move? will this hurt my baby? Answer: I would recommend a new perc fan motor as they are renowned to fail. The rad fan has a relay mounted on the plastic panel next to the rad and in front of the alternator as standard and this is prone to water ingress. Moving it is just to prevent this. I expect the perc fan sensor from the heatshield was knackered and a replacement is expensive. If the perc fan is knackered and not replaced then it is not required. |
| ID: 1725 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: porting and polishing Question: hi wiz I'm fitting a new cam (piper 285 road rally), and a friend told me about porting, polishing and matching, so I'm trying to find out as much as I can about this.my questions are ,about how much does this cost? do you need to get the inlet and exhaust manifolds polished? can I and is it worth it getting the valves inlarged? I was also told that the head sould not be skimmed only checked, is this also true Answer: Look at sites on the web, there is loads of info available! The price can vary alot, depending who does it and what they do. You are looking from around £250 upwards, for work done by a 'professional'! polishing the inlet and exhaust manifold is only worth doing if you have loads of money to spend and are really going overboard with things.....but then again, you'd be getting a tubular exhaust manifold anyway, if you wanted to go balls out on it ;-) you can try to gt the valves enlarged, but there isn't really much room on the head!- but as they say every little bit helps! You need to check the flatness of the head, and then if its warped ,then get it skimmed. |
| ID: 1726 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ideal running temp? Question: Hi Wiz, I have just put a copper core rad,a low temp thermostat and a low temp fan switch into my 5 GTT. I noticed it is running a lot warmer after these parts were fitted. There was no thermostat in before but it is running between the quarter and 3 quarter mark now sometimes right on the 3 quarter. Is this temp ok. Also what would the ideal temp read on a digital gauge as I will be getting one of these very soon. Thanks. Mark. Answer: has the system been bled correctly? if air is present in the system then it will get hot! check also to see if your water pump if working, by seeing if there is a flow of water into the expansion bottle! the temp is ok, but that is for a standard rad and standard fan switch! the oil temp is dictated by the water temperature and should be approximately 80° |
| ID: 1727 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: orginal sticker work for phase 1+2 s Question: do renault still produce the orginal sticker work that were slapped on the sides of the cills! cheers wiz Answer: yes they do, im sure they want big money for them! ring reno up and ask them...i bet they are £80 each :-) |
| ID: 1728 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Samco Hoses Question: I wanna use Samco hoses on my car but they don't do a kit for it (i don't think), which of the Renault 5 hoses can i use. Answer: Have you tried SFS? They make silicone hoses too. You may have to get them specially made, or just get metal pipes and silicone end pieces... |
| ID: 1729 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: back hatch rot! Question: hi wiz,i,m thinking of having my 5 resprayed for summer and i,m replacing various panels due to tin worm.The only part i can,t source new is a back hatch,i,ve looked round breakers and all are same or worse than mine(rust around window sealing rubbers)any ideas? Answer: You may have to check several of the panel makers that are listed on the web. Failing that you've got to keep searching! |
| ID: 1730 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Release Bearing Question: I am about to take your advice and uprate my clutch with a Volvo 400 series Turbo one.Should I use the Volvo or a Renault release bearig or are they the same. Also could you recommend a good manual about Turbo's. Answer: They are the same. You might as well put the new Volvo one in, as the Renault item could be worn. I am as good as a manual! :-P |
| ID: 1731 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Big End Question: Hello beard weird, long time no speak :-) I’ve developed white spots covering the whole of my ball bag! Is this a normal condition throughout the male species? Is this because I shaved them at an early age in life to speed the process of puberty? Will tiger balm or firey jack cure the problem? Are you going to get a new face lift for the new website? Whats the capital of France? cheers wiz  Answer: Karlos, the only Big End here is you! i think that white spots on yer ball bag indicate lack of use. although i've heard that connecting the 5's alternator to your scrotum may releive you of some pent up 'energy' for at least a couple of hours. |
| ID: 1732 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear clusters Question: can you tell me where i can find some all red rear light clusters? Answer: The only ones i have seen are the clear lights that were being sold in Germany for around £280. Most people 'make' the rears appear all red by spraying laquer on them with a touch of red paint mixed in with it. |
| ID: 1733 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: noise from perc fan Question: when ignition is turned on a noise is sometimes heard and seems to come from 2 relays that are situated below the prec just behind the h/lamp. if i remove the fuse the noise stops and when it put in can feel a vibration from the relays. Answer: change the relays. They sound like they are knackered, especially if they are 'fluttering' internally. |
| ID: 1734 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear spoiler Question: hello mr wiz ive just bought a rear spoiler wiv brake light and need to know how to take the old 1 off?? from wot i can c theres no screws or bolts holdin it on so it shud just rip off but b4 i do and rip off the whole boot in the process thought id better ask first?? Answer: Hi John, Take a look in the ARticles section under ""Styling"" - there are pictures that show what it looks like with the old spoiler taken off, and what you'll need to do to smooth it out. Good luck! |
