| ID: 1532 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Got a feeling its the DShaft... Question: Hi Wiz, Have had a look at previous q and a's but still a little unsure, my car is making a noise between 40 and 70, outside the car it sounds like a bird chirping - inside I can hear/feel a metallic rubbing. This noise is very intermittent and only seems to start after about 20 mins of driving...I think it occurs more if I gear down/lift off acc. quickly. Thanks in advance --Andy Answer: If you are unsure what to look for, get the car checked at an MOT station. It could be driveshaft or wheel bearing based so get it looked at soonest. |
| ID: 1533 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: induction? Question: hi wiz,ive had my piper x induction air filter on a long time now,but ive been thinking about puting the old one back(std air box) as ive been told before that the std one is better because of the heat from the turbo even with the heat shield on the turbo & the one suppled with the piperX can you advise me please!many thanks ken. Answer: An open cone with a good cold air feed and heat shields will be better as it is unrestricted by the inlet like the standard filter. At standstill then a standard one may be better due to the extra heat protection. Try mounting the cone nearer the front of the vehicle and feed it cold air with ducts. |
| ID: 1534 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: choke Question: when starting from cold,it starts as normal but when its not warmed up enough it revs high and low as though its missing but its not,as soon as it gets to normal temp its fine.could it be thermostat. Answer: I very much doubt it. It is more likely a dodgy or dirty plug or dodgy lead. If these haven't been changed lately then get them done. |
| ID: 1535 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: styling Question: have you any information on how to make my 5 gt turbo into a convertable Answer: Just chop the roof off! ;-) There are far too many differences in the body to turn a GT into a convertable. You could try Renault for a shell and hood etc but i expect it would be either too expensive or they wouldn't have any. Just keep your eyes peeled for one of the rare proper convertables for sale. (£4k upwards) |
| ID: 1536 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: 2 stage boost Question: i have heard about a new 2 stage electronic boost kit for £50 in CCC. if you have seen or heard of it does it fit the R5 and where do i get 1 from. i was thinking of a blitz unit with remote boost button on steering wheel but for £350 i think ill give it a miss for now, cheers wiz........................ Answer: Knowing CCC the boost kit will be made from commercially available parts on a DIY basis. I haven't actually seen this yet but will keep my eyes peeled for it and update you as i go. |
| ID: 1537 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil feed return pipe Question: sorry back again wiz with questions galore...i've been hunting for this pipe today and the results aren't to good.from renault the pipe is £49 and will take a couple of days,this is a short and fat one ( on there computer)which they got from my engine number.Gt tuning don't stock a pipe to fit my r5 because it's a D reg!,the pipe thats on it is short and fat, the pipe gt tuning stock is short and fat but the tell me i need a long and thin one (oh er missus)whats that all about is there a difference or is someone pulling my short and fat one? To be honest i don't even know if it's a P1 or a P2,with the wheels,anti perc fan and air cooled turbo i'd say it's a P1 or a P2!!!..see what i mean i know nothing. whats the difference in a phase1 and a phase 2 please mr wizard. pt2...i've been to my local tuning shop and they stock straight half inch bore steel braided hose,£15mtr as long as the bore is he same would it be ok to use this?. I'd make sure there was no kinks when i fit it and the bore looks about the same but i'd measure it just to be sure, it's rated to 150psi or 10bar what do you think should i stay with the main dealer or try the braided hose? cheers again wise one pete Answer: You could try the braided hose as long as it has no kinks and allways runs downwards towards the sump as to not cause a restriction. There are various differences between phase 1 and 2 but in general most parts are interchangable. |
| ID: 1538 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: how much power? Question: Hi wizard, i own a Renault Clio,I know its not a five but it has a five GT Turbo engine in it!It has an exhaust,airfilter,uprated headgasket and bolts and a dump valve.My next mods i was thinking of is group A carb,strapping the intercooler and running 15psi,what sort of power should i expect to get from these mods?Obviously weight of car being bit more than a five will make some difference!Also if you have any ideas of other mods that may work well with the ones ive listed and still be realiable! Many thanks Des Answer: The group A carb is not really necessary at 15psi but i would go for an alloy intercooler for reliability and extra cooling capabilities. I know people running 20 psi who have never had problems but they are the lucky ones. You could go for 18psi with a rejetted carb and intercooler and maybe even an uprated cam and head. The power will be very noticable even at 15psi as it will be an increase of about 20-30bhp or 20-25% |
