| ID: 1652 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil boiling? Question: hi wiz back again with more turbo questions...i checked the engine after a medium blip and it sounds like the oil was boiling in the turbo housing,could this be normal?the cars temp is well low as i removed the thermostat ages ago,the cooling system was under no presure when i released the cap. any ideas cheers pete ps it still not smoking though Answer: If the oil is boiling then there must be something major wrong. Check that the oil return pipe isn't blocked and that the oil is actually circulating. |
| ID: 1653 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: more turbo stuff Question: hi wiz i forgot to say..when i changed the air cooled turbo to w-cooled i notice the water pipe from the w-pump had been split and joined with a air hose connecter!.the pipe from the w-pump is fine and fitted i had to make a new piece cut from a late p2 w-cooled turbo waterpipe i followed the haynes cooling diagram and believe it's flowing correctly.tommorow i'll check the pump is pumping water through the turbo housing.Thinking back it could well be water boiling in the housing and not oil,even though the water temp reading was low i imagine it gets pretty hot in the housing and the turbo seals can take that.after killing one turb i is a bit concern as you can tell..any ideas thanx oh wise one cheers pete Answer: I would bleed the system just to make sure you don't have an air pocket causing a problem. |
| ID: 1654 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Who are they? Question: Just a quickie! On the graphics on the side of my car, I've got the usual GTTurbo logo, but then on the doors I've got Radbourne Racing. Who are they and why are they on my door graphics? Cheers Answer: Radbourne Racing used to be a tuner for R5 GT's a good few years ago. I am not sure if they are still going! I expect they made the stickers to go with one of there engine conversions. |
| ID: 1655 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: cooling Question: When driving my five which is standard with an alloy cooler, it runs along the bottom temp line on the guage.As soon as i slow down/stop the temp rises quickly towards the second line on the temp guage.Normal five habit or sign or a knackered rad???Should it run so cool when driving as in a way by running just above the bottom line on the guage, it's not getting up to an ideal running temp is it??? Answer: I would guess that you have either a stuck open thermostat or no thermostat at all! It should run between the first and second segments (ie about 1/2 way up the gauge) The rising temp would suggest a non working fan or blocked rad. |
| ID: 1656 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil boiling sound Question: wiz don't worry about the previous question about this...it's the water boiling as it goes through the turbo,the waterpumps not pumping the water through the turbo so i am going to fit a new one(pump) hopefully this will cure it if not i'll be back:) cheers pete. Answer: okey dokey! |
| ID: 1657 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Gear oil Question: Just a small one Wiz, What type oil and what rating do i put in the gearbox and also my gearbox is leaking from the gear select can i change the seal from underneth the car without taking the box off and if so how hard is this? Many Thanx Answer: you want 75w90 gear oil. The seal can be changed and is within the scope of a competant home mechanic with a Haynes manual. |
| ID: 1658 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: no spark Question: no spark Asked by BATMAN on 11/1/2002 [back to list] Question: Hi Wiz Im not getting a spark to any of the spark plugs, what could cause this problem?. I have had a few ignition modules put on which either works for a bit, or doesnt work at all, but I get the same problem again and again. Im not sure if the module keeps blowing or not. Are they any other possibilites that you can think of for me to check? cheers BATMAN Answer: Sounds like the relay near the module is faulty. Try replacing or bridging this relay and your problem should be sorted. The Turbo Wizard I have the same problem what do you mean by bridging this relay? & how do you do it? Answer: connect the two sides of the power line through the relay together with a couple of spade connectors on a short piece of wire. or just fit another known good relay like the perc fan or rad fan relays. |
| ID: 1659 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Which Cam? Question: Hi Wiz, I am rebuilding a GTT engine and am considering an uprated cam. I have heard the Piper 285 is a good one because it gives more power and smooth running. Is it a good cam, are others better? I think some give rough idle, if so, do you know which ones don't or are there to many to list? Good power gains can be had from an uprated cam but something must be compromised, do the followers wear faster or the cam lobes not last very long due to the high lift and long duration or is that just rubbish? Basically, I am after a cam that will increace power but will give smooth running throughout the rev range, is it possible? Sorry about all that, hope you can help. Cheers, Doug Answer: You could try the cams from GDI, K-Tec or even the 285 as these are all good. They will not wear any different to normal cams. |