| ID: 1735 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost adjuster (incar) Question: Im looking at fitting an in car boost adjuster. The ones ive looked at all have 3 take offs for hoses on them. Where and why do they fit??? Cheers Answer: they fit to the pipe that goes from the carb top to the turbo actautor (the one closest to the rad, if there are two pipes from the actuator!) one pipe from the actuator goes to the left hand 'prong' of the adjuster, then the right hand 'prong' goes to the carb top. the centre 'prong' is a waste pipe that needs to be fed out of the engine bay. |
| ID: 1736 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: FILTER Question: Hi Wiz, Im wanting to move my ITG air filter cos I have no turbo heatshield,just a little poksy piece of metal between filter and turbo to protect it. Could you please give me some tips on where the best place to move it to and how. cheers mate Dale Answer: some people move the air filter to where the passenger side fog lamp is. they do this by buying pieces of samco tubing, and some metal pipe. Use the'L' bend off the turbo, onto the metal tubing, then onto the air filter! Another way if to relocate your expansion tank, and cut a large hole in the side of the wing, with the air filter 1/2 sticking out of it. |
| ID: 1737 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boiling sound Question: hi wiz i've sussed the water leak...the only prob now is the oil seems to be coming out of the caseing where the oil feed goes to!!i can't see it but at times theres alot of smoke coming off it or under it ,it's hard to tell.theres no leaks from the oil feeds could this be a crack inside the shaft caseing?occcasionally i get a small pufff of smoke from the exhaust but theres no oil in the i-cooler or the hoses. please help oh wise one pete Answer: check that the oil return pipe is correct sealed/ tightened up. i.e the pipe that sits underneath the turbo. -this has a tendancy to leak. |
| ID: 1738 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: downpipe Question: hiya wiz just a kwik question will a large downpipe fit any turbo or do you have to have a hybrid which i have anyway. just want to free up an extra couple of horses. cheers jack Answer: there are several large down pipes available...all as far as im aware fit the turbo elbow with no problems. Where it joins the exhaust downpipe is another matter...you may have to ask the manufacturers about this. |
| ID: 1741 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lost revs Question: mr wiz this is hard to explain but when i accelerate in me car then take me foot off the pedal the car doesnt free wheel to slow down it like jolts forward a bit so it aint a smooth decrease in speed,me is thinkin that the flamin piston dump valve on me car aint helpin? or maybe i need to gas flow me head to make the air flow smoother,the throttle response on the car is really sensitive tho,ur thoughts pls?? Answer: most likely to be the carburettor or ignition leads/plugs. Check these first!- the D/V is not going to mess with your deceleration. And a gas flowed head is overkill in this situation.... |
| ID: 1742 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: door handles Question: Hi Wiz, I'm going to make myself some replacement door cards out of mdf. I have seen people mount the door handles flush 90 degrees to the original mounting position, do I need to modify the linkage in any way to do this? Or can I just turn them and mount them? Cheers. Answer: I wouldn't have thought the linkage would have needed much modding. nothing a pair of pliers couldn't sort out anyway! |
| ID: 1743 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clio rear shockers Question: put some williams rear shockers on yesterday, after setting off down the road they were making a really loud rubbing noise. looked under and could not see any thing.Went home and removed wheels, they had been rubbing on the shocker top bolt on the inside of the tyre!! I then put some 5mm spacers on but can i shave a little off the bolt head to avoid spacer use..??? the car does feel and handle better and takes round abouts at great speed.. Cheers wizard Answer: well, you could take some off the bolt, but it could be classed as dangerous, cos you dont want the head shearing off now do you? If you were going to take any metal off, probably the best place is actually the hole where the bolt fits through the shock...ie make the shock 'top' thinner, so the bolt screws into the chassis more hence u dont need to shave any off it! if this don't make sense...pls tell me! |
| ID: 1744 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Reserve tank fuel pump Question: My 5's been off the road now for quite a while as i've been restoring it. It's now about ready to go back on the road. I run it regularly and currently my fuel gauge says there's just under half a tank of fuel, but my reserve pump seems to run nearly all the time, plus the light on the dash doesn't come on until I think it should (ie. when there's hardly any fuel in there). So I lifted the rear seat up, took the cover cap off the float switch and shorted the central wire and the black wire, the relay behind the panel clicked and the reserve pump stoped running. Sorry for the essay. I don't know how the float really works and was wondering could some part of it have got stuck whilst its been off the road? Or whether it's another electrical fault somewhere else. Thanks in advance. Answer: You could have a faulty reserve pump relay....but its a pig to get to! Probably easier first, to get the actually sender unit out and clean that up first, as they can actually fall to pieces in the tank! just label the hoses up that goto the tank (accessible from in the car)- remove the wiring harness, then with a large screw driver and hammer, gently tap the black plastic ring undone, then lift the sender unit out. if it has fallen to pieces , then rescue the parts and put it back together! let me know how it goes! |