| ID: 1322 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: just a quicky Question: Hello there, just thought i would ask your opinion on somthing my friend,picture this if you can:-)On off the throttle in first and second gear and hardly even getting in third,the turbo spins up to say 10 psi every time,and then dumps.The car goes to 4000 rpm then comes to idle with the turbo still doing somthing like 130,000 rpm,Would you say the tick over oil pressure supply is enough to keep the unit from over heating and damaging the standard bearings?HHhhmmm cheers:-) Answer: As there is no load on the turbo due to the back pressure being dumped, i would say the oil supply would be more than up to the job as it only needs a film to run on anyway! If it wasn't up to the job then people would be blowing turbos up every day! |
| ID: 1323 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: adjusting the boost! Question: is it possible to increase the psi my car runs at without putting too much strain on the engine? ive heard that 15psi is alright but i just want to double check before i do it, as i dont want to keep blowing head gaskets! cheers T.wiz Answer: As long as the fuelling is set up correctly then it is possible to use 20 psi on a standard engine but i wouldn't recommend it. |
| ID: 1324 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cracked liner!!!!!!!!!! Question: is it possable to use second hand liners , i removed my head becouse i thought i had blown the head gasket , the head and gasket was ok it, was the liner on the altanator side that had cracked . i have a second hand piston and liner ETC ETC can this be used to cut the cost a bit and if so what else do i need ? i have uprated head gasket and bolts , do i need new shells ? and any tip 4 doing the job in car thanks wizard!!!!!!!. Answer: You can use second hand parts but you will need new liner seals from Renault (unless Andyspares do them) they will set you back a few quid but if the old one is disturbed it needs changing else you will end up with water in the sump. Renew the bearings if they look like they need it! |
| ID: 1325 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: replacement engine Question: I am considering buying a renault 5 with major engine problems. When it is turned over with the spark plugs removed water comes out of no. 1 cylinder spark plug hole. The vehicle has been stood like this for approx. 3 months. Any advice on what this could be and how much damage is likely to have been caused with it being sat like this with water in the head? Also wher'es the best place to buy a standard replacement engine for diy fitting? Thanks. Ian Answer: The water sat in the cylinder may have corroded the head and will have rusted the rings and liners. It will either have come from a cracked liner or blown head gasket (between water jacket and cylinder) It is possible that the head has cracked but it is less likely. A standard engine is available from Renault still (I think) but is not cheap, and I know GT Tuning used to sell them but i think you are better off getting the engine rebuilt with new pistons, liners etc for a lot less than the price of a new engine. |
| ID: 1326 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 17s Question: hello wizard, ive read steve raes guide to fitting 17s and all the previous questions asked about them,but all i wanna know is how much would the necessary work cost me if i got someone to do it. Oh and who would you recommend. cheers fella Answer: Any body shop should be able to do it but i have no preferences. |
| ID: 1327 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: excess boost Question: hi wiz ...when i give my car more than a 3rd throttle in any gear the turbo cuts in and nearly bends the needle of the boost gauge and all hell seems to break loose, unless i back off the throttle it keeps going until the engine catches up. I'm new to turbos but not engines so i'd like to tackle it myself,the actuator seemed to be showing a lot of thread on the a-rod and the dump valve has a split and ill fitted silcon type washer.As i screwed off the end of the d-valve it was clear that the previous owner could'nt fit a simple washer without damaging it. i'v refitted the washer and it's mostly damage to the side wall.It looks like the ex owner has fitted the actuator feeds ( and a few more ) with clear petrol hose as well. Is my prob likely to be none,one,two or all of these badly describe probs. Answer: First things first, get the d/v sorted and then check the actuator pipework has no leaks or splits. If it is ok then he may have fitted the actuator hoses on the wrong way round. Try swopping them and see if the boost still goes off the clock. |
| ID: 1328 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: polishing manifolds Question: Hey there wiz! long time since i last asked a question so here comes a good un. I have managed to get myself a secondhand engine in good working order, so i can work on it and then just swap it over for my other one. I am going to do lots of work on the top end and was wondering how do u polish the exhaust monifold in the middle as i cant seem to get up there? lots of luv Andrew!! Answer: I would suggest something like a dremel tool with a fine stone to get it smooth and then a polishing wheel attachment to buff it up! When you have finnished, please post a piccy for me to check out. |
