| ID: 1592 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: r5 oil pressure readings Question: wiz is there an oil pressure sender for the pressure or is it a a pipe into the dash?.the car does suffer from electrical corrosion and my pressure reading is completly random!...i just can't help looking at the reading,it bounces from 4 to 1 up to 3 down 0 up again to 1 and on and on and on.even with new 10/40 semi syn,theres plenty of oil at the rocker shaft. could it be 10/40 is to thin should i go for thicker mineral oil? help me o wise one cheers pete Answer: Most people seem happiest with 15W50 oil like mobil one motorsport. The sender is locted in the bottom of the pipe that comes from the front of the engine to the turbo. It is round with two wires coming out of it. It could also be a problem with the large engine wiring connector located under the passenger headlight. |
| ID: 1593 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: How much BHP? Question: I've heard that by adding an in car adjustable boost kit, the 5 will be able to push out around 170-180 bhp, is this true? For such a small mod at not much money is'nt that a bit of big gain in power? Is it really worth getting one?????? Cheers WIZZZZZZZZZZZZ Answer: It is not the kit that gives you the power it is the boost that you turn it up to. It is just a bleed valve but to get 180bhp you need to do other things like rejetting and realistically a decent air filter, exhaust, intercooler etc etc To get 140ish bhp then adjust the boost to just inside the red shaded area of the dash and this should be fine on standard jets. |
| ID: 1594 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Large Dumpings - Hot or Cold? Sniff or Vent? Question: Hey Wizz, I'm lucky enough to be getting a FM intercooler soon and was pondering where to put my dump valve (no obvious answers please ). I thought they were better on the cold side (between intercooler and carb) but other people say on the hot side (between turbo and intercooler). What do you think? Also it is a recirculator dump valve so does the pressure difference make any real difference assuming that re-circulating dump valves are of any real benefit anyhoo anyway)? Ta much. Answer: The dump valve wants to be as close to the carb as possible to prevent a buildup of back pressure when the throttle is closed. A closed loop d/v will be quieter and is a benifit if you have the air filter mounted directly on the turbo and the vented pressure aimed directly at the turbo blades. If this isn't the case then a normal d/v will suffice, its up to you. Personally i like the sound of the Forge motorsport Group A valve as it is loud and doesn't sound like a sneeze like some valves. |
| ID: 1595 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: loads of heat Question: hello wiz,as ive only been in the club a year and i aint no mech head, so go easy with me. the problem is when i boot it for a long strech the engine temp gose well into the red, it cools down eventully but its not too good when im haveing a bit of a rag with someone,its a new turbo(run in 500 miles) ive replaced most of the hoses, and is running with a low temp rad sensor(new)ive flushed her out 3 times and all levels are spot on im running it at 1.3 bar but want to turn it up a bit more,the turbo is equivelant to the mdr14( i think thats right)any ideas would be helpfull cheers glenn Answer: This description usually equates to a blocked rad. Flushing it out won't always do the job i'm afraid. |
| ID: 1596 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost gauge pipe with fluid inside? Question: hello wiz I have a new pillar mounted boost gauge which i have plumbed into the vacuum pipe running from the dumpvalve to the ignition module. Is this right? its reading minus figures on tickover (its not mot'd yet so can road test). Because I have a clear pipe I noticed fluid in the boost pipe near the gauge not long after installing it. Is this ok? Answer: There shouldn't be any fluid in the line but it is possible a little has been blown in there under boost. The pipe should be plumbed into the carb to ignition module line not really the dump valve line as this could cause false readings. |
| ID: 1597 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: crank shaft oil seal Question: ive recently rebuilt my engine and the only problem i have is leaking oil from the crankshaft oil seal. i bought a new one from renault and noticed its slightly different in design to the old one. Your help is much needed as im using about a gallon of oil every 2 1/2 weeks. aaargh cheers boyo Answer: It looks like you will have to renew the seal but i can't help you with it! |
| ID: 1598 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: breathers again Question: I have taken all the breather hoses off, blocked the holes in the manifold and the u shaped pipe, and have fitted little crankcase breathers one on the r/c and one on sump return near the water pump. My problem is i have tryed the filter directly on the sump return hose and instead of oil fumes coming out, oil leaked out of the filter. So i thought ill put the oil separator back on and put the filter on the top hole and block the hole in the middle of it, because i know the oil mist travels in to it recondenses and travels back to the sump that way it would not reach the filter and leak out of it only the excess fumes would come out but no that didnt work oil just came out again. Shall i block the top hole and put the filter on the middle one, or can i just block the sump return completly and just use the filter on the r/c, will this be sufficent as all the leaking filter is doing is letting oil out. sorry about the long winded question, awaiting your reply with antisipation Cheers Graham Answer: If lots of oil is coming out rather than mist then i would say that you have an over pressurised crankcase and need to look at that before you go any furthur. Get a compression check as you may have worn piston rings which are over pressurising the crankcase forcing oil up the pipe. |
