| ID: 1262 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: replaceing turbo hints Question: hi wizz, ive blown my turbo, ive taken it off(not easy in the pitch black with a torch),ive a new one on the way what i want to know is, is there anything else you can suggest that i need to do when i replace it other than what the haynes manual says,thanx in advance glenn Answer: I would ensure you have a good flow of oil from the feed pipe before you refit the new turbo. Disconnect the timing sensor so the engine will not start and just crank it over on the starter until you have a solid flow from the oil feed pipe. Why did your turbo blow? Was it too much boost? Was it lack of oil? Was it just an old standard unit? You must ensure the fault if there was one is fixed before the new turbo goes on. |
| ID: 1263 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cooling pipes Question: Wiz,I would be greatfull if you could tell me where the small pipes go around the carb. *Does the one from wpump go to front or rear inlets on side of carb? * The one from carb to manifold does it go driver or passenger side of inlet manifold? * Then the one from manifold to turbo does it go to the underside of turbo? Also does the crank breather from rocker cover go to top or side inlets on oil swirl pot? THANKS. Answer: If you have the correct pipes to fit the car then they sort of lead to their own connections. Water pump goes to front of carb, back of the carb goes to manifold on passenger side and drivers side of manifold goes to top of turbo. (I think this is correct as i am doing it from memory but i will check and modify this answer if i am wrong!) |
| ID: 1264 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: TWINGO TURBO Question: My mates knows the lad with the twingo turbo and its for sale! Problem is though thats it left hand drive, How do I go on with the insurance?. My mate says that I can get a Traders Policy , i am a mechanic and i have been for the last 3 years, could i do this? Cheers Answer: If you get a traders policy they charge you for each car you have at the time and then add some on top of that for the other cars you buy in the future. It is only worth having if you do actually trade. Left hand drive will only put normal insurance up a bit but you must declare everything with a car like that. |
| ID: 1265 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: how much??????? Question: hi there wizard i was hoping you could tell me how much i should expect to pay for my head to be skimmed. cheers wiz Answer: £20-40 should be about right depending on the company. |
| ID: 1266 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: wont start Question: HELP.... Plz Wiz,i need help,right friday evening went out in car to pick up my son, it was raining, car was running fine, had a little race with a pug 205, blitzed it (i did cane the car alittle but there was no probs) when i got home the car was running fine. switched off locked up that was it.Next morn i fitted another back wiper cos mine was shot and also fitted a better battery.Then i tryed to start her up but it just cranked over and overso i swaped the battery back but still same.Heres what i know (sorry for big essay) 1.the fuel pump doesnt prime when i turn the ignition 2.there isnt a spark from the ht lead that comes off the ecu 3.i have swapped the tdc sensor 4.i have swapped the ecu for another(dont know if the ecu ive swapped works) 5i have power to the fuel pump relay under dash and to ecu ive been told the is another fuel pump relay in drivers back quarter is that ture and what does it do?and ive also been told that if i put my multi meter to the wires that come from the tdc sensor that i should get an ac current when i crank the car over if this is true i have tried it and i dont.......Thanx wiz soz again for dragin it out. Answer: Are you sure you have power out of the relay next to the ignition module near the heater fan under the bonnet? I would say that this is the cause if there is no fuel pump and no spark. You should have a resistance through the timing sensor (not sure of readings) but you will not get a voltage with the wires disconnected. |
| ID: 1267 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Camber Question: evening old man After lowering the 5, the camber seems a bit on the excessive side on the front wheels, and has shafted the tyres, can i adjust the camber, with using those things from gtt tuning. Nick Answer: You could get the top mounts made up to remove the unwanted camber or you could just elongate the holes in the strut a little to get the wheel more upright. |
| ID: 1268 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ok new rad still to hot Question: hi wiz, ok i still have a heat problem, i have bought a new copper rad and have blead the sys but i still have a heat problem. I cheacked the oil pipes for blockages and kinks but they are ok. The only other thing i have noticed is my water pump makes a rumbling screaching noise every now and again. could it be the pump. I have noticed that when driving faster the temp goes through the roof but the fan doesnt come on, (it does on idle). Thanks Steve Keating Answer: It is a possibility the pump vanes have sheered off or the pump is siezing every now and again. If there is no water circulating then it will get hotter the more you rev it. |