| ID: 1329 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Lost my head Pt 111..... Question: Dear Wizard, thought you might be interested in how the saga of the intercooler panned out.Needless to say it was my fault .In swapping the ECU to behind the bulkhead I snapped the outlet hose on the vacuum capsule.I unscrewed said unit to investigate.........This evidently snaps tiny wire inside.Mr Haynes ....bless him does in fact warn you about this, as I subsequently found out. Anyway having mended outlet I refitted ECU and thats when the problems started! So, let that be a warning ....Don't fiddle! Seriously though ,this saga could help explain other members problems perhaps with overboosting and overheating you never know. Anyway, a S/H ECU from the scrappy.. as good as new! Thanks for your help, Steve Sheldon. Answer: It was my pleasure young man! |
| ID: 1330 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Nitrous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Question: Firstly thanks for the info on getting 200bhp from my Renault. I was well on the way to beating that shitty Uno Turbo. BUT the swines gone and fitted a 60bhp nitrous kit. I'm not one to keep up with the Jones', but out of interest would it be safe to get one for my 5? What extra safety precautions should I take with the regard to the engine? Is there anyone who supplies them for the 5, or anyone who could? Thanks again!!! Answer: A nitrous kit will increase power violently and that is why a lot of cars blow up when it is used. A good solid bottom end is needed and i would expect forged pistons to be a good idea too. |
| ID: 1331 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: bodykit Question: Just another quick question. What is Carisma's phone number, what is the name of the bodykit on the silver demo car featured 2000? And any ideas if they still supply it and its rough price? Thanks again! Answer: Name: Carisma Phone Number: 01206 564455 Kit Name: GT5 I am sure they still supply it and it is around £1300 i believe. |
| ID: 1332 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: flow the intercooler Question: mr wizard you have mentioned an artical about how to flow the intercooler i have searched the site and it is not to be found so can you please help ta very much neal Answer: My appologies, that article hasn't been added yet but keep your eyes peeled for it in future. |
| ID: 1333 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: New engine Question: Wiz, I've owned my R5 for about 3 years now and I've spent a lot of money on engine goodies such as hybrid turbo, alloy intercooler etc...... but I've never done anything to the bottom end. My plan is to buy another engine and rebuild it from scratch. My question is what components will need to be replace in order to have a strong engine capable of handling 200BHP+??. Obviously I will use a lot of components from my old engine such as the silicon hoses, waterpump etc. I want to know the actual spec of the internal engine components. Thanks in advance Chris Roberts Answer: You can have 200bhp on a standard bottom end but get it lightend and balanced for reliable, smooth power delivery and better idle. You could go for forged pistons, wire ringed liners, knife edged crank, lightend flywheel etc etc etc it is really down to you. More money spent on the bottom end will not mean more power or reliability if the fuelling or timing are not set correctly. |
| ID: 1334 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pipe on the air filter Question: hi wiz, just wanted to know what the pipe is on the air filter. I know one is a cold air supply and the other is a hot air supply and there is a themostatic valve. but whats it for and where does the hot air pipe go to? it seems to go under the turbo?? i am thinking of fitting a direct induction air filter and this hot air pipe dosent seem to be accomodated for ?? what happens to this pipe?? sorry about the long winded question advice much appreciated as always Answer: The pipe runs to a bracket down under the turbo and it draws hot air from there. The valve is supposed to open and close the hot air feed to help with cold start and running. You just bin the pipe if you fit a cone filter or alternatively you could run a cold air feed from the bumper into the hot air side and glue the flap half open to give you two cold air feeds onto a standard replacement type filter. |
| ID: 1335 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: more stuff Question: I must seem like a right bitch with all my questions at the moment! But anyway, where will I find out how I fit the in-car adjustable boost kit on this site? And also do you know of anywhere that can give my alloys that ""chromed"" or ""mirrored effect? Thanks again Dave!!!!! Answer: The in car boost is fitted as follows, decide where you want the knob to go on the dash and check that there is enough room behind it for the pipework. I find that to the left of the steering wheel is ideal. Drill the dash to size and trial fit the knob. Cut the front most actuator pipe and ""T"" into it with either a max boost limiter or ""T"" piece. Remember to fit the restrictor if you don't have an adjustable max boost limiter. You now have another choice, either drill new holes in the bulkhead for the pipes (remembering to use grommets) or run the pipes through an existing hole. Remember to have a pipe as an exhaust from the valve leading into the engine bay or you will get fumes in the car from the boost circuit. As for the alloys, try looking in the back of car mags for a suitable shop as i don't know of any off hand. |
