| ID: 1682 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bailey dump Question: ok i'll leave the porting to the experts...could you give me a dummys guide to fitted a bailey recirc dump please,i'll be replacing the anodised one thats already on the car using the t-piece thats there.i did a successful cup conversion today and it's a m12 thread in the elbow...according to the nut n bolt store,just for the record wise one. cheers again pete Answer: Fit dv to t piece. connect small pipe to ignition module line. connect pipe from recirc to turbo u bend. |
| ID: 1683 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: doors Question: wiz, my drivers door dosen't seem to shut fully, its not a flush finish, passenger side is okay, thing is my alarm keeps going off when set, is this a simple case of spraying some triflow (industrial lubricant, sorry if i'm patronising, i am actually an engineer, and i asking question on locks!!!!!) into the locking mechanism or could it be something else, i know that the doors are prone to sagging after a while Answer: I expect the sag from the hinges is stopping the door closing onto the striker properly. Try jacking the door back to its proper height (using a block of wood to prevent damage) If this doesn't help then adjust the position of the striker on the frame. |
| ID: 1684 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Indicator stalk 2 Question: If I move the boss around then the wheel will not be straight when the wheels are in the ahead position. I am limited to 1/8th turns if I turn the wheel on the boss due to there being 8 nuts on the wheel mounting. I don't want to get involved with changing the tracking adjustment just to solve the problem of the wheel being straight so I will probably just have to live with it. I may be able to remove the tab from the boss and drill in another kind of fixing. I don't expect there is a lot of stress on the tab. The material is pretty managable. This counselling page works a treat. Back to work! Answer: Let me know if you find a simpler solution. |
| ID: 1685 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rattle Question: my car has developed a rattle from under the heat sheild you think it could be just the clamp to the down pipe come loose?? it sounds like some exahust gas is coming out from the connection between the 2??? if not what you think it could be? Answer: Could well be! Do it from underneath if you don't want to remove the heatshield. |
| ID: 1686 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re bailey Question: yep cheers wiz i fitted it correctly today...i just need to get a minifilter on the carb breather outlet,with the cup conversion as well it's very responsive now...on with the group A carb next week,maybe i'll need some advice if it starts o fart around after it's fitted?.oh while your there i've up the boost (after the CC)it's now just under the boost redline (b4 it was halfway in theRL)...how much more can i wind the acuator adjuster in?it's still quite easy to get on as is,buggered one circlip though...it's lucky i carry a spare! cheers wise one pete Answer: You can wind it in as much as you like but the spring will weaken after a while. At your boost level i wouldn't waste money on a group A carb. |
| ID: 1687 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Alloy Intercooler Question: Hi Wiz, I've come across a second hand alloy intercooler for sale - It looks like the standard one, but has an alloy head welded on. Its in good condition but I don't know how much I should pay for it. Any idea who made these items and how much they were new? My standard intercooler needs replacing as it is leaking but I do not want to get ripped off. Any ideas? Thanks Will Answer: Pace, Forge motorsport and a few other companies make these intercoolers which are sold by most of the tuners. I would pay between £50-100 max depending on condition and how desperately you want it. |
| ID: 1688 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Head gasket again!!!!! Question: Sorry to be back with more questions about my cylinder head..sure u love them really!!! Right i left in the one head bolt by the dizzy, gave the head a tap to dislodge. Then removed the head etc and when i had there was water in each of the four cylinders?? Is this correct?? Would this be the cause of my masses of white exhaust smoke?? If the water in the cylinders is a problem, does it mean that the water would have got into my sump ?? What do i have to do to rectify this?? Sorry 4 all the questions. Thanks Liam Answer: Water from the head water jackets will get into the cylinders unless you have fully drained the system and block as you release the head. This is ok. Thing is, it usually gets into the sump as well. Make sure you renew the oil and filter before you run the engine. |
| ID: 1689 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Anti Perc fan - should I bin it? Question: Hey Wizz, I'm thinking of chucking my anti perc fan away (because it is pig ugly and big)and just using heat wrap to keep the fuel lines cool. Is this a good idea or should I keep the anti-perc fan? Thanks as always :) Answer: Bin it if it doesn't work or if you really want to! You must block the takeoff from the top intercooler to carb hose. Remove the perc fan and all pipework, including the valve on the bulkhead remembering that the fuel line runs through one of them. You could wrap the fuel hose or just cable tie it to the brake pipes out of the way of the exhaust manifold. |
