| ID: 902 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Clang......white smoke......ooops!!!! Question: Dear Mr. Wizard, After bombing along in my pride and joy the other night, all of a sudden I changed up to third and then I heard clang, clang...and then saw what looked like, there was a effing smoke machine under me car!!! I am almost certain that me turbo is knackered, however, I thought I would check it out with the expert and hoped that there may be a glimmer of hope and that you would tell me it was going to be something else!!!! The turbo was standard and I have an in car boost, dump valve, chrome carb elbow and green air filter. To make matters worse I have just forked out over £500 to have an uprated clutch fitted cause the old one was constantly slipping. If it is the turbo I would be very grateful if you could give me any suggestions on suitable replacements and whether this would mean upgrade on the standard intercooler I currently have? Cheers in advance for your wonderful words of wisdom!!! James Answer: A good indication as to whether the turbo has gone or not is to remove the turbo to intercooler hose and check for oil in the pipe. If there is fresh oil in there then it is a good bet the turbo has gone. If there was white smoke then it is normally burning coolant. Check the coolant level to see if it has dropped at all. If it has, get a compression test done to see if the head gasket or a liner has gone. I would recommend an alloy intercooler to anyone who uses a standard one at the moment. |
| ID: 903 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: XS Brass single piston Dump Valve Question: Hey Turbo wizard, I'm really confused to which d/v to purchase. I have heard that a piston d/v is no good for a R5. Is this true? My main question is whether you have heard of the Brass single piston d/v range by turbo XS found at www.impossible_performance.cwc.net . This is a piston d/v - if it is brass does it make a difference? Apparently it will do 106 dB at 10psi boost! Is there a different d/v that will do the same if the XS is no good for the R5?? Thanks TW Answer: I have never heard of these d/v's. I don't see why it won't work as long as you keep it cleaned and lubricated so it works properly. |
| ID: 904 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Locking wheel nuts Question: Hi there, My car has one locking wheel nut on each wheel, and where 2 of them have been over tightned with an air gun, when I put in the socket adaptor and apply the breakers bar, it slips. I have been told that the reason for this is because someone over tightened the bolts (with 3 circular pins style) and the pin holes in the studs have been warped. Can you please suggest a way to remove these locking wheel nuts as I wish to change my wheels. Answer: You could try hammering a socket onto the locking nuts and undoing it like that. It will need to be very tight so use an old socket in case you break it! |
| ID: 905 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Blue printing Question: OK straight to the point. What the f&*k is blue printing? Seen it mentioned here and there (such as online insurance). What does it do, how does it work and who does it. Anything to clear this up would be superb. Cheers mate. Answer: To put it in laymans terms, blueprinting is taking the engine to very close and precise tolerances which may add a horsepower or two for race engines but is really a bit pointless for road engines. It is very expensive as it takes a lot of time to get the machining and parts matched properly. |
| ID: 906 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: cold starting Question: hi wizz when starting from cold with the choke open the car starts fine and the revs rise but just recently after a few seconds the revs suddenly drop and sometimes it stalls cranking over again it is fine also ok when hot why does it only do it from cold....thanks Answer: It could be that the car needs the choke more/less than normal due to the temperature outside or maybe due to fuelling changes you have made like bigger jets. |
| ID: 907 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Smoking when changing gear !!!! Question: hello, Right i think my car is about buggered, when i start it up it sounds like a diesel & changing gear blue smoke is coming out the exhaust and i dont mean just a little puff !!!!! Aswell it smells of burning oil, but isnt losing a lot of oil really, Really i just want to know whats the best & cheapest option cause i dont wanna have to pay loads of money to sort it out. Cheers Mate Answer: The noise you describe could be worn or loose tappets which in turn could be related to worn valve stem seals or valve guides. The smoke on start up and changing gear could also be turbo related.To eliminate the turbo from the equation, remove the turbo to intercooler pipe and check it for fresh oil deposits. If it is fairly clean then it is more likely the valve stems. This can be sorted in conjunction with some headwork for not a lot more than the headwork itself but will still cost a good few pennies! |