| ID: 1269 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: boost gauge light Question: hi wiz, just bought a boost gauge which has two metal connectors on it for the light could you tell me which wires should be connected to it and where from, iam fitting it in the clock position ,do i just use the wires going to the clock? Answer: You can use the wires from the clock if you like. It is the easiest way to do it. Find the earth wire and the power wire that is only live when the lights are on if you want it switchable or the ignition fed power wire if you want it lit all the time. |
| ID: 1270 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: timing sensor mod Question: i read the article on swapping the two wires around to gain more power at lower revs. does this sacrifice power at higher revs to do this? also is this mod better for power than actually moving the sensor or is it better to have a combination of both. lastly is this mod more risky the more boost that you run as iam about to run 16psi very soon? p.s what kind of power gain are we talking about or is it in terms of drivability? Answer: There is no definitive answer to this question but some people say the car picks up quicker with the wires swapped. The difference is only up to certain revs i believe and is not present at high revs whereas moving the sensor will advance it all the time and can cause problems. |
| ID: 1271 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Twin exit Question: Hi Wiz, I'm after the loudest exhaust possible, I have decided I want a rear exit as apposed to a side exit. What’s the best system do you think? Ideally I would like a twin exit, i.e a 4"" pipe in the original position and another 4""'er on the right of the bumper, I am aware of the aux fuel tank getting in the way but is it possible to fit the second pipe and heat shield it sufficiently? Or would you recommend just doing away with the second fuel tank? If so what’s the procedure? I notice Steven Rae has done it on his 5 in the cars section any idea's what he did? Any tips welcomed warmly. Jono Answer: To start with, Steve Rae's right hand exhaust is a trim available from GT Tuning to match the other side. It is not functional. It may be possible to get someone like powerflow to make up a system with twin exits that work but as you say space is tight. I expect it is possible to do away with the auxillary tank and just fit a standard tank or a pipe to join the filler to the GT main tank but i don't know anyone who has done this. |
| ID: 1272 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lights Question: hi wiz, i have a problem with my rear light on the drivers side the brake light works but when im not braking theres nothing the bulbs new any ideas as to what the problem could b cheers Answer: Could be a bad connection or broken wire to the rear light cluster. Remove the cluster and have a look! |
| ID: 1273 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running crap!! Question: When I accelerate, at about half throttle, the car seems to bog right down, but when I floor it it seems ok (ish). I have noticed that some pipes are split on the crank case breather system, all four of them need replacing. Could this be the problem? Answer: Could well be! Replace them and if the problem is still there, get back to me. |
| ID: 1274 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel Question: would it effect the cars performance if I blocked the fuel overflow pipe up from the carb? Answer: Why would you want to? Is there fuel coming out of it? If so then your carb needs a rebuild as the diaphram has split. |
| ID: 1275 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: breather pipes Question: Wiz,cheers for helping me with my cooling pipes,could you tell me if the breather pipe from rocker cover goes to the top or side inlets on the oil pot on driver side of engine.THANKS Answer: Rocker cover goes to side and top goes to manifold. |
| ID: 1276 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: !Clutch Question: Hi I've got an odd problem with my car when giving my 5 a bit booting and I go for very quick gear changes the clutch seem to slip! But booting the car in high gears the car is fine. Revs don't go through the roof and the speed goes up with the revs! Just had a new Renault gearbox and Volvo 440-turbo clutch put in my baby before crimbo! Plus the nice RAC man fitted a new Renault clutch cable about a month before the gearbox was replaced as well as uprated engine mounts have been fitted! This is worrying me as I'm on my 3rd gearbox and 3rd clutch in as many years! Any ideas Andy! Answer: I think you must be very harsh to do that to the clutch. I would say it is slipping a little due to the rapid changes, try changing a little slower and you shouldn't get the slip! Do you have a lot of torque as that clutch is only good for about 200 ft/lbs. |
