| ID: 1112 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fascia Switch Bulbs Question: Hi Wiz Is it easy to change the bulbs in the Fasica Switches, What size bulbs fit into the switches?? Thanks Munish Answer: Just get a new switch from a scrappy its easier! (They fit into your pocket!) |
| ID: 1113 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Passenger side strut Question: Wizard, I'm looking for some of your good advise if its available. If I have may car stood still with the bonnet up, Take the plastic cover over the top of the strut off so you can see the top plate. If I get a friend to turn the steering wheel round backwards and forwards you can see the nut in the strut moving around freely whilst the other side is secure, this is becoming quite annoying now as whenever I turn the car I get a loud knocking noise! Do you have an answer as to what I want replacing. Cheers Wiz. Answer: I expect the strut top plate has an elongated hole. You may be able to get a new one or just weld a plate/washer over the hole to bring it back down to the original size. |
| ID: 1114 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: copper radiator Question: i have discovered a leak from my radiator, i was thinking of fitting a copper cored radiator, iam sure valeo sell them but how do i tell if its a genuine copper cored radiator i assume it will be a copper colour. i also want to say a big thanks for answering previous questions that ive asked you cheers. Answer: Coper cored radiators are the norm and are painted black. An all copper radiator is much more expensive but are also painted black. The best way to tell if it is copper is to scratch off a little of the paint. |
| ID: 1115 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: adj boost Question: i want to fit an incar adj boost kit, but there seem to be differences between different kits i.e. one kit comes with restrictors, another kit has a 3 way boost control knob ,some have a two way one . what would the ideal kit contain such as the type of controller. if it comes with a bleed valve etc.... i havent a clue Answer: The best kit would include a 3 way control knob, a max boost limiter to put into the actuator line and all pipes and clips. The max boost limiter is set up by you to the maximum you require and then the in car boost knob adjusts up from standard to max. This is the same as restrictors but more accurate and more finely adjustable. |
| ID: 1116 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Where can i get some Hose Question: Hi wizard Just a bit confused, found that one of two of my coolant hoses have got holes in them. One from the water pump to the radiator ""top hose"" but the other one is coming from the side of the turbo well near it anyway. Question is what is it called as i can't find it in the haynes manual the top hose cost me about £20 but Renault told me the other will cost me £60 need to make sure that its the right hose. £60 quid seems a bit expensive do you know any places i can get them cheaper around Brum. For that price i may aswell get some Samco Hoses??? Thanx Answer: I would try www.hosedirect.com (i think) |
| ID: 1117 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Pressure/level switch Question: Ey up Wiz, how is thee? The thing is m8 my oil level ind does not work! I have removed the whole unit from the block cleaned it all up tested it at work and get a change in resistance with varius pressure etc swapped with another unit still no good !! I have checked the main connector block next to the horn compresser all ok clean and conductive, I have taken the instrument panel out and I havnt a clue which wires/block are for the oil pressure and the haynes manual is crap ! Could you please tell me where the wires run after the main connector block so I can have another fiddle and get it working You probably get this one a lot but its doing my nut Cheers Kingscott Answer: If the sender is working then the normal fault is the gauge, try removing it (2 screws?) and try a known good one. If this is no good then i will have a think about the wiring and get back to you. |
| ID: 1118 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hoses - correction to Wizard ;-) Question: The website address is actually www.hosedirectltd.co.uk I don't know, bloody turbo wizard Answer: Correction to Steevio..... You had put this into the suspension section! ;-) I have sorted it. |
| ID: 1119 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Knocking noise?????????????????????? Question: Hi Wiz, I have a knock coming from the near side front wheel. It doesnt do it round courners or on hard acceleration. I notice the nock over small bumps in the road. But only on the near side.... Am i being paranoid or is there something wrong? Thanks M8 Keep up the good work.. Answer: Sounds like a bush is worn or the shock absorber is shot. |
| ID: 1120 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Whining turbo Question: Hi wiz, Just recently my turbo has started to have a higher than normal pitched whine to it when i give it a bit of wellie. Any ideas?? If the turbo is on its way out i'd like to put in a hybrid but am un sure of anything else i'd need to replace to take the added boost. Would like an in car boost to keep the PSi down until i get the engine mod to take the added pressure. What do i need Thanx Answer: Sounds like the turbo is on its way out. You can control boost pressure on the new hybrid with the actuator spring or with an in car boost set up. You haven't told me what your car has got already so get back to me for more info on what you need. |
| ID: 1121 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: no spark Question: Hi Wiz Im not getting a spark to any of the spark plugs, what could cause this problem?. I have had a few ignition modules put on which either works for a bit, or doesnt work at all, but I get the same problem again and again. Im not sure if the module keeps blowing or not. Are they any other possibilites that you can think of for me to check? cheers BATMAN Answer: Sounds like the relay near the module is faulty. Try replacing or bridging this relay and your problem should be sorted. |