| ID: 1690 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Negative Camber Question: Hi wizard, i have quite alot of negative camber on my front two wheels. i had the tracking checked and it was ok. Is there anyway that this can be adjusted too correct it .( the car has also been lowered). Please help. Cheers wizard. Answer: You can elongate the top mount holes and get a garage to reset the camber to about 1-1.5 degrees negative. or You can go to GT Tuning and buy their camber correctors. (not cheap!) or You could raise the front suspension again to get less camber! Number 3 is Not recommended ;-) |
| ID: 1691 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: odd handling Question: Hi wiz, My brother has brought a turbo and it is in good nick. When I test drove it I put the slighty light steering down to the wet roads and shit tyres. Unfortunatly we have now found that in the dry it does the same. The streeing is light and the car seems to skate around as if it is on ice. The inside of the nearside front tyre is bald aswell. Could it be a track rod or something else? cheers John Answer: Get the track rod ends and suspension ball joints checked, renew the tyres and get the tracking done. |
| ID: 1692 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no heaters Question: ive tested my fan on the battery and it works fine the fuse is fine and there is power at the heater motor connections until i connect the fan to them then the power goes any ideas is it a resistor inside the fan housing ? greatful for any help cheers sean.... Answer: There is a variable resister in the heater itself just below the fan connections. You can bypass it so the switch runs the fan at full speed only or renew the whole assembly as the part itself is not available anymore as far as i know. |
| ID: 1693 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: group A carb Question: wiz ta but what level of boost is a group a carb recommended..it's complete with 135main 90 air and i believed/told i could just bolt it on rather than take the carb thats on it apart jet it and put that back on!is there i big difference in bore size? I think i might have been conned into buying it:( i have more plans for the car so i might keep it depending on what you say...i'm told by the spot,lump dimpol thing on the turbo housing that it is a stage1 hybride...perhaps i'v been double conned not so cheery pete Answer: You want to be running at least 20psi to make a carb swop worthwhile. Never heard of that as a description for a hybrid before! |
| ID: 1694 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ignition key Question: Hi Wiz, Would you have any idea how I could remove a broken Ignition switch key from the barrel. It is broken about half way up the key and I don't want to have to go and buy a new barrel. Any help would be great. Mark. Answer: The only way you will get it out is with some very thin pliers or tweezers. |
| ID: 1695 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boiling sound again Question: ok wiz thanks i'll leave the group a stuff for the big boys...i've taken off and replaced the air cooled turbo with a water cooled turbo.Now theres still a boiling sound coming from the compresser.i've check and double checked it's not oil feeds and the waterpump is fine as is the compresion...i seem to be getting alot of what looked like smoke steam in and around the exhaust housing(small amounts but noticable with the bonnet up) ,at first i though it could be old oil burning off the housing...i've had to use this housing as the one that came with the turbo was cracked and mine wasn't.I don't have any water leaks but i am losing alot of water somewhere!!could evapouration be the answer?can the water jackets go in the compresser?is it possable to disconect the water feed and use it as a air cooled turbo and test for evapouration within the e- housing.the so called hybride has no markings as such,it came with a breaker we brought but the guy had a reciept for a s1 hybride and pointed out this marking.it was dirt cheap so it does'nt really matter if it is or isn't at least it's not smoking out of the exhaust anymore cheers again pete Answer: well, this is a tough one!!!! you can always hear boiling water around the turbo, after you've turned the car off, nothing unusual there. water jackets can crack!- but very unusual. you could have an eroded metal pipe that attaches to the turbo, a loose union, or even a micro-hole in the rubber pipe to the turbo, even a leaking plate at the side of the head! all could cause water to squirt onto the turbo. best bet is to run the turbo with no water cooling for a while and see if you lose as much water!!! |
| ID: 1696 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: valve seals? Question: hi there ive just fully rebuilt my engine and when i asked my local engine shop for valve seals he looked at me daft!! the thing is the engine was dismembered before i got it so i dont know if it had em or not? only reason i ask is im gettin a reasonable amount of smoke out the back but the turbos been recond but stood for a while cheers for any advice pete Answer: There are valve stem oil seals. Engine shop bloke must be thick! |