| ID: 1336 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Brakes setup Question: In your opinion what is the best brake setup for fast road use, What parts (discs calipers and pads) would you recomend ? Is getting a 285 brake conersion with caliper xtentions as good as wacking on a set of 4 pot calipers?? Which 4 pots fit the five and are for road use?? So many Questions...Sorry!! Thanks Munish Answer: I would forget the 4 pots for road use as they are a lot of money for the job they do. I would say go for a 285 kit from Rally Design or one of the tuners with the pads they recommend as well as a braided brake hose kit for more pedal feel. |
| ID: 1337 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dash Lights Question: What a surprise. I have another electrical problem One minute the rad fan works and then the connection dries up and it stops. I took the connector off and put white grease in the plug. It started working. Does it matter which way the rad switch goes back on? Now when I turn the ignition on the lights on the dials light up ok but when I turn the engine on the orange dial background light up but very dimly but the white section behind the Oil and temperature gauge do not ( but they do when only the ignition is on). I think people are right in saying the car is a demon. Its haunted. Got to love it though. Thanks, Phil Answer: It doesn't matter which way round the wires go on the rad switch. I expect the connector block / earth is at fault. |
| ID: 1338 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: screamin turbo! Question: hi wiz car just started with a small prob,on full boost 18 psi (standard turbo) there is a small screeching noise as if the turbo is struggling to produce that amount of boost,or as if the air filter is restricting air flow(using pipercross bolt on),i have been running this boost 4 6 months with no probs,do u think the turbo is on its way out?or wot? i hav also got a gt tuning front mounted intercooler to fit to my evo rs bumper i want to run 24psi with this intercooler,is it time 4 a roller bearing do u think? Answer: I would say that the noise is the turbo blades touching the casing and it is time for a new turbo. You will need a biggy to feed that intercooler pipework to 24psi so maybe you should go for a roller bearing type. |
| ID: 1339 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: twin dump valves Question: IF I run about 21 psi is there any advantage in fitting two group A dump valves or will they not work. I already have one group A dump valve. I know some really tuned engines have two or even three. Answer: The extra dump valve will release the extra pressure quicker but not by a measurable amount. It will however extend the life of the diaphram. |
| ID: 1340 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: number plate Question: do u know if u have to show a number plate on the front of your car in britain, i have seen cars without them?? Where can i get a open mouth grill from, like the one on the carisma car? CHEERS WIZZ Answer: It is a legal requirement to show a full size number plate on all UK cars and anything without one is looking at 3 points from the rozzers! You can get the grill from Carisma on 01206 564455. |
| ID: 1341 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: volvo turbo... Question: Hi wiz, ive heard a lot about these volvo engines and how they can be put in a 5, can i use the turbo from one of these and if so what boost can it run safely, thanks for any help you can give. cheers biggsy.... Answer: You alreadty have the turbo as it is a T2! |
| ID: 1342 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: did you find the answer? Question: hi wiz, me again, i was wondering if you ever found the answer to a question that i put on here about a cool sounding RST. I sent a msg a while ago asking the same thing but the dodgy connection hasnt sent the msg to you. By the way, if you didnt get the site adress with the clip on it's www.drive.to/ish, MPEG at bottom of page. cheers wizard, keep up the good work!!!! Answer: I have no sound at the moment so i am afraid you will either have to ask people on the boards or wait till i get it sorted. I wish i was a computer wiz as well as a turbo wiz!!! |
| ID: 1343 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Knocking! Question: I have a knocking from the front left of the motor. It occurs when I am pulling off and at the end of breaking. It is only a small knock but it has only started happening recently. It is only the one knock and is happening more frequently as time goes on. I think that the drivers side is starting to knock aswell. It does not make the noise when going over bumps! I have an idea that it is the stub axle carrier's are worn and need replacing and I just wanted a second opinion. What do you think? Answer: I would suspect the front wishbone bushes are worn and maybe the balljoints as well. Get it looked at by a pro if you are not sure what to look for. |