| ID: 1122 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Door Pods Question: Hello WIZ I am thinking of building new door cards/pods for speakers and to just lose the look of the old ones. Is it better to start from scratch or to use the old ones as a base and work on them ? Also what thickness MDF should be used as the base if I start from scratch ? Answer: I know i am a wizard and i usually keep my answers to turbo questions only, but i will make an exception for you. Use the standard door card for a base or template and use 6mm MDF to start with and 12 or 18mm for the actual pod to prevent vibrations. |
| ID: 1123 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dim lights Question: Hello Wiz, I seem to have some sort of electrical problem on my car. The headlights are not as bright as they used to be, the same with the dash lights and the blower motor speed. Sometimes when driving along the lights will go brighter for a few seconds. I have a brand new battery and alternator which charges at a steady 14volts. I have checked and double checked the connections on the Alternator, the main engine earth and engine harness connector. I think it might be a earth problem. Where are the earth points for the lights etc ? or have you got any other ideas ? Thanks..... Answer: There is an earth point behind the headlights, another behind the dash and a couple on the engine. |
| ID: 1124 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: electric window motors Question: wiz, both my leccy windows r running very slow. Also on occasions when buzzing them up and down the battery light flashes on the dashboard. Is this telling me I need new window motors, or is there somthing else wrong? Answer: Sounds like sticky motors or linkage. Try removing them and cleaning them up. |
| ID: 1125 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: FAULTY SPEEDO Question: Hi wizard, My speedo recently stopped working and I have tried to fix it by replacing the top section of the wiring and fitting a secondhand speedo. It still does not work. I can only assume that the problem lies with the sensor/ lower section of the wiring. Is there any way I can test the circuits before I buy the parts.How does it work and why is there 3 wires. Is there a fuse in this circuit? Thanks Adam. Answer: No fuse, just wires from sensor in gearbox to joint near air filter and then wiring to dash. No way to test that i know of sorry. |
| ID: 1126 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: relay Question: Hi Wiz, Where is the best place to go for a relay?, is it a scrappy job or will any motor factors sell them?, do I need to get one specifically for the 5 Turbo and how much do you reckon I shud pay for one? Cheers Wiz BATMAN Answer: Get them from a scrappy if you can as reno is expensive and i am not sure about other types of relay but they may work. Pay about £1-2 |
| ID: 1127 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Heads Question: Is there any difference between the phase 1 & phase 2 cylnder heads? Cheers, Pete. Answer: Not that i know of! |
| ID: 1128 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Will it fit? Question: Will a phase 1 Scorpion exhaust fit a phase 2 ? Cheers, Pete. Answer: Yes |
| ID: 1129 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Are they the same? Question: Are there any differences between the phase 1 and phase 2 carbs? Cheers, Pete. Answer: No |
| ID: 1130 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo whining Question: Hi wiz, My car is currently running with a dump valve and bleed valve only i'm putting in a uprated clutch which will take 200BHP but thats it. What else would need uprating to cope with a hybrid turbo with say 14 PSI. Thanx Answer: Strapping (and flowing) the standard intercooler would be a good idea and maybe a bigger jet, best set up on rolling road to find what size is needed. |
| ID: 1131 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Replacing Front Sub Frame Question: I've got a R5 Turbo with a large crease in the drivers side front subframe section and wonder what is the easiest way to replace it. I've got the decent Haynes Workshop manual and from that I gather that you have to take the engine out as it's mounted onto the subframe. Is there an easier way of doing this or am I stuck with dropping the engine out with the subframe and then mounting it to a new subframe and lifting it all back in? Many thanks Jon Answer: Dropping the lot is the easiest way i'm afraid. |
| ID: 1132 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Will it fit? Question: I took the whole suspension strut out of a phase 2 turbo, will it fit straight into a phase 1 shell? In other words, a straight swap? Thanks. Answer: It will fit but top mounts are different so you had best fit the pair or the car will be all over the place on the handling. |
| ID: 1133 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Alloy/Carbon Pedals Question: Hi wiz Gotta real silly q for ya, nothing technical. I have some Sparco Carbon Pedals fitted and when I go to hit the brakes my foot sometimes scrubs against the accelerator. I fitted them with the pedals still in the car, should I have removed them?? Also their aint much area to position the pedals and drilling near the edge of the pedal is a bit of a fecker. Can I just Hard as Nails the mothers to the pedals as this would allow me to stick em a bit further apart. Do you know of any slimmmer alloy pedals on the market?? Thanks Munish Answer: These pedals are normally fitted in situ and No you cannot use Hard as nails! Try Demon Tweeks for a selection of pedals. |
