| ID: 722 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Jumping out of 2nd Question: Whilst in 2nd gear, if I put my foot down causing the engine to rock , it will jump out of gear. This has a nasty effect whilst doing a roundabout, loosing traction and heading for the nearest hedge (if lucky). I have been told that this is due to a cracked casing? It is OK in all other gears.....What do you think????? ..........MattyB.......... Answer: It is the common sign of a cracked casing but it could be down to engine movement due to worn mounts or poorly adjusted linkage so i would check these before shelling out for a new gearbox. |
| ID: 723 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: fan switch shorting out Question: Hi Wizard, Recently wired up a manual fan switch, which worked fine for a couple of days. Then suddenly the temp sensing fan switch did not cut in when hot, and I noticed my switch had gone soft, ie. burnt out, and did not work. Under the bonnet I saw one of the wires had melted to my rad fan switch, when all was connected again, the sensor did not work even though there was 12V across the 2 points. Replaced the switch and it has now done it again after two journeys!! Any ideas or known problems? Cheers, Dan :-) Answer: Sounds like an excess of current is running through the wire. Is there a relay in the system or has it been bridged? I would also try checking the alternator output with a voltmeter. It should be about 13.4 volts. |
| ID: 724 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: STIFF CREAKING STEERING WHEEL Question: Wiz, My steering wheel is creaking and squeaking and feels quite stiff. I had this problem badly a year ago and had a re-con rack and new power steering pump. It was a bit better but I felt the problem was never solved. Although it has always been there over the last year its getting worse again. Could it be the dash? Please help Answer: It sounds like your steering column universal joints are knackered. Try replacing them before a new rack as they are not too expensive. |
| ID: 725 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: together again Question: Should i skim the head before i replace it with a group a gasket or will it be ok,thanks for your help ben Answer: Get the head checked for flatness and skimmed if necessary. |
| ID: 726 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Carb jets, filter and exhaust. Question: When I bought my car, the person I bought it off said the boost hadn't been turned up, but that the jets had been ""uprated"" to 135's because of it having a Piper X filter, dump valve and a Scorpion exhaust fitted. Considering the uprated spec, my car seems to lack performance, and uses a lot of fuel. What size jets do you think would be appropriate for a car of this spec? Cheers.. Answer: Standard 120 or 125 main jet would save you fuel and not run lean at standard boost. or Just turn the boost up to about 14-16psi and enjoy the extra performance although fuel consumption will be the same! |
| ID: 727 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Turbo sticking Question: I'm 99% sure my turbo is sticking as it's not as power full as it should be and when you put your footdown in 4th or 5th it only goes 3/4 of the way on the gauge where it should go all the way as I've had the boost adjusted is there anything I can do to stop it sticking Answer: It sounds like it could be a weak actuator but i suppose it could be a sticking turbo. If the turbo is sticking it will be quite stiff to turn by hand. Remove the inlet ""U"" bend and move the blades with your finger. (Engine off of course!) If it is stiff then you could try spraying carb cleaner into the turbo with the engine at normal running temperature to try and remove the carbon buildup on the bearings. This is caused by the turbo being too hot when the engine is turned off, ie lack of run down. If this doesn't work then it may need to be rebuilt to run properly. |
| ID: 728 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: squeaking noise Question: I came back from a run today, and the left hand wheel is squeaking like mad when I turn on full lock and when driving over bumps. I sprayed sum WD40 on but it seems to have made it worse. I wondered if it was the bush at the top of the spring...or my damper..? Any ideas? thanks Answer: Where exactly did you spray the WD40? It could be the bearing at the top of the strut, the damper, or either of the ball joints. Other possibilities include the wheel bearing or drive shaft. Try taking it to a garage that has a ramp and get them to inspect it as these noises are oftern hard to find. |
| ID: 729 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Five stud/ Big brake conversion Question: iv'e seen some wheels that i really like but iv'e just found out they are only available in 5 stud! i noticed at Maxpower that the carisma 5 had five stud wheels. where can i get the conversion kit? also i want to get bigger discs on the front, do u know where i can get the 'big brake conversion kit' from? Answer: Your best bet is to speak to Carisma and ask them! |
