| ID: 812 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Next engine mod/s Question: Long-time listener, first time caller! Uprgrades on my car = a flowed std intercooler, prima exhaust, green air filter, and running 13psi the engine is putting out 143bhp/150ftlb. Since the head has been skimmed the engine pink's when the boost is raised above 13psi. How can I get round this problem of low boost/high compression since 'other' people are running 18psi on the same mod's. How do I get 180bhp (Since that would be nice!) Answer: How brave do you feel? You have two cheap and one expensive option. 1) Cheapest- Make an adjustable timing sensor (see below) and retard ignition slightly. 2) Cheapish- Purchase and fit adjustable timing sensor and retard ignition timing slightly. 3) Expensive- Remove cylinder head and get it gasflowed and the chambers enlarged to correct compression ratio, refit and enjoy more power! You may need bigger jets in the carb too, get it rolling roaded to be sure. To get 180bhp you are looking at an alloy intercooler, carb mods, hybrid turbo uprated fuel pump and maybe more mods. |
| ID: 813 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Pistons Question: Hi Wiz. At what bhp does the std oe pistons give up? or is it more luck (good ones and bad) Is forged pistons more bullet proof or is it all down to how its set up. Cheers......Chris Answer: Standard pistons have been used in the DD Autosport car which holds the Drag record for a GTT and produces somewhere around 250-300bhp with 40 psi of boost available. They are fine as long as the car is set up correctly and not pinking. |
| ID: 814 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: not a pot?????????? Question: Wiz, i'm confused, my car has started making scary noises, for example i was coming home the other day and there was a whirring noise, coming from what seemed to be under the bonnet, i told me dad who drove it and said it was fine, which it was, very strange. Now today on the way to work fine, but on the way home as i braked wiv clutch in it was making a grinding noise , and i having trouble getting gears occasionaly, is it time for a new clutch or is the gearbox shagged, a answer would be much appreciated!!!! Answer: Try renewing gearbox oil to the correct level and make sure the clutch can be fully depressed ie no mats blocking its movement. |
| ID: 815 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Smoking Question: Over the past few weeks, when my car has been idling or, when I drop it thru the gears to slow down (junctions etc...) blue smoke has been beginning to plum out. It doesn't do this all the time tho, only on occasions. A mechanic has taken a look at it and said that the pipes etc... around the turbo were thick with oil. He's cleaned these out for me and taken it for test drives and it now seems OK. However, I'm worried that it will begin to happen again. Any ideas as to what could be going on, I'm worried that it's the turbo on the way out as forking out £500 would really break my achy breaky heart : ( Answer: If the pipes do refill with oil then it is probably the turbo seals but if it stays clean it could be the valve stem oil seals. |
| ID: 816 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Just rebuilt Question: Wiz i have just rebuilt my engine including a racing cam lightended balanced bottom end and and newer GRP N clutch, The only problem is the battery light is staying on but every thing seems to be fine, I don't think it's the alternator, also this bloody car goes proper quick like S*&£ off a ..... Anyway but the car seems to have a lot more lag in the turbo than before but once it gets to 3000 rpm its neck strap time!!! but not a lot of response before. do you think it's worth getting the engine re-tuned? Also my anti perc fan is not working but the fan itself I have tested and know works, what could this be and where are the problem areas!! Starting to get depressed!!!!! Answer: Right i will start with the perc fan, look for the relay and in line fuse as either of these can cause problems. Battery light staying on will be either loose alternator belt, knackered alternator or shorted out wiring on the light. As for the lag, it could be the cam is miss timed, the exhaust back pressure is now too low and the turbo takes its time to catch up. What cam is it and have you had your cylinder head or manifolds flowed? |
| ID: 817 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: WONT START Question: My car has been running fine with no probs and starts perfectly first time. As of today it will not start. Engine turns over on starting motor no problem but no go, does not fire up or cough just nothing. Have checked all the plugs and leads and everything seems ok. Have checked the timing sensor as well and the plug from it and all is connected, any ideas? P.s I have not run out of fuel either!!!!!!!! Answer: You say the plugs and leads are fine so i am assuming you mean there is a spark at the plugs. This leads me too think the fuel is not getting through so try removing the fuel pipe from the carb, hold it over a container and turn the engine over. This will rule out the fuel side if it flows freely. |
