| ID: 1622 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: query Question: Hi Wiz just a query for ya, If you remember rightly my head recently blew and was just wondering if this could of had anything to do with it. When my head was last done the garage found that the Rocker crank something or other, (head bolts go through it I think) had a bit cracked and missing off 1 of the holes, so instead of getting a new 1 they just put a washer on the top of it. Is this bad cos it seams like a half arsed way to do it and I wouldnt of thought it would of been very good for the engine. thanks in advance for any info Dale Answer: The rocker shaft has two head bolts through it at each end. A loose bolt caused by a cracked shaft will allow the head to warp. I would go and speak to the cowboy garage and maybe threaten them with trading standards or someone like that! Get advice from the Citizens Advice Bureau. |
| ID: 1623 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: heat shield fitting Question: evening wiz,i was just wondering the best way to fit the heat shield (i didn't take it off)...what do you recommend regarding a standard one? i've been debating whether i should do a cup conversion...if i did this it would make the removel/fitting of the shield easier. I just want to get it straight first...i take the carb pipe off at the elbow and block the hole,then i take off and block the acuator feed closeist to the bulkhead? and leave open the acuator fitting that that feed goes to and re adjust the boost to suit?i did read old questions first but i am a poor confused pete now (i think) enlighten me wise one Answer: Yo have the cup system correct. I also recommend binning the standard heatshield and getting a nice shiny one (from just about anywhere) or a kevlar one (from BB Tuning). |
| ID: 1624 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: lowering Question: My mate has just lowered my gtt. I has got -35mm chassis dynamics front springs. When adjusting the torsion bar we only went on click as i didn't know how low it would go. When we put everything back together and measured it had lowered by 70mm!! Does this sound right to you? It looks well nice but the front end now looks about 3 foot off the ground. My mate says the springs will settle and go down a bit more but i was thinking of clamping them to line it up with the back. Unfortunatly i can't drive the car at the moment to see if they do settle due to lack of insurance! Do you think clamping them is a good idea for now or do i have to fork out for a set of lower springs bearing in mind i am on a very tight budget? Cheers in advance Answer: -50 or -60mm springs will bring the car about level but it sounds to me like you would be better off raising the back end again. All you do is remove the torsion bar, set it at the height you want and refit it. There is no real one or two clicks! |
| ID: 1625 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Oil pressure (or lack of it) Question: When pressing the accelerator pedal on my gtt the oil pressure gauge drops to zero but rises again when i take my foot off. Do you have any idea what this is as i have asked around but keep getting told different things. I have been told that the guages are crap and it might just be that as the car is not smoking, rattling or loosing power. I would be grateful if you could help me out as if i changed all the things that people have told me that it might be it would be cheaper for me to buy a brand new engine, and a spare!!!!!! Answer: I would suspect the wires to the sender are furred up or loose. Clean and refit them before moving on to the engine connector under the header tank as these are often furred up as well. Gauges are also unreliable. Just watch out for the light coming on and then its time to panic! |
| ID: 1626 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: smoke from under heatshield Question: hi wiz, went for a quick blast down the motorway, got back home and smoke was coming out from under the heatshield. any ideas what it could be??? cheers wiz Answer: I would say the heatshield was burning due to getting damn hot! |
| ID: 1627 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Dump valve not dumping!! Question: Over the last week or so my 5 seems to have developed a problem firstly I'm convinced it's loosing boost somewhere then over a few days my dump valves got quieter and now cant be heard at all. The engines all standard apart from the dump and the standard boost gauge is still reading the same as always - any idea where the problem is - is it just that the dump valve is leaking and if so is this fixable or do I need a new one - I'm no mechanic so really have no idea. Answer: You need a new diaphram available from any of the tuners. |
| ID: 1628 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: heat shield...turbo smoke Question: hooray wiz it was a complete sucsess...theres no smoke and it has a healthy wizz to it vroom vroom!! i'll have to stick with the standard shield though as it's taken a bit of money to sort it out.i haven't done the the cup conversion but i had a good look at and i can see how it's done now.before i do it my boost needle goes up to half way in the red is that ok or should it go more or less? thanks again fot the advice pete Answer: that is about 14psi so is ok on a standard car. |