| ID: 730 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: rad fan switch, Relay prob? Question: Wizard, With ref to the last question I posted, rad fan switch shorting, I have not removed the relay so it is still there. Could it be faulty? Which is causing too much current? Or is it normally a case of it either working or not working?? I have been advised to replace the relay by others, is it the one located behind the grill splash guard? Cheers, Dan :-) Answer: These relays get all sorts of problems due to water ingress. Try renewing it and see how you go! Yes it is the one behind the grill splash panel. |
| ID: 731 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bits missing! Question: Hi wiz, I've been trying to find a decent example of that moulded plastic liner that covers the battery etc under the bonnet. I've exhausted all my local scrappy's so where can I get a good one without having to line my local reno dealers pockets with a bootload of cash? Cheers Fitz Answer: That part is about £7 from Renault and allways looks better than a second hand one! |
| ID: 732 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: don Question: After trax 2001 0-60 testing i broke my circlips on my gearbox, this is a job that usually requires the gearbox to be removed and costs about £240+. I took it to a friend and specialist and he did it, still on the car for £150 the job can be done guys and save you a £100 or more, don't let these garages take your money for nothing!!! Plus you get the car back 3 hrs later!! My symptoms were : Getting stuck in 5th at first Then the gear stick would jump in 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th when you take your foot off the accelerator, sometimes right out of gear! thought you might like to know if you didn't already Answer: Thanks for the tip Richard. I hope it saves someone from overspending!!!!!!!! |
| ID: 733 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: new to the club! Question: Dearest Wiz, ive noticed that if i look into my engine bay from the passenger side, i can see a lose pipe facing me from under the carb. is this a 'breather' pipe??? thats what ive been told! excuse my ignorance and keep up the good advice! cheers laddo! Nathan Answer: The pipe coming from the passenger side of the carb is an overflow type pipe. If fuel is coming out of this pipe then you have a split diaphram in the carb that needs to be replaced. This pipe should lead down the front of the engine away from the hot areas like the turbo and exhaust manifold. |
| ID: 734 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Ticking over on 3 pistons?!?! Question: Me again, got a funny problem today, when i start my car it starts like its only running on 3 pistons, but when she's revved a little it sounds fine, then on tickover i can take piston no3 spark plug lead off and the car will still run steady. whats all that about then? But when the car has warmed up it ticks over mint. One thing i noticed is that when i checked the spark plugs they were very black and coked up, could this be my problem as i'm currently running a 135 jet on a standard carb and turbo setup. Is she running to rich? but i get no black smoke out of the exhaust. help, cos it sounds bunk when she's started up. :-( Cheers Stu Answer: Sounds very much to me like you have either a dodgy plug or lead on number 3 cylinder. Easy way to check is to swop no.3 lead with one of the others and see if the problem moves with it. If not, then it is the plug. |
| ID: 735 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT? Question: MY CLUTCH PEDAL ON MY MONACO IS RIGHT AT THE TOP,AND DOES NOT LIKE TO SET OFF. HOW DO I ADJUST IT? ON THE CABLE I CAN SEE NO THREADS, IS THIS GOOD? CHEERS.. Answer: The cable is automatically adjusted by a spring loaded quadrant on the pedal. If the clutch is too high then either the cable is stretched or the clutch itself is worn. ALLWAYS use a genuine Renault clutch cable as cheaper ones are known to not fit correctly. If this doesn't cure the problem then you need a new clutch. |
| ID: 736 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Fitting 16""s Question: I want to fit 16""s with 195/45 tyres. How low can i go on the front without problems. Would i need one or two notches on the torsion bar. I want it low but not stupidly. I heard ABP motorsport springs are good?? Will i need arch or bumper work. Answer: The easiest thing to do is follow the fitting guide on this site for 17""s. Obviously you will be able to go slightly lower with 16""s. |
| ID: 737 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: ECU Question: Is it possible to use a ecu from a f reg car on a older car(86) Thanks ben Answer: The short answer is YES! The long answer is YYYEEESSSSS!!!!! |
| ID: 738 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Bad Boy Bonnet Question: Can you please tell me who sells the Bad Boy style bonnet? And also where can i get uprated carb jets suitable for 14-16 PSI boost, do Renault sell them? Answer: The bad boy bonnet look is a job that any decent welder/bodyshop can do for you. I think Carisma were selling them but am not sure. Std jets may work with 14-16psi but you would be safer with a 130 ish jet. Jet sizes are directly related to mm drill size, ie 130 jet = 1.3mm drill bit. Best bet is to get the car and jetting set up on a rolling road. It may look expensive at first but will save you loads of fuel in the long run. |
