| ID: 1292 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: noise on new turbo Question: just had md 14 fitted when i start car up the turbo makes a hard to describe noise its like a squeeking noise.when you drive the car its alright when accelorating but when you take foot of the noise starts again.ive got green indution kit,bigger carb jets,adj boost but only on low at moment,dont want to damage turbo if the noise is something to do with turbo or actuator.also could you please tell me what 1 bar is in psi. thanks pete Answer: 1 bar is 14.7psi I would say get the filter pipe off, grab the compressor wheel and check for play. It could be that you have had one that hasn't been built correctly. Why did you get a new turbo? Was it down to the old one breaking or did you just want more boost? It could be oil starvation. |
| ID: 1293 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: white smoke Question: i have white smoke coming out of the exhaust from cold,until you drive it a couple of miles. not losing any coolant,oil,brake fluid at all.always happens after vehicle been stood for a period of time long/short. more noticeable really cold days. Answer: Sounds to me like condensation in the engine/exhaust burning off. Should be fine if you are not loosing coolant etc. |
| ID: 1294 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: twin headlamps Question: wiz is there any chance u cud quickly tell me how to wire up twin headlamps?? obviously the earth ring connectors go to earth but where do the live male terminals go on to?? help !!! Answer: You need to add a relay into the system for the spotlight side of things and the outer headlights just plug in as normal. Take the relay switch wire from the main beam wire at the headlight and then feed there power from the battery through the relay. Does that make sense to you? |
| ID: 1295 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Distorting Noise at high revs!! Question: Hi Wizz, Back for more first class info. I have just had a BB Tuining 2 1/4 SS System fitted to my 5. I have replaced the air filter with a replacement Pipercross element. I have noticed that when the car goes higher into the rev range the turbo whistle starts to distort but the power does not seem to be affected. The car is going in for a monster service in a few weeks. Could it be the settings which need to be adjusted now the exhaust is different. The boost on the car was slightly turned down when the car was first registered. Could it be that it is reaching the boost limit. And finally. My clutch pedal seems to have a mind of its own. Most of the time it is ok but tends to go softer when driving in traffic and the bitting point moves closer to the floor. I had to replace the self tightening mechanism on my clio because it was giving me this problem. Do they use the same systems?? PS( car has done 57000 on original turbo) Sorry about the size of the questions but who else can we turn to!!!!! Thanks Answer: If you are on low boost the turbo will be working well within limits especially if it has only done 57k The noise may be down to the filter or lack of back pressure in the exhaust creating more flow. Try refitting the standard filter to see if the noise goes back to normal. The clutch pedal is on a self adjuster and Renault have brought out a modified one that doesn't eat cables as often. It may be yours is close to going. |
| ID: 1296 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Skimming Disks Question: Hey Wiz, I need to get my rear disks skimmed as they are now ""belling"" - the car stood for a while. 1st how much should I be looking to pay for this. 2nd will they need to replace the bearings to do this. 3rd should I just buy some new disks? Ta much. Timbo. Answer: Skimming discs is not worth the effort and money as rears are not expensive although it is necessary to renew the rear wheel bearings at the same time. If you can't afford this then just spin the wheel whilst rubbing it down with fine emery cloth to remove the rust. |
| ID: 1297 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine swap Question: Wiz, Would it be possible to fit an impreza turbo engine into a GT Turbo? I think someone once got a cossie engine in there, and also I've heared of a 21 engine going in, do I have any chance? Cheers. Answer: I expect it is possible but you will have to fabricate everything in the engine bay and floorpan area. The Cossie lump was fitted on a shortened and narrowed Cossie floor pan which was welded to the 5's shell. This is a monster job but i would love to see you do it! |
| ID: 1298 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: twin headlamps Question: yeah it makes sence a bit and its already got a realy screwed on the back of 1 of the headlamps but not the other so do i need another relay for the other 1?? do u know wot morette's web site page so i can ask them to mail me the diagrams?? Answer: The lights both run off of the same relay, you just need to run a wire to the other side of the car for the spotlight. Goto www.morette.com and click on the technical support link. |
