| ID: 782 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clutch capable of 400bhp Question: Question to the wizard - For the first time ever, I have had a look at the Turbo Wizard page. Clutches capable of 400bhp - As you will proabably already know, we are developing a 400bhp GT Turbo, and have this big problem with finding a clutch to cope with that sort of power. I see in 1 post about clutches, you recommended the following - Ceramic paddle clutch. Could you please advise us where we could get hold of one of these clutches, as having done lots of Research, we cannot seem to track down one from anywhere in the country. I have spoken to all the major clutch manufacturers, and they do not make this sort of clutch. We currently are using a cerametalic clutch, and this seems to do the part upto 300 bhp, but are not sure after that. Many thanks Answer: I am awfully sorry, my old brain had sent messages to my ancient wrinkled fingers that totally forgot to include the letters e,t,a,and l in the middle of the word cerametallic! I suggest you try a multi plate clutch setup or a sintered clutch if the cerametallic is not good enough for you. I have spent sooooo long changing the so called english used by many of the question askers, that I have to be allowed a mistake or two. (especially at my age!) p.s This sort of thing is why I have the disclaimer at the bottom of the answered questions!!!!! |
| ID: 783 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Perc fan circuit Question: Could you please tell me how the anti-perc fan should be connected as the car i am rebuilding has been bodged right up. I have removed all of the dodgy wiring from the car and i have the wiring diagram in the haynes manual. But this only shows the anti-perc sensor which i assume is the one in the inlet manifold. What about the one above the turbo. How should this be wired into the anti-perc circuit Cheers K Answer: The wires to the sensors are just paralleled from each other so that either can cause the perc fan to cut in. Try using piggy back spade connectors and suitably coloured wires. |
| ID: 784 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: LSD Question: Hello again Mr Wizard Can I just say I think that its totally out of order people taking the pee out of your spelling mistake!! :-) :-) I do have a seriouse question though! I have followed your advise and have today found a second hand LSD! The person selling it doesn't seem to be too clued up and I have never even seen one let alone fitted one!! My question is, will I be able to simply remove the standard diff and replace it with the LSD? and will I be able to do the job myself?? Cheers, Whoever U R! Answer: Unless you are very competant with gearboxes then i would take it to a specialist gearbox repairer to get them to fit it. I don't know about the 5 specifically but i think you may need to machine the box as i know this has to be done on some other types of cars. |
| ID: 785 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: induction kit Question: hi wizz which is better an induction kit or a replacement panel filter I have heard some people prefer to fit a panel filter in the std air box I am thinking of fitting a green or k+n induction kit what are the advatages and disadvantages of an induction kit can you get any bother because you have removed the hot air flap in the std box thanks v much...... Answer: Choice dictates what you buy! I like the look of a cone filter and it has a large area open to airflow. The downside being that it draws its air from the engine bay which is hotter than the air drawn in from the standard airbox. The way around this is to fit cold air ducting from the front bumper or a bonnet vent to feed the cone. If you keep the standard airbox and have removed the hot air flap then fit a duct to the cutout in the front bumper from the hot air side as well as the standard pipe to increase the cold air feed. |
| ID: 786 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Window Tinting Question: How legal are tinted windows???, i've found a smashed GTT and the lad wants to sell a full set of tinted windows. I would say they are medium smoked. Ford galaxy's and that crysler thing has dark tinted windows, so it can't be that illegal can it????. Answer: Don't quote me on this but i think the legislation is something along the lines of at least 70% light must pass through the front side windows and 95% through the windscreen. Rear and rear side windows can be as black as you like. Go and speak MOT station, they should be able to tell you exactly what is allowed and what isn't. |
| ID: 787 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: side exit exhausts Question: I am seriously considering buying K tecs side exit exhaust and turbo pipe system. It will be used for road use. Will this increase bhp if I go for the full 2.5"" system and will it pass the mot. I've also got a bizarre problem with my turbo. GTtuning tuned it to boost up to 17psi and the needle went all the way to the max point on the standard turbo gauge but now the needle isn't going all the way to the absolute maximum. No signs of leakage, no strange noises just a lack of power. I've been told it could be the actuator but this was replaced along with the turbo (which is now GTtuning hybrid) about a year and a half ago. Answer: An exhaust will only increase bhp if the one it replaces was restricting the flow of exhaust gasses. I know the GTT standard exhaust is quite restricted due to the small bore pipe and restrictive design of the front box. The rear box gives little or no gain over standard so you may only see a small gain by fitting the side exit. However it will mean the gasses exit the car quicker due to the shorter run to the side of the car. To summerise...... It should increase power at least a bit and i expect it sounds pretty awesome as most side exits do! As for the power loss, i would also suggest the actuator is weakening or the diaphram has a small split in it. If it is rebuildable then strip it and check it out. If not, try replacing it with one from another car, set it to the same position on the gauge and see if it feels faster! |
