| ID: 932 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: running lean Question: hello wiz i took my car to the rolling road at welllane turbos the other day and said to them turn it up to 20psi.so they started turning it up in stages but he said he wouldnt run it any thing over 16psi which resulted in a measly 163bhp,he said he wouldnt let the fuel drop below 4.5 which it was at 17psi so what is he onabout with this 4.5 because i have an uprated fuel pump new fuel filter and a 145 main jet so i cant see why that it was running out of fuel hope you can help steve Answer: Your fuelling may be sufficient for every day use and low boost but i expect you will need a smaller air corrector to richen up the fuelling at the top end. It is imperitive that you do not run the car at high boost and a lean mixture as it could cause the engine to overheat and blow up. |
| ID: 933 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: volvo transplant Question: Hello wiz, Im thinking of putting a 1.7 volvo 480 turbo engine, electrics, running gear into my R5turbo. The reason being, I was half way throug reconditioning my whole renault when taking apart the engine we found several cracks in the cylinder head, between the valve seats, we found the problem on another R5 engine which was purchased for spares. I have completely stripped my Ereg R5GT Electric blue (clearly the best colour!) ready for serious work and tuning, rather than spend £3-4000 on tuning the frail 1.4 lump to get it to 250Bhp, to transplant the whole runnings of the volvo in, which when mildly tuned can produce 200Bhp, more torque and more top end. I will be aiming for at least 250Bhp and seriously quick 0-60 + 1/4 mile. If you can help with any obvious reasons why this cant be done, or any helpfull info or links to people who have tried it before would be much appreciated. I know allot about both R5GT and the V480, having owned a 480 and still the proud owner of 2x R5GT's, most of the work will be done between myself and friends and im hoping to get lots of pic's from the project. As soon as we get rolling I will E-Mail some pics and info if you are interested, Cheers! Answer: The main reason this is not a regular conversion is the electrics side of things. You will need to transfer the wiring loom for the ECU etc and integrate it into the dodgy Renault electrics. As far as i know the engine is a straight swop although i am unsure about the gearbox used in the Volvo. |
| ID: 934 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: strange noise from steering wheel! Question: Dear Wizard, My 5 has developed what can only be described as a sort of grating/ creaking noise from the steering wheel! The noise started about a week ago now, and is only present when turning the wheel! and ideas? Cheers Bryn Answer: There are many possibilities for noises. It could be the surround catching the wheel, the steering column joints, the steering balljoints or suspension componants. Try checking these out and get back to me if you don't find it. |
| ID: 935 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: TURBO FITMENT Question: HI WIZ JUST BOUGHT MY SELF A SECOND HAND TURBO FOR MY LITTLE CAR AND FOUND THAT THE MALE/MALE OIL FEED CONNECTIONS ARE DIFFERENT. THE OLD FITMENT HAS A 1/2""UNF THREAD WHICH GOES INTO THE OIL FEED PIPE,BUT NOT TO SURE WHAT THE OTHER END IS.THE ONE I HAVE AT THE MOMENT IS 7/16"" WHICH IS TO SMALL(IT JIGGLES IN THE TURBO) SO THE NEW FITMENT TO FIT THE TURBO HAS TO BE LARGER.COULD YOU TELL ME THE THREAD IN THE TURBO OR A SUPPLIER FOR THE BIGGER MALE/ MALE ADAPTOR PLEASE.CHEERS GRINGO GAV BUTLER Answer: Try talking to one of the tuners or universal turbos for thread sizes as my old brain forgets these things. |
| ID: 936 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: water/methanol Question: Wiz, do you reckon its worth doing water/methanol injection, even tho im only running 14psi?? If it is, will there be a power increase, and would you choose to place the injector in the carb top, in the intercooler, spray water at the front of the intercooler or in my dumpvalve t piece. I have tried the carb top method before and found severe power loss when it kicked in, possibly to un atomised water dribbling into the carb??!!! What preventative methods would you use for bore wash?? Cheers boss....mat Answer: To be honest, for 14psi, i wouldn't bother. I would spray the water into the top hose from as near to the intercooler as possible to allow good mixture into the airstream if i was using the system. To prevent bore wash, get the amount of water correct! |
| ID: 937 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dashboard Question: hi wiz ive just bought my first 5 and the dash has seen better days(just the plastic bit). ive been to a breakers yard and had to remove the dash my self and broke it in the process. Is there a way to replace it without damage Answer: If you take care and lever anything on thick pieces of plastic then you should be ok. Make sure any/all screws are removed prior to levering anything. |
| ID: 938 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: hot cold then hot Question: Hi Wiz I took my 5 out this afternoon to fine a mile down the road the temp gauge on the third line so i switched the fan on with the manual switch and that cooled it but i put the heater on and it was stone cold at first then warmed up. Now the thing is either stone cold or red hot what is going on ????? It has got a thermostat and copper core rad ps this all started after i put the thermostat back in cos it was overcooling Cheers JP Answer: Sounds to me like your thermostat is either the wrong rating or is sticking. |
