| ID: 1232 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No parking! Question: Dear Wizard, Both on my car (Ph1) and my wife's phase 2,the rear wipers don't park anymore. Also her intermittent doesn't work either.I'm sure I've changed all he relevant relays etc but to no avail.Is there some mechanism in the motor that might be at fault? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Regards Steve Sheldon Answer: I believe that intermittant and park are controlled by a seperate fuse but i am not sure where it is. Sorry i cannot be of more help but try renault for the wiring diagram. |
| ID: 1233 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: headgasket????????? Question: Hi there turbo wizard when i parked up the other day my car was smoking from under the bonnet and the car was red hot! i left it over night started it the next day and it got hot again real hot it also chucks smoke out when i accelerate and makes a rattling noise too. any info would help! Answer: First of all i would check for compression to see what you get. It may be that the thermostat has gone if there is no real water loss. If you could get the compression check and give me more information i can help you more. |
| ID: 1234 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: central locking Question: Had the car for 3 years now and the central locking via the remote control has been fine (apart from replacing batteries).Now it has just stopped working.The batteries are brand new and ive checked the connection in the roof console above the interior lights and its ok.Can you swap these around with other cars? I take it you then have to get the remote as well .It works fine from the switch beside the leccy windows and i really need it to work as the car is de locked and im fed up with me mates taking the piss when i have to lock and open it by climbing in the boot . Cheers Mr Wizard Answer: You are correct in thinking that you need the circuit board from the roof and the keyfobs to get it working again. |
| ID: 1235 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: central locking motors Question: is there anywhere other than main dealer where i can get some brand new central locking motors from,the 1s i have r ceased and i need the proper 1s brand new,main dealer there £63 each,can i get um cheaper?? Answer: You could try somewhere like GSF (Andyspares) they may have them. |
| ID: 1236 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: running a sweet setup or not?? Question: alright wizard. i think i have set my car up, so that i don't have to worry or is there anything i am missing. i have a double capacity intercooler, group a carb, group n clutch, copper core rad, silcone water pipes. hybrid turbo capable of running 19psi, adjustable timing sensor,full side exit exhaust system, flowed turbo and turbo down pipe, group a induction kit, silcone boost hoses, group a dump valve, uprated brakes, group a head gasket, incar adjustable boost, nrg spark plug, magnicore ht leads. i am reading 18psi with my boost gauge plugged in to the pipe that runs into my dash. so any thoughts. i am thinking maybe a bigger turbo but due to my head gasket already being done its a bit pricey. would you say that i should not really encounter too may problems with my set up. thanks for your technical ear. Answer: Your setup sounds pretty solid as long as the fuelling is correct. You could go for a bigger turbo but you may start to encounter reliability problems over 20 psi. |
| ID: 1237 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: swirl pot and water works Question: Hey how ya doing, ive got my engine in bits due to the re-build, im gas flowing and up rating everything, i know the water ways differ cos i got the phase one, can i fit a swirl pot or will i have to get phase two water works? thanks!!!! Answer: Realistically you would need the whole phase 2 set up for it to work properly. You may be able to encorporate a swirl pot into the phase 1 system but i doubt its worth it. |
| ID: 1238 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Possible internal leak? Question: Im about to do a complete rebuild but i am slightly concerned about a fair amount of water loss i have experienced. Im guessing its a hose somewhere but I would hate to spend £££ only to find that once back in the car, that there is an internal leak. So my question is is it possible to have the head and bottom end tested for water leakage and could you advise me of any other diagnostic technique for this?? Many thanks in advance. Answer: Try getting the cooling system pressure tested at a garage. They just pump air into the system to pressurise it and you will either see water loss (external leak) or you won't (internal leak) |
| ID: 1239 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: vacuum hoses. Question: On the passenger (near) side of the carb (86 GT turbo) there are 2 small bore vacuum hoses. One goes to the ecu, and the other goes where? Is it just a fuel overflow hose. It is quite long but I can't fathom where it should go to. The car is running fine so I'm not too concerned. Cheers. Answer: It lets fuel out to beneath the engine out of harms way if the diaphram behind that part of the carb splits. It is fine. |