| ID: 788 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: windscreen wipers Question: I've lost intermittent wipe. The wipers will work on both continuous slow and fast settings though. I've checked the fuse which has blown and when I replace and turn the wipers on it blows straight away, again. Are there any common places where this might short out or other things that could lead to this problem? Answer: Try fitting a replacement motor if you can borrow one as this seems to be the likely culprit. |
| ID: 789 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: seized up! Question: Hiya butt, how's tricks? Need some advice, how do i un seize a rear koni shocker?? or is it stuck for good? cheers mukka stu Answer: Try soaking it in WD40 for 24 hours. |
| ID: 790 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: filter flap Question: hi wizz hope you dont mind me asking loads of questions but could you please tell me how the flap is operated in the top of the air box is actuated it says in the haynes manual it is automatically operated by temperature by a waxostatic system but mine is set in the hot position there is only the flap there and nothig else inside the air box so how does this method work as it doesnt look like anything is missing thanks again..... Answer: I have never even considered taking the unit apart so i assume it works by resistance to the movement when the wax is cold and no resistance when its hot. By the sounds of it, yours isn't working. I suggest renewing the lid of the airbox with another from someone who has a cone filter or just buy a cone filter! |
| ID: 791 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Uprating Turbos Question: Hi, I have just finished building a five turbo that is very modified not only externaly but internaly, I need a turbo that is capable of running 30psi all day. i have rung all the big tuners, spoke to alot of people about the subject and it has come down to ither the F1 turbo from Gt Tuning or the roller bearing turbo from BB tuning. I dont want to spend loads of money on the car just to find that the turbo has so much lag that u cant use it on the road as it is used day to day. what do u recomend ? Answer: I have heard from a reliable source that his GT Tuning F1 turbo has quite a lot of lag where as i know the BB Tuning monster has as little lag as a standard turbo. Another option is to contact Universal turbo's and speak to Graham. He knows his stuff and could produce you a monster turbo for the sort of money you are looking to spend. |
| ID: 792 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fitting 16""s Question: Hi, I prescently am runing 15"" wheels, I do drag race my car every so often will it make a big difrence to my times & handling putting 16""s on . I have a very modified car (last time i ran it i pulled a 13.8 quater at 230 bhp), will it be like the upgrade from 13"" to 15"" or will i not notice. The other thing i was woried about is having people in the back. I do like to take my freinds out in it and dont want it catching is this just down to triming the arches. Cheers.....Chris Answer: A good indication of what to expect is the article on fitting seventeens in the article section of this site. |
| ID: 793 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Exhaust argument Question: Can u settle an argument for me please. I have a Gt tuning 2.5"" bore exhaust on my five a mate has a 2.25"" exhaust on his is there any difrence in power gain between them? I do notice mine is a lot more noisy than his does this mean mine has better flow there for slightly more power. Cheers.........Chris Answer: Depending on the type of turbo you have, the gains will be related. A small T2 turbo will get good gains from a 2 1/4"" but may not get any more from 2 1/2"". Where as a large T3 turbo may get additional power from the greater flow characteristics of the 2 1/2"" system. Noise is not directly in proportion to power but can be a good indication as to how restrictive the silencer may be. |
| ID: 794 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bottom End Rebuilds Question: Hello again, I have just rebuilt my five using Prima Forged Pistons,Total closure rings,Ballanced but not lightened bottom end,uprated shells etc. I am going to run 250 bhp on that engine whould u say its over done (eg. would i have got away with puting OE pistons and liners in with total closure rings) or does this sound about right. U see i have not run it at more than 10psi yet due to the turbo being std but in your opinion what would be a good set up for 250 bhp, as u can proberly tell i'm a DIYer and dont have a massive buget (dont want to blow it up) Cheers for all the help........Chris lee Answer: A strong bottom end is allways a good thing and too strong is going to be better than too weak. You MAY have got away with lesser componants but you may not. I take it you mean what turbo etc to use as you will never get 250 bhp with a std turbo. Try a BB Tuning MI370R, a GT Tuning F1, or similar spec turbo with either a large intercooler or charge cooler. You may need a bigger (Group A) carb and you WILL need a higher capacity fuel pump and larger jets. I assume you have at least a 2 1/4"" exhaust system and turbo cross pipe as well as a high flow air filter or cone filter. You may well need cylinder head work and maybe even a camshaft upgrade as well. 250bhp is very hard to achieve but 200bhp should be easily obtainable. Good Luck. |