| ID: 1539 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: 134 miles Question: Hi wiz Sorry to bother you but da motas got probs....again... Well, changed plugs (gapped em etc) leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, had emissions set up 0.9 ish. Its all serviced but still i'm only getting about 140 miles to a whole tank of fecking Optimax with castrol valvemaster + Octane. I might as well have a TVR tuscan S at this rate. There are no visible leaks/ drips of fuel, and its not as if I can smell it pouring out of the carb, So what do ya reckon is up with me wee monster?? Respect Munish (MunSta) Answer: Heavy drivers right foot? It must be down to how big your jets are an how much boost you are running. |
| ID: 1540 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil seal Question: Dear Wizard, I've got a slight oil leak from the seal around the bottom pulley. Can I change this , engine in situe , and do I need to remove the sump? Haynes says yes but is it necessary,its so much more hassle? Regards Steve Sheldon. Answer: If you mean the full circular seal around the crank then you can probably get away with it but if you mean the half round seal between block and sump then you will need to drop that end of the sump at least. Sump is easy enough to remove but you will need to replace both end seal and the gasket sealant for the rest at a cost of about £15 from Renault. |
| ID: 1541 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Stalling at idle Question: hi Wiz, I did what u said and turned the idle screw but it is still stalling at traffic lights etc. It seems strange because when i turn the screw it idles at just where i want it to. i then take it for a drive and at every junction etc it stalls. thanx Liam. Answer: Set the idle to around 900 and see how you get on. |
| ID: 1542 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: HEAD 2 Question: Hi If it turns out to be the head either cracked or gasket would it be better to get another engine?. are 2nd hand engines expensive and hard to get hold of? .since ive had the car ive had the problem with erratic revving, when i rev it at idle it drops down slowly then sticks at 1 1/2 revs for bout 5 seconds then it will drop to 1. i know people with 5`s who when rev it drops straight back down no prob. do u reckon the engine has seen its day and is time to put it to rest, with 79,000 mile on the clock i would of thought it should be a fairly sound engine still cheers mate Answer: Second hand engines are a minefield as some are good but most are more than likely worse than what you have already! Get a good second hand head (Crack tested and skimmed) or a new one is only a couple of hundred quid. Try the tuners as they may have a modified second hand one lying around! |
| ID: 1543 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: how much boost Question: wizard ive rebuilt my engine everything is ok and ive put a uprated gasket and bolts in also a uprated clutch every thing on the lump is standard but ive got a md14 turbo with 360 bearings the carb has been re jetted and ive got the usual scorpian silicon hoses and strapped and flowed intercooler plus dv how much boost can i run safely as the carb isnt a grp a one and the fuel pump is standard im running at fifeteen psi now safely but the boost bug is biting and i dont want to pop oh and what jets would you recomend if i can run more boost thank you . Answer: I would say that about 18psi is the realistic max but you could get away with 20psi but this is close to the fuel pump and carbs limits. 135 main and 90 air corrector will be somewhere close for 18psi but get it checked to be sure. |
| ID: 1544 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: wheres my boost gone? Question: hi wiz please could u help me with this prob? when i was pulling full boost tnite 18psi half way up the hill my boost all of a sudden dropped off,i let off throttle and floored it again oh no only 6 psi boost,i pulled over could not c anything obvious no horrid sounds or smoke! t morow i will strip all the pipes off clean and c if there is a split pipe,i will also take the carb elbow off to c if there is any restriction in there,if i dont find anything what is the next step to take? ps the turbo sounds to be working as normal the dump valves also sounds ok! will contact u soon cheers jay!!!!!!!!!! Answer: I would look at the pipes to and from the intercooler first then the intercooler itself as it may well have split or blown off an end cap. |
| ID: 1545 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Do i need the perc fan??? Question: My perc fan is inoperative and i was thinking about getting rid of it. I do suffer a little with hot start problems but i can live with it. Anything i can do to improve it? I have heat wrapped my exhaust and plan to do the exhaust manifold as well to keep temps down. Will this help? Also it takes a couple of attempts to start when cold even using optimax and a carb overhaul. Could the fuel pump be on the way? It does whirr a little when it wont start. Lots of questions, hope you can help Answer: If you want to bin the perc fan then do it. I know loads of cars that it made no difference to anyway that are better off without it as the engine bay looks a little tidier. Venting the bonnet will be the best thing to get rid of heat under the bonnet but wrapping the hot bits will help. Fuel pump may be worn if it has never been replaced. |