| ID: 939 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: warning light Question: hi wiz I'm not sure if my temp gauge is right. It used to go up to the 2/3 mark and then the warning light came on, so I put a low temp fan switch on and now the gauge gets to about 1/2 and the fan comes on and then goes off when the gauge gets to 1/3, but the warning light still comes on when the gauge gets to 1/2. Does this matter or is there something else wrong? Answer: It seems strange that the warning light is coming on at these temperatures. It sounds to me like your light is wired into your fan somehow rather than being a seperate circuit. I would try and trace the wiring and see if there are any bodged connections along the circuit. |
| ID: 940 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: GALLONS AND GALLONS OF FUEL Question: No matter what boost i run my car uses so much fuel to the point of where i can watch the fuel gauge drop over a couple of miles I think it just needs a good tune but do you know of any weaknesses in the fuel lines and where they are Cheers Rich Answer: No i have no idea as to weaknesses in the fuel lines. There could be corrosion in the metal pipes or a split in the rubber hoses but nothing specific springs to mind. Are you using a jet bigger than a 130? If so then you may just be massively overfuelling. |
| ID: 941 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: backpressure Question: hi wizz how important is back pressure I have just got hold of a 2.5"" bore s/steel full exhaust it only has a rear silencer. the zorst is for a gt (there is no name on it) could I suffer from lack of back pressure due to size of the bore and only 1 silencer.cheers.. Answer: It has been said that some back pressure is needed to prevent seals leaking in the turbo but i know lots of people with 2.5"" exhausts and they don't have any problems! It will not restrict your power at all so it should be a good thing. |
| ID: 942 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Differences between phase 1 and 2 cooling and igniton systems Question: I have a Phase one GT turbo which i have been rebuilding and i plan to try for the 200BHP mark in the not too distant future. I know that the phase 1 and 2 cooling system is different, is it worth modifying my cooling system to the phase 2 type. I plan to fit a seperate oil cooler as this will help cooling considerably but what about the cooling circuit, should i change it and add the swirl pot etc???? Also my car has no anti-pink sensor, do you think it would be worth adding one???? and what how is it wired into the ignition system???? I have a RE209 module relocated to the phase 2 position so i assume all i need is the sensor. I have also fitted a Jap style front bumper with mesh and big cutouts, i am thinking of adding a front mounted intercooler and to save money i may try local scrap yards for an intercooler from another car. Any ideas on cars which use intercoolers of a suitable size????? Answer: If you want to go for the Phase 2 cooling system then do, i don't think it is really any better than the Phase 1 as long as everythng is in good working order. If you get a pinking sensor, screw it into the hole in the front of the head and just plug it into the plug on the Renix unit. The bigger the cooler you get, the bigger the pressure loss through it and the harder your turbo has to work to fill that extra volume. If you have a big hybrid then its not such a problem (although it may add lag) but a standard or small hybrid will suffer. On the up side, the bigger the cooler, the larger the area you have for cooling the charge so the better it is for the engine. You could try something like a Lancia Delta Integrale cooler if you can find one. I think things like the RS500 Cosworth ones are too big for the poor old 5. |
| ID: 943 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: dump when still? Question: my dump valve does not dump when i am still (just reving it),but i have bin told by a few mates that it should. i have a grp A dump valve and adjustable boost control,is there any reason for it not dumping? Answer: It will take a lot of revs to get the dump valve to dump at standstill. It could be down to the spring fitted in the valve. If it is fitted with a stronger spring then the pressure built up in the system may not reach that required to open the valve. |
| ID: 944 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: No turbo Question: I need your help. The other day my car was going fine until i stopped for about 15 mins somewhere. When i started it back up again and went down the road i realised the turbo wasn't spinning up. THe turbo is alright i think. It has done about 50k and i had the car tuned the other day and they said it was fine. Anyway i got home and then went to work and it started working again. On the way home it was working fine one minute and the next it just stopped. Help me. I don't want to go and buy a new turbo and they are shit without it. The turbo is running at standard boost. Has it got anything to do with the actuator or wastegate. Help me please! Stuart Answer: It could be that you have got a build up of carbon in the bearings which is stalling the turbo. This is due to not letting the turbo cool down for long enough before switching the engine off. It could possibly be related to actuator or wastegate sticking also. |