| ID: 1660 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil breather filter Question: hi wizard ,i have had a jr oil breather filter put on my r5 it is the one that should go to the turbo elbow ,on high revs it chucks oil out , it is above the stainless heat shield and oil is droping on to it and smoking and i dont want a fire please help ? Answer: You might have excess crankcase pressure if this is chucking out oil. Try cleaning out all the breather system pipes and if these are clean, get a compression check to test the condition of the piston rings. |
| ID: 1661 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: POPPING OUT OF 5TH. Question: Hi Wizz! i dont ask u much but here is an essay of a question. I need again your advice on the shit pile, My car keeps popping out of 5th. Its ok in all other gears, a little hummy in first at slow speeds. When i change into 5th the gear stick goes where it supposed to, but as soon as as apply throttle u can see it pushes the gearstick almost into neutral. Then when i let off (lol) it just slides into neutral, u can feel it pushing the gearstick backwards with your hand and i can keep it in gear (just) by pushing on it, but its on the edge all the time (abit like me). At the weekend i noticed that the tension spring that attaches to the gear rod to underbody was bust! but it must have been like this for at least 2 weeks as it did feel funny. Then when i picked a new one up from reno (£15!!!!) yesterday on the way back i booted it, as i just changed into 5th i had to brake hard for a corner, i heard what sounded like a stone bouncing under the car and then thats when it first popped out of gear! (could have just been a coincidence) Do you think its just the fact i havent got a tension spring on (i dont) or is it what mr haynes says in his little book that the 5th gear or syncro has come loose! If it is the above, can i just change the 5th gear stuff on the end of the shaft easily of is it a total gearbox overhall? can it be done with it still in the car? I am close to tears! lol damn it many thanks in atticipation of u telling me a good answer (if u havent fallen asleep reading this)! lol Answer: You could be lucky and the missing spring could be the problem but i doubt it! You can access 5th gear by removing the black end cap of the gearbox. I think you can do it with the box in its normal place by just removing the road wheel. |
| ID: 1662 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Oil guage. Question: Dear Mr. Wiz. Are you related to Wizadora? Also, since doing an oil change with some Mobil 1 15w50 my oil level/pressure guage only seems to work after the engine (and the oil to, I presume) has warmed up. Is this a dodgey guage? Also, one last thing, what is a good pressure when the engine is running? Mine sits around the 4 mark. Cheers. Jon. Answer: I expect you have a dirty or dodgy sensor. 4 bar is fine but 5-6 is perfect. |
| ID: 1663 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Power Steering? Question: Hi Wiz, Do you know if any GTTs' where ever released with power steering, I have never heard of it. Or have you ever heard of anyone taking it from another 5 and putting it on a GT? I am pretty sure that the track rod ends would fit, I think there are four bolts holding the rack to the car, i am unsure if they would fit(I suspect they would). You would have to use the lower part of the steering column(I think) that you would get with power steering rack but I dont know if it would fit the upper part or if you could just use the upper part aswell. Also, would the steering pump bolt straight on to the block? Would a drive belt for a power steering 5 be OK? Finaly, if you were to turn the wheel while the revs were low, the steering pump would use power from the engine and stall it. On 5's fitted with power steering, there is a little devise for increaseing the revs(located on the carb)when useing the power steering at low revs. Sorry about all that, hope you can help, Doug Answer: It has been deemed too much hassle for the benifits of power steering. Just go for a quick rack as you get more steering ""feel"" than with power steering. |
| ID: 1664 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Sooty Plugs Question: Hi Wiz, Obviously, you can tell alot about an engine from the state of the plugs. But my plugs are clean and golden brown around the insulator, but horribly sooty around the rest of the plug - is the car weak, lean or OK. The only reason I question the running, is that there seems to be buckets of power as soon as the turbo fires up, but very little up in the higher rev range (possible suggesting overfueling??) I've a 135 main jet and am running 18 psi of boost. The plugs are NGK Racing Plugs (and I think the heat range is 9) Any comments Thanks Will Answer: If there is any soot on them then it must be overfuelling somewhere as it should be uniform light brown all over on a happy plug. |
| ID: 1665 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: 25psi Question: Hi wiz, In your opinion what over standard is the minimum I need to run 25psi occasionally? Answer: I would say................ Hybrid turbo, Uprated head gasket, Uprated fuel pump, Larger jets, Decent freeflowing exhaust, Decent air filter, Strapped and flowed or alloy intercooler. You could do without any of this stuff but don't expect to drive the car home in one piece afterwards! |