| ID: 1629 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: dizzy timing/ECU Question: Hello, I have recently rebuilt my engine and i have suffered a timing problem on completion. The problem is that i have had to unbolt the dizzy and rotate it clockwise about 3mm in order for the rotary arm to line up with the electrode in the cap at the point of sparking. The timing is so far out, that i moved the ignition leads clockwise on the dizzy cap, so 1 was now in the 3 slot etc and the thing started first time. Obviously, as soon as i apply pressure to the throttle it goes haywire and mis-fires all over the place. So, i put everything back in it's original place and advance the dizzy 3mm (approx) and it works fine, acceleration included. I have also tried removing the vacuum pipe from the carb to the ECU and it makes no difference. Two things: 1; i read the article regarding the 4 degree timing advance on this site (in articles) regarding the timing sensor leads. 2; I see that i can purchase a timing advance/retard from GT Tuning. Are any of the above the answer? Or have i seriously fudged things up somewhere? I have checked the static timing (crank/cam/flywheel/dizzy) and it is spot on. Any ideas, before i drive the car and it explodes again?? FYI: The block is from a phase 1 (including dizzy), but the rest of the engine is from a phase 2 (inc ECU). On the rebuild, everything went fine, the only fettling required was the oil return on the sump is smaller and i had to place a rubber insert into the tube to make it fit. The head from my phase 2 has been skimmed (twice now, since i have had it) and everything else cleaned and polished (with rags, not mechanically). The cam was never removed but the flywheel was (rear main oil seal replaced) but i marked everything before i took it off and returned it in it's original position. The only other thing, is a small vacuum pipe that runs from the carb front r/h side (r/h side as you look at the car) to where the air box used to be is not connected to anything. Cheers, Kind regards, Darrenb Answer: I will start at the end, the pipe is not supposed to be connected to anything it is an overflow for if a diaphram splits in the carb. Place it over the front of the engine to make sure that if it ever does spew fuel it goes away from the turbo and exhaust. If removing the ignition module pipe makes no difference then the vacuum advance diaphram may have gone. Try fitting a known good ignition module. You could try swopping the timing sensor wires and you can make your own adjustable sensor. Hold the sensor in a vice with soft jaws and knock the metal part through the plastic part to break the lugs and this allows the sensor to slide sideways with only a mild amount of pressure. Do this and then just experiment with retarding/advancing it a little to get it running right but be carefull of pinking. |
| ID: 1630 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: weird Question: now then wiz i am having slight probs! after i have driven for say an hour at motorway pace then pull up after 50 miles or so when i go to start it again it is completely dead? so we push start it then it is fine for six months untill i drive on an m-way again and it does it again? once its been started it is fine but i dont allways have people with me to push her could the intense heat be expanding somthing in the starter motor so when she is pushed it frees it . i have only done m-ways 2 times in it in a year and a half of owning it and it has happened twice? your widom would be much obliged!!!! Answer: It must be down to heat. Do you have the starter motor heat shield fitted? If not then this could well be your problem. If you do then i would suggest stripping the unit and lubricating the starter motor bearings. |
| ID: 1631 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: paint code Question: hi again wiz...now i have the engine sorted i need to spend some time on the bodywork:{it's not my strong point though.I've fitted a new front to a d reg pearlessant white with greyish standard kit etc.Do you knew the code for the bumpers and kit? Answer: The pearlessant white car should have body colour bodykit! |
| ID: 1632 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Speedo wiring... Question: Having had problems with me speedo, have traced the problem to the wiring. Someone at some point has cut the wiring just past the black connector by the air filter. My question is is there a connection plug to the gearbox sensor, or is the wiring intergated with the sensor. As if its not can I buy this wiring plug from Renault. Have made a repair but the wiring is really shot. Cheers Answer: The wire goes straight into the sensor i am afraid. I think they cost about £50 from Renault so you may be better off trying to get one second hand. |
