| ID: 1022 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: free flow Question: I am thinking of modding my intercooler by freeflowing it, i read about it on another gt turbo site and was wanting to know your thoughts on doing this. Also by turning up the boost to 14psi what sort of life would i get from a standard turbo. Answer: Flowing is a good idea if you cannot afford an alloy intercooler. 14psi will not really effect the life of your turbo as long as you use decent oil, changed regularly, and allow the turbo to cool down before switching off the engine. |
| ID: 1023 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No more boost Question: Hi wiz, i have just had another (fairly new) standard turbo fitted. It is running at standard boost. I took the bleed valve off when the turbo was fitted and put the orig pipe on so that i wasn't tempted to crank it right up. The car goes fine until on the motorway in 5th at about 80-90 and above the boost wont go any further than 3/4 or a bit less on the gauge. is this right or is there a problem somewhere. THis makes high speed acceleration a bit shit. I haven't had the car for long so i don't really know how they drive at higher speeds. I have no mods really, only a scorpion system, piper x, bailey dv, copper rad i don't think these should effect it. cheers stu Answer: A standard turbo boosts to about the B or O in the word turbo on the standard gauge. Any higher and the actuator will have been adjusted. 5's are not great on the motorway as the turbo is already on full boost at about 60-70mph so it is like a normal 1.4 after that. Bigger power cars with more boost etc are better on the acceleration side of things but are still not really happy on motorways. |
| ID: 1024 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: gear knob Question: hi wizz i was wondering how you remove and replace the standard gear knob Answer: You can remove the standard knob by brute force if you are lucky but most people cut it off to fit a replacement type knob. If you take it off in one piece then you are lucky, if not then just buy a nice new knob, it makes the interior brighter! :-) |
| ID: 1025 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ""Shriek"" Question: Hi Wizz, I have had my car since 66,000 mls, it has now got 72,000 mls. It was standard up to 66 then I put a full stainless Magnex, green air filter and dump valve, it was serviced at 70,500 mls on mobil 1 0W-40 oil. When accelarating at 1,600 revs and 2,500 revs the car gives off an embarassing shriek, could you please shed any light on the subject as someone scared me by saying that the turbo is knacked. Thanx in advance Answer: Sounds like the turbo to me too i'm afraid! The fact you are using the very thin Mobil 1 will probably not help the turbo. Try using a thicker oil (15w-50?) like mobil 1 motorsport as this is more suited to older engines like the 5, if this doesn't stop the noise then i will suggest a new turbo. |
| ID: 1026 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: right wheel size Question: Hello. I have had my turbo for about 6 months now and am finally starting to understand it...(I think) A few things bother me about the car. I find it frustrating to have that power in 1st gear but not be able to use it as the front wheels spin. The car is completely standard and that is pretty much how i want to keep it except for a few power and handling mods. To keep the Renault Image I was wondering about putting some Clio 16v Phase II. I will also be looking to drop the car 35mm. Will these wheels help the grip and handling or will they effect the acceleration. Can you let me know what size wheels and tyres are best. Many thanks Phil Answer: A well discussed subject and really down to personal choice but i would suggest the wheels (15"") are used with 195/45/15 tyres to give a decent compromise between traction, handling and looks. They should go straight on with no arch mods and allow the car to be lowered a bit if you so wish. |
| ID: 1027 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cheers Question: Thanks for answering my qustion so quick. At least that is something that i don't have to get fixed. That makes a change. Thanks stu Answer: My pleasure! |
| ID: 1028 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: THE BIG 200! Question: wiz, Im hopefully gonna go for the big 200bhp as soon as my funds have replenished, now i know the usuall is to have,hybrid,uprated fuel pump and correct fuelling etc, but i want to mainly concentrate on the head first. What i need to know is what exactly is the best sequence to modify the head ie gas flowing etc, and should i get new valve stems etc while im at it?? Also is having a new cam really worth the hassle?? What sort of gains will i expect from various stages of head/cam modifications??? And finally, if the pistons look ok, can they take 200bhp safely?? Personnaly i think low compression pistons are a waste of money so is there an alternative to the standard items?? many questions, but thanks for your time!!! Answer: To start with, the standard pistons have been used in cars up to 300ish bhp as long as there is no detonation they will be fine. Head and cam specs are down to personal choice as to how drivable you want the car and things like valve stem life. If your car is a daily driver to work etc then you don't want a cam with no power below 2000rpm now do you? Your best bet is to buy a head and cam package from a tuner after you have had a good chat to as many of them as possible. One of them is bound to do exactly what you want. I would go for new valve stem seals and new valve guides if needed while you have the head off. |
| ID: 1029 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: HELP!HELP!....running problems? Question: Wizard' can you please help? I have an intermittent problem with the running of my car. Problem is car is either running very badly under acceleration and then cuts out on idle. This problem comes and goes, because I am sometimes able to drive it, then under boost it suddenly goes. I have checked all the ignition system including leads and plugs and also the hoses. ANY IDEAS please!?? Answer: I would say you have some kind of blockage occuring in the carb that the boost clears. Have you run your car low on fuel lately? Is the fuel filter newish? Try these things and get back to me if you need to. |