| ID: 1697 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: head gasket? Question: hi wiz iam losing coolant about the coolant bottles worth in an hour i know that the coolant is running down the back of the engine block and dripping of the back of the sump. when i open the empty coolant bottle it starts filling up and trys to shoot out! the temp of my car is fine until an hours driving later when it starts to overheat with steam coming out the bleed screws. the thing is there is no or hardly any smoke coming from the exhaust or mayonaise in the oil! i cant see any coolant hoses behind the engine are there any core plugs in that area or does it sound like a headgasket? thanks in advance! Answer: It sounds like a gasket but it could be down to air blockages or leakage. Are you sure the pipes to the carb base or manifold are not split or loose? These are quick to blow head gaskets if they leak. |
| ID: 1698 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: REAR WHEEL ARCHES Question: I have managed to remove my rear wheel arch, how would I put a replacement one on. I.E. the original bolts had to be heated off!! Are there special bolts you can get from renault or could i just use a screw that would be bolted into the wheel arch then a washer and nut put on to secure. How would i secure the screw in the arch so it remains there?. cheers Answer: The stud screws into the fibreglass arch moulding and a nut goes on the stud. |
| ID: 1699 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Gone? Question: Hi Wiz Can you help? i think my turbo's gone! (I'm new to this game) Symptoms include: 1) Oil in exhaust 2) Loads of blue smoke 3) No oil pressure And it sounds rough! cheers in advance rich Answer: It could be a major engine failure. Does the turbo spin up and boost ok? Try removing the inlet to the turbo and move the shaft up and down. There should be a small amount of movement. Then try moving it in and out. Any more than a fraction here spells knackered bearings. |
| ID: 1700 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel Question: afternoon wiz! is it true that the standard r5gtt can run on super unleaded and is the best example shell optimax? also, can i get 16"" inch rims under the arches (standard suspension)? Answer: Yes you can run super unleaded or optimax. You may get a little arch rubbing when loaded or cornering hard on 16's. Minor mods will prevent this happening even with the car lowered a sensible amount (30mm?) |
| ID: 1701 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pulled the keys out of the ignition and she kept running!! Question: Hi there Wiz I know you can help me .... Having major probs at the mo!! Came home after a visit down the pub, pulled up and let the car idle. then I switched the ignition off but the car kept running?? What the bleep is going on...??? in the end I had to disconnect the battery to turn the car off. I noticed that when I did pull the keys out a couple of light on the dash were still on?? Help me oh learned one?????? Your disciple awaits your invaluable advice.................. Cheers Wiz :):):) ......bit pissed ;) Answer: Sounds like one of two things. 1) The earth strap isn't earthing. or 2) The switch has had it. |
| ID: 1702 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 25psi 2 Question: Hi wiz, In your opinion what mods do I need over standard to safely and reliably run 25psi all day long. Answer: In many turbo bibles, it states that the max you can reliably run at is 23psi without detonation, much more than this and you will get problems. It's always a good idea to get a cam and maybe some head work done...a larger turbo also assists reliability at bigger boost, as the air it pushes into the engine is cooler than that pushed in by a small turbo. Don't forget an alloy intercooler also keeps things cooler than standard too! |
| ID: 1703 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cooling Fan Relay Question: Hello there, Car is R5 GTX 1.7, but i reck it has similar cooling set up to the turbos. My cooling fan wont work and it is definitely to do with the temp switch since if I bypass it the fan kicks in no worries. I replaced the switch and it still doesn't work..do I have a faulty switch?? I have read posts mentioning relays. I am dismal at electronics, could you explain what and where it is and how i can check if this is working? Much appreciated Mils Answer: how are you bypassing the fan?, just touching the wires togther? the relay is situated infront of the alternator nxt to the front cross member, on gt turbos. If in doubt, replace like for like, don't worry about what the relay does, just get one the same! :-) if the new fan switch is still not working suspect a dodgy connection with the alternator, or even a blocked thermostat, as this may have stuck shut, and is stopping hot water actually get to the fan switch! |
| ID: 1705 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boiling water after a run? Question: after a good run out and turned the engine off all i can hear is loud bubbling where the water is boiling away in the engine,when i go back to it there is never any water left in the header tank.any ideas? Answer: sounds terminal, your car is f***ed. only kidding! ;-) your water is getting a little warm...get a low temp fan switch, or maybe even a new rad, depending whereabouts on the temp gauge the rad fan cuts in! Also check the colour of the expansion tank cap..it should be blue if its a phase 2 gt turbo! The colour indicates the pressure rating of the cap. |
