| ID: 1472 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Anti-perc fan questions Question: Wiz, I've got a couple of questions regarding the anti-perc system: - 1. On the back of the main boost hose (intercooler to carb) there in a tube that connects to a component located on the bulk-head, what is it? and what does it do?. I thing it is some kind of valve, how should it behave? 2. I know the perc fan can be activated by one of 2 sensors. The sensor located in the heat shield works as when I join the wire together the fan starts, but when I join the two wires together that go to the sensor at the base of the carb the fan does go! all I hear is the ignition coil make a strange noise..................any ideas? Chris Roberts Answer: 1) The valve on the bulkhead allows cold air from the perc fan to be blown into the top hose and it should only be open when the fan is running. If it leaks then you will loose boost back through the perc fan and it will make a weird whistling noise. 2) The wires to the heatshield sensor should be paralleled from the carb base so it shouldn't do anything weird if the heatshield one works ok. Try following the wires and look for damage. |
| ID: 1473 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoke on stand Still Question: Hi Wiz, I have a 5 turbo, It has been sitting in the garage for about 3 years. It used to get started regulary. I have taken it out a few times to make sure it is still going. I have noticed when Idling there seems to be smoke coming out of the exhaust. Its not the turbo cos that is brand new. Its a standard 5 turbo. Also there is some rust on the bodywork would it be best to just get the car resprayed? Cheers Your da Man! Answer: It is probably the valve stem oil seals perished due to lack of oil flow around them. It is possible to do them with the head on the car but a lot easier to do with it off. I would get all the rust shot blasted off or replace the panels before respray or it will just come through again in a few months. |
| ID: 1474 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: help Question: About the breathers do you mean rip all the breather pipes off completly and plug it straight in to the rocker cover, and is the sump return the one next to the water pump that the black canister thing sits on please help because if this is right i can get rid of the big mess of hoses that run everywhere around the carb. cheers Answer: Yes you can rip it all out! Don't forget to remove the one way valve in the manifold and block that hole with a suitable bolt and the copper washer from the valve. Again using a suitable bolt or plug, block the hole in the ""U"" shaped hose going to the turbo. Due to oil mist etc the filters you fit to the rocker cover and sump return (yes its next to the water pump) will need cleaning every know and then. |
| ID: 1475 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: anti perc fan Question: how can i test my anti perc fan to make sure its workin? thanks tim Answer: short the wires together that go to the sensor on the carb or heatshield. |
| ID: 1476 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cone filter Question: hi wiz the filter is on www.webofsin.com/cone.jpg i hope this helps pete Answer: Right now i see what you mean. Remove the standard air filter box and pipes. Then the elbow bolts onto the turbo inlet and the smaller pipe is part of the breather system pipework. It can be removed and your own pipe from the breather to the turbo ""U"" bend fitted instead. Does that make sense to you? |
| ID: 1477 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil problems.... Question: Hi there, I've got two concerns with the car at the mo- they may or may not be related.... The oil pressure gauge reads about 1.5(bar?) at idle, but when the engine is hot it can drop to 1. Sometimes when I park the car on my drive after a thrash it drops to almost 0. Firstly how worried should I be about the oil pressure dropping as low as 1? Secondly can the fact that the car is on an uphill slope (on my drive) affect the reading (bacause of some lame renault engineering)? Secondly the car drops about three drips of oil when I stop after a hard run. Apart from the trouble this gets me in with my Mum when its on their drive how worried should I be about that? Is this dripping related to the low oil pressure? Rather a lot of questions... my apologies! Cheers for any help. Tom K Answer: The low oil pressure could be slightly effected by a low oil level caused by the leak that you have. It is more than likely old oil going thin, new oil that is too thin or a faulty reading which is quite likely with Renault electrics. |
| ID: 1478 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Breathing Question: Wizzy wiz I have a question for you if you dont mind. Thanx, thought it'd b OK. As per Busby's question about taking the breather pipes off and blocking holes etc...that aint a problem, what I'd like to know is if I put a Breather filter on the rocker cover can I leave a filter off the pipe up near the water pump and just block it with a bolt or something as I dont want a filter round there. Cheers Old fella. Dave Answer: If you block that pipe you will get a build up of pressure in the crankcase that willl undoubtably cause leaks somewhere. You could leave it open but you are asking for dirt or water to get in there. |