| ID: 1599 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure Question: cheers i'll try them..sorry i've just got back from stripping a gtt breaker and i have some questions and a boot full of goodies. i took off a complete w-cooled p2 turbo with all the waterpipes and alloy topped i-cooler with the intention of converting mine to w-cooled and hopefully sorting the occasional smoking prob...the oil feeds look the same just in case are they?the pipes from the turbo go to the carb and w-pump so that looks straight forward am i warm?.But the exhaust side of the turbo is cracked inside by the fins...the exhaust part seems to held together by four bolts can a good section be bolted on?.the guy had it running when i got there but had said the turbo took time to boost up when he had driven it back from one less gtt owner!,is this crack the prob or could it be something else wrong..(the acuator didn't look to good)? i've just found out to remove a dash without breaking it...not the best idea renault have had?lets hope i can do it again! a lot to answer appologies pete Answer: Never appologise for asking questions young man, thats what i'm here for! The oil pipes are the same and you are on track to fit it all. The exhaust housing is usually cracked on GTT's but on most it seals with the heat expansion and isn't normally a problem. If in doubt get it reconned before fitting to prevent any problems in future. I expect the slow boosting up is more likely the actuator. |
| ID: 1600 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: arse!!!! Question: nearside drive shaft has snapped off inside the rubber boot and all the little pins are bouncing around in my box ive got a spare box (every gtt owner should!!!!) so thats not the problem can i use a 1.7 gtx n/s drive shaft as my mate has one but i dont want to fit it if im gonna snap it or sumthin thanx wix Answer: I would just go for a new shaft from someone like GSF. They are about £40-50 if i remember rightly and are worth it for the peace of mind. |
| ID: 1601 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hose connection diagram Question: Not just for coolant, but for oil as well... is there somewhere I can get an exploded diagram of ALL the hose connections on the engine? Some of mine are missing, others have been moved and I'm not sure where they should all go, especially the little ones around the back of the carb/manifold. I'll probably buy the full silicone hose kit, but I doubt that'll have fitting instructions for each pipe. Is there some handy place to get such a diagram? Thanks, Alex Answer: I don't know of one off hand but i will look for one and get back to you. |
| ID: 1602 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Horn problems. Question: hello again im really bad with electrics so here goes................. my horn stopped working and someone tried to fix it, didnt and left it in a mess. I have bought a new compressor, asked renault for a relay and they said that the horn has a fuse but no relay! I know I have half a relay attached to the compressors housing but there isnt a top cos i can see its internals/pins. SHould there be wiring down to this relay or wot? Haynes is gay and I really dont know what to do about it - YES i am thick (when it comes to electrics - on renaults). Thanks in Advance! Answer: The wiring should be there or there abouts, dropped into the inner wing maybe? The relays are all the same in the engine bay. |
| ID: 1603 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo screem Question: HI wiz i think me turbo is on the way out ! as when i put me foot down as the turbo gets up to speed the thing screems at me! so is it dead? Also which replacement do you think would suit my car best? I have large alloy intercooler,in car controller,dump valve,induction kit,full stainless? cheers phil Answer: I would say that either the turbo is hitting the casing of the housing or the bearing has seized and is spinning with the shaft. A large intercooler asks for a large turbo! I would say go for a T25 hybrid. |
| ID: 1604 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: breathers 2 Question: there is not oil coming out all the time only seeping and i took the piston rings out and checked them when i did the head gasket about 6000 miles ago. the worn one's were replaced. is there anything else you suggest i check. Cheers Graham. Answer: Your new rings might not be bedded in yet or the old ones might be leaking pressure. Get it tested to be sure. |
| ID: 1605 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo stuff Question: oh young man... yeah thanks for that...my main intention is to find the smokin prob,the cheapist way possable! then if i do i'll get a hybrid later (no re-cons)if you confirm this is fine to do i'll carry on as i've only had doubts about the crack in the exhaust housing.What i will do is put my exhaust housing (if it's not cracked)on the w-cooled turbo and hopfully there will be no more random smoking as this turbo is smoke free (at the mo)...i've had the exhaust housing apart and looks pretty simple to change over(apart from lining it up but i should get that ok) so want do ya think am i good to go? thanks to your help and my elbow grease the engine will be 100% a1 if this works! for the moment of coarse! just to double check are the front w-bearings pressed in? cheers pete Answer: As long as you take your time and do it right it should all go to plan. Yes wheel bearings are pressed in and can take quite a few tons of pressure to press out again. |
