| ID: 1442 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lack of fuel Question: On monday i used the 5 all day with no problems. Parked the car up that night about 10 still no problems. Got in the car Tuesday morning about 6:30 she fired, run for a minute the stopped. I then tried to start for 5 minutes after but all she did was turn over. I have a spark so im thinking fuel? I will check the fuse this afternoon. If it aint that is it relay? If so where can i find it? How can i check the relay once found? thank you for your time. Gavin. Answer: There is a fuel relay fitted in the bottom of the fuse box that should click when you turn the ignition on. To check to see if you are getting fuel, remove the fuel line to the carb and put it into a bottle. Have you ever changed the fuel filter as this may be blocked. |
| ID: 1443 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Manifold gasket Question: Wiz, I,ve just bought a competition head set off someone local ,would you be able to tell me with the manifold gasket,it has steel sheeting one side and material on the other which way round should it go as it fits both ways,cheers wiz. Answer: The metal side goes to the head as the softer side absorbs any imperfections in the manifold mating surfaces. |
| ID: 1444 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Induction ? Question: Hi God, I am going to replace my air box with an induction kit. Which one do you think is best for around £80.00.. Thanks' Steve Keating Answer: Have you thought about a replacement element (K&N or JR) and an extra cold air feed instead of the hot air feed? It will only cost you about £35 If not then Any cone filter from a decent manufacturer will do. ie K&N, Green,JR,Blitz etc |
| ID: 1445 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cheap power Question: hi wiz im just about to replace the standard turbo on my car as i cant afford a hybrid just yet, so far i have a: 21/4"" exhaust induction kit a strapped intercooler My questions are which pipe do i fit the bleed valve in to, to increase boost, front or rear actuator pipe, do i have to change the carb jets to run about 14-16psi if so what to, and how do i measure boost pressure so i know what its running at i only have the original turbo gauge on the dash. cheers in advance Graham Lusby Answer: Fit the bleed valve in the pipe nearest the front of the car. I would recommend a 130 main and 90 air corrector for anything up to about 20 psi. 14-16psi will be near to the end of the red on the standard gauge. |
| ID: 1446 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure sender unit Question: hi wiz i got another problem, can you help me? im in need of an oil pressure sender unit. will the one of the straight 1400 r5 be the same or do i have to pay renault £47.50 can you put a universal aftermarket sensor on instead cos the OE unit is known for failing. cheers m8 good luck..... Answer: I would go for an after market item and leave it at that. |
| ID: 1447 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: actuator? Question: Hi wiz i have just bought another 5 a nice j plate after having a general look about i noticed the two pipes that go to the actuator one of them has been blanked with a bolt?? any ideas why this has been done? it has been fitted with a in car bleed Valve. Also no heatsheild at all, shall i get stainless or the real thing? cheers phil Answer: As long as it is the rearmost pipe that is blocked then it is ok. He has probably tried to do the cup mod. You can do without a heatshield but are probably better off replacing it. You could have a stainless steel, alloy, kevlar or standard one. |
| ID: 1448 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost gauge Question: hi wiz, just fitted a new boost gauge which i plumbed into the pipe coming of the carb inlet elbow, so that it reads positive pressure for now. my problem i think is that the new gauge seems to read too high 13psi max, and my factory gauge does not go into the red section but the very start of it. the car is standard at the moment. have you any ideas if 13psi sounds right? Answer: The standard gauges are renowned to be inconsistant but it would be just into the red normally for 13psi. 13psi is high for standard but it only takes a couple of turns on the actuator arm to increase the boost to 13psi from 7-9 std. |
| ID: 1449 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: new turbo Question: hi wiz ive just ordered a new turbo ktr 180 i also have a bleed valve. when fitting the turbo would it be advisable to fit the bleed valve and also turn the boost down to bed the unit in. i also have an incar boost kit should i fit this at the same time. could you give me any other info relating to the above(ie intercooler & so on) cheers Answer: I would keep the boost down for a while and turn it up using the in car kit only after a couple of hundred miles. Strapping the standard intercooler is a must and flowing or replacing it with an alloy item is even better. |