| ID: 1299 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pump UNCOVERED II Question: Oh Wise one!! This car was probably the worst i have seen to date! SHOW CAR my arse! after travelling to the back end of beyond (Kings Lynn) i found a phase one R5 GTT with very good and extremely tidy bodywork! However. The car ran like a sack of cat sh1t!! (apparently rebuilt) And you could have kept goldfish on the inside! It was wetter than a school girls knickers when Westlife are in town!!!!!!!!! The Porsche leather interior turn out to be cloth Renault 11 seats! (Whata mistaka to maka!!) Quite frankly the guy needed a smack in the chops for lying through his back teeth. At this point i highlighted the fact that i'd rather suck sh1t out of a dead kitten, gave him the finger! And sped off vowing never to return to the home of these inbreds (KINGS LYNN) Please can you wave your magic wand and find me a decent R5 GTT, Fairly standard good condition, for about a grand???? (This was the 15th i've looked at) Thanx Answer: A 5GT in fairly standard, decent condition is a rare beast indeed! I recommend either getting a dog for a couple of hundred and sorting it or drop the fairly standard thing and just find one in good nick be it modded or not. If you find one with raised boost and you don't want it like that then just lower the boost again! Same with bigger wheels etc. |
| ID: 1300 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Overboosting Question: Hi Wizard,Seeking a little help and advice if I may.I have recently fitted a home made stainless carb top,prior to fitting this the car was set to run at 1 bar maximum,using an under-bonnet bleed valve,and no boost-limiting switch.Now the new carb-top is in place I'm getting stupid amounts of boost,even with the bleed valve wound right in.I'm not really sure what's causing this.The only thing which comes to mind is the bore size,of the port which connects to the actuator,which despite not being an exact match to the original,is damn close,not enough to cause over-boosting to this degree(probably double it's previous amount,but I backed off to save the turbo).Any thoughts as to the cause of this?.It has occured to me that it could be a leak,acting as a bleed-valve.Would this be a more likely cause?,and would the leak have to be in the actuator feed,or could it be in the joint with the carb top?.If this problem is something that can only be contained,eg.limiting the boost,I thought I might try swapping to the ""cup-circuit mod""(I think that's correct),as I think this limits boost,and you have to adjust the actuator,or bleed more off,to re-gain your original level.Is this correct?,And if so,do I leave the second actuator port open,or is it sealed.Is it a good idea,and does any of this make sense to you?.Help me out wiz,i'm stuck.Thanks in advance,and apologies for the length of this question. Answer: A few people have had unexplained boost rises even with tuners carb tops. I believe that even a small difference in the bore size will effect the boost. Run the cup mod if you like as it means a tidier engine bay and less pipework to go wrong! Don't forget to block the (M12?) hole in the turbo elbow if you do remove the circuit. The second port can just stay open as it will have no effect. Use the actuator arm to set your minimum boost and then bleed off to the max level you want. If you can, refit the overboost switch and set it to just above the max you want as a safety precaution. |
| ID: 1301 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hesitation Question: My 5 has had a problem for months now, when accelerating it pulls ok for between 5 and 10 seconds then starts spluttering, it loses all power, boost starts dropping off, exhaust makes a popping noise. It dosen't matter whether i'm running 5 or 15 psi or full or partial throttle it still does exactly the same thing. It feels like theres no fuel there to burn or the spark disappears altogether. The only things i've found which makes any difference are pulling the choke right out just as it starts hesitating delays the problem for a few seconds, as does disconnecting and blocking off the pipe to the vac advance unit Answer: I would say that you have a problem with your fuel system. It sounds like the problem starts as the float chamber in the carb empties. Firstly i would change the fuel filter, then i would suspect the fuel pump may be faulty or the fuel pressure regulator has had it. |
| ID: 1302 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: drivers door Question: Hi wiz, I have this problem with my door, everytime i reach about 65mph and above you can see daylight through the top seal and you can hear the road noise really loud. As the wind is moving the top of the door the wing mirror also vibrates a lot. I have put new role pins in the door as i thought one may have broken but still no joy. Someone told me to take the door off and drill the holes again as well as the hinge on the car to make them all the same size. Then put a nut and bolt on them. This seems a common problem do you know the best way to overcome it. What about a new hinge kit. How difficult would it be to put on or who would do it for me! Please help it is really annoying. Stuart Answer: Are you sure that the door top hasn't broken away from the main part of the door? A crack could be almost invisable until the wind gets in there. You could drill the door and hinges to 8mm and get an 8mm roll pin to fit it instead of a bolt and nut. |