| ID: 1479 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ok....oil pressure gauge then Question: Hello, me again... Ok, so I'm deeply suspicious of the car's electrics anyway... I think there might well be a problem with the gauge... today it was going mental as I drove, the needle was all over the shop! What's the most likely cause of problems with the gauge, and how can I start solving the problems? I am a sponge to the font of your knowledge. Cheers, TomK Answer: The majority of problems are down to poor connections on the sender (found on the bottom of the turbo oil feed pipe) or with the engine main connector block being corroded. (it is found near the passenger headlight under the header tank) |
| ID: 1480 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: single port with incar boost Question: ive just got a stage 2 turbo from turbo technics and it has a single port actuator, could you give me a dummys guide to fitting it with a in car boost valve as my old turbo was a two port actuator, and tt told me to go to rolling road to get it sorted, this isnt a option cos i am skint now!! thanks for all your help Answer: The in car valve fitment is the same as before but the metal pipe at the rear of the turbo elbow needs to be removed and blocked with a bolt. (M10 i think) The rearmost actuator pipe and the attached pipework near the carb need to be removed and the extra port in the carb top also needs to be blocked. This is what is called the cup modification. |
| ID: 1481 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Door Pins Question: I was wondering where i could buy some 8mm door pins as i am not sure where to buy some from. I hope you can help as this problem is begining to piss me off! Answer: Go to any good accessory store or motor factors and ask for 8mm diameter roll pins, can't remember the length but just measure them. |
| ID: 1482 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clutch? cable? Question: after about 20-30 minutes of driving fine i suddenly cannot get into any gear. if i do crunch it into gear the car creeps forward even though i have the clutch pedal firmly buried in the carpet. would this be the clutch itself or the cable etc. could low gearbox oil do this also. many thanks for any light you can shed on this for me Answer: I expect that you either have a cheap pattern cable fitted or that the one you have has stretched. Get a new genuine cable from Renault and try that. |
| ID: 1483 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re re cone fliter Question: yep perfect sense...all fitted and looking alot more spacious,should i leave the cold air pipe so it blows air at the filter? cheers pete Answer: Deffinately! |
| ID: 1484 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: timing sensor Question: how you doing wizz, i want to buy an adjustable timing sensor but is there a difference between phase 1 and phase 2 sensors and fly wheels etc thanks for your advice Answer: The phase one has a shorter cable as it only has to go to the engine bay mounted ignition module whereas the phase two has to go to the bulkhead. Flywheels the same. |
| ID: 1485 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: breather system Question: mate the breather from the back of the manifold is sucking like a pro at idle. i know its supposed to a bit, but you can hear it through the air filter. whats up and how do i fix it? cheers mate. Dan Answer: You could either renew the one way valve or remove it and block the hole! |
| ID: 1486 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pressure! Question: Wiz, I noticed today that my oil pressure is hovering between 0 - 2, the gauge has always been a bit funny but never has the pressure been this low. Could the gauge be faulty or is the pressure really 0 - 2? and if so why/how would the pressure drop this low and what is the solution to fix it? Many thanks for previous answers, Chris Roberts Answer: As long as the oil pressure warning light doesn't come on then it is just a dodgy sensor, gauge or wire. The sensors are allways going wrong but GSF do them for a few quid. |
| ID: 1487 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ""Oil feed pipes??"" Question: Hey up wiz, hope you could help me out with a question i have for you. I am upgrading to a lovely new copper cored rad in the next couple of weeks, along with some new samco coolant hoses to replace them split ones!! But then i thought to myself, what about all of them oil feed pipes that will be gunged up, i have seen the replacement oil feed into the turbo from bb tuning but there are many others, due you know of anyone that supplies replacements or is it going to be a trip down to the renault garage? cheers dan Answer: I take it you mean replacement pipes to the oil cooler in the radiator. If so then you will only find them at renault and they are not cheap. (Suprise, suprise) You could get a company to make you up some braided stainless steel hoses. My recommendation here would be to buy a seperate, thermostatically controlled oil cooler kit with nice braided stainless steel pipes which will only be slightly more expensive than the standard pipes. This set up will also allow your water temperature to run lower as the oil will not be heating it up and the oil temp is better controlled by the thermostat for the cooler. |
| ID: 1488 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pipes Question: Can i cut out the water pipes to and from the heater matrix as i dont use the heater? Thanks for your help, again. Answer: You could do! Do you never use it to clear a misted windscreen or anything??????? Just make sure you still have a circuit for the water to flow around. |