| ID: 818 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Tuning Question: I've manged to find buy and remove a 1.7 lump out of a volvo 440,It's done 70.000 miles. I've already got another head which will be gettin re-worked, I want to know how much it will roughly cost to get the bottom end lightened and balanced I.E crank,new piston rings,lighter flywheel etc.. What sort of gain will I achieve with this? Will the combination of the cylinder head work and the bottom end offer massive increases in power???.I thought about a high lift cam as well but I heard that they run crap at the bottom end? Also my 5 seems sit sit up at the back. It's ben lowered but seems a bit high I wanna drop it another spline or so, how many MM drop is one spline??At the moment it's running on 15's and does catch every so often if I have a full car will spax rear dampers help? or will it cause the car to under steer on the back end going round R'abouts???Will I have to ditch the back passengers, I thought about stripping the rear end out any way so save a little bit of weight!! Cheers Pal!!!!! Answer: I take it your car is a GTX or similar not a GTT?????? Prices for the work you require are best got from an engine modifier/ remanufacturer. The lightening will help response and the balancing will help smoothness. The cylinder head will release power and a cam will help it maybe 20-30 bhp or more. As for lowering the torsion bar, each spline is about 20mm or so. Shocks will help but your problem might be weak torsion bars. I say ditch the passengers and the rear seats and whack in a roll cage! |
| ID: 819 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Part throttle good, Full throttle bad!? Question: I have noticed that when driving, my car seems to accelerate better with the throttle half open. When I put my toe to the floor, the car seems to slow down and judder a little. I notice this most when overtaking on the motorway in fifth, and it doesn't seem any better until I get to high revs. Do you have any suggestions as to what I should look at first? Answer: If your car is uprated and using 20psi or more you need an uprated fuel pump. Then again it could just be a blocked fuel filter, so try renewing it first. |
| ID: 820 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: New Clutch Question: I'm about to get a new clutch fitted to my car and am going to go for a group 'n'. The only thing is every tuning company has their own and the prices vary considerably. Do you know what the differences are and which would you recommend? Also while the engine is out what would be a good idea to upgrade? I'm already thinking of camshaft/flywheel/engine mounts but was wondering if there's anything else. Cheers for any help. Answer: Just save yourself the hassle and go to your local parts place, buy a volvo 440/480 turbo clutch as this is the uprated item for a 5GT. You could go for some cylinder head work as well. |
| ID: 821 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: adjust Question: wiz;how do i turn my boost up as i need more power. Answer: Shorten the turbo actuator rod a few turns, and see how that feels. If your engine is standard don't take the boost past the first third of the shaded area on the standard boost gauge. |
| ID: 822 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: FLICKER Question: WIZ AS I GIVE MY CAR BOOST MY ALTERNATOR FLICKERS.IS MY ALTERNATOR DODGY. Answer: Check the tension and condition of your fan belt, renew if necessary. If this is fine get the alternator output checked. |
| ID: 823 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: HESITATION Question: wiz when i start to bring up the power my car hesitates for a second or two before its off. what is the cause is it my actuator maybe sticky? Answer: Sounds like turbo lag to me! Could be a weak actuator spring if you didn't have this problem before without having changed any parts. What turbo and actuator do you have? |
| ID: 824 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Boost Question: I have a std turbo, with the following mods: UPRATED HEAD GASKET UPRATED HEADBOLTS UPRATED OIL SEALS NEW PISTONS/LINERS NEW PISTON RINGS UPRATED CLUTCH INDUCTION KIT GRP A D/V IN CAR ADJUSTABALE BOOST When I use the adj boost, the maximum pressure I get is 14psi, and I will not go any further. I have dis-contected the two wires on the boost hose, and tried increasing the boost, but still reading 14psi. What is stopping the boost being increased further? Finally what is the maximum boost I can run on my car before something goes pop, I was thinking about 18-20psi, can this be achieved on a std turbo? Cheers Vinesh Answer: I think you may have a faulty actuator or a restrictor set to limit the boost. Try removing the pipe from the actuator and for a brief second drive the car flat out. You should get loads more boost but you could blow your engine if you do it for more than a fraction of a second. If you do get loads of boost then you have a restrictor problem, if you don't then you have an actuator or turbo problem. Remember try this at your own peril it will go pop if you keep full throttle for more than a split second. A standard turbo is capable of 20+psi but goes pop very quickly with more than 16-18psi. Go for a hybrid if you want to have this kind of boost for more than a short period. |
| ID: 825 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Backfire Question: How much should a standard R5 backfire when slowing down? when slowing down without braking, mine tends to backfire quite a lot - reasonably loud little pops, but no big bangs. Wondered if it was normal or not. Answer: Shouldn't really hear any real backfiring on a std car, unless the exhaust is a freeflowing type rather than std. |
| ID: 826 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Shagged Suspension Question: Afternoon Whizzo. I've finally had enough of getting sea sick in me 5, due to fact that the shocks r bolloxed, so it's time to replace them. Naturally i'm gonna lower it at the same time, about 50mm on a pair of PI springs, wot i need to know is what would be the best sort of shox to use? Do i go for OE ones? Would they up to the job? Uprated one's and whichs ones at that? and wots the gag with the Clio 16V shox, as i've heard of people using these? Is it going to be a mission to reset the torsion bar also? And just to make things worse it's a phase 1. Cheers gez Turbo Nick Answer: If you want a more controlled ride then uprated shocks are a must. Use a good quality shock like Koni as they are the mutts nutts. The clio rear shocks can be used on a heavily lowered 5 as they are shorter. Torsion bar should be easy enough if you coat it with plenty of penetrating oil for a few days before lowering it to free any rust. |
