| ID: 1562 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ongoing saga! Question: Hi Wiz As you probably know im having trouble with my car boosting up slow, so far this is what ive done... new turbo, new sparkplugs and leads, flowed intercooler, checked hoses, cleaned air filter, checked dumpvalve diaphram, checked anti perc hoses... only thing i can think of is timing, would this make much diffrence? any other ideas? also i was told for a cup conversion the pipe to the carbtop goes on the fitting nearest the front of the car (p2 i think) but i have seen a pic of a car with it on the rear fitting (p1?), does it make any diffrence which one it goes on? One last thing, could it just be a case of the actuator being set low at factory,although it does get up to 1 bar.......eventually! Cheers, again! Answer: Timing will make a difference if it is a long way out but it is unlikely unless you have actually stripped it down that it will be out that much. The foremost pipe on the carbtop has a smaller diameter inside compared to the rearmost one so try swopping it over and see if it makes a difference. |
| ID: 1563 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: volvo turbo Question: I have started to strip my volvo turbo motor down and have found that the turbo is pretty shagged.can i bolt a GTT hybrid/standard turbo unit straight on? It's a Garret T2 i think! CHEERS Answer: If the holes line up to the manifold then yes! You can always turn the compressor housing around to line up with the boost hose position. |
| ID: 1564 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoke @ Idle Question: Hi Wiz, Ive just recieved my KTR 180 hybrid form K-Tec Racing.After fitting and changing the oil to moblie 1,i took my car for a drive.I did about 10 miles the pulled up at home i left the car ticking over.After about 15-20 seconds there was white/grayish smoke coming from the exhaust that smelt of oil.I took the blower off and there was lots of oil and signs that oil had been leaking past the oil seal in the turbo.I sent it back to K-Tec they phoned me to say the turbo was fine .....So what now ,the old turbo did`nt smoke,David at K-Tec said check breather pipes do u have any ideas? plz help. Regards Steve Answer: Yes check the breather pipes and clean them all out if need be. Mobil 1 is too thin for a GTT unless it is the 15w50 Mobil 1 motorsport. It could be valve stem seals leaking as well, especially with the thin oil. |
| ID: 1565 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Catalysts Question: Just a simple question, do i need 2 have a cat on a 'D' reg 5 as i'm gonna do the volvo 1.7 conversion n wanted to hav a centre exit exhaust with a straight thru centre section from downpipe 2 box, also how would this affect the runnin, obviously the backpressure will be less n i know peeps who hav suffered from leaky turbos, thanx again Answer: You don't need a cat on any GTT. |
| ID: 1566 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Quickshifts Question: I've just read the article RUSS sent ya a while ago n i'm thinkin of doin the same, cuttin the lever down, but ma mate suggested just knockin the lever thru thus adjustin the linkage point, i've not had a gud look at the lever yet but the quickshifts from demon tweeks r about £230, n i don't need it that badly, cheers again Answer: I suppose if the lever will ""knock thru"" then it would work but i have never heard of anyone doing it this way. |
| ID: 1567 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rattle Question: Hi wizz, when i brake theres a rattle from the rear, sounds like something is loose, I'm assuming it'll be the brakes playing up. Any ideas? jon Answer: Could be the pads are loose, maybe due to the pins coming out. |
| ID: 1568 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Got the shakes! Question: Wiz, I dont post here much cause I know everything already!!! ;) ....but, I have a problem.! This is the first time in 3 & half years I've not owned a 5 turbo. I now have terrible nightmare's that is causing me to loose sleep, often waking up with 'the shakes'!!! Will this pass or do I have to go out and buy another GT Turbo as soon as possible, even if the other half doesn't approve, or will my Clio turbo (once its finished!) bring me as much fun (& hastle!) as the GT Turbo did? ps. Why didn't we see you at the AGM.? :) Answer: Well young Barry, The symptoms you describe are inherrent to the dreaded Supraonlynogtturboitus and are only cured by regular injections of GTT. A Clio is a pathetic attempt at the replacement but may help a little in the long run. There were a lot of people in the AGM, whats to say i wasn't there! May have shaved off the beard and left the pointy hat at home! ;-) |
| ID: 1569 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: White Smoke Question: Hi wiz, I changed the tdc wire on my car and that sorted the idling problem, now onto the next problem. My car has got quite a bit of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, am i right in thinking that this is water?? If so, what does this indicate?? thanks Liam Answer: It could be a build up of condensation or water getting into the exhaust from the head/gasket/liner. You will notice water loss if it is mechanical. |