| ID: 1030 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: oil pressure gauge Question: Hi Wiz I was driving the other day when i got the oil light come on and the pressure dropped to zero so stopping fair quick i had a look to find no external leaks it has just had a new head gasket. I left it for 10 mins when i restarted it the gauge only went to 2 (normally sits at 5) after a mile the light came on again and so on. Its had a new pressure switch but it has made no difference. Its got pressure cos the light goes out when the engine starts then after 2 miles the pressure will drop and the light will come on i think its electrical but i dont know whats wrong Answer: I would say try fitting new connectors to the sender wires and see how that goes. If it doesn't help, try fitting the dash from a friends car to see if it is the gauge. Is the oil fairly new? It could possibly be breaking down under the heat but it is unlikely. |
| ID: 1031 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fuel pump Question: any idea what current the std pump draws ??? Cheers Wiz Answer: Nope! You could get an ammeter inline to test the drain or buy a multimeter (Argos used to do a good one for £20) If this doesn't work, try fitting a small fuse say 3 amp then get bigger till it stops blowing and this will give you a rough idea. |
| ID: 1032 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: adjustable boost not working!! Question: i just replaced all the little pipes around the carb area including the adjustable boost line which is from gt tuning,but now the adjustable boost isnt working. There is boost there but only standard and when i turn the in car knob it does nothing and it was working before i changed them. Any idea`s wiz?? cheers dan Answer: Did you swop the restrictor over from the old actuator pipe to the new one? This will effect the boost level. |
| ID: 1033 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Water Leaking Question: Hi ive got a problem with water leaking from around my Water pump, i first thought it was from a pipe which i have replaced well ive made one thats similar as mines a Phase 1 and ive only got spare Phase 2 water pipes its on that goes from the bottom of the Header tank to the pump then a built in t piece takes it off to the bottom of the carb sort of area, so i purchased a T piece cut the split parts off took out the built in T piece and that leak was stopped now it seems to be comin from the actual underneath of the pump, if so how do i seal it, i think the bottom hose from the rad may need changing as well but this isnt a problem. I just wanted some pointers on weather i need a gasket or can use some sealing paste and basically what to look out for, what things are prone to leak etc. Cheers m8 Answer: If the water is coming from the base of the pump then i expect it is the internal seal that has gone and you will need a new pump i'm afraid. |
| ID: 1034 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fan Switch Question: my Stat or Fan switch as its better known in the rad doesnt work how would u test it, ive blown out with a hair drier and put it in boiling water but when i put a meter across the teminals there is no continuity so in my books this means its not switching, am i correct in these assumptions, its a low temp one so what temp should it come in at. Also the wires from the fan switch i had a problem one wasnt connected to anything and the other was it was connected to twelve volts, and i ve connected the other to the coil on the relay so when the switch closes, the circuit is made and the relay changes over, thing is the second wire the one thats not always live goes off into the car somewhere am i also right in sayin this would go to a fuse in the box, so what i did was just put a fuse in line near the relay saves wire. Cheers m8, thing is if ya short the wires out the fan comes on, therefore it must be the Fan switch just its new how would u also test it. Answer: If you touch the fan switch wires together and the fan works then the switch must be knackered even if it is new. I have known this to happen before. As for the wiring, one wire goes straight to the alternator 12v positive and the other goes to the relay mounted on the plastic shield near the radiator. I have a feeling it is also linked to the perc fan wiring somewhere along the way. |
| ID: 1035 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pump Question: Sorry for bothering u again, is there actually a gasket betwen the Block and the water pump m8. Also can i plum up my Phase 1 cooling system the same as the Phase 2 if i get the pipes and the other degassing chamber or what ever it its. Answer: There should be a gasket yes. You can plumb in as per the phase two if you use all the correct bits. |
| ID: 1036 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ""Pipework!"" Question: Dear Wizard, Having recently having a friend to change my engine after overheating and cracking a cylinder liner, I find that we have a problem as to the old plumbing! On the passenger side of the carb is a bit that sticks out (very Technical!) beneath this is a small brass outlet that points down and forward, to this attaches a vacuum pipe that goes to where? Also I am a bit lost with the engine breather system, any chance of a photo or diagram of the beast? Many thanks Phil Answer: The pipe from the ""bit that sticks out"" is an breather/overflow pipe and should be routed to the front of the engine away from the hot exhaust etc. venting to fresh air. If fuel comes out of this pipe then the carb has a split diaphram and needs a rebuild, if nothing comes out then all is well. Sorry, i cannot do photo's or diagrams on this page, but i will help as much as i can. Get back to me with what bits and pieces you haven't found a home for and i will sort it out from there. |