| ID: 1606 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: have i blown new turbo??? Question: ok its late and im giving it some round the lanes, and bosh no more power the turbo sort of boost and then the car just shudders and no gooooo,im gonna check all the hoses in the morning and try to spin inside the turbo itself is there any other indications that i should be looking for????? (new rad be replaced on the weekend) ta Answer: Sounds more likely to be a loose or split hose or the intercooler has burst. |
| ID: 1607 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 2 dump valves ???? Question: Just afta some help please, as i've mentioned a few times now, i'm doin the volvo conversion. i've spotted a recirculatin dv on the boost hose that run from turbo 2 intercooler, i want 2 fit a piston type dv just b4 the inlet manifold ( injection ). should i leave the original 1 on ? take it off?, or upgrade it? the engine also has 3 spare? pipes off the inlet manifold. they r bunged at the mo but can i fit a vacum gauge to 1 n a boost gauge 2 another? if not wheres the best place 2 attach either gauges, thanx again, chris Answer: The ECU may need a closed loop d/v to run properly so check with Volvo. I don't see why you can't fit the gauges to those take offs if they are spare. |
| ID: 1608 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ""Knocking noise!"" Question: I have a knocking noise, on acceleration and not on idle, which is loud at the best of times. It is not as heavy as a big end and sounds very much like the top end. I took the distributer leads off to check the cylinders and the knocking was reduced without the number 4 piston. I then took the rocker cover off to check the valve springs etc, which it was none. - what can this be? a piston slap from a worn number 4 or little end bearing! i thought if it was little end it would also knock on deceleration? Should i put a new lump in, to save the effort of taking the head and sump off! p.s can i buy a new perc fan from renault cos the bearing has gone in mine? Any help would be greatly needed! Matt. Answer: I think your best bet is to strip and rebuild as there is an obvious problem. |
| ID: 1609 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 1.7 engine Question: wizard, As you know you can get a 1.7 automatic engine for the 5, i was thinking of swapping the block over from that to my uprated 5 engine, what would i have to do to acheive this? would the 5 gearbox work, or be to close a gear ratio? regards! Answer: Let me get this straight, you want to use the 1.7 engine in your 5. This is a different type of engine and is not a straight swop. The gearbox however fits both engines. |
| ID: 1610 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Speedo packed up Question: Hi Wiz! My speedo has been on the blink for yonks! Flipping up and down the counter as and when it pleases. Now it's packed up completely - not even a slight jitter (even when going over bumps). The speedo counters have both stopped flipping over too. There's absolutely no life in any of it whatsoever. Any ideas where I can start looking for the fault? Cheers! ;-) Answer: Check out the big black cylindrical connection for the grey cable found near the air filter. If this is ok then try the connection on the back of the dash. Next try another dash from a known good car. Finally, if this is ok check or renew the gearbox sensor. |
| ID: 1611 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: more turbo stuff Question: oh yes i'll not be rushing it!...i've been checking out the water hose set up and it is a lot different on a phase 1.My expansion chamber has only one outlet at the bottom but i can get the 2 outlet expansion tank and all the hoses,but just to check are the waterpumps the same on p1's and p2's? the alloy i-coolers don't fit very well!...the rubber strap holds in place but it seems very loose is this normal? cheers again pete Answer: Water pumps are the same. Intercooler straps stretch but it may be down to the alloy cooler being thinner or shorter. |
| ID: 1612 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: waters broken?? Question: I recently blew one of the hoses coming off the water pump, i got it replaced and its not leaking or anything! But ever since that day when the hot water came spraying out and emptied the engine almost entirely of water, I'm losing about a tank of water every day. Any suggestions? Also on braking theres a consistent knocking noise coming from the rear on the drivers side. All the discs and pads were replaced six months ago so any ideas there either? Cheers mate Answer: Water loss is down to one of a few of things. 1) Leaking outside engine somewhere. (pipe, rad, water pump) 2) Leaking inside engine (head gasket, cracked head or liner) 3) If the car is not bled properly then it seems to drink water, probably in steam losses. Try bleeding it under pressure when cold. ie blow into header tank to force coolant round the system. Braking noise is down to brakes (warped disk or sticky calliper) or possibly rear wheel bearings. |
| ID: 1613 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: G/Box Oil Leak Question: I hope you can help! I recently changed my gearbox oil and ever since I now have a leak. I've done the obvious and double checked the oil level and it seems fine, maybe, this is just a coincident but can you advise? (It seems to be coming from the bell housing area, where there is a half moon metal plate which the front engine mount is also bolted to.) If it's necessary for me to remove the gearbox is it possible to do so with the engine still in place? Thanks for your help. Answer: Sounds like the gearbox input shaft seal has gone. Sort this soon or oil will contaminate your clutch. I expect the level was low and the oil gunky before which hid the leak. Its easier to remove the engine and gearbox as a lump in my opinion and you can sort any other little problems at the same time. You can remove the box by dropping the subframe but i only did it once as i thought it was harder and not a lot quicker. |