| ID: 1450 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cone filters Question: hi wiz i've just been given what i believe is a cone filter,it has a plastic elbow attached to it with a breather pipe on that.The guy told me it goes on around the air filter!...could you tell me where it goes and what it would improve please ta pete..again Answer: I am not really sure what you are on about Pete. Can you put up a picture for me to look at at all? |
| ID: 1451 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure Question: when i brought my 5 about 6 months ago the oil pressure gauge was reading 3 -4. i have recentlydone an oil change using castrol gtx magnetec semi synthetic. since then when the engine is really warmed up the pressure drops to 2 and sometimes below, is this oil not suitable for 5s or do i have another problem. i will be gratefull for any advice you can give me, cheers.. sean. Answer: It sounds like the old oil was thicker but GTX Magnetec is ok for the 5GT. |
| ID: 1452 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: safe Question: hi wiz cheers for helping me out again one more question is it safe to run 14psi on the standard turbo and where on the site are your tips for gaining more power cheers Answer: 14 psi will be safe if your turbo and engineare in good condition. Try searching through the previous questions in the wizard section. |
| ID: 1453 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: max psi Question: hi wiz thanks for answering my previous question. in relation to that question ive heard that the max psi you can safely run is 16psi, would that be measured above the carb which is where iam getting 13psi from, or should i measure 16psi from the vacume pipe below the carb? thanks in advance! Answer: Above the carb to be safe. |
| ID: 1454 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Stuck Question: Ok, i know how to change the discs at the front, and i know how to get the stub axle carrier off to change the bearings. My question to you o great one is how the f*ck do i get the bolts off? I have tried wd40, i've heated them up and i've done 2 rachets and the large metal bar came close to going through my bird's car window. Can you sprinkle some of your magic fairy dust over this way and help me out. Thanks???????? Answer: Which bolts do you mean? Ratchets are not built to withstand the forces involved with using a bar so i would try a knuckle/hinge bar for extra leverage. |
| ID: 1455 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: specific list.. Question: There are so many ways to upgrade a renault 5 gt turbo, what i want to know is ..... i want to start at the weakest link and work my way up from there i.e is the standard head gasket the weakest link ? then the head boltz or perhaps the intercooler etc... is there anyway you could provide a list of upgrades which can be done gradually over time and all of the engine still be able to run on everyday use ? probably a tall order and will take some thinking but gotta ask the question... Answer: I would start with an exhaust and air filter upgrade, followed by strapping and flowing the intercooler or replace it wih an alloy one, upping the boost to 14psi. All this is assuming that your cooling system is up to the job otherwise you are asking for trouble. The standard head gasket is good up to 20+psi if the carb is fuelling correctly. The list goes on so you may be better talking to a tuner when you have the money to buy the next upgrades. |
| ID: 1456 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pressure unit location Question: Hello wizzmyster, Where exactly on the engine is the oil pressure sender unit? as my gauge does not work! and never really has. cheery bye Claaarkio :-) Answer: It is on the bottom of the oil line to the turbo at the front of the block. It is best viewed from underneath as it is hidden by the radiator and its fan. |
| ID: 1457 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Idling Problem Question: Hello Wizard i have a problem, Basically ive just had my engine rebilt, recon gearbox hybrid stage 3 and put a kent cam in it we have got it running and it wont idle it jumps from 900 - 1500 revs and the exhaust is also popping, we have the timing and dizzy timing spot on, we were told with this cam it would run lumpy but it is definatley running too lumpy, we have checked the obvisous things like the carb by swoping it with another and also have double checked the valve clearances as advised by Andy at BB Any other idea's ? Answer: Are you sure the cam timing is correct, the plug leads are on the right way and the dizzy is in the right position as it will go in many ways. If so then i am a little stumped without seeing the car. |
| ID: 1458 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Tuning Question: I am planning on spending quite a bit of money on the engine in my 5(everything possible). The only thing that worries me is the mileage. Its done 90k on a G plate which isnt bad. The engine has FSH, and the first time it was on the rollers it did 136 bhp and 166 ft/lb torque with only a filter, exhaust, re-jetted carb and an in car boost running 13 psi. Ian at Europarts will be doing the work for me, but at the end of the day its still 12 years old, and I dont want to spend so much money on something that could blow up. Assuming new pistons+liners and all lightened and balanced etc, is it wise? Is it possible to buy a brand new engine(not recon)? Answer: You are better off getting the engine you have fully rebuilt with new timing chain, tensioner, oil pump etc as well as the pistons liner etc as it is possible for new engines to be less than perfect. It will also be much cheaper. |