| ID: 1546 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Stalling at idle 2 Question: Hi wiz, Me again, i set my idle to 1000rpm and still it is doing it-although not as bad. The idle seems quite eratic now..if i come to a stop and catch the engine b4 it stalls then it idles at 1300rpm b4 dropping down to 1000rpm then dropping to stalling point again.The car does actually drive fine , the problem occurs when i am stopped. What is going on because this is driving me crazy. I have had a go at wobbling the tdc wires too because i have heard this can be the problem. Thanks Liam Answer: Have you cleaned out the idle jet lately? |
| ID: 1547 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: 134miles pt II Question: Hi wiz I'm running 15 psi boost on a stage 1 Turbo Technics. 130 main jet and standard air corrector. And I drive like a wimp!! Havent got the heart to give it the large right one cos its only giving 140 to the tank when I drive like my granny. HELP!! Right foot is itching servely Answer: Try refitting a standard jet as it should be fine for 15psi and will save you fuel. Run it for a couple of tanks as a comparison. |
| ID: 1548 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: ""Headbanger"" Question: Dear Wizard, Since the catastrophic failure of the cylinder head on my wife's Ph 2 on the M1 recently, I have replaced it with a S/H head which I've had skimmed (the original was totally U/S ) and also swapped the rocker gear and valves.However with it back together, there is a loudish metallic clacking noise from the top rear of the head/block like a tappet but noisier.I've readjusted the tappets but the noise is still there. The car goes OK, any ideas? The head is actually from a non turbo i.e. without the bottom row of manifold studs ,is this likely to be a problem in the long term as regards leaks etc. Appreciate your comments as always. Steve Sheldon. Answer: If it is from a non turbo then the compression ratio will be shot to F*ck! Get that head off and a proper turbo one fitted before you blow it up! |
| ID: 1549 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Understeer, understeer & more understeer Question: How do I get rid of it? No matter how hard I accelerate into a corner when I lift off I just get more understeer. I've got koni adjustable shocks front and rear, -45mm springs at the front. I did have the rear lowered by a similar amount but I've raised it again to try and get more weight over the front. Any suggestions??? Answer: Don't let off! Haha. No seriously, control the car on the throttle and use a little brake to bring it back into line if need be. |
| ID: 1550 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Stalling after a blast Question: Bonjour Wizzy, this has happened twice now. If I blast off for about 20 meters than have to stop again, say joining a busy road then stopping straight away for lights the car has coughed and died, I can then start it and it is fine? It did it this morning as I went from one set of lights to another but I caught it by bliping the throttle until it settled? any ideas? Cheers beardy Claaarkio :-) Answer: Try cleaning out the idle jet on the carb as this may be a little clogged. |
| ID: 1551 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: ""Headsoff....."" Question: Dear Wizard, Thanks for your promt reply regarding non turbo cylinder head.Now are you sure about this head being incompatible with the turbo as the two castings look identical except for the lack of 4 extra studs for the manifold. The combustion chambers look to be of the same dimensions etc. I thought it was the shape of the piston tops that changed the compression ratio? The chap in the machine shop said they were the same as well as two other supposed knowledgable sources.However if you feel that catastrophe is imminent ,I shall bow to your superior knowledge! Regards as always, Steve Sheldon. Answer: There is quite a large compression ratio difference between the turbo and normally aspirated cars and i don't think it is all down to pistons. Your best bet is to double check with Renault themselves. I have made the odd mistake in the past, not many but you never know! |
| ID: 1552 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Heading off again! Question: Dear Wizard, Please ignore my previous missive regarding cylinder head etc. your reply to my first enquiry obviously panicked me somewhat(as you can imagine!) so I sought a second opinion from Keith at Prima who are fairly local.He concurs with your advice so it looks like I'm going to be busy again... just when I'd got my hands clean as well!.....oh well. Cheers Steve Sheldon. Answer: My pleasure young man. Seems i wasn't wrong, nice to know i still have it! ;-) |