| ID: 1614 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: why the smoke Question: i recently rebuilt my engine about 5000 miles ago, ive been running at 10 psi with a stage 1 hybrid for about 3500 of those miles then turned it up to 14 psi, anyway, its all been great and running spot on till this week. My dumpvalve started to perish so i took it off till i get a new diaphram. after this my car has started to blow light blue smoke from the exhaust. first it was only after stopping after a journey, at traffic lights and so on, but now it does it at idle. i also put a different make (cheaper but ok oil) of oil in cos the crankshaft oil seal is leaking and didnt want to buy expensive stuff for it to get wasted while i wait for a new seal. could the sudden smoking action be caused cos i removed the dump valve along with the increased boost, i think it might have dislodged some carbon which might have been making a seal somewhere. sorry for the big script but im sure it will give you a better idea, cheers Answer: It is most likely that the cheaper oil is actually thinner and this is why it is leaking past the valve stem or turbo seals. Less likely but possible is it could be that your leaking d/v was causing the turbo to overspeed and this has damadged it. |
| ID: 1615 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb Jets Question: Hi, could you advise where I can buy the 135 Main Jet & 90 Air Correcting Jet for my carb? Many Thanks. Answer: Try any of the GT Turbo Tuners or buy the drills the correct size and drill the jets yourself. |
| ID: 1616 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: WATER INJECTION Question: I have a well modded 5 and im going to up the boost soon.I already have low comp. pistons and a full engine re build with wire ringed liners and all the rest you would expect.My turbo is capable off up to 27 psi so im thinking of running the car at 25 psi for short blasts and the qm.I have a ERL race water injection kit which i got dirt cheap and have heard good things about them and bad.I know it wont increase power and is really just there to stop detonation but will it do any harm to the engine ,or reduce power? ALso where is the best place to put the nozzle ,i was thinking dump v/v t piece or top of intercooler on the outlet side.Thanks for you help Cheers Dave Answer: Fit the system if you don't want pinking at 25psi on normal pump fuel. You ideas of where to put the nozzles are fine. Get it set up straight away or you could cause problems in the engine. |
| ID: 1617 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Gauge Question: Wiz The other day I asked about fluid in my turbo gauge pipe, I also mentioned that I had tapped it into the dv vacuum pipe that leads to the ignition module, I was going 2 change it as u gave the answer below:- The pipe should be plumbed into the carb to ignition module line not really the dump valve line as this could cause false readings. But....can u tell me why this may give false readings because since lookin at the layout in my engine bay, they both seem to lead to the same place - the ignition module. Sorry 2 be so thick but if i dont ask...................................................i wont learn! Answer: False readings was probably not the best description. Readings seem to fluctuate the further away from the manifold you get. |
| ID: 1618 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Blown engine Question: There I was floored in 5th at 5200rpm when white smoke started to pour out of the exhaust then I noticed that the temperture gauge was as hot as it can get so I stoped and the fan wasn`t working any way I drove a long way to get home with the car like this. The next day I started the car to see what happened and it over heated the fan didn`t cut in white smoke steam and water came out of the exhaust the water level droped and the oil looks thin too! what do you think has gone? Answer: Head gasket definately, head warped probably, liners split possibly! You should never drive anywhere with the car in the red hot zone! You may have added hundreds to your repair bill. |
| ID: 1619 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: WARNING hot but not!! Question: hi wiz, quick one just had my engine steam cleaned 2 days ago and since then the coolant temp guage rises very quick and the red light comes on!! the car is'nt hot,do you know which wiring connector i need to look at/clean up? cheers phil Answer: I would say to check the fan switch on the right hand side of the radiator. Take off the wires, short them together and the fan should work. If it doesn't then check the relay located on the plastic panel next to the radiator behind the alternator. If the shorted wires do bring the fan on the the switch has gone. I have just re-read your question and noticed you said the car is not hot. I take it you mean the radiator is not hot. If this is the case then your thermostat may have gone. |
| ID: 1620 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boot lid Question: hi, do you know if the boot lid (part with renault 5 gt turbo on it)is the same fit for phase 1 and phase 2. please help.thanx for your time. Answer: Yes (There that didn't take up much of my time now did it!) |
| ID: 1621 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: What is going on??? Question: Hi wiz, Me again, Right i decided to have a better look at my car to see what is up and this is what i found. The breather pipes are all clogged with goo, the shaft on the turbo can be moved about 5-6mm,losing water (header tank a week), loads of white smoke from the exhaust permanently, but it seems to run ok in general. So do u think my head gasket and turbo are both dead??? thanks. Liam. Answer: I would have to say yes. :-( You can confirm the headgasket with a compression check but the turbo has way too much play. |