| ID: 1666 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: BIG problem Question: Hello Wizzy, i've been bit of a silly boy and have now a nasty noise coming from the engine :-( I'm only running about 14psi though. Gave it full tilt to overtake, upto about 6k revs in 3rd, upto 4th and the fecka starts stutterin and running like shite. anyway, turn the choons down and i can hear a ""Bang, bang, bang"" from the engine. Pulls over and got towed home. Now it sounds like a fecked conrod........ just wondered if you thought it could be anything else (cheaper!) It doesn't seem to do it on over run , the engine still runs but sounds like it on 2 pots or sumthing and tick over is WELL lumpy. Cheers wizard Answer: Could be a few things but all involve engine strip so just whip off the head or sump and have a look! Sorry to hear about this Steevio as i know you have looked after your mota better than some/most! |
| ID: 1667 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: buying air correction jet Question: Where can i buy a 90 correction jet? Answer: Try any of the tuners listed in the contacts section of the site. |
| ID: 1668 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: squealing Question: wiz, recently i have noticed a very high pitch squeal, thats only audible with window down, sounds like its coming from rear, can't see it being pads as they were only put on few months ago Answer: It could be dirt in the pads or a wheel bearing. |
| ID: 1669 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Hmmmmmmmm turbo Question: wizard i have been reading some old questions regarding sooty plugs...my car also seems to have bags of power when the turbo cuts in but it does seems to die out a bit around 5000rpm,is this normal?.i think the boost is on about 14psi with a alloy intercooler,piper 2.5 exhaust and a j-r air filter.this is my first turbo car and i am a bit unsure on the normal or tuned performance apart from it's nippy,i've not re-jetted the carb yet as ever time i check the plugs there sooty!! please set me straight o wise chap cheers pete Answer: You may need a smaller air corrector jet (90-100) this will give you more fuel at the top end without affecting normal running. |
| ID: 1670 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Starting after storage Question: Hi wiz, I'm looking to get my car back on the road after it has been stored for a couple of years. You have advised another member, with a similar question, to prime the oil system before trying to start the car and prime the turbo before it gets turned over at all. Could you please explain what this entails and how I should go about it. Thanks. Answer: Pour some oil through the engine to lubricate all the parts and remove the turbo oil feed pipe to pour some oil directly into the turbo. Before running the engine disconnect the main ignition lead and turn the engine over on the starter, until a good flow of oil comes out of the turbo oil feed pipe. Reconnect ignition lead, start engine and allow to idle until oil pressure light goes out before revving. |
| ID: 1671 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Clutch cable Question: Hi Wiz, is it a common problem for clutch cables snapping ( approx every 6 months) If it is do you know if an uprated cable is available? Answer: It seems some people have this problem and others the cable lasts for years. Use a genuine Renualt cable and try routeing it stlightly differently to take any extra pressure of the cable. There is a new quadrant and pedal available from Renault which is said to improve cable life. There is also a convertion available using Volvo parts that make applying the clutch easier. |
| ID: 1672 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: overheating Question: got myself a 5turbo been overheating (big problem) so got new engine still overheating takes about 10 to 15 min to get real hot this is with my fan on, please help getting fed up with me 5 now, but dont want to sell it , could it be me runnig it on unleaded, water is flowing round nice help wizard, ps engine is 1 week old told it was running fine brought from intapart ADAM Answer: Although coolant may be flowing correctly, there is a good chance your radiator or thermostat is at fault. Using unleaded with incorrect ignition timing will cause the engine to run hot, it could even blow your head gasket. Get your timing checked and have a compression test done just in case. |
| ID: 1673 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: psi Question: how much psi when 1/5-1/4 into the shaded area Niels Answer: About 10-12 psi. |
| ID: 1674 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: intercooler Question: how do you flow the intercooler NIELS Answer: Remove the wax thermostat etc from inside the cooler and fix the flap so that the air is forced to go through the cooler all the time. This can be done with a screw through the side of the cooler or a better job can be done by taking the top off and making a new segment to fit in place. |