| ID: 1344 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: flutter Question: Wiz I seem to get a flatting or fluttering sound from the boost circuit when i accelerate, this is only when i actually put my foot on the floor i don't really hear it on accelerating when the pedal is only 3/4 of the way down? Do you think it is the actuator or the d/v or just a split? P.s It doesn't matter what boost i run, but the boost gauge does drop back a little when on max boost for long periods when go into the big revs Answer: I would look at the actuator pipework and maybe even the actuator diaphram. |
| ID: 1345 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: What Turbocharger Question: We are building an 11 second quarter mile Renault 5 GTTurbo, and was wondering what turbo you would recommend? Many thanks DDAutosports Answer: Well if you don't know then who will? |
| ID: 1346 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: unexpected BHP? Question: Hi Wizard, I'm not getting the power that I should be given the spec of my car - please help! I've put on a full magnex system, gt tuning Gp A induction system, NGK racing plugs, 135 main jet, dump valve, all the hoses are in good condition, adjustable boost - 14 psi (measured from the top of the carb) and an adjustable timing sensor at 6 degrees. The engine is well serviced and the standard turbo is in good condition with only 25,000 miles on it. The car runs evenly and apparently healthily (uses no oil at all) - but the power is only slightly above that of a standard car ~115-125 bhp. I suspect the car is running slightly rich, as there is a fuelly smell from the exhaust and very light soot deposits on the back of the car, however the plugs have only slight deposits on them which I am told is normal? Any suggestions? - Some have suggested wastegate problem, or perhaps a cracked liner. If you agree with either of these suggestions can you describe any other symtoms? Thanks in advance Will White Answer: I would say that the 135 main jet was too big for your boost level (more suited to 18-20psi) and the overfueling is sapping your power. A perfectly running car will have no real deposits on the plugs and they will be a sort of light brown colour. I would suggest a strapped/flowed (or new alloy) intercooler and raising the boost to 16-18psi and see what the power is like then! (165 bhp?) Or you could just replace the standard main jet and fit a 90 or 100 air corrector and expect about 140 bhp. |
| ID: 1347 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Poor boost! Question: I have been running 1bar of boost through my turbo, the turbo is brand new, I have always run one bar even with the old turbo. I was out in it the other night, racing my mate, when I noticed it wasn't running as much boost, about .8 bar, I didn't think anything of it but now it only runs .5, I've tried adjusting the actuator but had no effect. Any ideas what could be causing this? Answer: I would say that you have a leak somewhere. Check out the boost circuit pipework, dump valve, intercooler, valve on the bulkhead that is connected to the perc fan and main boost hose. It is also possible that the actuator diaphram has split too. |
| ID: 1348 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: STARTING? Question: Hi,just wonderd why it is when i start my car from cold it starts first time,but if i drive for a while and jump out eg go to the shop and get back in it will start first time again!but if i get out of the car for about half an hour or more it takes a couple of turns eg turn the key once but hold it there whilst its turning over!why is this? my perc fan runs as well! cheers wiz! Answer: You may still be getting a little bit of heat soak into the fuel causing evapouration of the highly volatile part of the fuel which is good for starting. Are both of your perc fan sensors fitted and wired up? (one in carb one on turbo heat shield) |
| ID: 1349 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: snoring Question: when i put my foot down and the turbo winds up i get a snoring sound coming from what seems to be around the drivers side. it sounds like sucking a mcdonalds milkshake when theres no more left. any ideas? thanks. Answer: I expect you have a boost leak. Try blocking the take off on the intercooler to carb hose that goes to the valve on the bulkhead as these can fail and let boost out through the perc fan. |
| ID: 1350 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: speedo running 10 mph slower than normal Question: wheels are two inches larger than normal size.I have 15in instead of standard 13in.How do I compensate ? Answer: I would guess from your question that you have 195/50/15 tyres fitted as these are larger than the standard 13's. Try fitting 195/45/15 as these are the correct tyre for the speedo. (well they are as near as you can get!) |
| ID: 1351 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CLOUDY! Question: Back again!took the car out today and this aint the first time ive noticed this but when i slam the right foot down and giving it some i notice in the rear view a light cloud of what i can describe as smoke!? now i do now that other cars do this as well eg hdi motors and other peterol cars with turbos!why is this and is it normall,my car has larger jets and 14psi cheers! Answer: I expect it is just over fuelling. If your jet is 130 or bigger then i expect you are just wasting fuel. Also when you floor it you get the extra fuel from the accelerator pump. You could try reducing the amount of fuel pumped but i expect it will do more harm than good. |