| ID: 827 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Shifters Question: Alright Wizard, my latest problem is that I am wondering how you can transfer a GT Tuning quick shift gear do dah from one car to another. It was already fitted to a mates car and we cannot get the beggar off ! And also, when he bought the car, it had standard seats in, but the material was blue and red and have a cobra seats badge on - were they probably re-trims or factory made? Oh is it possible for a clutch to give up at in the space of a gear change. It had had no slip, burning smell and was not being drivne fast at all - its uprated and gave up the ghost without warning ! Or could it be something else ? Thanks as always, Rikxter ! Answer: Try asking GT Tuning about there quickshift gear do dah! Cobra seats could be retrims or aftermarket items. Yes a clutch can fail instantly if it collapses internally but it is more likely a cable problem. |
| ID: 828 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Where can i find them? Question: Do you know a good second hand alloy wheel dealers? I am after a set of fifteens and am struggling to find a decent second hand set at a decent price. also will 16s fit if i lower the car about 40 mm Answer: Try the sales and wants section of the site or even the breakers listed in the contacts section. Yes but you may need to do a bit of arch fettling. |
| ID: 829 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: TWIN HEADLIGHTS Question: Wiz I need to replace the round 'lamp units' in my Morette twin headlights. I both the large and slightly smaller one. Any idea where I can get these units. If not will it pass the MOT with black rusty patches on the reflectors? Also have you any advice on fitting, as the Guy I bought them of had totally butchered them for some reson and bits r missing. Any help would be appreciated. Chris Answer: Try contacting morette themselves or any of their dealerships for replacement lights. Fitting is quite simple, just drill the holes required and bolt in. |
| ID: 830 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Oil cooler Question: Wiz, Ive managed to get hold of a oil cooler size 6""x9"" ,the problem is were ever i put it in the bumper its in front of the radiator ,partly covering it .Would the heat from the cooler effect the radiator?or not .Plus there is no stat for the cooler it just connects to the original piping back to under the oil filter with stainless piping.Are the oil cooler gains worth bothering about? your assistance would be very appreciated Answer: I suggest you spend the approximate sum of £17 and get a stat for the cooler from Demon Tweeks. Mount it as far from the rad as possible but a little coverage won't hurt. The oil cooler will allow the oil to be cooled seperately to the water so it will not transfer extra heat to the rad like the standard built in cooler does. This means the water temp will reduce remarkably. |
| ID: 831 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Optimax Fuel? Question: Hey Turbo Wizard! I'm really confused to whether Shell's optimax is good or bad to use in an R5! I've been using it and do 'sometimes' experience performance gains. But is the R5 able to deal with optimax fuel without affecting the engine? Thanx Rixx Answer: As long as you don't get pinking then Optimax is going to be fine to use. |
| ID: 832 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine Mounts Question: Hi Mr Turbo Wizard, I'm going to be shortly replacing my engine mounts as my engine tends to want to jump out the engine bay everytime I put my foot down. What I want to know is this an easy task as the haynes manual says a Jack and a couple of blocks of wood and away you go. can the rear gearbox mount be changed leaning into the engine bay and can the fronts be changed by just removing the wheels or am I required o get under the car. Thanks in advance :) Answer: It is possible to do from the top but easier to do if you can get the car raised off the ground. The job itself is just as easy as the manual says. |
| ID: 833 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Need a bit more power.. Question: Hi Wiz, is there much else I can do to my car, without sepnding out on a hybrid or cam, I have the usual done, in-car adjustable boost, induction kit, magnex, dump valve, leads&plugs, copper rad, carb jetted, running about 14psi. My car runs fine, but There's always room for improvement, what power could I hope to make? Cheers. Answer: I would suggest fitting an alloy intercooler or charge cooler, upping the boost to 16-18psi and getting the car rolling roaded to make sure the fuelling is correct. This could release up to about 160bhp. |
| ID: 834 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: TURBO Question: Wiz you said that i may have a weak turbo actuator and you wanted to know what turbo i have. well its standard. Answer: It could well be a worn actuator then. Can you get a working turbo and actuator off someone else? If not you could try getting a new actuator and fitting it to your turbo. |
| ID: 835 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Electric Windows Question: Hi Wiz, Can you think of a way to make the windows go up and down on one push of the button instead of holding the little git down(like the new fangled cars) you may think i'm lazy but it would be trick... Many Thanks Steve Keating Answer: Try using a ""hold on"" switch from one of these cars that the windows are automatic on! |