| ID: 1706 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: skirt brackets + fixings for arches, Question: hi wiz ,ive got my 5 gtt in for a full respray ,problem is the brakets that hold the side skirts have corroded over time, do you know the part no for these brackets,or a contact number where i could get any from as my local renault dealer is useless,ive been waiting for two months and they still havent arrived?also do u know the part numbers for the fixings on the arches, and any recomendations on how to re fix the skirt to the under side of the sills? any help would be great? Answer: have you got any brackets that aren't corroded?, cos you can get away with using two...one at either end of the skirt ;-) Failing that, it might be time to visit a scrappy. Maybe even a tuner has some lying around. I dont know the part numbers though :-( To fit the skirt back to the underside of the sill either use a nut, washer and bolt affair or just pop-rivet them. |
| ID: 1707 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Blown Up Question: Hi Wiz Help I think i've just died, here's what happen. Hope you can help? I was travelling along up hill 10mph in 2nd. When the car just gave way, loads of smoke out of the bonnet, then it was trying to stall and i stopped. Popped the bonnet and found oil everywhere. And it looks like it came from the dump valve. I turned it over and oil gushed out of the dump valve and it sounds like a VW camper van as well. I know the turbo was on the way out and thats obviously gone. But do you think that any other serious damage has been done? Cheers Rich Answer: It might be wise to drain the sump, and see if any of the turbo's internals have been washed into the sump. If so, then you will probably have to take the sump off and get all the bits out, making sure to clean everything!- you'll probably still get bits lurking, but unless you pay for an engine rebuild, this is probably the best option.- along with flushing repeatedly with very cheap oil,changing the oil filter a couple of times and investing in a turbo oil feed filter. |
| ID: 1708 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: polybushes Question: hello wiz,ive recently bought some poly bushes for the front wishbones and they are a different shape to the normal ones? the ends of them mushroom out which wont allow them to be inserted fully? i was just wondering if they are meant to be like this and you some how fit them in another way? any ideas?? the bushes are from rally design Answer: The bushes are a very very tight fit and the area may need a small amount of metal removing to get them to fit. |
| ID: 1709 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PSI Question: HI WIZ, I HAVE A 1988 R5GTT (79000) I HAVE A HYBRID STAGE 2 AND A PIPER X,AND I RUN IT AT 13 PSI SOME TIMES,IS THAT OK?THANXS Answer: well i don't know about that, 13psi seems alittle high to me...after all the 5's standard boost is 7psi...renault must of set it at that for a reason! ;-) to be honest mate, it'll be fine. On a standard carb set up 14-15psi is ok. :-) |
| ID: 1710 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dump valve flutter Question: hi wiz I keep hearing all these Escort's, Fiesta's and Scooby's dumping with a fluttering sound,which I think sounds great. Can I do this and how does it work. Answer: if you wanna try this at home , get a clamp, or clothes peg and pinch the vacuum tube that goes to the dump valve. then give it a drive and it should make a noise like a rattlesnake. Its called wastegate flutter, as found on cars with no dumpvalve, but you can get the d/v to do the same when the vacuum tube has either a blockage or a hole in it. |
| ID: 1711 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: breather noises Question: hi wiz i have just fitted my new samco breather hoses. i seem to be getting a strange sound from my oil breather i can only say it is similar to that of some one sucking the last bit of liquid from there mcdonalds drink. do you have any idea what this sound might be please and how i can get it to shut up. Answer: there should be a restrictor in one of the pipes near the 3 way breather junction at the back of the head. If you aint got it then this can cause the engine vacuum to suck hard through the breather system, hence causing the noise you are hearing. |
| ID: 1712 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: phase 1 to phase two Question: hi wiz, im looking into replacing my system to phase two, im aware that i need to allow for degassing chamber , perc fan and header tank, but will this set up cause difficulty with the phase one coolant hoses that both run from water pump side of engine into the bulk head, as i know this is different to the phase 2, also what is that strange looking device that the perc fan hose connects into and then into the main top boost hose behind the dump valve outlet,also will this set up give me a more reliable+cooler running engine, and what made the phase 1 s that little bit quicker than phase 2s, sorry for all the questions, but u know u luv em really! Answer: I don't think you can use the ph1 water hoses for the ph2 setup. The two hoses you are describing feed water to the heater matrix, and i think they are specially bent to shape, like most 5 GT hoses are! the strange looking device is surrounded by alot of mystery!- im sure i heard it was some sort of purge device, that allowed the antiperc fan to blow cold/clean air into the carb/ boost pipes to remove any hot/contaminated air, as this could cause starting problems. Renault changed the cooling system for a reason....it MUST be better :-P everyone states that the ph1 was quicker because it never had the electric pack, whereas the ph2 did (extra weight!). Apparently the ph1 is more aerodynamic due to the front bumper...so every little bit helps. |