| ID: 1052 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: adj boost Question: i plan to fit in car adj boost kit. most kits only seem to give you a 135 main jet is this enough as i plan to run 16psi max. iam i right in thinking that you need an air corrector jet as well? Answer: Most kits don't give you a jet at all! A 130 or 135 will be fine for 16psi but you may need a 90 or 100 air corrector too. |
| ID: 1053 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: emission settings Question: i also plan to get my car rolling road tuned.can you give me any advice as to what if any the emission readings should be changed to? for better performance. Answer: Keep the idle CO reading to about 2-2.5% and max power should be around 10% i think. Any decent operator will be able to set the car up properly anyway. |
| ID: 1054 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Anti roll bars Question: Hello wiz, Can you tell me if there are any bigger roll bars that would fit the turbo, off another model like the diesel?? I am having trouble with my handling. I have new JR shocks and lowering springs, the back has been lowered 30mm and I am on standard rims. The car still seems to roll alot and is very twitchy on the front. Would bigger roll bars make a difference and can you recommend any? Cheers, Dan. Answer: Anti roll bars are not a common item to be changed on the 5 but i believe the other models in the range have a thicker bar than the GT as it has stiffer springs than the standard models. 15"" wheels with 195/45/15 tyres will give much better and precise handling than the standard rims due to the shorter side walls and greater footprint on the road. I would say to check out the suspension componants and steering ball joints etc as well as getting the wheel alignment done as soon as possible to rule out any other problems. |
| ID: 1055 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil Problem Question: Hi i took my 5 for its MOT after giving it a full service, Oil etc, they refused to MOT it because the oil warning light is on but when u check on the dip stick it reads that the oil level is fine, would this just be the oil sender is broken, if so where abouts is it in the engine, which one is it basically, and am i fine driving the car, by this i mean if the dip stick reads the oil level then surely this lamp is false. Answer: The light is for oil pressure not oil level. If this light is on then it normally means you have very low of no oil pressure which means your engine is not getting any oil circulated around it and could seize up. It could be a dodgy sender but these usually fail off rather than on. The sender is located on the front of the engine by the radiator fan motor. It is a round unit with two wires coming off of it. Get it checked as soon as possible before driving the car again. |
| ID: 1056 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Question: Hello wiz man, how are you ? The problem is that I can't keep my boost pressure down ? I have just fitted a new gt tuning lobster inlet elbow, all the wastegate pipes are correctly fitted (no leeks) and the one way valve going the right way! I had an overboost problem before the new elbow was fitted, as I had lost (doh) the small restrictor that is in one of the elbow outlet pipes!. I have adjusted the wastegate arm to lower the boost which is does ok, but after a day or two the boost is back up and rising ?? Watching the standard gauge the boost goes up, peaks, then drops off slightly which i have never noticed before!. I have a alloy billet actuator could it be this going ""up the duff""? Oh Ek Thanx Kingscott :) Answer: I am fine thanks Kingscott, It could be a dodgy actuator which will show the peaking and dropping off of boost or a split/leaking pipe that you cannot see. I would also recommend fitting a max boost limiter or restrictor to the circuit. |
| ID: 1057 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo Problem Question: Please help Wiz, I was driving home from work tonite, I admit I was giving the car some welly, and I was in third gear when all of a sudden it seemed as if it was going to stall, an audiable ""pop"" was heard, and there was/is absolutely no reading on the Turbo gauge on the dash. It just sits at the bottom. Please can you confirm my worst fear that the Turbo has indeed gone? It has been running a-OK, no blue smoke etc and it's just been given a proper service in time for winter. Thanks & Merry Xmas!!!!!! Tud. Answer: The first thing i would check would be boost pipes as one of these may have split or just come off. If it was a standard intercooler then it may have popped the top off and is therefore leaking all that precious boost to fresh air. Take the intercooler off and fill it with water to check for leaks if the pipes look ok. Merry Xmas to you too! |
| ID: 1058 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Speedo trouble Question: Hi wiz, Got a small problem with my speedo. All the guages work except for the speedo. Have changed the unit but the same problem still there. Please help Answer: It is probably the sender in the gearbox knackered or the wiring between it and the dash. Try looking at the connection in the grey wire near the airbox, it will be a large black cylindrical connector and may have come loose or got wet. |