| ID: 1570 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Idle!!! Question: Hi wiz, just wondering if you can help, my car idles at 1k until i stop at lights/junction then it drops down to 4/500 then it rises again, i also get this problem when the rad fan cuts in,the engine is standard apart from j.r filter d/valve and scorpion exhaust,i have changed the carb 4 my m8`s who`s runs very well and no different,please help as the other half`s complaining, thanks in advance. biggsy... Answer: could be down to throttle / choke cables sticking or it could be ignition related. Check all the ignition componants like plugs, cap, rotor arm etc |
| ID: 1571 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Squeeking Question: Hi Wiz When my window is open I can hear a squeak coming from the front of the car, well sounds like it is coming from the off side front wheel. It is more noticeable when I've been driving around for abit, it does it more when I turn the steering wheel to the left a little. Could it be anything to do with the brakes? cheers John Answer: Could be but i would suspect the wheel bearing. |
| ID: 1572 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bonnet bolts Question: Wiz, having just removed my bonnet two of the bolts on one side have sheared.Is there an easy method to replace them . Answer: Not really. Either weld on new studs and get the bonnet sprayed or get another bonnet. |
| ID: 1573 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: White Smoke ctd Question: Wiz, I am getting white smoke and also losing about a headers tank worth of water a week. I also have oil in my boost hoses(quite a bit too). Does this point to a head gasket?? thanks Liam. Answer: I would say it is a good bet. Get a compression test done to confirm it. |
| ID: 1574 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Help! Question: Hey Wizard, Pls can you help? Just fitted a new cylinder head to my 5 with an uprated gasket and bolts. The problem is when i accelerate the turbo spins up and all of a sudden i loose all boost and it feels like the whole car jerks. What is going on can you help me... Cheers Wizard. Answer: You may have a problem with the fuelling or sparks blowing out. Is the car backfiring or just ""jerking"" |
| ID: 1575 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Question: Hi wizz, sorted my loose brake pad out thanks, My question now is what sort of boost could i safley run with the following setup, without changing the fueling using optimax? Strapped flowed I/C piper x cone SS exhaust to come Silicone boost set and what sort of power should i get at your proposed boost? Also how many turns on my in-car adjustable boost dial will equate to an increase of 1 psi as i dont have a boost guage? The turbo boosts up to about the B or O on the guage so i'm assuming its running around 7 pounds at the moment, help as always appreciated, jon. Answer: Pleasure to help with the brakes and now to the boost! I would say that 12-14psi would be fine which equates to part way into the shaded area on the standard gauge. It should be good for about 140+bhp. Your estimate is correct for the std boost. I cannot tell you how much to open the bleed valve as it is a delicate adjust and test procedure. Open it a little, test drive and adjust again till you are happy, then mark it. If you have no means of setting the maximum boost level under the bonnet then i suggest you get one before you accedently open the valve too much during a race!!! |
| ID: 1576 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: filter/breather???? Question: hi,iv got an piperX filter and a std set up on the breather side! do you think it's worth investing in an breather filter?if so which? many thanks ken! Answer: Any small breather filter will do the job. Don't forget to block the hole in the pipe where you take out the breather pipe from. |
| ID: 1577 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Perking up! Question: Dear Wizard, I was talking to two members over my ticking over engine (as you do!) As the engine got hot the Anti -perc fan cut in, but not the main fan (the dial was into the last quarter ) When I switched off . the main fan cut in with the a/p fan continuing to blow. They both thought this was unusual. What should be happening? Regards Steve Sheldon. Answer: The rad fan is controlled by the coolant temperature and the perc fan is controlled by the carb and turbo temperatures. They are indipendant of each other and will work at different times. It is unusual for the rad fan to come on late so you may have a dodgy thermostat, rad switch or air in the system. Try bleeding first with the engine cold and then if that doesn't work, test the thermostat. |
| ID: 1578 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: AX GT Turbo? Question: Oh Wizadora! i've been looking at fitting my spare lump into a mates AXGT, what do you think are chances? I've got the whole kit, kabang and kaboodle just its just a matter of shoe horning the lump in? Honest opinion please wizard as we feel this could be something very special indeed!!! Thanx FLASH Answer: Anything is possible! I would measure everything before starting work and if it looks like it will fit, remove the AX lump complete and put the GTT lump in less all the ancillaries at first. Then start to build the engine back up with manifolds etc I expect driveshafts will have to be made to fit and exhaust, engine/gearbox mounts made from scratch. |