| ID: 945 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Episode with a pothole Question: Hi wiz, Got a small prob I hope you can shed some light on. Driving at night through Watford and drove through a pothole with the passenger side wheels (....OOPS!!). I have notice that my car doesnt roll back as freely as it used to?? When I am just about to move of it feels a bit reluctant to being moving its back wheels (just a bit) Whats up doc?? Answer: Sounds like you may have damaged the rear wheel bearing or even bent the stub axle. Get the car to a tyre place that has 4 wheel tracking and get the car checked out as soon as possible to prevent tyre wear problems. |
| ID: 946 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: NO turbo cont.. Question: If it is the actuator or wastegate sticking. What sort of money am i looking at to have it sorted. If it is carbon build up what should i do about it. Thanks for answering so quickly. stuart Answer: If you have a removeable type actuator then it can probably be stripped and rebuilt, but if it is the standard type then it is sealed for life! Try lubricating the shaft and joints on the actuator arm but don't over do it as it will burn off the oil at high temperatures. If it is carbon build up then you could try flushing the oil system with a commercially available flushing agent but DO NOT drive the car with this in as it could damage the turbo. Just run it at idle to working temperature and then rev it by hand (or foot!) to free off the carbon. After this, drain the flushing agent, fill with cheap oil, do a few miles and then drain this. Finally renew the filter and refill with your normal high performance oil. This will not guarentee to fix the problem but it should help. |
| ID: 947 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Strange Leak Question: I own a Phase One 5 turbo and I have recently discovered what I believe to be a coolant leak. The liquid is clear, sometimes slightly greyish/black and has no smell. Plus on start up from inside the car I can hear what seems like liquid bubbling or under pressure, are these connected? Cheers PS - Do you have the phone number for Europarts in Stoke? Answer: It could be that you have a heater problem. This would explain the noise in the car and if the heater matrix is blocked with crud then it could be this that is the discolouration. Flush out your cooling system and refill with the correct level of anti freeze/water mix and then bleed the system fully. This should sort out the cruddy water. If this doesn't cure the problem then try taking the heater out of the circuit by joining the pipes that feed it through the bulkhead. If this then sorts it you need to replace the heater matrix which can be a bitch of a job! Try the contacts section for Europarts phone number. |
| ID: 948 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: coilovers Question: dear wiz mate if you are gona put 17s on the old regi a lot of work i know do you have to use coil over suspension if so where does the best price for a regi? cheers mate your a star!! Answer: I don't think you HAVE to use coilovers but it helps with clearance problems. Most places are around the £400 mark for the AVO coilovers but there are a couple of other types too. |
| ID: 949 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Its losing it Question: Hi wiz Hope you can help i think the head gasket is leaking on my 5 i have got a slight leak on my expansion bottle but its losing half the bottle contents in 15 miles if it is the head gasket will i have to get the head skimmed when its off, are the liners lightly to come out when the head is removed and any other jobs i should do while its off Cheers JP Answer: Confirm the head gasket is leaking with a compression test. If you need to replace it then you need to break the gasket seal, by twisting the head, before removing the last head bolt is removed then you shouldn't dislodge the liners. I would recommend a gasflowing job on the head while you have it off and yes it will probably need skimming too. |
| ID: 950 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: tailgate Question: i want a flushed tailgate like the one on the home page please tell me where i can get this done and how much roughly it costs. cheers! Answer: Try any decent bodyshop. They will weld in a panel and smooth it for you. |
| ID: 951 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Completely Screwed ! Question: Alright Wizard. The latest problem is quite strange. A while back I had trouble getting the car into gear and obviously suspected the clutch. Thing was, it was a relativlely new grp N jobbie from BBT. It had never slipped or smelt of buring. Anyway, got the RAC out and he said also that it was the clutch. I for some reason didnt think so, so i put a small clip around where the clutch cable meets the gear box (shortening the cable) and suddenly I got gears again! Any way, the other day trying to jump the car from a flat battery, each time i tried to put it in gear with the clutch down, it was still in gear - I know its not the clucth and I just changed the cable ands all was fine - so do you have any idea what to look for now ( and the gear box is brand new!) MAny thanks Rik Answer: Try putting the clip back on the cable and see if that works! |
| ID: 952 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: lowering the 5 Question: i live in york turbo wiz any ideas on anyone nearby that can lower the torsion bars? i have a couple of mechanic mates that would do it but want some instructuions if any one has any or a magazine cutout it would be much appreciated as i know revs covered it cheers mate! Answer: Try reading the lowering guide on this site as done by Karlos. http://www.gtturbo.org/articles/article.asp?id=15 |