| ID: 1059 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Starting probs Question: Hi wizard, I have a G reg turbo. Whenever I try and start it warm or cold it seems to not want to until I try a number of times. When it is cold and on full choke it begins to fire then there is a grinding noise as the engine fails to start. When warm it just turns over and over and over and eventually starts. What do you think is the problem ? Is it fuelling ? Any help is appreciated. Answer: A grinding noise when trying to start would point me towards a dodgy starter motor, but the turning over for ages would point me to ignition or fuelling. Try checking the spark at the plugs. It should be a sharp blue spark, not yellow as this is weak. For fuelling try removing the carb top elbow and see if fuel is getting dragged into the engine. |
| ID: 1060 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: max boost! Question: Wiz me ol' christmas Merlin, hope you are ok!!?? Can you please tell me the best place to put a max boost adjuster, for use with an in car adjuster??? Would a normal bleed valve be ok piped to the end of the centre outlet from the in car adjuster???? Thanx alot......................... Answer: Just put the max boost limiter in where you would put a normal under bonnet bleed valve, ie the front actuator pipe. I have never tried using a bleed valve as a limiter but it should work in theory. Only thing is, if someone messes with it without you seeing then you could get overboosting and blowup. For the price of a proper adjuster (£25ish) then i would just fit one of them. |
| ID: 1061 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil in turbo, intercooler airfilter etc. but turbo ok Question: Hi, I have a new engine and turbo, bout 15000 km. 10 minutes after cold start, not using turbo off course, engine oil was comming out of airfilter, going into intercooler etc from the turbo. but no leakage on oil return hose or other couplings whatsoever. I immediatly thought off the turbo seal or bearing, so i disassemled the turbo and had it checked by the factory, it turned out to be not broken at all! They suggested that a piston was broken or the oil return pipe from turbo was glogged, but since both engine and oil return pipe are new and the fact that the engine sounded fine before i shut it down, i'm out of possible reasons for this problem. Have you got an idea what it might be? Answer: You might have excess crankcase pressure due to a blocked breather somewhere that is forcing oil past the rings or out into the breather system from the sump. This oil is then going through the turbo and messing up the pipework etc. Try removing the breather pipes and cleaning them all out as well as the oil separator to see if this cures the problem. |
| ID: 1062 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: still not working Question: Hi Wiz, Im still having problems with the car not starting sometimes, and sometimes it does, but it still conks out when I put my foot down. I tested the fuel pump like you told me but its fine. I have been told about some sort of a circuit inside the passenger wing which could be my problem, do you know anything about this and how I can get at it to either check or re-new?. Any info on it would be very appreciated. So far I have put on a new king lead,new spark plugs,new distributor cap,other ignition modules,and checked fuelling. Cant be much else left to try :) cheers, BATMAN Answer: The only wiring worth looking at is the relay and wires to the ignition module (near the heater fan, under the bulkhead plastic trim) or the main engine wiring connector which is on the passenger side of the car under the coolant header tank. Remove and clean all connections before refitting. |
| ID: 1063 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pistons and Liners Question: Hello again, right i think piston three has given up the ghost, i've changed the dizzy cap, spark plug, and leads and the same always happens when i take off the lead with the engine running, the revs don't drop!!!!!! so i can only assume it's the piston or liner due to the fact i have now got piston slap. So what i need to know is can i just change one piston and liner?? also i can get my hands on a second hand set but how do i know if they're any good?? One last thing, will i need new bearings?? cos this other set haven't got any on them. Damn reno's Cheers Stu Answer: Hello Stu, My you keep me busy! Yes you can buy a single piston and liner but it will need to be fitted to your existing con rod by a proper shop to enable you to use the old bearings. For the extra cost, i would recommend a whole new set unless yours are fairly new. |