| ID: 1633 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: box Question: Wiz, i have had an annoying fault with my gear selection now for a couple of years, and i think its time to sort it!! Thing is every time i want to select first gear, i have to tap the stick twice to the left, and then push it forwards into gear. If i just try and select first, it feels like there aint a first gear there!!!! Do you think its just a case of linkage adjustment, or has the selector bust??? All other gears are fine and there is plenty of oil in the box.many thanks............. Answer: I would check linkage first but it is possible that it is an internal fault with the box. |
| ID: 1634 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: smoking Question: My car is G reg with 87000 mls on clock,i,ve owned for last 2 yrs and covered 4000 mls.It,s recently had a clutch and scorpion exhaust fitted by my local garage.The cars always smoked slightly on overrun but now if left on tickover for more than about 5 mins blue smoke is emitted,if i then drive off i get a cloud of blue smoke which clears quickly and all is well again.P.S its totally standard other than exhaust,my thoughts are turbo or valve stem oil seals.Is there any way to prove which other than changing as both jobs could prove costly.HELP!! Answer: I would say it was more likely valve seals as your turbo would go fairly quickly after it started smoking. Speak to Andy Cutler at Grey Devil Industries as he can renew the seals without removing the cylinder head. |
| ID: 1635 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: idleing Question: hi wiz, my engine has just recently started to idle really badly, the tick-over sounds irregular and fluctuates between about 700 and 500 revs, sometimes even lower! occasionally it splutters like its gonna stall but never does. It sounds pretty rough. I'm gutted because when i bought the car, a month or so ago, the engine note was sweet as! Whats the problem and solution, are we talking carb, or something more major? Thanks, appreciate your help. Jon0 Answer: I expect the idle jet is blocked. It is behind the large brass screw on the drivers side of the carb. Remove and clean it. I would also check or renew the fuel filter as it has probably been neglected in the past. |
| ID: 1636 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Cutting Off & Blowing Exhaust Question: Wiz, I am at the end of my tether. Having decided against buying a ""proper car" Answer: like the folks had advised me too |
| ID: 1637 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: piston or diaphram dv? Question: Which type of dump valve is best for the 5? Ive heard that you shouldnt use a piston type on the 5? Answer: I have seen no proof to not use a piston dump valve but i think that diaphram ones sound better anyway. |
| ID: 1638 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Cooling with an Oil Cooler Question: Hey Wizz, Now I have a 9 row Mocal oil cooler can I chuck the standard Renault radiator and replace it with one that doesn't have an oil cooler in it as well? What would you recommend? Should I keep both? Answer: Yes you can bin the std rad and get another to fit. (R5 diesel?) |
| ID: 1639 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: roll pins Question: hi wiz now i have the engine sorted i can finally move on...i'll be replacing the door pins soon and was reading a previous question regarding right angle drills(i have one) and bits,what size drill bit would you use to drill out the old pin? cheers pete Answer: You knock the pins out and then drill the hole to 8mm and get 8mm roll pins from any good motor factors. (Not a specific part for he R5) |
| ID: 1640 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil in the cooling system Question: Hi, I have oil in the cooling system (the whole sump) have drained it and have a replacement engine 2 fit just wondered what do u reckon it could b? mucho grasseoh Jamesy Answer: Must be down to either a blown head/gasket or a internal rad leak. |
| ID: 1641 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: arch liners Question: Hi, another phase 1 , phase 2 question for you. Are the plastic front inner arch liners differrent between the two phases. thanx again. Answer: I don't think there are any differences. |
| ID: 1642 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: motorway driving Question: I use my car very regularly on the motorway, and im beggining to get annoyed at the speed I can go. Because its obviously not good to be turbo'in the car for the whole journey, but cant seem to go past about 55-60mph without the turbo kicking in. All I wanna do is 70-75 like the rest of the traffic and not be stuck in the slow lane with the trucks. Is there any kind of trick to driving at high speed without the turbo?? Or is it just not a motorway friendly car?? Cheers wiz Answer: The turbo is fine on the motorway as long as its not on mega boost. You can sit at around 70mph with only about 2psi of boost which is fine. |
| ID: 1643 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Flushing my cooling system Question: Hey Wizz - me again!!! Can you recommend something in addition to my hose pipe and 500 gallons of water to properly flush out all of my coolant system? Seen loads of products that are meant to work but can I have your opinion please oh mysterious guru!!!? Answer: Rad flush helps. Allways remember to flush from the bottom hose to push the crud back out the way it came rather than forcing it through the rad. |