| ID: 1459 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: what size Question: Hi, wiz, just a quickie for you, I work in a place that makes radiators, intercoolers, chargeair coolers. I'm going to make an intercooler for the 5 could you tell me sizes, how big can i go, where can it be put. cheers. Answer: It is down to you to decide where to put it and what size it will be! |
| ID: 1460 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re cone filters Question: wiz where shall i send the pic i can't seem to do it through this page? pete Answer: Get a freebie website from someone like dreamstation.com and upload it to there then post me the address. |
| ID: 1461 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Whirring noise Question: I've got this whirring/droning noise coming from the front of the car somewhere. The noise changes in pitch with the speed of the engine. First I thought it was a wheel bearing going, but I cant distinguish it to one side of the car when I go round right or left hand corners. So I then thought maybe a tyre could be worn/off balance? It does sound like a tyre on road kind of noise but with a droning too. I am also getting excessive vibration when doing about 80mph+ but the noise has got louder and more noticable in the last couple of days. Help! Dan. Answer: Could be a tyre but i would check/change the gearbox oil as well just in case. |
| ID: 1462 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: washer pumps Question: Mr wiz, i've got a problem similar to addy c (18/4/2001) my front washers don't work, this is wat ive tried combo's of :- front wash stalk to front wash pump, nothin, not even the wipers movin front wash stalk to rear wash pump, back spray n front wipers workin rear wash button to rear wash pump , worx fine, rear wiper worx rear wash button to front pump, front sray n rear wiper worx , ( how i passed the mot ) if that's not confusin enuf, i'm gettin a good voltage readin at both connectors when both r disconnected, but only at the rear connector when connected. i was gonna try a different stalk but i'm gettin good readings on the multimeter, i hope this isn't too confusing. also my rear wiper misses out a few inches of the screen around the 65 - 75 degree mark of its 100 degree stroke, but only the top few inches of the blade, again also confusing, please help Answer: Sounds to me like a faulty stalk although i had to read this question about a hundred times!!!!!! As for the wiper blade, is it a clio type? If so then you nedd to trim away some plastic at the joint near the base of the arm to get full wipage. If its standard then maybe the blade is bent?????? |
| ID: 1463 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: both can Question: hi wiz, i'm just a little unsure,firstly i took off my boost pipes the other day for a different reason n noticed that there was oil in the pipes, not just a thin film but enuf to drip a few drops when stood up, then found out there was some 1/3 litre of oil in the intercooler, then to top it of, about 5mm of oil in the bottom of the standard air filter box. i only got the turbo re-conned less than 3k ago by marine turbo's in birkenhead, which was done when i had ma engine rebuild. the turbo was runnin at 15 ish psi but turned down to standard when re-conned. it still seems to boost ok tho but i'm concerned about the oil, so i was goin to try another turbo, which leads me onto turbo no. 2, which is off ma donor car. The turbo spindle appears to be able to move around, i don't mean rotating, but i can wiggle it slightly away from the centre, is this normal or is this one buggered aswell, thanx again Answer: I would get them to inspect the turbo as it seems like the seals are leaking quite badly to get that much oil in the system. Make sure they will look at it for free as a lot of companies charge you if you don't ask first. As for turbo 2, a slight movement from centre is ok but in and out movement will mean the thrust bearing is worn. |
| ID: 1464 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: TO HOT TO HANDLE Question: HI I BLOWN A WATER PIPE OF THE WATER PUMP ALL THE WATER WENT EVERYWHERE. I FOUND OUT A DAY LATER THAT THE RADIATOR HAD BLOWN AS WELL I CHANGED THE RADIATOR THE NEXT DAY FIXED THE PIPE, BLEED THE SYSTEM THEN WENT FOR TEST RUN. THE TEMP WENT RIGHT UP TO THE DASHES. THE WATER PIPE FROM WATER PUMP TO RADIATOR THE ONE WITH THE BLEED VALVE ON IT WAS ROCK HARD DUE TO PRESSURE, COULD YOU PUT MY HEAD AT EASE AND LEAD ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION OF WHAT IT WRONG I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT WHEN THE PIPE BLOW IT BLOW THE HEAD GASKET Answer: Sounds very much like a blown head gasket to me. Try getting a compression test done to be sure. |