| ID: 1064 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: running crap Question: Basically wiz a have just come back from k-tec racing after having a tune but it now runs like crap, it accelerates better with part throttle open, because as soon as you put your foot down it dies off!! could this be a block fuel filter also could you uprate the fuel pressure by putting another standard fuel pump in the circuit but closer to the engine Answer: Firstly I would recommend phoning David at K-Tec, he is a good bloke and will probably have the car back in for a free look. Has the car been modified whilst there or just the mixture etc adjusted? It could be a filter blockage so change it if it is not fairly new. The fuel pressure is controlled by the pressure regulator near the brake servo so fitting another pump will only help if the old one is not up to the job. |
| ID: 1065 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: left wheel Question: I had what i thought was a drive shaft problem so got a new one! When i turned to the left a small vibration came throgh the clutch pedal and there was a strong wherrring sound coming from the wheel. but the drive shaft made no difference!! Also when i reverse the wheel clonks when on full lock to the right and today it seemed to drag the wheel the it would turn then it would drag again (on gravel) it also wheels spins all the time but only on the right side and doesn't seem to go anywhere at high revs but that could be the fuel question??? HELP WIZ cos my renault is slowly dying Answer: I think you may have a dodgy gearbox mount or an internal gearbox problem. Check the mounts first as the one at the front near the intercooler is a common one to fail or split in two. If this is the case then i would recommend renewing the lot as they will have been overstressed by the damaged one. If it is a gearbox fault then try a second hand unit from another member as there are loads of spares out there. |
| ID: 1066 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Which one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Question: Hi, I know that you have probably answered this question a million times but I am going to upgrade the standard peashooter in January and want to make sure I get it right first time. Obviously I want a SS system with no front box to gain the most power. The car is fully standard apart from a replacement Pipercross filter. I want the car to sound deep and louder than standard but not illegally loud. The pipe has to be 2.25 as any bigger will rattle and would be of no use as I have a standard Turbo at standard pressure. I also want to make sure that the exhaust fits properly so that it does not rattle or bang anywhere. I heard Devil make good systems but I am not sure the sound is quite loud enough. I am looking at Magnex and Scorpion as they seem to make good systems and you get the choice of pipes. What are the BB Performance or GTTuning ones like compared to the other brands? Does changing the Turbo pipe help the power and does that affect the sound? What changes the sound of different exhausts? I hope you will be able to help me as this purchase has been long awaited and I will only be happy when the car sounds as it should. If you watch the video of âFredGTT Ã Folembrayâ on the following web site http://www.gt-turbo.fr.st/ and click on the video section. It is the first one. PS He should learn to deal with his corners a bit better. You can hear his car at the end when he pulls into the paddock. Do you know how I could get that sound? Thanks in advance, Answer: All the brands you have mentioned make good quality exhausts that will help power due to less back pressure. The turbo cross pipe needs to be 2.25 as well for best gains. It is the material used, amount of material and size of silencer that makes most difference to sound. Why not try a side exit exhaust as they seem to make the best noises. K-Tec do a full stainless system for about £200 that looks like a bargain. |
| ID: 1067 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 14"" Wheels, what tyre size Question: I have 14"" wheels that came on my 5 when i bought it, What tyre size would you recommend? The wheels have 185/60/14 tyres at the moment. Are these ok or will they affect handiling? And what about the speedo will it need recalibiration???? Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year Answer: The tyres should be ok and the calibration will be too close to worry about. I would really recommend selling them and buying 15's with 195/45/15 tyres for extra looks and handling. p.s Xmas is only a short way off but you could still try for them as a present! |
| ID: 1068 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil prob again Question: When i fitted my new turbo, and tested to make sure the oil was flowing and it squirted out the oil feed quite quick, would this not mean that i have a good oil pressure. Answer: Sure would! That feed pipe can project oil right across a garage quite easily if you rev the engine above tickover. (not recommended as there will be no oil to the turbo which will be spinning at those revs!) |