| ID: 795 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Intercooler Question: Hi there, Running at 18psi on standard strapped and flowed intercooler - Would you recommend double capacity or single alloy intercooler? Cheers Answer: Single is capable and double is too! Its your money. You could allways try a charge cooler. |
| ID: 796 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cup mod bleed valve prob. Question: Lo, I just did the cup mod to me mota and now the bleed valve has stopped workin. I changed all the hoses to 6mm silicon and blocked up all the relevent hoses. There r no leaks from any of the hoses and brand new jube clips were used, I haven't heard of the cup mod interfering with the bleed valve system so any help would b most grateful Thanx Answer: Try removing the bleed valve and blowing it through with high pressure air. |
| ID: 797 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ECU Vacuum advance unit Question: I managed to snap the plastic nipple that the pipe connects to on the Vacuum advance unit. The haynes manual says the Vacuum unit cannot be removed from the ignition module without breaking the fine wire inside. Is there anyone who can repair it or do i have to buy another ECU complete?????? The ECU is the phase 1 type, mounted in the engine bay above the Turbo Best regards Answer: You are best off getting a replacement unit from a breaker if you cannot super glue the bit back on. You can use a Renix 208 or 209 unit on your car. Try Rachel Head or Europarts as both usually have them in stock. |
| ID: 798 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: cruising Question: Wiz where are the best southend cruise spots Answer: Depends on the night but GT Turbos have been known to hang out near the casino. |
| ID: 799 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dodgy steering Question: hi wiz, i have a bit of a problem with my 5 turbo. Everything was fine with my until i got it in yesterday and started to drive it. the steering felt very vague and light. so i pulled over and u can actually move the steering wheel a good few inches until there is any response at the wheels, it just feels like the steering wheel is not connected to the steering column for a few seconds then it engages???? this makes it very hard to drive in a straight line because of the lack of control,have u got any ideas cos i have had enough of zig-zagging down the road!!! cheers Liam. Answer: Sounds very much like a knackered steering joint or track rod end. It could be the steering rack itself. Get it sorted as soon as possible at a proper garage if you are not sure yourself. |
| ID: 800 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Which exhaust Question: Hi wiz, could you tell me if a magnex system is quieter than a scorpion 4" Answer: can the magnex be made with the 4"" tail |
| ID: 801 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dreaded Door Hinges Question: Hi wiz, Could you please tell me the best way to cure the problem , i have tried swapping the pins but the wear seems to be in the hinge itself. In a previous question you said drill a 8mm hole and get 8mm pins(from where), but it looks a bitch of a job because the hole is so close to the door ,the chuck of the drill stopping drilling in line.Please help and keep up the excellent work. Answer: To drill the holes in the hinges you will need either a right angle headed drill or a flexible drill extension. The pins are just 8mm roll pins available for a few pence from any good acessory shop or consumables supplier (nuts and bolts seller!) The holes in the door need to be slightly smaller than 8mm so there is a tight fit and the pin must be free to turn in the hinge without too much slack which will cause the door to drop again. |
| ID: 802 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Dump valve positions Question: Ay up great one, Wiz can i lose sum dreaded lag by fitting 2 or 3 dumps, at the moment i've got a group A dump .Looking at gt tunings car would it be better with 2 side by side or 1 in usuall place (inter/carb) and 1 in between (turbo/inter) or as the gt tuning car with 3 ,or is it all a waste of doe. Answer: Differences of opinion have arisen from the various tuners, although... You can fit twin dump valves side by side easier as you need less pipework and only one ""T"" piece. Releasing pressure from near the carb where the initial build up is will produce the largest amount of noise from the valves. I know other people have used two or more dump valves in seperate places like BB Tuning with there charge and intercoolers, Bruce Hockley with his Large front cooler has one before and one after the intercooler and GT Tuning have various valves dotted around there considerable cybercooler pipework. One thing for sure, the diaphrams seem to last longer the more valves you have. |
| ID: 803 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: release bearing Question: on the output shaft from the bellhousing there is a steel sleve which the release bearing slides on. my one has broken and i was wondering what sort of a job it was to replace it would this need the gearbox stripping or could it be done from inside the bellhousing. there is no engine in the car Answer: I have never heard of this happening before so do not have a definate answer but from the diagram in the Haynes manual the sleeve fits on the outside so should be easy to replace without stripping the box. |