| ID: 1489 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oh fudge... its all gone horribly wrong! Question: My string of bad luck continues! 2 questions.... 1) As regards the engine oil pressure... I took the sender (?) out and gave its terminals a good clean...the situation seems to be much improved! Nonetheless I think its best that I replace the part (as long as its not too expensive!) Where might I be able to get one? 2) More pressingly.... I was out driving tonight and the car suddenly started to have some trouble getting into fourth.... it would 'catch' and make a horrible noise, but after a few attempts would find the gear. I then parked up for 2 hours odd (watched Ali G- fine GTT presence...aii!) then on the way home the problem got progressively more troblesome. By the time I had driven three miles 2 and 4th were seemingly missing as my box began to feel like I was stirring treacle..... when I pulled into my drive the whole box was feeling extremely poorly. The clutch still seems to disengage drive (and though its nearing the top of its travel does not slip at 20 psi odd), and the when I do find a gear it seems to go ok, its just the buggers are being extremely elusive!!! I am a charitable cause to your vast fortune of GT Turbo knowledge. Selecta! TomK Answer: 1) Easy GSF do them for a few quid (0118 9513 513) 2) I would check the linkage hasn't come loose or even the plastic joint near the base of the gearbox may have disintergrated which will create lots of movement and play in the selecta! |
| ID: 1490 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: sooty & sweep! Question: hi there,ive noticed that every time i clean the s/s exhaust tail pipe and go for a spin in it when i get back after a decent drive its dirty again (sooty) on the outer lip!now is it cause im running larger jets on about 12 psi?would it be better for me to run on a higher boost (ive only got a straped & flowed inter)!?if so what boost should i run?(stg 1 hybrid) cheers for the advice!!!ken. Answer: I would wind it up to between 14-18psi and get a better intercooler. |
| ID: 1491 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 4 point harnesses Question: is it possible to fit the front seats with 4 point harnesses and still keep the back seats for people to sit in??? cheers wiz Answer: You could get one person in the middle between the harnesses but it won't be easy to get in and out. |
| ID: 1492 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Perc fan Question: Wiz, My perc fan is not working and never has worked.The actuall fan it self is fine[plugged direct to battery]but i have got no wires running to sensors,absolutly nothing,I have got a relay and fuse hanging from the fan's arse they disapper under the headlight.Any ideas you can give me about wireing the sensor wires in or do i have to buy new perc wires,if so,from were ,Cheers wiz Answer: The wiring comes from the front of the engine near the alternator and on to the carb before going to the heatshield sensor. If it has been cut then you have a problem but if it has just been tucked away you will be ok. You could allways fit an override switch to the dash but if you forget to switch it off then you will have battery problems. |
| ID: 1493 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: smokin!! Question: hi wiz i'm back with more smokey dilemas...the valve stems are fitted and theres no oil in the coke can, re-test you advised me on. But still she smokes,it happens mainly when it's been sitting for a few hours and it seems to be a mixture of oily smoke and steam!.I've only started to use it full time in the last few days and i have noticed it takes about 3osecs before the smoke appears after it's started and thats without reving the engine. when it's cleared the smoke(after about 5mins of driving) there is no smoke when it's ticking over or when it's on a run.(but it does very occassionally chuck out a bit if you give some) I have a lot of exprience with normally asperated engines and this leads me to believe it's a turbo seal and not piston rings...i know only a little bit about turbos though i'm learning fast! what do you think wiz could it be the seals or is it a toss up between both? I's stressed now pete Answer: A compression test will tell you if the rings are sealing properly. |
| ID: 1494 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lowering Question: what would be the most i could lower my car with 15s fitted and the arches rolled, without any rubbing on full lock or with one passenger in the back. cheers Answer: Without rubbing on full lock is a hard one to judge but using 45 profile tyres i have seen drops of 75mm or 3 inches with only a little rubbing. A little less on the rear 60-70mm and you will need minor mods to the bumper mount and arches/bumper. |
| ID: 1495 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: intercooler Question: i wanna make my 5 different to most in as many ways as i can, ive been thinking about getting the intercooler mounted down behind the front bumper behind mesh so it is seen and i would assume it benefits from the cold air, how easy would this be to do, also i read a previous question and a charge cooler was mentioned, would you be able to briefly explain what this is and does, cheers once again wizard Answer: A front mounted intercooler is a cost effective way to more power/boost before pinking but pipe runs can be a pain to sort out. Forge motorsport will shortly be producing a kit with intercooler and pipework to fit in a standard bumper. Call them for more details and don't forget to ask for club discount. A charge cooler is like an intercooler with a water jacket around it. The water takes away the heat rather than the airflow over a normal intercooler. |