| ID: 1240 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: running rough Question: Dear Wizard, I have had this a couple of times before but it fixes itself after a day and so I never normally get the time to check what it is this time though it has lasted since the weekend. It's started to run really lumpy - almost as if it was mis-firing although there are no pops or bangs, just bad vibration, revs are about 200 lower than normal as well, The thing that really worries me though is that there's is a slapping noise from the bottom central back (bulk head end) of the engine and the blower seems to screech at mid boost. Could all this be called by a dodgy plug or HT lead or something more serious ?? cheers Answer: The revs could be affected by a plug or lead but the turbo wouldn't screech unless it was going off axis usually down to worn bearings. As for the slapping noise, it could be exhaust or gasket but not really sure! Could do with more info or another description of the noise. |
| ID: 1241 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Leaking Water Pump Question: Wiz, I've noticed that when the engine is cold the water pump leaks slightly. I can see water coming out just behind the pump pulley wheel, and then it drips on to the timing chain cover. It's only loosing a little bit and when the engine has warmed up the leak stops. Do you think the pump is damaged or is it just the gasket that is leaking? Occasionally you can here a whining noise, which I assume is air passing through the pump. I've heard that air in the system can damage the pump itself. How can I check if the pump has been damaged? Cheers mate, your a star. Nick Answer: Pump sounds knackered. Change it before you get airlocks in the system and blow the head gasket. |
| ID: 1242 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running Rough Additional Question: the noise sounds as if it's metal against metal against meatl slapping together, in time with revs, more audible though as revs increase. The thing is all 3: screech, judder and slap ! happen at the same time or not all, she either runs fine or has these symptoms - if it was something to do with the blower or a manifold it wouldn't return to running sweet for a 3-4 months would it ?? That's why I thought it may be something electric. Answer: I suppose it could be the starter motor sticking on but this is a weird one that i think you may have to take to a tuner to look at i'm afraid. |
| ID: 1243 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 16"" s and 35mm drop? Question: easy im looking to slap some 16""s on my R5 and also drop it by 35mm. Is this the most i could drop it without major arch surgery? Also what suspension would you recommend and roughly what price . much appreciated adrian Answer: Any of the brand name suspension kits should be fine from £200 up to coilovers at £450. You may need a few tweeks to the arches but nothing outside the realms of home mechanics! You may be able to go lower but i wouldn't risk it if you want to carry passengers. |
| ID: 1244 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: suspension Question: hello mate What do you think of spax suspion for R5s, they quoted me £450 for the fully adjustable RSX coilover kit. im not sure? adrian Answer: I would recommend the AVO coilover kit for the same money. |
| ID: 1245 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no damping Question: Hi wizard, thanx for all your help in the past :-). My small question is, I have Spax top adjustable suspension with an out-of-date warranty. The passenger side shocker no longer adjusts. You can turn the nut on top of shocker right up or down with no difference in firmness. So, my question is, do you know of anywhere that would be able to fix these as I cant afford new ones as i have just bought a new engine, are they serviceable. + GTtuning told me that they dont recommend them due to this problem. Thanx for reading................ Answer: Any Spax dealer will rebuild them but i expect it will be cheaper to buy new. |
| ID: 1246 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: takes time 2 warm up Question: when i start my car in the morn it starts straight away with the choke,but after a few mins of idling or driving it seems 2 start 2 cough and strugle like its flooding.A few times it has been reving to 3000 rpm after a couple mins of starting with the choke off,also the car will not tick over properly until the temp gauge has reached 1 third so the choke is on until it has reached this temp. cheers 4 any help wiz coz it is really pissing me off now! dan Answer: I would say your choke was sticking or the throttle linkage is sticking. You may need to repolace the choke cable but if not then try getting the carb cleaned and maybe even rebuilt. |
| ID: 1247 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 19psi 0-60?? Question: wizard i was wondering if i have a hybrid capable of running 180bhp/19psi, and the fuelling and everything else under the bonnet is set up for this power. what should be my 0-60 and am i able to kick saphire cosworth arses or keep up with them. one other question i have just changed my alternator and my battery light always go on and off. my alternator belt is tight and the alternator just fitted is new, have i got a cross wire some where or something. oh yeah thought about buying an escort rs as well but then i came to my senses!! cheers all us members appreciate your wisdom in regards to our 5's. Answer: The 0-60 of any car is down to many factors including driver skill, tyre grip and road surface. I would estimate somewhere in the region of 6-6.5 seconds as a realistic figure. I would say contact the people you got the alternator from as it sounds faulty. Glad you didn't buy an RS or i would have had to put a bad spell on you! |