| ID: 1579 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoke, but new turbo??? Question: Hi Wiz, You solve one problem and end up with an even worse one, isn't life fun well last week the cam sprocket shear the key off of it so obviously the cam no longer turning etc etc... Right everythings back together now new sprocket with key, timing cover back on and car running fairly sweet. Theres a slight oil leak coming from the timing cover, but thats about it. Ive now done about 10 miles max and the cars started to smoke out the exhaust (oil almost deffinately), now the turbos brand new (about 150miles max), there is a little play about 1mm either way on the turbine shaft, but isnt that okay once the turbos run in? So what could it be?, please dont say turbo, as i said its only done 150miles after 200quid re-con at ITS. And the oil feed pipe had loads of oil coming out when installing it. Possibly a bent valve from when the cam sprocket cam off? but there was no smoke when initially starting the car once the sprocket was back on and if it were that then it would smoke from the start, wouldnt it? What does anyone suggest i do apart from kill myself , Cheers Wav Answer: 1mm each way sounds like a lot of play in the turbo. Is there any in and out movement or just side to side? It could be valve stem seals or even cracked valve guides related to the cam problem. Ring ITS and ask them about the play and see if they will check the turbo for you for free. |
| ID: 1580 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Help 2 Question: Wizard, The car only back fires when I accelerate realy hard. Its not so much a jerking its just such a noticable power loss that the car just stop accelerating if you know what i mean. Could it have anything to do with the crankcase ventilation because I was having a look at this and from what the haynes said I have my hoses attached to the air cleaner the wrong way round but i'm sure they have always been this way! where the vetilation hose comes out the rocker cover its going into the side of the air cleaner and the vetilation hose from the turbo to air box pipe is going into the top. Is the haynes right because it shows them the other way round?? Could this be the problem, leaving too much pressure in the crankcase?? Surely as long as they go in to the air cleaner it wouldn't make a difference? If this isnt the problem could some one have a look at there car just so i know which is the right way round. Cheers Wizard all help appreciated Nick Answer: Are you sure the car isn't hitting the overboost switch? As long as you block the holes in the manifold and air filter pipe then you can remove the breather pipes and just use a little filter on the rocker cover or have the pipe just going to the oil seperator with a filter on that. |
| ID: 1581 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Help 3 Question: Wizard, Someone else has suggested that its hitting the overboost switch and to be honest i didnt know there was such a thing! Where is the over boost switch and what is causing it to hit the over boost switch coz as far as im concerned i'm only running standard boost! cheers wizard Answer: The overboost switch is sticking out of the pipe that goes from the turbo to the intercooler. It has 2 wires coming from it. If the car is standard then you should only be seeing the boost reading between the B & O of turbo on the standard gauge. Go for a drive and if the boost goes towards the red shaded area before the backfire then it will be overboosting and the switch will be cutting in. |
| ID: 1582 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Compression test Question: I have just done a compression test on my gt turbo engine, can you give me an idea of what the results should be. The gauge reads in psi, starting from the flywheel end i got 110, 110, 109, and 110. Answer: The results vary from car to car but them all being the same (or near enough) is a good sign. It looks like you are on standard or even lower than standard compression. |
| ID: 1583 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bleed valve Question: Hi Wiz! If I open my bleed valve as much as it will go my boost gauge go`s up to 20psi so if I want to run more boost do I fit another bleed valve and open that a bit? Cheers Dan P Answer: If you are using a standard turbo and actuator then it won't go any higher than thereabouts anyway. You may need a stiffer spring in your actuator if it is a rebuildable type. |