| ID: 1134 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cental locking Question: Dear Mr wizard My problem is that my central locking is not working, i have a spare car and have changed over the motors in the doors that lock and unlock. (I do know that in the old car the central locking was working) I was wondering if the system has a control unit in between these motors, if there is where will i find it because there is no help in the haynes bible. Please help as i can not find any information to help. Thanks Adam Answer: The central locking is controlled from the roof consol and this circuit board is known to go wrong. Try swopping the board from the old car to the new and see if it works then. |
| ID: 1135 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smokin Question: Hi Wiz, I have an 87, D plate, Phase 1, which i have owned for about five and a half years. For the last two and a half years the car has been sitting in the garage un-used. The car gets started every three months or so, starting first time, but churns out lots of black smoke. Before taking the car off the road the turbo was begining to whine on full boost. The car has a side exit exhaust, dump valve and K&N filter but has no increase in boost pressure. The smoke leaves a powdery residue on the garage wall. Has this got anything to do with it standing for so long, or is there another explanation? Any help would be gratefully accepted. Thanks Answer: The black residue is carbon from unburnt fuel or oil etc due to you starting the car but not driving it to get the temperature up to the point where this carbon is burnt off. It could be due to the turbo seals leaking oil or just starting on choke too much. |
| ID: 1136 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: FLAT BATTERY Question: HI WIZ, I PUT A NEW BATTERY ON ABOUT 5 WEEKS AGO BUT HAVENT STARTED THE CAR SINCE ITS BEEN PUT ON COS ITS NOT RUNNING YET, BUT THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE BATTERY DRAINS TILL ITS PRACTICALLY DEAD. SURELY IT SHOULDNT DRAIN LIKE THAT, I HAD THIS PROBLEM BEFORE THATS WHY I PUT ANOTHER BATTERY ON. WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THIS? THANX IN ADVANCE BATMAN Answer: It could be due to the alternator draining the power back through the system or it could be down to an alarm, immobiliser or just the clock! |
| ID: 1137 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine build Question: I was wondering if you could help! I want to build an engine for my 5gtt, and would like to know if there are any books available that could help! Answer: The Haynes manual is about it i'm afraid. |
| ID: 1138 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dump valve not working Question: Hi Wiz my dump valve sounds like a rattle snakes tail when i let off, could this be the diaphram in it or is it somthing else please help as it is doin my head in cheersWIZ Answer: Sounds very much like a split diaphram. |
| ID: 1139 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: too much boost Question: had std turbo with amel valve fitted running 9 low + 15 high.had md 14 fitted dead same got car back took it up road put foot down and the boost came in twice as much as normal,the high + low switch does not make any difference its like theres not limit to boost pressure.the only thing i can see different with the pipe work is a pipe that comes from bottom of carb its connected to carb but other end is just hanging down.is it a breather for carb or has it something to do with boost.ive allready blow head gaskit and had turbo rebuilt again so dont want to use car till its sorted.what boost can md14 take, hope you can help,thanks pete Answer: Sounds to me like the new turbo may have an uprated actuator spring. or If the pipe that is hanging comes from a triangular piece of the carb that sticks out then it shouldn't be connected to anything as it is a breather/overflow. If it comes from the bottom of the carb near the manifold then it should be connected to the boost pressure circuit and if the piece it connects to is open to fresh air then you will get no control over boost pressure and the turbo will overspin and may blow. An MD 14 is good for about 18psi i believe. |
| ID: 1140 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: holding back Question: When driving normally (without turbo) the car drives well, the problem comes when the turbo spins up. When using full throttle the turbo comes in but the car goes no where, it will hesitate badly and may even give a little back fire if you don't lift off. When using 1/4 throttle the car does not hesitate as much but is not as when i bought it. I have followed advice you have given others and changed the carb, i have used a standard carb and a group A carb to see if it needed more fuel (i am running 1 bar boost). I have taken it to a rolling road and he does not know, he said he still thinks it is a fuel problem but could not say any more. I can't understand this as it was not doing this when i bought is two months ago and has only started since i fitted a new dump valve and a performance air filter. Please help me i am getting rather desperate, it has been doing this for a month now. Thanks Adam Answer: It may be that there is a problem with the pipe to the dump valve which is affecting advance/retard of the ignition. Or it may be down to the air filter making the mixture too weak but i doubt it. |
| ID: 1141 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stalling after 19psi boost Question: hello mr wizard. i usually run a max of 16psi and i shouldent run 19psi on a standard head gasket or turbo for that matter,but when i do my car usually stalls. what do you think may be causing this? p.s just incase you need to know im using a group a carb and a double capicity intercooler, with a very efficient cooling sytem amoungst the usual mods. any advice would be greatfully appreciated Answer: A standard head gasket can be used with pressures up to 20+ psi on some cars and standard turbos will do 20 psi as well (but not for long!) I don't understand what you mean by stalling, does the car actually stop running or just hesitate? Please give me as much detail as possible to assist in helping you more. |