| ID: 1277 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Temp warning light on Question: Dear Wizard, I hope you may bless me with some of your words of wisdom. I've recently changed the water pump. I bled the system as per the Hayes manual so that both bleed screws trickled water. The amount of coolant put in seems to be a similar quantity to that lost whilst replacing the pump. However a few days after the temp warning light has come on, even through the temp gauge itself is on one third. Have I got an electrical problem (i.e. a duff temp sender) or is there still air tramped in the system. I've noticed that there is occasionaly a low whining from the drivers side of the car, when driving along but this stops when the car is stationary. Also there apears to be a lot of air coming out of the radiator top hose bleed screw. I don't think the head gasket has gone, as the car runs fine. Cheers, Nick Answer: You may have an air bubble but to be safe i would get a pressure test done. Better safe than sorry! |
| ID: 1278 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: MOT question Question: Hi Wiz I have got a 3 point harness fitted in my car, It came with it's own bolts so I have had to remove the seat belt fastener by the hand brake and the other part of the seat belt the drivers door. I also have my back seats still, so I have had to remove the seat belt fastner in the back seat behind me. Is this going to pass the MOT, or will I need to have all my seat belts working. I also have different tyres at the front of my car. Do the tyres have to be the same tred pattern to pass? hope it makes sense John Answer: As long as the harness has a british standard kite mark then it will pass MOT. As for the rear belt you have three options. 1) Remove the rear seats, no seats, no belts! 2) Refit the standard belt fastener under the harness bolt in the rear so you have a full set of belts. or 3) Remove the harness and refit all standard belt parts just for the MOT! As for the tyres, they must be the same size ie 195/45/15 on each axle and both be radial (not crossply) but the tread pattern can be different although i wouldn't recommend it as it gives you different levels of grip. |
| ID: 1279 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: side exit Question: Hi wiz I am getting really pissed off with my 4"" scorpion rattling all of the time. I have had it re hung over and over again. I tightened it up the other day and it is still doing it. It isn't knocking on the rear valance but everywhere else. I was going to phone up k-tec about their side exit as mentioned in the newsletter. Is this a good choice. What do they sound like and will it fit better than the scorpion and not knock about. where do i get the bit to fill in the origanal hole in the bumper? thanks stuart oh one more thing, how much roughly do you reckon it will cost me to have my engine mounts changed? sorry for asking so much Answer: The side exit is a good exhaust and you should have no fitting problems. They are louder than most rear exit systems as the silencer is smaller but it is a good sound, not like a nova with a big bore 4"". GT Tuning do a filler piece that comes with their own centre exit exhaust but i do not know if it is available seperately. There are three other options. 1) Make a filler piece out of ally or similar and spray to match the bumper. 2) Get a piece of another standard bumper to match and fit it for a seamless rear bumper. or 3) Buy a rear bumper like the K-Tec one that has no cut out for the exaust! |
| ID: 1280 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wont Start..... part 2 Question: Thanx Wiz ,You was right ...the multi meter gave me a reading of 12 volt to the ingnition module but when i put my test light on it there was nothing.I traced the wire back to a junction block behind the fag lighter/ashtray.The pin for the power wasnt conecting propely. You are definatly owed a BIG drink Answer: My pleasure to help! |
| ID: 1281 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Knock/Pinking Sensor 2 Question: Wiz mate, for this knock sensor you said I will need an extension piece that plugs onto the sensor wire and then goes through the bulkhead into the ignition module, do you know where I can get one from mate?? Cheers Ben Answer: I would try any local breakers or scrappy and if they don't have one try Europarts as Ian holds a large stock of parts or worst case scenario try Renault. |
| ID: 1282 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Speaker sizes? Question: Wiz, After sorting out my engine troubles, I have now decided that the standard speakers must go! But what sizes can I use in the front and rear without having to cut around stuff? (Thoughts of hacking my Saxo's door panel to bits comes to mind). Cheers, Jon. Answer: You can get up to 6.5"" in the front and 4"" in the rear if i remember rightly. |
| ID: 1283 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pump Question: Dear Mr Potter I've been offered a black D Reg R5 GTT, with mint bodywork, however the oil pump is said to be knackered! the guy is asking for AROUND £300 FOR THE CAR! is it worth that, and with the oil pump gone is there anything else that could have gone wrong related to it? Thanx Answer: Mr Potter! How dare you! He is just an amateur compared to me! I almost feel like refusing to answer your question but i am a generous old fool. Buy the car if the bodywork is as good as you say but be prepared to replace the engine and turbo if the oil flow was stopped whilst the engine was running. It will be worth it for spares or a project. |