| ID: 1675 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Boost Upgrade Question: Good afternoon Wiz, I have a 1990 GTT with 137K on the clock (had it nearly 4 years now). It has been regularly serviced, has uprated brakes, a group N clutch, dump valve, new rad and brand new standard fuel pump. The car runs well and there is no smoke whatsoever on idle or when you boot it. I am getting a under the bonnet bleed valve + rolling road set up on May 1st. with re-jetting carb. I have been told that the boost will be increased to 14PSI. My questions are:- 1. What is the standard boost for a GTT (my boost guage goes between the B and O on full boost. 2. Is 14PSI a safe boost? 3. Will i notice a difference in acceleration? and what will the bhp roughly be? 4. If I wanted to go to 18PSI what further Mods would I need to run the car safely with total reliability? Many thanks. Answer: 1) Standard boost is about 7-9psi. 2) Yes as safe as you can be with a GTT! 3) Yes it will feel much quicker with about 140bhp and more torque. 4) Total reliability will require an engine in near perfect condition. Get a compression test done to see what condition your pistons and liners are in. Realistically you need a good exhaust and air filter, free flowing or alloy intercooler and maybe an adjustable timing sensor. Use 98ron unleaded or better fuel as 95 ron will probably pink at that boost. |
| ID: 1676 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: smooth as!! Question: Just booked my 5 in for a full re-spray, and asked if the guys there could make my tailgate nice and flushed. They said it wasn't possible. Bunch of idiots, cos as we all know its been done numerous times. I'd be well grateful if you could explain it in idiot terms how they do it, so i can give them instructions. They arent a shite bodyshop, they are probably one of the best in my area, but they said that they couldn't do it because there is plastic on the boot or something. Any ideas? Ta Answer: If you want just the number plate recess flushing then get a plate welded onto the boot with spray foam or similar behind it to stop any vibration. If you want the bottom section flushed as well then they will have to remove the plastic and make a suitable metal replacement section to weld in and smooth. |
| ID: 1677 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: home porting Question: hi wiz i now have a complete engine and intend playing with it over the next year...i'v got in bits at the mo.i was stripping down the head and notice most of the valve stem rubbers were off there seats...is this like a common fault , perfectly normal or never heard of? I am considering cleaning upt he inlet ports on the head...making them shiny and smooth...one of my friends advised against this as in gas flowing they use a bench set up with coloured gas etc etc..i wasn't intending to change the shape of the inlet chambers just smooth the casting out,i have the tools and the means.would you advise for or against this,i though aiding the flow of fuel would be a good thing? cheers again wise one pete Answer: You can do more damage than good if you don't know what you are doing with gasflow. Shiny ports can cause fuel drop out and poor economy/power. As for the stem seals, they are known to do this and need replacing. |
| ID: 1678 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: re: Dump valve not dumping!! Question: Managed to get hold of another diaphram and fitted it but there's still the same problem no dumping noise and it still feels like there's boost been lost as the turbo doesnt give a kick like it used to more like it builds up and it delivered smoother but with less effect - standard gauge still reads as normal. Any ideas on what else it could be and what to look at etc. Thanks. Paul Answer: Try checking the pipework to the dump valve and all the boost hoses. |
| ID: 1679 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: cobra seats Question: ello mr wiz i am bout to buy sum cobra seats off sum1 but i need to know if they will fit on the sub frame i got or will i have to get new 1s if so do u no any where that does um cheap coz thievin demon tweeks want £50 for just 1 Answer: You will need special subframes and Demon Tweeks are one of the few places you can get them from. |
| ID: 1680 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: cup actuator circuit Question: Wiz, i have just hooked up the cup modification,and before the mod my boost gauge was hitting 13-15 psi and now it hits 8-10 psi ,wiz is this normal.If so,could i turn my bleed valve back up to 13-15psi or will it be kicking out more psi than it shows???thanks Answer: It is normal. Just adjust the boost to suit. |
| ID: 1681 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Indicator stalk not cancelling Question: I recently fitted an 'Isotta' steering wheel to my car. It was supplied with a boss. When installed with wheels straight ahead and the steering wheel square, I presumed this would be the job done. It was perfectly lined up using the options available and I was well chuffed. Unfortunately the position of the cancelling tab on the boss is not in the exact same position as the standard one was, its positioned a wee bit further clockwise if you understand. This means that the indicator will not cancel after a left turn which is really annoying. It cancels fine on the right. Any suggestions? I can modify the boss if required but I need a good way of simulating the exact position of the tab. Answer: I have never experienced this problem before but you could try repositioning the boss or removing the wheel and just moving the bit around. |