| ID: 1069 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil prob Question: Also if theres no oil pressure, how would this problem be fixed. Answer: A new pressure regulator or pump! |
| ID: 1070 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: PISTON LINERS Question: HELLO Mr Wizard, I'm planing to change my piston rings but i dont want to disturb the liners! Whats the way to get best results, my car has not done that many miles so i only want to change the rings. thanks alot for your advice dae Answer: You will have to take off the head and sump to gain access to the pistons, I would recommend removing the piston/conrod/liner in one and renewing the liner seals as they only cost a few pounds and will prevent the chance of leaks on rebuild. Renew the rings and then rebuild carefully and cleanly. Run the rings in gently for about 500 miles and then your sorted! |
| ID: 1071 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fitting 15 Question: Greetings Mr Wizard, This is the first time I have used your most vast knowledge since joining the club and I hope you can help me.When I bought the GTT 2 years ago it was fitted with 15's and 195/50 tyres but these were rubbing very badly on the inner arches so I changed them.I went for 195/45's and I was told that there will be no scrubbing at all,I found this not to be true on my car as the drivers side wheel was still rubbing on the bottom lip of the inner arch.I started using different sizes of spacers starting with 3mm to 5mm then I had to go for 6mm which finally stopped all scrubbing.The only problem with using spacers is that the threads within the disc hub tend to get damaged or stripped because its very difficult to line up the spacer and the tyre while bolting it on so they get damaged especially when its at a garage.So I wanted to ask you what I should do,should I stick with 6mm spacers all round or should as a lot of people suggest slightly bend the bottom lip of the inner arch back to stop scrubbing.I dont really want to take a hammer to the car and bend it because who knows what damage could be done,I find it strange though that the common thought is that 15's with 194/45's will go straight on with no problems which clearly isnt the case for me anyway. Thanks Answer: It is my pleasure to help you Brenster. I expect that your wheels are not the correct offset. They should be around 35mm offset. If you want to continue using the same wheels you have two choices. 1) Use a hot air gun to warm the paint (prevents cracking) and gently tap the inner arch with a soft headed hammer until you have enough clearance. or 2) Pay someone else to do the job properly. Large tyre fitters or alloy wheel specialists, like Elite, should have an arch rolling machine to do the job without risk of damage. |
| ID: 1072 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Flames Question: I know some people have probably asked you this before, but how do i go about getting flames out of the exhaust. I know it is a good idea to get a rev limiter but what one and how much. is it guaranteed to work. My 5 is standard except usual filter, scorpion, dv. I was thinking of buying a side exit as well. Are they better than my 4"" scorpion. what do i do about the existing hole in the rear valance. sorry about all the questions. stuart Answer: You will need a rev limiter similar to the armtech one which is available from people like BB Tuning or Demon Tweeks. Most people will only get flames if there car is overfuelling, running a big cam overlap or running very high boost. Other people have been known to use a spark plug near the exit of the exhaust to ignite the unburnt fuel but i have never tried it myself. A side exit can help as there is less distance for the flames to travel before entering the air but it is not an essential item. The hole in the rear valence can be filled with a blanking plate (only looks good from a distance) or you can remodel the bumper to remove the hole altogether and get it resprayed. |
| ID: 1073 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: short shift Question: I have the monaco 1.7 and was wondering if a short shift gear stick would fit my car, the gear box is the same as the turbo cos i have just had a racing GTT clutch fitted. Do u recommend the shift device or is it not worth the hassle, some of my mates have simply cut the gear stick down. Also my engine has reached the magic 100,000 mark and seems a little noisy top end, could this be the bucket shims worn?, or the cam on the way out?I was thinking of fitting a high lift cam but I have had bad reports... what do u think wizard?!?! CHEERS.. and merry christmas. Answer: Cutting down the gear stick will give a shorter throw to the gearchange but will make it slightly harder to move. I have never used a quickshift kit for the 5 as they are few and far between and usually expensive. I would say get a compression check to see the condition of the piston rings etc and then check the valve clearances as they are probably too large. The cam is not known to wear that much. High lift cams can change your power delivery for good or bad depending on the rest of your engines spec. Speak to the tuners who supply the cam to see what spec suits you. |