| ID: 1303 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Illumination Question: Hi wiz The Illumination on my dash where the heater controls are don't light up neither does my clock work. Everything else lights up, it didn’t really bother me but I’ve just put a boost gauge in were my clock was therefore the gauge can't light up. Is there a fuse for that part of the dash or have the light bulb just gone? Sorry for the crap question. Any ides Cheers add. Answer: I expect the feed wire to that part of the dash has broken as i do not think there is a seperate fuse. If you can't find the break, run a wire from a light switch fed positive to the gauge. |
| ID: 1304 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: door again Question: Hi thanks for the advice about my door. I have had another look at it and the fact that it has dropped doesn't make any difference to the way it hangs, if you know what i mean. The hinge lines it up when it is shut. I think that someone has tried to force the door open from the top at some point and bent the top out a bit. This causes it not to push against the seal as hard as it should. when the wind gets in there it just bends the door a bit. I am not sure. do you think the top of the door could be bent back or do you think a new/second hand door would be better. thanks stuart Answer: I expect you could bend the door back in but it will only weaken it. Try it at your own risk as a new door would obviously be best but most expensive. |
| ID: 1305 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Just lost my head! Question: Dear Wizard, The top of my intercooler has just parted company with the rest of it ! Is this usual? Iwasn't pushing it ..honest! Prior to it's demise there was a hot oil smell and the dump valve seemed louder than usual. The cars been in this state of tune for years with no problems... any ideas why this should suddenly occur? Can I rebuild the cooler or should I sling it and get another? Cheers Steve Sheldon Answer: Sling it and get an alloy one as you obviously run more than standard boost and this would benifit you. |
| ID: 1306 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: more than this? Question: should my mate (fellow owner) be getting more bhp for the mods he has done to his car. The tight git cant afford a PC because he done all this to what was a scrapper. A rough answer to wether this figure is about right would be greatly accepted. Engine Lightened Balance Crank, Lightened Balance Con-rods, Lightened Balance Fly Wheel Uprated Oil Pump, Low Compression Pistons and Liners, Standard Turbo Charger, Solid Billet Group A Cam, Group A Valve Springs, Vernier Cam Sprocket, Uprated Bearing Shells, Group A Carb, Alloy Intercooler , GTT Adjustable Timing Sensor, GTT Spider Valve, Water Injection, ACT Progressive Controller, Intercooler Spray, Intercooler Fan, 13 Row Oil Cooler, Oil Sandwich Plate with 83 deg Thermostat, In Car Adjustable Boost , Alloy Heat Shield, Group A Dump Valve, BBT Polished Alloy Carb Plenum, 5 Bar Fuel Pump, BBT Uprated Fuel Filter, BBT/Green Breather Filter, K&N Telephone Hose Filter, Cosworth Pipercross Filter, Silicone 8mm Competition Lead Set, NGK Red Box Racing Plugs, GTT Thermostat, GTT Low Temp Fan Switch, GTT 2.5"" Bore Cross Over Pipe, Prima Racing Pro 2.5"" Bore 4"" Tail Pipe, Group N Head Gasket, Group A Head Bolts, Group 'N' 3 Piece Clutch, GTT Hi-Flow Turbo Outlet Elbow, GTT Ninja Throwing Star Oil Cap, Alloy Scuttle Covers, Samco Blue Silicone Boost Hose Set, Samco Blue Ancillaries, Stainless Steel Over-braid . 153 BHP @ 13 psi Answer: Most of the mods you have mentioned are not for power so the figure is pretty good. Most of the mods will not restrict the car if and when he decides to run more boost so his power gains will be massive compared to just banging more boost into a standard car. I would suggest he ups the boost to 16-18psi or gets a hybrid so he can run 20+ psi no problem! |
| ID: 1307 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oily smoke Question: WHEN START UP FROM COLD I -GET A LOT OF OILY SMELLING SMOKE FROM THE EXHAUST TILL ITS WARM THEN ITS OK NOT LOSING ANY OIL PLUS WHEN I PUSH THE CAR A BIT HARDER AND LET OFF I GET A CHUFF OF SMOKE, IF ITS THE TURBO WILL IT KNACKER THE CAR Answer: It sounds like turbo seals or more likely valve stem oil seals. Renewal is possible without head removal but is not for the amature mechanic. (I am not saying you are an amature by the way!) It shouldn't knacker the car but it may bung up the breather system and intercooler etc |
| ID: 1308 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 2 much fuel? Question: I'm thinking my little black baby is using too much fuel! The carb was rebuilt about a year and a half ago by GDI with I believe 135 jet put in. For some reason all I have to do is a five mini drive and my nice and shiny exhaust is black again! Also since I've been going to a few more rallies this year I have found the need for flames out of my exhaust! But I can do this at 2 grand by cutting the ignition is that a bit low! Can I sort this my self or do you think my little black baby needs to visit a rolling road to get the fuelling right! Many thanx andy! Answer: I would say that you are either over fuelling or are not doing enough miles to burn off the carbon from initial warm up. Are you running max boost on these little runs? If m=not then you WILL be overfuelling as the car has to be set for max boost. (Main reason for efi!) |