| ID: 1248 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Missing Question: *Wiz,cheers for helping with my h.gasket but a couple of days before the gasket went it started to run with a miss and its still there.It was the day after removing the crank breather from the turbo inlet but tried replacing it but it still misses.I have no restrictors in the breather system but never have and it ran good before,i have removed the breather into the turbo now because i don't want any oil getting in there,would that have anything to do with it? *I have put new sparkies in,tested the ht leads by swapping from another car,checked dizzy cap and roatar and i've changed the ecu. It just misses on tickover any ideas. *Could you also tell me where the coolant pipes should run from carb to manifold because i think mine is wrong,i've got the one from the waterpump going to the rear port of carb and the front port on carb going to the turbo and the two ports, driver and passenger on back of inlet manifold just attached to each other,thats wrong is it? Thanks Answer: The missing at idle may be down to the type of plug fouling slightly or a poor mixture strength due to extra air getting into the system. Make sure the breather inlet to the turbo is blocked off and that the breather pipe has a filter or is blocked off completely. As for the coolant pipes, one should run from the water pump to the carb, another from the carb to the manifold and then the outlet of the manifold goes to the turbo. |
| ID: 1249 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: metal screech Question: hi, when i turn my car on in a morning, when i pull the choke out to about 2000 revs it makes like a metal hitting metal screeching noise, it doesnt do it at any higher revs, just around 2000 still does it but not as bad when it has warmed up, any ideas? Answer: Could be something like alternator belt, turbo off axis, vibration or many other things. Try to narrow down more where the noise is coming from. |
| ID: 1250 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starting, Stalling , die-ing Question: Dear Wiz, When I start, the starter motor turns over slowly then it slowly fires up, often won't go above 2000rpm without nearly cutting out and then breaks through. It has also been cutting out as I brake sometimes or at idle even when fully warm. I recently changed relay and heater switch and elec fan ist'n cutting in as early on the temp gauge. it is a low tempo switch many thanks jp Answer: I would say you have one of a faulty batch of low temp switches that are in circulation. They are actually higher temp switches. As for the cutting out, i would say to get the idle mixture and speed checked. You may have a blocked idle jet so clean that out first. |
| ID: 1251 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: starter motor Question: I have just started to have a problem regarding starting. It starts fine in the morning when cold no probs, it's just when I have used it for a while and then switch the ignition off, pop out for a few minutes and then come back to it, when I try and start it it dosen't turn over. All the dash lights come on, I can just here a clicking from the starter motor or sometimes no noise at all. After a few turns of the key it starts up. Is this the begin of the end for the starter motor? cheers John Answer: Could be! Check all connections to the starter, and tighten. Do you have a starter motor heat shield fitted? If not then i expect the heat is effecting the starter and it will just need stripping and cleaning/lubricating to be fine again. |
| ID: 1252 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fitting a solenoid for auto boot release Question: Hi wiz Do you know how I can fit boot release mechanism to my 5. I would like to delock the boot (reduce the risk of some fecker nicking my sounds again !!). I have a clifford G4 alarm now so would it be possible to control the boot release using the clifford fob. Hope this question aint too far out from your expertise. Thanks for your help Munish Da MunSta Answer: You need the solenoid to activate the lever. You may have to make up something yourself. Is your car delocked on the front doors? If it is then you will need an emergency way into the car should the battery go dead. You will probably need a special solenoid from clifford or one they approve. |
| ID: 1253 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Locked out for good? Question: Hi Wiz, I just need the final word from the guru before I have to put one of my windows in - 2 get in!! My 5's been parked for some time, the battery is dead, it is de-locked and I need to get in 2 being the resurection!! I know you are going to say the boot - well what if I said the key wont turn?! How do I get in? Ive never had to brake into a car so Im really stuck. Yours sincerely Jamie Answer: You have three choices if you can not get the boot to unlock. 1) Smash the windscreen if you have stone chips or scratches and just pay the glass excess. (Won't effect NCB) 2) Smash a window, Passenger or drivers front is best as loads of people have spare doors. 3) Force the boot lock and replace it with either a new one or one from a scrap 5. |