| ID: 1496 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lorry intercoolers Question: Hallo there knower of all, i hope this is easier to answer than my last question.While chattin with ma mate he mentioned that the intercooler off a lorry would work, if ya could get it to fit, possibly the same way as a charge cooler but if not it would give better cooling anyway. i thought this wouldn't work cos it would create lag, is he pullin ma exhaust or is this a cheap scrapyard mod? thanx as always Answer: As long as it isn't morer than about 2-3 times the size of the standard intercooler it should be ok. A massive intercooler will work better but is more likely to cause lag due to the larger volume of air needed to fill it before reaching the engine. |
| ID: 1497 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: is it needed????????? Question: your wizardry is needed again, i've found a company which produces polished stainless steel tubes of different sizes etc, so i have 2 questions. 1st, is that i was thinkin of usin these pipes around the engine bay, water n air, ie cuttin up n usin the std elbows but runnin straight peices in stainless, or they would probably be able 2 make copy pipes so i'll just use the end inch or so of the originals, anyway, it'll be cheaper than samco type hoses n be shiny but is it worth doin? 2nd, is that i've been thinkin that if i use the stainless pipe, i would like a full straight thru piece 4 the main intercooler to carb boost hose n so i was lookin in the manual to find out about the extra pipes that connect 2 this 1. the first one being the boost override, now i've unplugged this b4 n had no probs, i'm only runnin std boost so i thought i could do away with this 1, but i'm unsure about the valve 4 the perc fan. can i get rid of this 1 aswell cos from what i can figure out is that the earlier gtt's didn't have 1(section 3.17 in manual, fig 3.29), so can i put it on some kind of switch instead, thanx again. Answer: This idea would look really trick but would look better with the end pieces being samco. You may be able to get off cuts for a few pounds to use as connectors and bend the pipework for corners. (You can hire pipe benders from local hire stores for a few quid) As for the main boost hose, the perc fan connection can be binned and if you just block the take off at the perc fan itself you can bin the extra pipework and it will still blow air onto the carb and fuel line. The overboost switch could be fitted to stainless pipe by getting the correct size nut welded to the pipe. It will only cost a couple of pounds and will keep your motor safe. |
| ID: 1498 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb Jets...... Question: Hi Again Wiz, This is becoming all too frequent but here we go again....................................... I removed my carb and stripped it down, replaced the main jet with a 135 and everything was fine. I then went to remove the air compensating jet in the venturi but the little notches that you put the screwdriver in have sheared. How else can i get the thing out? Would it be ok to have a go at drilling it out very delicately??? Thanx Wiz-ur help is appreciated. Answer: You could try a small easy out but i expect you will have to drill it in the end. |
| ID: 1499 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: popping from deceleration Question: Hi Wiz, Could you please tell me what would cause my car to make a popping and sometimes really cracking noise from what I think is the exhaust. Could it be overfueling. The guy who had the car before me didn't look after it and I have a bit of work to do to get it back to it's former glory. Thanks for any advice you can give me. OH and also how much travel should be in the shaft in the turbo as mine can move from side to side ( not from centre ) about 2-3mm. Is it knackered as I'm buynig a good second hand one and want to know if it is going to be ok when I get it. Answer: The popping back is most likely to be from a leak in the manifold or exhaust allowing air into mix with the unburnt fuel and the heat of the exhaust igniting it. Try holding a rag over the tailpipe to block it and see if you can spot the leak. As for the turbo, minimal movement left to right is normal but 2-3mm is excessive and it probably won't last long. You could get your own turbo reconned for about £150ish so bear that in mind when you buy a new one. |
| ID: 1500 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: brain Question: where is the brain to be found on the gtt. thanks Answer: There isn't a brain as such. The ignition module is located on the bulkhead near the turbo on a phase one car and by the battery on a phase two car. |
| ID: 1501 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: re-starting when warm Question: when i start my r5 first thing in the morning she starts no probs... with no choke. but if i try to start her when she's still warm it just turns over and over not fireing,then i leave it for 5 mins and it starts after alot of turning over.... is she knackerd??? :o( Answer: It could be heat soak evapourating the fuel. Is your anti perc fan working? |