| ID: 908 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Back to basics? Question: Dear Mr Wiz, running a JR induction kit at the moment, but due to the proximity to the turbo, am I losing out on some power? I was thinking about putting a K&N filter in the original casing to protect it from the heat, what do you think? I've seen some filters that come with heatsheilds, and they look a lot bigger than the one I've got. Is it worth trying to duct some air from the front of the car, or am I wasting my time? Even though I like the induction roar, I feel the need for speed! Cheers Answer: The standard airbox is quite restrictive in that it has small intakes whereas a cone filter is open to all the air it needs. Ducting cold air will allways help power and cooling at speed so it is a good idea. The JR kit will be ok as long as you are not over 200bhp or so. A heatshield is a must to keep the hot turbo and exhaust air away from the filter. |
| ID: 909 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Wheel vibration Question: Dear Wiz, I have noticed that when breaking hard, for example when slowing down on motorway slip roads (80 to 30). I get noticeable vibration from the front wheels through the steering. I've recently replaced the front brake pads with EBC greenstuff (they're stoked - except no substitute!), fitted Goodrich steel braided flexible hoses (to the front only, I'll fit the rear when I have time). The front of the car has been lowered 35mm, but the rear hasn't been lowered yet. There is no wear in the front wheel bearings and there is no vibration at low speed braking. What's going on? Are the discs warped and if so how can I check them, or is it something else? The car is fitted with 15"" wheels (7"" wide) with 195x45s I look forward to your wise words with great anticipation. cheers, Nick Answer: Are the discs cheap standard items? It could be that the discs are warping with the heat from high speed braking but it could also be down to worn steering joints or suspension joints. Take the car to someone like kwik fit that does free brake checks but don't get the work done there as they are expensive! |
| ID: 910 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Electrics.... what electrics? Question: My turbo has been sat idle for nearly two years, apart from occasional starting (it has let me down badly in the past!). When i turn the key (with jump leads attached) all gauges go right up and the speedo indicates 140mph!!! and of course theres not even so much as a click from the starter. I presume this is some kind of short/ earth prob but where do i start. Please help, i really want it back on the road and with the winter coming its ideal time to strip down and give a new lease of life. Be prepared for a barrow load of questions!! ....THANKS.... Answer: Elecrics are a funny thing, especially on Renault 5's! It could be your battery has shorted out if it has been left connected for that long. The main engine earth lead runs from the drivers side bulkhead to near the water pump so check this is intact and ok. There are also earth points behind the headlight and in the dash area. This could be the one you are looking at for dash faults. |
| ID: 911 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Fuel Economy Question: How many MPG should my 86 turbo give, what is your estimate and what did Renault advertise when the car was manufactured? Thanks... Answer: Renault advertised up to about 50 mpg but that was probably without the turbo boosting.You should expect somewhere around 25-35 mpg depending on how you drive the car and what boost you run. |
| ID: 912 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Colour Coding Question: I've just bought a black phase 1 turbo and would like to get the bumpers and arches colour coded with the same finish as the bodywork. Who can I contact to carry out the work in the midlands area and do you have any idea of the price??? Cheers Answer: Try looking in the local yellow pages for bodyshops or give Europarts a call as they are in Stoke and may be able to help. |
| ID: 913 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: TYPE OF FUEL Question: MY 5 IS GOING ON THE ROLLERS ON MONDAY. I AM USING LRP AT THE MO. WHEN THE CAR WENT FOR A POWER RUN IT CAME OUT AT 74BHP @WHEELS @ 70MPH. IT DOES NEED SOME SERIOUS TUNING BUT THIS IS STILL SHIT. DO YOU THINK IT IS WORTH FILLING IT UP WITH SUPER UNLEADED BEFORE IT GOES TO BE TUNED OR IS THERE NO REAL DIFFERENCE. WHAT DOES A STANDARD 5 USUALLY PUT OUT AT THE WHEELS ANYWAY? THANKS STUART Answer: A standard 5 Does 120bhp at the flywheel which will be about 100ish at the wheels, maybe more, maybe less. I have heard horror stories from people using LRP so i allways recommend super unleaded if real 4 star isn't available. |
| ID: 914 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: brake pedal problems Question: I have recently noticed that when braking i have excessive travel on my brake pedal (almost to the floor!) but when i pump it a couple of times it goes back to normal until the next time i brake and it goes to the floor again. please help !! Darren Answer: It sounds to me like your brakes need bleeding. If you don't know the last time the brake fluid was changed or it was more than 2 years ago, then i would recommend changing the fluid before bleeding. |