| ID: 1553 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Stalling At Idle 3 Question: Hello Wiz, Me again... I did what you said and i removed my carb and cleaned every jet in it. I put it back on, turned up the idle screw and it still stalls. If i turn the idle up to 1700rpm it idles fine but obviously this speed is way too high!!! Then when i turn the idle down it moves all over the place, eratic idling i believe. It idles at 1300rpm, then goes to stall so i catch it with the throttle and it then moves up to 1000rpm, then up further again then starts to stall again. The car is fine when it is being driven, it is just when you come to a stop, so would this indicate that it is to do with tuning rather than something wrong with the engine internals?? sorry to keep bugging you. Liam. Answer: Try removing the torpedo shaped piece in the idle jet to allow more fuel in at idle. |
| ID: 1554 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: No indicators Question: Wiz, My O/S front and side indicators have stopped working but the rear flashes but at a fast rate.I checked the fuse,fine,changed the bulbs and still nothing.So tested if i was having feed to the connectors and there was nothing but i have feed at the rear.i'm starting to get confused.Also there a relay but i havn,t checked it because if the relay was gone wouldn't all of them stop working?Any other ideas wiz on what it could be. Answer: It sounds like a break in the wire/circuit before the front indicators. Try tracing the wiring to the front from the fuse. |
| ID: 1555 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: cracked head Question: i have been told by my garage that my no.2 cylinder bore is cracked. The car seems to be running fine what should i do?? get a new cylindar head??? i dont want it blowing up in the future cheers wiz Answer: I take it you mean there is a crack in the head at no.2 cylinder rather than the bore. If the crack is between the valves, then this is fairly normal and doesn't usually cause a problem. If the head is cracked elseware then it will need repairing or replacing. If it is the bore or liner as it is called, that has a crack then it must be renewed straight away. |
| ID: 1556 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: spark plugs Question: do u know the part number for the ngk racing plugs,the 1s in the red boxes?? Answer: Try B8 or B9 EGV |
| ID: 1557 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: bleed valve Question: Hi! I recently bought a 3 way bleed valve(on the fly), fitting a two way it´s easy, but a three way don´t know how! Can you help wizz? Answer: A 3 way bleed valve is meant for in car fitment. The top two pipes are for the actuator pipes and the third one is the exhaust return to the engine bay to stop fumes getting into the cockpit. |
| ID: 1558 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: cylinder head 2 Question: thats for the swift reply wiz, all i know is that as the guy said "" no.2 cylindar bore possibly cracked"". should i therefore get a new head to be on the safe side??? Answer: Find out exactly what he was on about. There is no need to get a new head if it is just a little crack between valves. |
| ID: 1559 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: heavy steering Question: hi driving the motor this afternoon and noticed that the steering seems to be heavy turning both ways but then goes back to normal!?i've also recently had a new drive shaft (passanger side) can you help?thanks!ken. Answer: Could be down to the driveshaft being incorrect or faulty. Another possability is it needs greasing. |
| ID: 1560 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: squeezing!! Question: Hi wiz just bought another 5, and noticed on this one when you rev the engine the top rad hose goes almost completely flat!! is this a common problem? my other 5 does'nt do it! would it be down to a knackerd hose??? cheers phil p.s not overheating but not really pushed it yet! Answer: Some compression of the hose is normal but a lot leads me to think there may be some blockage in the rad or thermostat. |
| ID: 1561 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: the speedo and oil cooler Question: hi wiz i is back...i've noticed the speedo needle jumping a little and it wouldn't click up any miles,i've fixed the jumping and the speedo reads fine but alas the miles won't click up!do you have any ideas?(Ive just cleaned the grey connecter behind the air box) i've also been reading the haynes manual and from that i believe the gtt has a oil cooler built into the rad,if so can i use these feeds to run to a seperate cooler? The coolers off a mgb gt ad has about 8 rows and is alloy,the fittings are obviously differant but the mg pipes are the same bore( and really long).If i got a local hydrolics firm to join these this to the gtt's pipework it would work or is there a simpler solution? cheer again pete ps i am still waiting for the oil feed return pipe from renault...next day my arse! Answer: The speedo head will be at fault if the miles don't clock up. This was a very common problem about a year or so ago but yours is the first i have heard of this year. The speedo is about £400 from renault so i suggest asking on the boards or the scrappies for a good second hand one with similar mileage. The built in oil cooler can be disconnected and the pipework removed up to the oil filter. Use the MG pipework but i suggest you add a thermostat control unit (about £20) available from good accessory shops or places like Demon Tweeks between the filter and cooler to make sure your oil gets up to temp quicker. This mod will see your water temp drop a little and appear to take longer to warm up sometimes but is generally a good thing to do. |