| ID: 1037 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: adjustable boost not working!! Question: i put the restrictor back in the pipe when i changed the pipes and it made no difference. ive put a larger pipe on the adjustable boost line, would this make any difference? thanx wiz Answer: A larger diameter pipe will give a lower pressure reading and may well effect the available boost. Try fitting the correct size pipe and see if thats better. |
| ID: 1038 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fluctuating boost. Question: Hi Wiz, The 5 is running great but I've just started to get some wild boost fluctuations! With the in car boost turned down there is no problem. It also seems fine with a 1/4 turn (about 1 bar read below the carb) but as soon as I put it anywhere near 1/2 turn (used to be 1.3-1.4 bar) if I really put my foot down so the boost builds very quickly, it boosts so much the boost sensor cuts the ignition (boost sensor set to 1.7 bar) & I get the old shotgun out the exhaust & lots of flame!! This looks very impressive but knocks the acceleration on the head!! Whats going on? Is the actuator over stessed with sudden boost? It won't do it if you build the boost progressively. I have swapped the 8mm boost pipes arround the carb for silicone ones recently. They do seem quite soft. Do you think they are blowing up like balloons on sudden heavy boost? I have checked the restrictors. ( The actuator is a two port alloy one & is new on a BB T25) Sorry about the essay! Cheers Wiz. Answer: It does sound actuator related but i think you should refit the standard pipework to see if it is the silicon hose or not. |
| ID: 1039 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: head job! Question: hi wiz please could give me some advice on having a gas flowed + ported head what kind of power increase can i expect from a gas flowed head ,over the standard original head.would new valve guides +seals , aftermarket cam also make any difference,if i do decide to take the head of! i am running between 14-16 psi max, or is it a waste of time unless i use bigger boost? cheers for your time and advice. ANDY C Answer: A head job is always a good idea as mass produced heads are never tip top flowers due to casting etc. A decent job will give you power but how much is always impossible to tell. New shorter valve guides and new seals will help too as will a cam. You don't have to do it yet as your state of tune is quite mild but you will see bigger increases in power when you do turn the boost up later. |
| ID: 1040 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Timing Question: Hi there wiz, I have recently read about swapping the timing wires to advance the ignition ? Is this a worthwile exercise ? I run low comp pistons which should make detonation less of a risk Help Ben Answer: It will give good low down power increases as long as you don't get pinking. Use high octane fuel like super or optimax and you should be fine. |
| ID: 1041 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: miles Question: ive had my car 2 months now and not 1 mile has shown up on the clock,has the cable bust? Answer: It is electronic on the GT turbo so there is no cable as such, although there is an electrical cable from the gearbox sender to a junction by the air filter and on up to the back of the dash. Check this cable and the connections as they are renowned to go wrong. If not then the speedo is probably kaput! |
| ID: 1042 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: adjustable boost still not working!!!! Question: ive checked all the pipes and put on all the standard ones back on and it has made no difference, wot else is there to try?? cheers wiz Answer: I don't mean to be rude but have you connected the adjustable boost lines up to the correct fitments on the adjuster knob? It seems weird that it was all working before you changed it and still doesn't work when you change it back. The only other thing i can think of it that you have a boost leak somewhere. |
| ID: 1043 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Correct Boost circuit Question: I recently changed the way my adjustable boost worked, I was trying to eliminate the boost flutter as I had a pipe running from the carb top into the dash then onto the actuator. I now have a single pipe running into the dash from the exhaust outlet of a bleed valve situated on the actuator hosing, then in the car I have an adjustable valve for adjustment on the fly, but, it didn't work and it wouldn't change at all. To make it work I have had to put 4mm pipe either side of the bleed valve and 6mm! into the incar valve! Where should the restrictors be in the circuit? I suppose on the actuator side of the bleed valve so the pressure is greater on that side and has to go into the incar valve? Any info would be appreciated, sorry for the long winded explination. Claaarkio :-) Answer: So let me get this straight......... You are using and under bonnet bleed valve as a max boost limiter and then limiting the exhaust side of the max boost with the in car valve? Then with the big diameter pipe fitted it now works correctly? Is that right?? If so then i would say you don't need retrictors as the under bonnet valve is a restrictor. |
| ID: 1044 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Running Problems Question: at low revs the cars splutters eratically but is not regular, when it does the car is undrivable. at high revs with boost the car performs fine apart from a small flat spot second to third gear. i have changed leads, plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm, carb, ignition module, fuel pump, fuel filter and air filter. would the fuel pressure regulator or wastegate affect performance or have you any other suggestions. please help as i have lots i want to do once i have cured this problem many thanks Answer: Both the fuel pressure regulator and wastegate usually fail completely and don't give irregular faults. If you have a dump valve fitted then check the diaphram as a small split can cause problems. I would also check the wiring to and from the relay next to the ignition module and the relay itself as this controls the ignition modules power and can be dodgy. Also i would have a look at the main HT lead (King lead) and make sure it doesn't run too close to the timing sensor wires as they can effect running too. |