| ID: 836 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engines Question: Hi wiz. I'm after building another engine, i would love to do it all myself so i have been hunting for a second hand engine. I have come across a mark 1 five gt turbo engine out of a damaged 60000 mile car what i would like to know is block head etc the same or have they changed them. I will be completely rebuilding it any if they are diffrent i will get a mark 2 engine. Cheers Answer: As far as I know the engines are almost exactly the same with only minor differences. The Ignition module is one of the main differences along with the cooling system. The engine itself is a straight swop. |
| ID: 837 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: engine set up Question: I have just got a five and thought it was a good idea to put it on the rollers and get it set up. Before i did this i put on a pipercross air filter and heat shield. The car come out with 130 bhp at standard one bar of boost and at 1.4 bar it had 150 bhp. After this i took it for a drive and found that the car juddering when i put my foot down after taking it off and also it would not accelerate unless i had my foot half way down and then fully down. I then put my standard air filter back on and the car was much better, is there something wrong like carb or fuel filter or did they just not set it up properley and charged me eighty quid for nothing. Thanks Answer: To start with, the standard boost is about 0.6- 0.7 bar or about inline with the B or O of TURBO on the std boost gauge, so your car must of had the boost turned up previously. It sounds to me like a lack of fuel getting to the engine. Fit a new fuel filter if you do not know when it was last changed. Did the tuner fit larger jets? For that sort of boost pressure you would need a larger main jet and different air corrector as well. i.e. 135 main/90 Air corrector. I would take the car back to the tuner or a garage to get the jet sisizes checked before refitting the pipercross air filter. |
| ID: 838 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Gears keep on sticking Question: Hello wizard, Just recently bought GT Turbo and I'm well impressed. Two problems that funnyly enough have occurred after I purchased. 1) My gears seem to work fine, but i took it work on the M42 for 25miles normal congestion no problem. as i went to park the reverse gear crunched badly but still went in thought i didn't press the clutch down far enough. An hour later took the car out the 1st and second gear seemed to be stiff, after about a mile or two first became impossible to get in then the same with second. So left it in second and drove home. Got someone to look at it they changed the transmission oil and the clutch cable as the wrong one had been fitted. Once again took it to work and the same thing again fine at the start then after some congestion the gears stiffen. Any ideas?? 2) Seem to have a bad leak coming from the side of the engine thought it might be the sump so change the sump unit seal. Still got the leak seem to be coming from the crank shaft another seal gone?? Answer: If the clutch cable is not a genuine Renault one then it will cause problems. If it is genuine then you may need the revised clutch pedal quadrant from Renault. The oil leak is most likely to be either the timing cover or the crankshaft oil seal. They are a little awkward to get to with the engine in the car but it is possible to do. Try steaming the area clean and running the car to see where the oil comes from. |
| ID: 839 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Cars back firing Question: Just had a full service done. Was advised that the sparks was that old i was only getting a weak spark on one of the cylinders. Had new ones fitted now the car feels worse it jumps, feels like it about to stall at idle and keeps back firing but not loud. Putting it into Prima for a rolling road tune will this sort it out? Answer: A crypton tuner will be enough to check the plugs, leads etc but you would be better getting a rolling road tune if you can. Did they fit the correct plugs? Is your car running more than standard boost? If so then you may need a better plug like the NGK Racing plugs which come in a red box rather than the normal plugs. |
| ID: 840 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Hard to start in the morning Question: Hi wizard, When trying to start my car in the morning it turns over but does not seem to fire. After trying for five minutes it fires but its difficult Any ideas Answer: Do you have and use the choke to start the car? Some 5's don't like the choke, others won't start without it. Also could be related to incorrect plug gaps, and leads, fuel filter or other componants being worn. |
| ID: 841 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: STILL OVERFUELLING Question: Hi wiz, I still have the problem with sooty plugs, I put another main jet in my car like you said and I have new leads on already (exept for the main coil lead).And I can still smell petrol at hi revs. Could the problem be fuel pump related? I have another problem too now but dont know if its related, I ran out petrol the other day (I think) so I pushed it into the garage and put petrol in. It still wouldnt fire up after that, the starter turns but not firing. I checked the spark from the coil lead and there was a tiny blue spark for a few seconds then it died, could this be the lead problem or the actual coil itself?. Ive been told this could be why the plugs get sooted cos it isnt sparking properly, what do you reckon. thanks for your help in advance wiz and hope I didnt banter on to much :) BATMAN Answer: If your spark is weak for any reason then it may affect your combustion process resulting in unburnt fuel. I recommend fitting a new King lead and if it is still no good then try an ignition unit from another car. Also check the relay near the heater intake under the bonnet catch as this controlls power to the ignition module. |