| ID: 1644 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: spiting oil Question: my turbo is leaking oil if i take the pipe off from the turbo to the cooler and rev the engine it chucks oil out is my turbo knackerd and can it be repaired my cooler keeps filling up with oil Answer: You can get it rebuilt with new seals and bearings for around £150-200 |
| ID: 1645 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Head Gasket Question: Me again wiz.... Right, i have got my head gasket set from bb tuning but before i do the change i need to ask some questions; (1) What are the three small circular gaskets in the kit used for? (2) It says to check that both the head surface is flat and the engine surface. I am getting the head skimmed but how do u check that the engine surface is flat? (3) What do i clean both of the surfaces with? Thanks. Answer: 1) I think you mean the rocker cover stud gaskets. (about 1cm round?) 2) Use a known straight edge and feeler gauges to check for warping of the block. 3) Use a stanley knife blade to scrape off the general gasket etc and a solvent type cleaner to get rid of any left over glue etc. |
| ID: 1646 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Cutting Off & Blowing Exhaust II Question: Wiz Checked the idling screw and it's still there. Apparently there is no problem with the carb, and the exhaust is also OK. So my mechanic tells me. He suggested getting the Intercooler looked at as this will obviously cause problems with the mix. What would you advise me to do, Europarts is the nearest to me (all of a 250 mile trip though), my mate seems to think that the Intercooler may be loose, as I've recently had a Adj Boost fiited and this may have had an effect?!?!? Oooh I'm lost! Any advice greatly appreciated! Ta Tud Answer: Next thing to check would have to be manifold and carb gaskets as if it was the intercooler it would still run ok but would be down on power. |
| ID: 1647 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Turbo/Manifold leak Question: Wiz, Recently the joint between the turbo and manifold has started to leak with me.I removed the turbo and cleaned both surfaces with light emery paper and block, replaced the turbo and it still blows and the bolts are as tight as they go!.could i fit a gasket between the two surfaces?if so, what material should be used for the high temperatures and where would i get one Also, would you be able to give me a dummies guide to hooking up the cup circuit,i have a bleed valve fitted,cheers mate! Answer: You can get a proper gasket kit from Renault i believe. It is a compressable metal gasket. The cup circuit - Remove the metal pipe from behind the turbo elbow and block the hole with a suitable bolt. Follow this pipe back to the carb disconnecting it from where is goes to. Disconnect the rearmost actuator pipe and follow it back to the carb top blocking the outlet that it goes to. This should leave you with just the front actuator pipe going to the carb top and a blocked outlet on the carb. |
| ID: 1648 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: paint code stuff Question: oh sorry...i think i'm a bit colour blind..which helps,it's the colour the PW cars kit should be but is that the normal paint code found under the bonnet? I'm very new to bodywork...i have a clue about engines,have patience with me o wise one pete Answer: Yes paint code is on plate under bonnet. |
| ID: 1649 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: can Question: please help me what size wheels i am on 15's at the mo phase 2 clio valver wheels but im bored!! should i stick with 15's or go to 16's? does handling suffer a lot on 16's or should i go balls out on 17's is it worth changing or shall i just leave it? does 16's and rear passengers happen or not or is it just 17's that knacker up that? cheers fella Answer: 15's are probably best if you want to carry rear passengers more than once in a blue moon. 16's and 17's are not so good for handling as they raise the centre of gravity unless you do loads of arch work to lower the car more. |
| ID: 1650 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Jets and fuel consumption Question: Im looking to fit an adjustable boost kit, to limit the boost whilst going up and down the motorway, then turn it up when the mood takes me. Will rejetting the carb to 135 /90, for the higher boost make the mpg worse on the motorway, even with the boost turned right down??? If so how much difference will it make. Cheers Answer: Bigger jets WILL make the fuel consumption worse. I am unable to say how much worse. |
| ID: 1651 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: large discs Question: Hi wiz looking for your expert knowledge again , ive got a 285 disc conversion but the discs are worn know they are old and served very well but where can i buy just the discs are they from another car? cos the notor factors just look confused when i tell them they are a conversion for r5 and i dont want to go back to a certain tuner i got them off but i need to stop stop stoppppp arghhhhhh . cheers Answer: Try rally design as they sell the discs on there own. |