| ID: 1584 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: slight loss of power+ occasional stall Question: hi wiz ,when i boot my renault from third -fourth-fith gear it seems to hold back sometimes, it also jerks only for a couple of seconds , then picks up again with no probs,could this be turbo lag or a fuel problem at higher revs,the car is running 16 ish psi ,and has alloy inter / uprated dumpvalve, air induction kit/ breather kit/standard carb/120 main jet, its been rolling road tuned up to 19 psi and the fuel mixture reading was fine/not to weak. the turbo is fine no smoke or strange noises/fuel filters r fine also,could it be time for an uprated fuel pump or is it just down to turbo lag it only happens at higher speeds 70+mph at gear change, also if i really blast the car in 2nd and keep my foot down and then slow right down the engine cuts right out, but when driving normal its fine, and wont stall ,it idles fine also no erratic revs? strange any ideas? cheers Answer: I would say that you may be running a little on the weak side. You could also try adjusting the accelerator pump to give its maximum boost of fuel when you boot it. It could be a weak fuel pump or even a partially blocked filter. If you haven't changed the fuel filter in the last year then do this first and let me know how you get on. |
| ID: 1585 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: swift alloys Question: My mate has been offered some alloys off a suzuki swift.Will they fit? Answer: If they are 100x4 pcd with 35mm offset and the correct centre hole size then yes but if not then no! |
| ID: 1586 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure Question: the oil pressure gauge on me dash is reading bout 4 when i first start it but when it gets a bit warmer goes down to about 1,some ppl have sed it cud b the oil pump if so how do i check to c if it is,if its the gauge have u got the fone number for gsf pls? Answer: It is more than likely fine. The renault gauges and sensors are not particularly accurate so as long as the oil pressure warning light doesn't come on you should be fine. You could always try a thicker oil to see if it brings the pressure up. |
| ID: 1587 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rear quarter glass locks Question: Hello, I have a minor problem with my rear quarter windows. One of the (drivers side) closes fine, with a good seal, but the other side never stays closed. I have tried several different approaches, changing the brackets, mounting seal and the entire arm that attaches to the body but to no avail. Whenever i have driven for 5 minutes or if i shut the door (any of the front) hard enough, the thing just pops open again. When it is in the locked position, it seems quite sturdy (as sturdy as one of those locks can be!). Any ideas or mods that exist, apart from screwing the window shut?? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards, Darrenb Answer: There is nothing i know of. All i can suggest is to try and replace the pin with something thicker to make it stiffer. |
| ID: 1588 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Help 4 Question: I did wonder what that does. Thank you wizard. When driving my car the boost is going in the shaded area sometimes it is going right the way round to the top of the shaded area! Is this telling me that i'm running more than standard boost!? I've been lead to believe that the performance of the turbo increases just before it goes? is this true? Could this also mean my turbo is on its way out?? Cheers wizard. regards nick Answer: You are running more than standard but it may be down to a leak in the actuator pipework. Have a good look round the pipework and joints. The turbo doesn't go better before it blows as the bearings etc don't actually touch the shaft, it runs on a film of oil. |
| ID: 1589 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cylinder again!!!!!! Question: Dear Wizard' Since I last wrote you with the saga of the wrong cylinder head and the Tappety noise from the back/middle of the head/block,I have changed said head for the proper article but the tappety sound is still there.(I know its not tappets as I've Feeler Gauged the gap whilst running.) I have now stripped out the pistons etc and discovered no 3 piston has a siezed oil control ring and the piston wall is worn in one section. Is this the cause of the noise do you think? (all the bearings/shells seem ok.) Can I get away with just changing the rings on the offending piston and reassembling everything else? Cheers Steve Sheldon. / Answer: I would say if you can stretch to a set of pistons, liners and bearings then do it but if not then just change the offending piston and liner. It could be that this is your noise but (I can't remember) have you checked the exhaust manifold for cracks? |
| ID: 1590 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: GRAPHICS Question: I AM MISSING GT TURBO STICKER FROM LEFT HAND SIDE OF MY CAR.WHERE CAN I GET ONE ,EVEN IF I HAVE TO GO TO A SPECIALIST. I LIVE IN WREXHAM N.WALES SO THE NEARER THE BETTER. Answer: If you can't get one from Renault themselves then goto any local graphics shop and ask them if they can make one for you. You could always take the sticker off the other side to match! ;-) |
| ID: 1591 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: a/p fan Question: hi there i have just got a e/89 gtt but the wires to the antiprec fan are melted and some are missing is the any pic are can you tell me how to wire it up so the perc fan will work again. thanks paul foster. Answer: I don't know about a wiring picture and i am too old to be playing with these new fangled camera things. Try asking on the boards for some young whippersnapper who has a camera to take a picture for you. |