| ID: 739 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Clicking Question: I get a noise when I brake from the rear of my car, it's like a clicking which varies according to speed, it does it when I apply the brake pedal and also when I pull up the handbrake so it happens when pressure is applied to the disks. could it be a bearing? is there anyway I could test to see if it is? Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers Dave :-) Answer: Jack up the rear wheel, handbrake off, and shake the wheel. Any movement will show up. A loose bearing may be adjusted until you can afford to replace it. Bearings should be renewed with the rear discs as you can warp the disc when fitting the bearing which is a pressed fit. It could also be related to a warped disc but this usually shows up as a vibration through the seat of your pants! |
| ID: 740 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Engine rebuild Question: Hi there My H reg gtt has, 83,000 miles on the clock most of them towed, (only joking) I am soon to come across an engine out of a G reg GTT with 94,000 miles on it, the bloke who has it reconds the engine is dead (can't moan when its free). I want to rebuild this engine from scratch myself and eventually drop it into my motor. What do you recomend I replace during the rebuild on an engine with 94,000 miles ? and can you recomend anyone who can sort me out with the parts needed for a fair price ? Answer: If the pistons and liners are ok then just replace the rings and liner seals. Also, all gaskets, seals and bearings as well as timing chain, tensioner, oil pump and water pump. Obviously replace any other parts that are worn or damaged like push rods or cam/followers. Try looking in the spares/breakers section of the site or try GSF (formally known as Andyspares) |
| ID: 741 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Crunchy Box Question: Now then Wizard My cluch cable snapped at the top of the pedel, which my dealer tells me is a common fault. They sorted me out with a new cable and self adjusting mech (the modifyed version). Also I have recently changed my gearbox oil. When I start up the car (cold) it seams to change gear no problem, as soon as i make it have it the gearbox starts to ""Lock up"" what can be the problem? the clutch pedel bites very close to the bottom of the stroke and the clutch never slips, Is my gearbox on the way out (i have a slight whine) ??? Hope you can help ! Kingscott Answer: I would suggest renewing the gearbox oil at the correct level and see if this helps. |
| ID: 742 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Single port modification Question: Hello me again I saw this modification on ""Alex's gt turbo web site"" it involves getting rid of the original actuator air supply system and having one pipe comming straight from the carb to the front port of the actuator and leaving the other port open ??? this is supposed to reduce the amout of boost you loose between gear change and is supposed to increase responce. Would you advise this ? would it shorten the life of my billet actuator ? Answer: Yes I would recommend it as it means there is less air needed to fill the boost circuit so you get better response. You will need to block the hole in the back of the turbo elbow (M10?) and block the outlet on the carb top. It will not effect the actuators life but it may reduce your boost slightly so it will need to be adjusted to suit. |
| ID: 743 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: 285 brake conversion Question: i am about to fit my new bits ,but roughly how much do you adjust the rear limiting valve(ballpark)mm or threads ps...the clips on a rear spoiler do not come seperate from reno,so i had to make a new one.!! Answer: The amount of adjustment will depend entirely on how low the car is and how heavy it is at the rear. |
| ID: 744 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Rolling Road and CO level at MOT Question: Hi Wiz. Just got my MOT, it passed (yippee), but the Mech told me that my CO level was only 0.3 where it should be about 1 + or - 0.5. (its low but what does that mean? not enough feul??) Just had my head gasket replaced, I take it da mota needs a tune?? Phoned up my local rolling road in South Harrow and he told me that they dont tune fives anymore (...shock...horror...) cos they have had some nasty experiences with em!! They squeezed 158 brake at the fly out of me mota about 2 years ago. Do you know of any Rolling Rds near/in the London Area, who do work on fives?? Thanks Munish Answer: Set the CO at about 2-2.5% for smoother tickover and low speed pickup. Low % means less fuel on tickover. Car shouldn't need a tune after head gasket unless it needed a tune before! Sorry I do not know any rolling roads in your area but you could try BB Tuning or Europarts as both these tuners have there own rolling roads. |
| ID: 745 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: drops of water Question: hi wizz after some heavy rain there was a few drops of water in the interior light/map reading light facia could this be down to a leaky sunroof seal or from around the aerial there is no moisture around the sunroof on the inside cheers again ... nick Answer: It could be either of these things. Remove the roof consol, remove and reseal the aerial and see if this cures the problem. A little silicon sealant should do the job nicely. |