| ID: 1465 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wired pipes! Question: Hi Wizz a quick few questions for ya, i removed my turbo the other day and there is a banana shaped pipe (about 1"" diamaiter) just under the turbo that is not connected to anything, is it part of the original air filter, and is it doing owt? also what is the 8mm pipe into the back of the turbo exhaust elbow for, as none of these are in the bible (haynes manual!) also you have suggested flushing the engine out with cheap oil to get rid of any nastyness, do i change the oil filter before flushing, after flushing or both. cheers Answer: That ""banana"" pipe is the old hot air feed to the standard airbox and can be removed. The small pipe on the turbo elbow is part of the boost compensation circuit and can be removed and blocked off (part of Cup mod) if you have a free flowing performance exhaust. Change the oil filter after you have flushed the oil and before you refill with the good stuff. |
| ID: 1466 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electrical Gremlins. Question: Hello! I have a problem with my Temp gauge reading too high. Before I had my engine re-built it always ran up to the 3 qtrs mark (Just over in the summer) before the rad fan came in. I had the engine rebuilt and had all the cooling done, i,e, new water pump, rad, hoses, low temp rad fan switch, etc, etc. The temp gauge sometimes reads just below the 3 qtrs mark or just over half way (depending on it's mood). When I turn my lights on, the temp gauge goes up slightly. Obviously all the cooling is sorted, but could it be the dash gauge itself that is faulty or sender? What do you suggest I try to retify this? As I understand the fan should kick in when the gauge reads half way (or just over) with the low temp switch? Oh and what can be used on a perc fan (quite new) to help prolong it's life, as it's started to squeal slightly and also almost stop then start again. Is WD40 safe? :-) Many thanks! Answer: The fan should cut in between the 1/2 and 3/4 marks and a bad earth or dodgy joint will effect the resistance seen by the gauge and therefore effect the reading. Try cleaning the connector block and see if that cures the problem. |
| ID: 1467 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Still a whiring noise. Question: Hi wiz, I mailed u about my whirring noise that gets louder as u increase speed, but stops when u go around a left turn!!! I have checked my wheel bearings and it isnt them...am i correct in thinking that u can wobble the wheel from holding them top and bottom when the bearing has gone? there is no movement in my wheels? I felt the passenger side drive shaft and there is a couple of mm's of movement-is this ok? If so what else could this noise be because it is driving me dippy? thanks. Answer: It could well be the drive shaft then as a new one will have little if any movement and an old or knackered one can have quite a few mm of play. |
| ID: 1468 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: breather Question: wiz where do you fit one of those oil breathers is it in the end of the pipe that goes in to the telephone hose. if so do i just plug it in and block the hole in the telephone hose. cheers Answer: You can do it like that, or you can bin the whole breather system and just use one on the rocker cover and one on the sump return. |
| ID: 1469 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: just a quick one... Question: Now I don't want to cause ny problems, but it seems to me that the featured cars section of the website is getting a bit old... About 1 year old to be precise! Is this due to people not submitting their cars or is there a problem somewhere? Cheers for all the top advice, and lets hope you can answer this one! Answer: It is due to the massive workload involved in the new version of the site due online soon. You will then be able to upload your own pictures and write up directly to the site rather than relying on the overworked website editors to do it for you. |
| ID: 1470 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: DIZZY DRIVE Question: when fittng the dizzy drive to the cam should the slot be just before 90 or just after 90 degres from the head at TDC. Answer: It should be square on 90 degrees. Try resetting the marks and refitting the drive. |
| ID: 1471 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Moments of greyish smoke Question: Hi wiz I gotta prob and I hopes you can help. I was sitting in traffic today and was at stand still for about 4 -5 mins. I saw grey puffs of smoke coming out of my exhaust, I revved the car a little and the smoke disappeared , and didnt reappear for the rest of the journey ( 3 miles or so), My car has just been serviced and tuned (CO and Idle). The car doesnt stutter or jerk, it drives fine, it just puffs this light greyish smoke some times - Any Ideas?? Thanks Munish Answer: It may just be a bit of carbon being burnt off or a little extra fuel. As long as it doesn't get worse then i wouldn't worry. |