| ID: 1045 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ECU Trouble? Question: Howdy Wiz. Car's bin playyin up abit recently. In the past i've had a couple of occasions where the fecker just turned over and over and over with obviously no attempt to fire (ie no spark). When i 'fiddled' with the main HT lead that plugs in the back of the ECU and tried again she fired no troubles. Anyway, it hadn't dun this for a while until about last week, fiddled again and cranked up ok. Then after about 10 miles it started runing like a bag o shite! Stuttering in every gear and as soon as i let it idle it just cut out. Left it about 30 secs and it fired up, drove normally rest of way to work. Had a look at some connectors that night and the red and white wires from the 'top' plug on the ECU had part of them bare in the engine compartment. Thought they could be causin the problems by shortin summat out when driving or summat. Taped them up and she fired up and was fine. Anyway after another few days and over 200 miles the stuttering in gear came back, switched engine off, back on and drove normally to work again. It still doesn't feel quite right, response seems slow and i'm just waiting for it to start stuttering or not want to start on a morning again........... wot's ya best guess?! Cheers Steevio Answer: I would say the wires you have taped up need to be either renewed or sorted and retaped (heat shrink would be better) The wiring around the ignition unit and it's relay has always been a problem on the GTT. I would recommend a full rewire of the relay and ignition module if possible. |
| ID: 1046 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Wet belts Question: Hi Wizza, The passenger side front seat belt appears to be getting wet after heavy rain. Only the section of the belt which disappears into the trim/body of the car is wet. Where is the water likely to be getting in? My guess is the rear quarter seal. Any where else I should look? How do I get access to the inertia reel, this is obviously in the cavity between the outer and inner door skins but how do I get at it. Shouldn't it have some form of cover to prevent it getting wet? If water is getting in does this mean my sills will rot out, or can the water drain away some how. Thanks for the help in advance. Cheers, Nick Answer: Water running down from that area must be from window seal, door seal or possibly sun roof if fitted. The water will run either into the sills or into the footwell. You have to remove the plastic trim panels to gain access. It shouldn't need a cover as water shouldn't be there. |
| ID: 1047 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Flames Question: I have just read about the use of a spark plug taped into the exhaust about five inches from the tail connected to a supply and switch and switching it causes flames from the exhaust....This would look cool and very dragsterish...will this work.......will it shaft anything expensive........ Many thanks Steve K Answer: It won't hurt anything except passers by maybe!!! It will only work if the car is overfuelling and sending neat fuel out the exhaust which is bad for the engine and fuel consumption. Try a hard cut rev limiter instead if you want flames on a normally fuelling car. |
| ID: 1048 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Correct Boost circuit Question: Yes, you've got it wizzy. So do I need a restrictor on the actuator side of the under bonnet bleed valve of the carb side ? or both ? cheers claaarkio :-) Answer: I would say neither! |
| ID: 1049 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: stalling when cold Question: hi wizz,hope you could help with a small problem,I am running a standard 5 boost,jets etc when I start the car from cold on a morning with full choke the car fires first time revs pick up then sometimes the revs fall then it stalls it can do this a couple of times before it picks up once if does it is fine no missfire hessitation it only does this when it is very cold.car starts fine when hot or it is warmish on a morning the choke adjustment is fine I have also changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm, plugs are good ht leads seem ok.do you have any ideas as to where else I should be looking thanks v much.Nick Answer: I would say it is probably down to fuel air mixture going weak in very cold air. Try turning the mixture up a little in cold weather. |
| ID: 1050 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine data Question: I am currently doing a bit of a project and as such need to lay my hands on as much engine data as I can: Engine airflow details Turbine inlet and exhaust temps engine volumetric efficiencies etc etc Data would be much appreciated but a point in the right direction will not go without thanks Yours Glenn Answer: You are best off talking to a tuner that has done some developement like BB Tuning or Europarts. I expect they will have some more useful information for you than i can muster at the moment. |
| ID: 1051 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Changing Headlights Question: Wiz, please can you tell me or recommend someone to change the morette headlights on my car back to the original's.i feel it has taken the look of the 5 away with the quads and would like to change them back! A tuner told me it had never been done as the wiring is altered etc?could you let me know either way. thanks michael Answer: You will need to remove the additional wiring and relay for the spotlight part of the kit but the headlight part should be the same. Most people fit the twin headlights wiring using blue block connectors (scotchlocks) as they are easy to use and usually are reliable. If your car has had the wiring joined in another way it may be more difficult but still possible. |