| ID: 1254 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bonnet struts Question: wiz, do you know of anyone who does bonnet struts for the 5 ,as the normal bonnet stay is useless and crap thanx. Answer: No one does them specifically for the 5 as far as i am aware but you may be able to use some from another car. |
| ID: 1255 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel Question: wiz, iam currently on running unleaded with a fuel catalyst with no probs.But would it be worth while putting octane booster in such as (pro boost) for power gain/remove detonation or would it damage the catalyst ,or would the catalyst cancel out the difference. Also would it be worth while putting super unleaded in with pro boost instead. Your info would be appreciated. Answer: I have no experience with fuel catalysts so i cannot give you a definate answer. I would use normal unleaded for the road (with timing adjustments if required) and octain booster for high boost or track/drag days. |
| ID: 1256 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Adjusting boost Question: Hello! Please could you let me roughly how much psi one turn of the actuator arm equals and a 'safe' increase to carry out on a standard GT turbo (apart from exhaust and dump valve). Many thanks Answer: It will be a bit of trial and error but i think two turns equals one psi. Do not go beyond the first third of the shaded red area. It may be worth strapping and flowing the standard intercooler as this is restrictive. Another thing you could do is to run a pipe from the front bumper to the hot air intake side of the standard airbox for a little more power. I find old hoover pipe is about the right size! |
| ID: 1257 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: head gasket type for what performance Question: Hey , i've been reading on webpages about head gaskets some say 35psi max and another 50 psi max. i dont really want to lose that much compresion and run my five off the turbo power instead of engine power! What does it all mean? thanks!! dae. Answer: The higher boost type have more reinforced fire rings and 'may' be a little thicker. You probably wouldn't notice the difference on a fairly standard car or mild boost application. |
| ID: 1258 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: upping boost at touch of a button Question: i am wondering if you could tell me if possible, where i could get a switching device which would:- let me run at just say a constant 14 psi and at the touch of a button it would rise to the specified set max boost, just say 18. A bit like the nitrous button concept. Any kind of help on this subject would be great. Cheers wizzy. PS. what does the single hose on the actuator do. cheers again mun. Answer: I don't know of any electronic/solenoid based boost systems for the 5 that are sold in kit form but some members have made their own. There may also be something usefull in the blitz range. Single actuator hose (Cup circuit) is for controlling boost level same as standard two port but it doesn't have the second port which is to do with the boost compensation circuit. |
| ID: 1259 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: When do i need a bigger or better actuator?? Question: I have an MD28 TDynamics hybrid with grp a carb, grp a dumpvalve etc, would it help my car if i uprated the actuator? Im unclear as to the difference it would make on this setup. Jamie Answer: The MD28 comes with an uprated (but standard looking) actuator if it is the single port type. You could go for a T3 type rebuildable actuator to make the boost adjustable via different spring strengths. It won't make any difference unless the actuator goes weak and is struggling to hold boost. |
| ID: 1260 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: offset again Question: I have some tsw blades that i want to fit to my five. You told me that the offset needs to be 35mm, the wheels that i have are 30mm. If i fit these with 195/45/15 tyres am i going to get problems with them and if so what will they be, also will i need spacers on the front and will the car handle differently. Thanks for all your help Adam Answer: You may need small spacers on the car but they should be ok. Handling will not be noticably different. |
| ID: 1261 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure above 6 and getting very hot Question: Hi Wiz,' Sorry to bore you again with the same question but there is another problem. Driving back from worcester i notice the oil pressure getting even higher (as high as the needle will go) At the same time the tempreture is going through the roof. I have a new thermostat, rad switch and it has been blead (several times). Is this a blocked oil cooler/rad or is it possable it is a blockage somewhere else? and if so where.. Many thanks Sorry for the long winded question but it is a real worry. Steve Keating Answer: It is possible that there is a kinked pipe or blockage in the oil system and this is causing the increased pressure. (Pressure is the resistance to flow) This in turn would not cool the oil properly so it will transfer its heat into the cooling system causing the temperature to rise. If you can borrow a radiator then do it to rule that out after you have looked for kinked or trapped pipes. As an expensive(ish) option, you could buy a seperate thermostatically controlled oil cooler and R5 diesel rad for the peace of mind of an awesome cooling system. |