| ID: 804 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bearings Question: I have a loud droning noise from my front wheel bearings, it's time to change them. Can you give me any info on this job to make it a bit easier than it sounds in the haynes manuel. Thanks mate, ben Answer: You WILL need a high capacity press to remove the old and refit the new bearings to the hubs. Remove the hub assembly as per the Haynes manual and take the bits to a garage to press them in for you. |
| ID: 805 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bigger Rad Question: I plan to use my car for track days and sprints next year and will run approx. 160/170 bhp. Will a copper rad be up to the job? (separate oil cooler fitted) or will overheating still be a problem? Intercooler will be uprated also, but would the big Pace Alloy rad fit with the intercooler in the standard position? or is this for use with chargecoolers only? Thanks Tom Answer: As long as your cooling system is in A1 condition then a copper rad will do the job. If you intend to fit a new rad and not just one you already have, try getting a new alloy rad made up to fit the gap without the built in oil cooler as this will be even better due to its increased capacity. Try speaking to pace about their rad. |
| ID: 806 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Warming up too quick Question: Wiz, I've got an E reg GT which I've had for 6 months now and drove once. I've put a grp A head gasket on and had the head skimmed as I bought it with blown head gasket for a bargain. The car is still off the road as it is awaiting a respray. I hope to be in it in a couple of weeks. The problem is that when I start it - at least twice a week to keep it free'd up (and coz I love the sound of devil & dump!) - the temp rises right to the top within 7 minutes and the fan only then cuts in when the temp warning light comes on. What do you think I should look for? (a new car isn't an option.) Answer: I would suggest removing and testing the thermostsat. It could be opening way too late. or Just fit a low temp thermostat anyway. |
| ID: 807 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoking Question: Wiz mate, After starting the car I drive down the road sometimes and when I let my foot off the accelerator a load of blue smoke comes from the exhaust.....and I mean a lot sometimes. This also happens when I start the car and drive it first thing on a morning. This sometimes happens after I have ran the car for a bit, switched it off then start it up again. Do I have to wait a bit longer for it to warm up before I drive my car? Answer: It sounds to me like you have either leaking valve stem seals or a worn turbo. Easy way to tell which is knackered is to remove the turbo to intercooler pipe and look for oil. A little is probably ok but loads probably means your turbo has popped its clogs. If there is no oil then it is almost certainly your valve seals. |
| ID: 808 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 50mm Lowering Springs Question: Hi Wiz, I've just bought some 50mm lowering springs to replace the set of 35's I've got on my car at the moment. I'm not sure how much difference it's going to make so do you think I will need to get hold of some shocks as well or will it be ok to just fit the springs as they are?? Cheers Wiz Answer: If your shocks are in good condition then they might be fine but uprated would be better. |
| ID: 809 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: make a chage Question: hello there,i was thinking of changing my std turbo to a stage 1 hybrid.how easy is this?(according to the haynes book its easy,or would it be worth paying craig at tts hard cash?) thanks for your time!!!!!ken Answer: A few spanners and a couple of hours should see you right but i will say one thing, Try undoing the oil feed pipe first as these are prone to seizing and make the job a hundred times worse. |
| ID: 810 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Avon Question: Hi wiz type bloke :) I'm looking at getting some rubber for the motor, 195/45/15. I've had had a price of £55 each for Avon Z v1 's all in, the thing is some people swear by Avon, some say they are cr&p !! are they suited for use on the 5Gt ? could you recomend any other brand/model in this price range ? Cheers mate Kingscott Answer: Tyres are a personal preference but Avon are a quality make. You could try Khumo's or Toyo's. |
| ID: 811 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: More pooower! Question: Wiz, be my saviour. (again) I've got 500 notes in my pocket, the engines boosted up to 14psi, (Phase 1 conversion) alloy intercooler, jetex filter, dump valve, side exit, copper rad. Question is, where do I go from here? Nitrous is tempting, but strengthening the engine, the fitting and insurance is gonna kill me. What do you think? Plus, will the engine need any adjustment to run on Super/Optimax? On LRP at the moment, but gonna change after so many bad stories. Also, now the engines just gone over 90k, is a rebuild with a reputable tuner best done now before my power search goes on? Any idea how much I`d be looking at as well? Cheers, I`ll buy you a brew next time I see ya. Thank again Answer: I think that you need to consider if you want to risk a blowup or if you want more power now. I would recommend a rebuild and uprated fuel pump before any major mods but you will spend more than £500 on a good rebuild because you will just have to fit a modified head (and cam?) as well as new pistons/liners and bearings etc. :-) You could always just up the boost to 18psi for now (before getting a hybrid) and get a full rolling road tuneup to be safe. The choice as they say is yours. |