| ID: 953 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gear problems are back! Question: Hi Wiz, me again. Remember I told you ages ago that the 5 was sticking in 5th. Well I changed the gearbox oil, altered the linkage and she ran like a dream. Now it's back, not as often and the more I use it the less it sticks. Does this mean it's an internal selector, and if so wots it gonna cost me? Ps I only use the 5 at weekends is it just in need of a good run or am I being too optomistic. Cheers Wiz Fitz Answer: If using the car more makes the gearbox stick less then i would suggest the gear oil is too thick. Try a good run and see what its like then. |
| ID: 954 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gasflowing Question: Wiz, I am in the middle of a full rebuild,and need some advice on getting the head gasflowed. From what i can see there are many schools of thought on the subject, as to whether or not there are gains to be made. I recently read an article in PGTI, which stated that Head mods are not good on the 5 Turbo, and that money would be best spent elsewhere? Is this true or do i bite the bullet and go for k-tecs stage 3 head?And what sort of improvements if any can i expect?Questions, questions, so many questions!!!!! Cheers Bryn Answer: I would agree in saying the money is best spent elsewhere BUT if you have the car apart already then i would say go for it and look forward to a few extra ponies!! |
| ID: 955 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Phase 2 suspension on Phase 1 car? Question: Good day Whizzo, can i put phase 2 shox on my phase 1 car? Answer: The top plate of the suspension mount is in a different place on the phase 1 to the phase 2 so i would think there was a difference in the shocks etc too. Try asking a dealer if the part numbers are the same! |
| ID: 956 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: missfiring at 2500rpm and above??? Question: hi wizard, when im at about 2500rpm and above on light throttle i get a really bad missfire it doesnt do it when i accelerate hard only on light throttle??? ive tried 2 new ecu' s and ive got new plugs, splitfire leads and a new dizzy cap (non genuine??). if you could shed some light on this problem for me i will love you forever!!!!! cheers lee Answer: I have never tried them myself but i have heard that the splitfire leads can cause problems. Try a standard or normal uprated set from a friend to see if this curs the problem. If it does then take the splitfires back for a refund. |
| ID: 957 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fuel type Question: hi wiz is it pos to use shell optimax super unleaded it has a 98octane rating ive been using lrp cheers Answer: Yes you can use it! |
| ID: 958 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: pinking Question: hi wiz I have got a pinking problem when i accelarate hard. I have changed the plugs (b8evx) and the airfilter this has made it pink less what else could be the problem.??????????????????? thanx Answer: Pinking is usually down to the compression ratio being too high (due to carbon build up or overskimming of the head) low octain rated fuel (normal unleaded) or incorrect timing. If you have an adjustable timing sensor the just retard the ignition a bit. If you do not have one then try using super unleaded, optimax or real 4 star. (yes it is still available but is blooming expensive) |
| ID: 959 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Valves an engine built up Question: Hello Wizard !! Thank for the fast answer the last time ! Can you explain me the advantages of so called ""3 Nut"" valves ??? They had been used from Renault Sport in the group A and N . I´m going to built up a complete new engine !! Can you give me some advice what´s important ! Do you think a 4 in 1 exhaust manifold is usefull ?? I have enough money so what do you think I´ve to do, for example balancing and lightening the hole engine units ? Do you think low comp. pistons are a good solution ?? I don´t want a car that idles at 2000 rpm and builts up boost at 4000 rpm !! I´m going to reach about 250 HP !! Please give me some advice ! Answer: I have never heard of 3 nut valves but i have heard of 3 angle valve seats and these give better flow. A well balanced and put together engine will allways run smoother. An equal length 4 into 1 manifold would give excellent power gains on the 5 due to its very poorly designed exhaust manifold and system. You could use low comp pistons but you are better off sorting any potential pinking problems before they arise with std compression. It is more than possible to produce a car capable of over 300bhp with the correct bits well put together. |
| ID: 960 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine fitting Question: How hard is it to fit a gtt engine into a renault clio i need to know before i try? thanks Answer: How long is a piece of string? I have never attempted this myself nor do i personally know anyone who has. If you use the clio gearbox and driveshafts i expect it will fit quite easily but the hard bit is connecting everything up like the electrics etc. |
| ID: 961 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: which cam??? Question: Hi wizz, I am thinking of buying a ktr230 turbocharger from k-tec racing, could you tell me if you know any one who has one and what they think of them. Could you also recommend a nice cam to buy, and what sort of power should i expect to get, i also have a grp a carb, dv and incar adj boost. cheers.. Answer: I think your best bet would be to speak to David at K-Tec Racing. He is friendly enough and will tell you if the bits are right for your car's spec or not. |