| ID: 915 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Clutch Release Arm Question: Hi Turbo Wizard. I want to modify my clutch release arm so as to give a smoother clutch pedal feel as the uprated Volvo 440 turbo clutch is very jerky. I have the renault revised clutch pedal assembly already but will this help with the smoothness at all or is it all down to the modifed release arm. How could I modify the clutch feel without opening the bellhousing. Thanks in advance Answer: You could try modifying the pedal pivot point with an offset pin and slieve maybe but i doubt it will do much for your situation. The thing is, the uprated clutch is going to be more effort to use as it has stronger springs. I haven't fitted a modified arm before so don't know what it feels like afterwards. |
| ID: 916 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Heater blowing cool air only Question: Hi wiz When I turn the temp knob for the interior fan to hot it feels really loose and not connected to any thing. What do you reckon is up?? what the best way to fix da prob Munish da Munsta Answer: The wire to the heater control has probably either snapped or come off. Remove the ashtray and try to gain access to the back of the controls to see what the problem is. |
| ID: 917 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: soft pedal for a group n clutch Question: I NEED TO CHANGE MY CLUTCH AND HAVE SPOKEN TO A FRIEND WHO HAS RECENTLY PUT A UPRATED ONE IN (THE VOLVO CLUTCH I THINK) SINCE DOING THIS HE HAS HAD PROBLEMS WITH HIS PEDAL, I DONT REALLY WANT TO ENCOUNTER THIS IS THERE ARE THING YOU CAN DO TO STOP THE PEDAL BEING STIFF IF SO WHAT BITS DO I NEED? Answer: I know lots of people who use this clutch and all of them have a stiffer pedal as you would expect with a cable clutch. It is not a real problem as you soon get used to it as your leg muscles grow! :-) |
| ID: 918 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Volvo 480 starter motor Question: Hi wiz! I have heard of people using volvo 480 starter motors on their R5 Turbo. Does this starter motor fix without any problems? Also is it true that the high output starter motors that the tuners sell is just a volvo 480 turbo starter motor? Does the starter motor have to come from a 480 turbo or can you use one of a normally aspirated Volvo 480? An honest answer would be greatly appreciated. cheers Imran Answer: I have heard of the use of 480 turbo starters before but am not sure if you could use the standard item. It is probably down to cranking power as top model cars usually have better engine ancillaries for some reason. You could allways try a standard item and let me know how you get on! |
| ID: 919 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: type of fuel?? Question: Wiz, what horror stories have you heard about LRP, and would you recommend the use of Optimax, even tho i know of some ppl's cars having major grief from this fuel!! How come we still dont know what sort of damage unleaded fuel might be causing to our engines?? I thought tuners were deep in researching this problem!!!! Answer: I have heard that LRP has substances in it that affect the turbo blades so i avoid it just in case. I have not used Optimax myself but have heard mainly good things about it. Unleaded causes most problems from being a lower octain rating than the old 4 star and that is why optimax and super unleaded are better. |
| ID: 920 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Erratic Idling Question: My 5GTT idles erratically increasing & decreasing between 850 -1100. I've checked all the pipes for splits. I removed the Air Mixture screw? (Large brass one) and blocked this off with my finger, with this done the car is stable at idle. With this screw back in it goes back to being erratic. Any ideas?? Thanks Answer: It must be leaking air past the threads on the screw. Try using a sealant on it to prevent leakage. |
| ID: 921 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Cracked block Question: Poor Doris was found to have a crack in her block. right at the bottom on the face that the sump bolts to, flywheel end, rear corner. My question O wizard should you chose to accept it is... Do you think that it is OK to weld it? Proposed to cut to the base of the crack and weld up using ""cast rods"" . It doesnt appear to be a particularily stressed part of the block. Thanks Russell T Answer: All i can say Russel my old fruit is try it! I would recommend a new or second hand block personally but it is up to you. |
| ID: 922 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Strange sound Question: I get a strange sound comin from my right back brakes at low speeds it is well annoying it sounds like the pads are catching something but i have replaced them and it still does it, the caliper is not sticking and the sound doesn't change when braking could it be a rear bearing how much are they ( I have a hydraulic press so can do it myself) Answer: Try GSF or your local parts deask for prices of bearings but expect around £20 |