| ID: 746 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Water dripping from Exhaust Question: Hi Wizard, I have just replaced my water pump and have now noticed water dripping from my exhaust and alot more smoke than usual (water vapour). Could it be the new pump gasket has split in the middle or is it not related to the water pump? Any ideas? Cheers, Dan. Answer: There is no way that the water pump will effect water coming out of the exhaust. Water is produced in the combustion process of the engine and is usually dissipated as steam. Sometimes the steam condenses into water and drips out of the exhaust. If you get massive clouds of steam after an initial warm up of the engine then i would suspect head gasket failure or even a cracked head/liner. But if the majority of water goes then i would suggest it is just condensation and not a problem. Give the car a good long run out to really warm it up and see how things go. |
| ID: 747 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Charge Cooler Question: How's it going Wizard? My five has reached the point where more power is hard to come by, as all the mods have been done. All thats left is getting a charge cooler so that I can turn the boost up, but keep it reliable. Basically what I wanted to ask you is: Is it worth purchasing a charge cooler at this time of year because the weather is getting colder anyway and I've heard they could freeze the carb during winter (an interior switch will be fitted to turn it on off)? Answer: As long as you don't get pinking at the boost you are using then a chargecooler is unneccessary. Do you have un uprated intercooler? If so then it should be fine for winter. |
| ID: 748 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Steering Question: hey Mr Wiz, Having issues with my steering! When steering left or right my steering can become very heavy! It only happens when im turning and when i straighten out the steering is fine! Whats the prob? Cheers Wiz, Nick Answer: Check the steering balljoints and universal joints on the steering column for seizure. |
| ID: 749 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: inserting the engine Question: Hey Wiz, I have a problem, I am restoring a 5 and have stripped it completely, The shell will be resprayed etc, Now the question to ask is putting the engine back in, what we are thinking is bolt the engine and box to the sub frame and lower the shell over the engine, otherwise dropping it in we might scratch the shiny new paint! is this possible considering the steering rack etc should need to be bolted to the sub frame as well or will we hit any other problems, basically we want to do it the easiest and safest way! Cheers whizzy wiz Answer: You can do it from the top or bottom of the engine bay. I would suggest just lowering the engine in with an engine crane available from any good hire shop for about £15-20 per day. You can protect the paintwork by leaving as many bits off the engine as possible until after it is fitted, ie manifolds or pulleys, and then padding any protruding pieces with foam or cardboard to prevent scratches. I have never seen anyone remove the subframe to fit an engine and it may lead to other problems with alignment etc. Let me know how you get on. |
| ID: 750 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: less boost Question: hi wizz I know you can adjust the actuator arm for more boost is it possible to go the other way on the arm for less boost (motorway driving) thanks again Answer: To a point yes! |
| ID: 751 | Date: Archive | Member: Archive | Wizard: Archive |
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Subject: Brackets for coolant pipes??? and GT Tuning heatshield Question: Me again!!!! boy am i glad i joined the club, heaps of info I have two brackets which i cannot seem to find a place to mount the first one is a straight metal bracket with and engled end, it has 2 bolt holes and several pipe/hose supports on the end. Can you tell me where this mounts? I assume that it supports at least one of the coolant hoses which connect to the heater matrix as these are dangling over the turbo downpipe. Also are these coolant hoses supposed to be routed under the carb and over the inlet manifold? I also have a GT Tuning turbo heatsheild with a long alloy bracket, where does the heatsheild mount?, i know which way the heatsheild mounts. But cannot seem to see where the two bolt fixings of the turbo heatsheild attach. I think the alloy bracket bolts onto the gearbox but i am not sure!! and what about the other end? Hope i have worded the description well enough Answer: Starting with the heatshield, The bracket does indeed bolt to the gearbox on a hole that is already threaded, but may be filled with dirt, if you haven't cleaned it out. The other mounting is bolted through the top angle of the heatshield to the standard heatshield bracket attached to the passenger side of the cylinder head. I take it there were no instructions with the heatshield? The heater matrix pipes run around the outside of the engine bay not across the carb or manifold. One goes round by the brake servo where there is a clip and round to the bulkhead where there is another clip or two. The second, runs around from the heater to the header tank, again held to the bulkhead and side of the car with clips. I think the angled bracket you mention is the one that holds the turbo actuator pipes, corresct me if i am wrong but this bolts to the side of the head as well. |