| ID: 1309 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bodyworkremoval Question: dear wiz how do the back wheelarch covers come off i want more room to lower the torsion bars cheers mate Answer: You need to remove the nuts from inside the arch, the rear light cluster to gain access to the rivet on the end of the arch and also there is a rivet under the front of the arch. |
| ID: 1310 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: actuator set up Question: how would i set up the actuator please? Answer: remove the circlip from the wastegate lever/actuator arm and remove the arm from the lever. Loosen the lock nut on the arm and shorten to increase boost or lengthen to reduce boost. Secure lock nut, refit arm and test. Once the desired boost has been set then refit the circlip. |
| ID: 1311 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: FUNNY SMELL!! Question: Hi,ive got a in-car boost and when i crank up the boost eg;15-20 psi i get a stong smell of petrol in the car!now when i run the usall at 10-14psi i dont get any smell? Answer: Is your in car boost valve exhausting the fumes into the car instead of in the engine bay? You should have a return pipe going through the bulkhead for just this reason. |
| ID: 1312 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dump valve killing the turbo Question: Hi wizz whilst chatting on yhe boards section of the club a member said that the dump valve killed his turbo due to the turbine spinning at high revs whilst the engine is running at low revs whilst ""dumping"" this in turn gives the turbo less oil feed/pressure than it needs. Does this seem right to you I`ve never heard anything like this before but I can understand where he is coming from, if the turbo is still spinning and the engine revs drop or is the action of all this happening so fast it doesn`t matter. cheers wizz Answer: There should be enough oil pressure even at idle to supply the turbo. If there isn't then i would suspect the filter or pump rather than the dump valve! |
| ID: 1313 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lost my head Pt 11! Question: Dear Wizard, Wrote you on friday about my intercooler coming apart.Since then I have replaced said item with another (standard) but have noticed that the turbo gauge goes off the scale even under moderate accelation. NOW...prior to all this happening,I moved my ECU to behind the bulkhead a la Ph 2.Could I have inadvertently bollocksed something up? I had to extend the timing sensor wires and the vaccuum pipe the latter with softer smaller diameter silicone tubing. Could either of these two not being right cause this over boosting? Please help , I daren't go out! Cheers Steve Sheldon. Answer: I would check that your actuator hoses have not split as this would cause this. I can't see the intercooler or ignition module effecting the boost unless you inadvertantly damaged the actuator circuit. |
| ID: 1314 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No fluid pressure! Question: My motor has just failed it's MOT on rear brakes. The offside rear caliper is not working at all from the pedal but the handbrake is working (now i've adjusted it). I've had a look inside the caliper and the seals seem fine, i've tried bleeding but nothin. I've taken the pipes off as far back as the load sensitive pressure regulating valve and fluid is gettin through to there. Help me, I've run out of ideas! Oh, how do you get the handbrake cable out of the rear calipers? Answer: Is your rear brake pipe dented or crushed? Try replacing it with a new one as it will only bee cheap to get made up. The rear callipers are a problem when they get old as they don't do enough work to keep in good trim. Also the cable seizes into its hole. If you cant get it out after spraying with a releasing agent like plus gas then you will have to punch it out. This will almost deffinantly damage the cable which will need replacing. If you can afford it, it may be worth renewing both rear callipers and brake cables as well as the pipes. |
| ID: 1315 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gay pedal Question: wiz, i have a problem, after a pad change, all of them all around, i tried to bleed the front offside brake, but nothing came out , just a dribble, this also happened on the nearside front brake, i tried the nearside rear but the bleed nipple came off(shall i drill it out or new caliper), then i bled the rear offside and this actually worked, whats going on, as the brakes didn't work then they did, when i went out for a test drive the brake pedal felt shit, went to the floor to get the brakes to work, i reckon this is air but the buggers won't bleed, i am totally confused, before changing pads the pedal was fine, is it air in the system or summin else? Answer: I expect you have dislodged some crud in the system whilst trying to bleed it. If you can't get the nipple out then replace the callipers. Then i would recommend a full flushing and refilling of the system with new fluid. Remove the nipples if it will aid flow to get clean fluid coming out of each wheel station and only refit when it is a good flow of clean fluid. Finnaly, don't forget that new pads will take a few hundred miles to bed in fully so they may be a bit worse than before to start with. |