| ID: 923 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Top Mount Question: I have just replaced my top mount on the passenger side but now when i go round a left hand bend I get a slight vibration and noise from the front ??????? Help cheers Rich!!! Answer: Have you made sure all the bolts etc are tight? It could be a loose bolt or the right hand side top mount may also be knackered! |
| ID: 924 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: drivers side window Question: My drivers side window won't work I have tried replacing the switch and the motor and it still won't work has this ever happen to any-one before Answer: The motors are renowned to go wrong and I expect you will have to replace yours. Trouble is you can only get the whole assembly and not just the motor. Expensive from Renault but you could try a scrappy or Tuner for a second hand one. |
| ID: 925 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Which cam?? Question: Hi Wiz, I'm always adjusting my tappets so I figured I'd change the cam & followers. Question is a standard or modified cam?? Some tell me a lumpy job is real noisy ( tappet noise) & not worth it unless you have 230ish + bhp. Others say they are great & if set up correctly give another 20bhp to most modified 5's. Who's talking through their a***?? I want to get the job done & get back to quiet tappets again!! Me motors got hybrid turbo, 22ish psi, big alloy intercooler, gp A carb, dv, all the usual stuff & gave about 180bhp last time on the rollers. Please help oh beardy wise one. Cheers, Supersonic. Answer: A correctly chosen and set up cam will allways give more power at the peak revs etc but may loose out elsewhere. Try a road/ rally cam eg Piper 270 if you want to avoid any lumpyness or go for a larger 285 if you want more power and don't mind a little lumpyness! |
| ID: 926 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Bent pushrods Question: hi there wiz, got a bit of a problem !! I had my car tuned yesterday and it ran 220 bhp @ 21 psi while it was on the rollers. Then i drove it 15 miles home and round to the mrs house, I then went for a quick blast up the motorway floored it and it was fine, slowed down , i then booted it again running 24 psi, 3rd was fine all the way to 7200rpm then i shifted into 4th and floored it got to about 4500 rpm and i heard a bang and started running rough and really tappy ! :( i pulled over and opened my oil filler cap and saw a few really bent pushrods. Does it sound like a incorrectly adjusted locknut on one of the tappets ?? or just a mechanical failure ?? Help Ben Answer: It could have been a loose locknut or the damage may have been done at the high revs in third and then the rods coming out of there places causing the noise. |
| ID: 927 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Oil Seals Question: Wiz, Were can I get some oils seals from? And how do I change em? Cheers Answer: You could try someone like universal turbos for a seal kit but your turbo should really be rebalanced by a professional afterwards to ensure long life of your new seals. Price will vary depending on turbo type. |
| ID: 928 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: LRP Question: i read your answer on the type of fuel question i just wondered what horror stories you have heard about LRP, i work for a Renault dealership and have spoken to them about this and they say you should use LRP even if you have a knoked back TDC sensor i run it in my phase 1 and have never had a problem with it please tell me what you have heard Answer: I heard there can be problems due to sulphur (I think) in the LRP affecting the blades so that the corrode and go out of balance. This may be total bollocks but i have no proof either way so i stick to what i know! |
| ID: 929 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: Side skirt lookin bad Question: TurboWiz how do you take the side skirts off? Answer: Removing the arches first makes the job easy, just lift the skirt upwards to release it from the clips down the side of the car. |
| ID: 930 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: aero fuel Question: Hi wiz do you know the exact size of aero style fuel filler cap i should get for the R5? I was going to order one from tweeks but am not sure which one to go for... Answer: Sorry Adam i have no idea. Try measuring the opening for a better idea. |
| ID: 931 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
|
Subject: oil pressure Question: wheres the sender unit for the oil pressure gauge? and i want to take the anti perc system out cos its fecked,is there anything special i should know about removin it? cheers man Answer: The sender for the oil pressure gauge is on the front of the engine where the oil feed for the turbo comes out of the block. It is the round sender with two wires on it coming out of the pipe facing away from the turbo. The anti perc fan can be easily removed but you must block the hole left in the main boost hose to prevent boost leakage. |