| ID: 1284 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Temp warning lamp on - update Question: Wizard, Thanks for the info. I think I've got to the bottom of the problem now, as explained below: 1) The lamp comes on 'cause the water pump sender is bust! I've fited a new sender and the light goes out. 2) The low wining noise is not the water pump after all, its the clutch, GULP! Probably the thrust bearing on its way out. Therefore I guess its fixed! It's not losing or using any coolant and I've re-bled the system as per the Haynes man. Going to check the compresion on the weekend to be on the safe side. Thanks again, Nick Answer: okey dokey! |
| ID: 1285 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Underseat ICE Question: Dear Wizard, I'm planning to fit a CD autochanger to my system, but don't want to fit it in the boot or in the glove compartment. I throught I could mount it on a MDF board under the passenger seat. Obviously this would make changing CD's difficult when there a passenger occupying the seat, but other than that it seams like as good a place as any to me. Would this work, if not what would you recomend? Ta very much, Nick Answer: It is a fine idea as long as you don't get a water leak into the footwell. (As the 5 is renowned for!) |
| ID: 1286 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pedals Question: wiz, do you know of anyone who make pedal covers for the 5 as they dont fit the throttle pedal, or any way of fitting them will help thanx add Answer: Try asking the tuners if the do them as i don't know any specific ones for the 5. |
| ID: 1287 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil pump UNCOVERED! Question: Dear Generous old fool. The problem isn't as bad as first thought!!! The oil pressure guage is steady at about 2-3, but the oil light is very slightly illuminated at all times! The car runs perfectly and the engine has very recently been rebuilt! My initial thoughts are the oil pressure switch! or possibly the pump on its way out! If i get the car, is there anyway of testing for the source of the problem, before going ahead with buying either of the components! p.s. the car is apparently a previous show car, are you aware of a phase one black show car, with a leather porsche interior! this car is very mysterious and could be the steal of the century!!!!!!!!!!!! from Flash (trainee wizard!!) Answer: Young flash (in the pan?) Don't buy this car! Just give me his phone number and i will sort things out! :-) Buy the car, renew the earth to the dash or the sender and i think your problem will go away! |
| ID: 1288 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cool noise Question: hi wiz, im wondering if you can tell me what it is that makes the cool noise on cars like rs t'bos, It sounds like... Frr rr rr rr. (you may have to roll your tongue to get the right sound!) Its just that i downloaded an mpeg of an rst and it sounds way better than a normal DV (tssss) If you have any idea what im talking about could you tell me if and where i can get the same sound. If you want the mpeg (or anyone else) email me and ill send it, also have mpeg of flaming fiesta rst. Cheers for your time.... the challenge has been set........ Answer: It may be down to the type of dump valve as an RS cannot use the normal vent to air type that the 5 can. I believe they use a recirculating type. What is the url for this site with the mpegs? I will check it out and may add to the reply! |
| ID: 1289 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: turbo units Question: How you doing, Could u tell me the range of the boost u get from the following; T2.5 eg, T2 cuts in at 2000 rpm and starts to fade at 5000rpm, i got to get the spec so i can build it right the first time round. thanks wizard... Answer: It all depends on wheels used, ie trims, cutbacks etc Try talking to Graham at Universal Turbo's |
| ID: 1290 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Footwell puddle. Question: I think you have been asked this before Mr. Oz but what is the most likely cause of water in the footwell? I have replaced door seals but it continues to baffle me. Answer: It can be a variety of things. Leaking heater matrix (leaking coolant smells sweet) Leaking sunroof Leaking aerial Leaking rear windows Leaking down through door via window seal Holes in floor etc |
| ID: 1291 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starting Question: Hi wiz, My 5 is finding stating hard in the mornings (after its had a little run it starts find the next time), if I run it daily its not too bad (takes about 5 goes). It’s turning over but not firing very well. If I don't start it for about 3 days it more or less want fire up (takes about 15 mins) then it drains the battery. The spark pugs leads and dizzy cap are fairly new. I've never had any starting problems before. Please help add Cheers mate... Answer: It may be a lazy starter motor draining too much power which in turn doesn't leave enough for the spark. Try removing the spark plugs, so the engine can turn freely, fit the plugs to the leads and earth them so you can see the sparks. It should give you a good blue spark. If the engine still doesn't want to turn freely then it could be the starter or the engine itself getting tight due to carbon build up. (Do you change the oil every 3000 miles?) |