| ID: 1316 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil leaking from rad Question: Hi wiz, I have recently replaced my rad with a new one and it has been fine until i looked today. There seems to be oil splattered on the top of the rad and in some of the elements. i think its the rad but i thought i would ask anyway. (Before i take it off and back to the shop.) Many thanks Steve K Answer: I would check all the connections first and if they are sound then get a new rad from the supplier. |
| ID: 1317 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Air Problem Question: Dear wiz, I have a 1.1 campus as you probably well know, but my problem is this, Due to the poo design of the air filter i have had to make some pipng up from exhaust wrap pipng stuff, the shiny 50mm stuff. This is because the original renault item that came with the car had more holes than swiss cheese! my question is this, is their a way i can get around using this exhaust ducting stuff as i cant find any that stretch confortably to the filter inlet and it stretchs and brakes after 2-3months which is getting a bit expensive , so i wish to know if its possible that some pipe from a GTT or other car will do the job as i cant find any as most of the cars at the scrappy have really short bits that are no use to me. Hope u can help as this is getting very annoying and power draining especially in traffic!!! Thanks wiz, KiP Answer: I can't think of anything off of the top of my head but how about getting either normal black rubber pipe or silicon pipe from a motor factor to do the job. |
| ID: 1318 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Need more power Question: hello wiz, i have had my renault 5 for a couple of months now and want a lot more power. I live miles away from any of the performance tuners and am not to machanically minded. where whould you suggest i start to get monster power from?? any help much appreciated Answer: To start with you will need a Haynes manual as they are a godsend for the mechanic or home DIY tuner. Firstly fit a decent air filter and exhaust. Then you want to either flow the standard intercooler as per the article on this site or replace it with an alloy one. Up the boost by fitting a bleed valve (in car or under bonnet) as per the articles again, to the red section on the gauge (or about 14psi if you have a secondary gauge.) or just wind in the actuator arm to shorten it and give more boost. This will give you about 140 bhp and a good base to modify from. Once you have done the above things it may be worth while getting the car set up on a rolling road to ensure the fuelling is correct. |
| ID: 1319 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wet wet wet Question: dear wiz ive got a puddle in the drivers side foot well. any ideas where the water could be coming in?and i havent got a sunroof. cheers jack. Answer: Check the windscreen for the little sealing piece at the bottom. If that is ok try the door seals, ariel, floor bungs or rear windows (unlikely if the water is in the front only) If the water is sweet smelling then it could be coolant leaking from the heater matrix so keep an eye on the level in the header tank. You could try spraying the car with a jetwash or hose while someone else looks for trickles or spray coming into the car. |
| ID: 1320 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Heatshield Mountings Question: Hi Wizz, Was hoping you could help as i got no joy from the chat board I have had to replace my heatshield with a new one and i have a kevlar one from BB Tuning, now there are only two mounting bolts for the shield as it just covers the turbo, one goes in to the top mounting (that is the bracket on the side of the head) and the other hole on the heatshield is down the side of the turbo (just below) and there is nowhere for the bolt to go. I have ordered a bracket from Renault that BB gave me the part number for but i cant see where it is supposed to go. Does it bolt on to the mounting that holds up the warm air feed pipe to the air filter? Please Help! Steve Answer: I am sorry but i have never seen a BB heatshield in the flesh (kevlar?) Your best bet is to ring Andy at BB whilst looking at the car so he can direct you in the right direction. |
| ID: 1321 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Brakes and steering questions Question: Hi Wiz Is it true that Willwood four pot calipers do not contain some dust seals which makes them a high maintanence caliper (eg shite gets stuck in places that it shouldnt)?? OR did a tuner tell me a porky cos he wants me to buy his brake kit?? Secondly, I recently had a severe creak at the front of my car turned out to be a loose passenger side wishbone. no more creaks!! However when I give the car a large right one, it wants too pull to the right very hard, it drives pretty straight when im chilling, but if the Turbo goes higher than about 12-13psi it pulls of course and I have to correct the steering to straighten up the car?? Any Ideas wiz?? Respect!! Answer: Not sure about the willwoods but as they are mainly meant for racing then they may not have road type seals. Have you tried the tightness of the drivers side wishbone? |