| ID: 1074 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 16v clio alloys Question: hi wizz is it ok to fit clio/19 16v alloys with 195/45 tyres will I need some spacers to do the job right I know the 5's offset is 36mm and the clio/19 is 42mm will 6mm cause any bother..also will speedo reading be affected cheers.and a merry xmas to you wizard... Answer: You should be able to fit then without spacers but it may affect handling slightly. Spacers are not the best way of doing it but should be fine. Speedo reading will be ok with 45's. Merry Xmas to you too! |
| ID: 1075 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: clear rear light clusters Question: dear mr. wizard, i am currently thinking of a massive modifing project with my 91 J plate 5 gt as far as the rear goes i want to smooth the tailgate modify, cut and mesh the bumper and de badged but i want somthing different sorting to the rear light clusters. i was thinking of a clear set or even lexus stylee jobies. Do you know of a company that produces such items? jez. market drayton Answer: Try www.sk-tuning.de it is in German but the clusters are there. £280 and not mot legal as fog light is on the other side to uk spec. |
| ID: 1076 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Raider Colour Question: Hi wiz, I need to know the colour code for my raider.. Cos some arse has opened a door onto mine and taken a chunk out just above my petrol filler cap...oh and would you suggest i knock the dent out or do i fill it, either way it needs a spray..please can you help. many thanks KUTGW Merry XMAS Steve Answer: Look at the oval plate on the bulkhead near the drivers side suspension turret for the paint code. I would recommend getting it done properly as if you fill it, the flimsy panel will vibrate and crack the filler and if you knock it out you will probably just stretch the metal and be wavey afterwards. |
| ID: 1077 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Petrol smell Question: WHEN I ACCELERATE I CAN SMELL PETROL COMING INTO THE CAR. i HAVE CHECKED ALL THE PIPE AND THE HOSES ARE ALL SEALED AND THIER IS NO VISIBLE SIGN OF FUEL ANY WHERE. ON THE CARB LOOKING AT IT FROM THE FRONT THIER IS A HOSE CONNECTION ON THE SIDE FACING TOWARDS THE PASSENGERS WING DOES THIS PIPE CONNECT ANYWHERE OR IS IT JUST AN AIR VENT. CHEERS SOAPY. Answer: That pipe is a breather/overflow pipe for the carb. If there is fuel coming out of this pipe then there is a split in the diaphram so it will need rebuilding with a kit. |
| ID: 1078 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gasket surface Question: first of all merry christmas. when i took the head off my car to be cleaned up, as the damp got to the engine block itself, a rusty film developed on the surface where the gasket sits between the head and block. is it going to matter when i reassemble the engine. if so what can i do to help the matter. thanks. Answer: Just lightly clean the surface with fine sandpaper or a wet stone before rebuilding. |
| ID: 1079 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Gauge Reading Question: I am running 21psi (maximum) boost read from a retro-fit gauge tapped directly off the carb elbow. My boost gauge on the speedo is still plumbed in and at max boost the arrow goes completely off the top of the gauge. I have changed the dials and had to remove the needles and was wondering what the top of the boost gauge equates to in psi, plumbed from this point. I get a bit anxious that my dial gauge is reading the correct psi. Please put my mind at rest Mr. Wizard. By the way, do you still wish it could be Christmas every day or am I getting you mixed up with someone else? Answer: The approximate reading for the end of the standard gauge is about 18-20 psi. Sounds about right what you are doing. No that wasn't me in the song, i wish it was as the royalties must be awesome!! |
| ID: 1080 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: whats up with me heater Question: this may get a bit confusing, i have a problem with my heater,i get a luke warm temp when im driving at a sensible speed,but as soon as i give it some it goes cold even with the blower on full,the vents that are in the middle of the dash blow cold air full stop no heat at all,ive checked the carpets ect and i have no puddles, and my header tank is not loseing any liquid ive topped it all up with anti freeze, ive bleed the system and still get no heat any ideas,thanx G Answer: I would say that you have either got an air lock in the system or your heater matrix is blocked. Try re bleeding the cooling system under pressure by blowing into the header tank and then opening the screws. The centre vents are fresh air vents anyway. |
| ID: 1081 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: driveshaft Question: Does a knackered driveshaft effect acceleration????? Rich Cheers oh wise one Answer: Only if it is soooo bad that it is slipping round in the joint and if this is the case then you probably wouldn't move anyway! |