| ID: 7659 | Date: 17/09/13 | Member: beast | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: R5 1.4 campus Question: hello i have got a R5 campus and im doing a f7p conversion i got the engine and most the bits but was gonna use the R5 box for now to get it up and running. but i need to replace the clutch what clutch do i get one for the campus or a turbo one or one for the F7p? ive been told it will all marry up and fit is this right? also what flywheel? All your help much appreciated thanks Ryan Answer: you will need to use the f7p flywheel and clutch. should be all ok :) |
| ID: 7660 | Date: 18/09/13 | Member: Matty smith | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Speedo Question: My speedo doesn't read anything at all when the car is moving All the other gauges are working fine now lol Any ideas needles not bent outwards or anything like that as I've checked Cheers Matt Answer: try squeezing the circular metal connections in the join in the middle of the wire - that is attached to the passenger side shock tower. |
| ID: 7661 | Date: 18/09/13 | Member: Matty smith | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Not getting to full boost Question: My car doesn't seem to get full boost The dash gauge will only go to about 1/3 of the way up the scale and the dump valve of something else seems to release pressure after 1/3 boost any ideas please as it doing my head in cheers Matt Answer: you need to plumb in a proper boost gauge and see what its actually reading - the std gauge could be faulty after 25years..... |
| ID: 7662 | Date: 18/09/13 | Member: Matty smith | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Vacuum / boost plumbing Question: Where can I find a plan of the boost/vacuum hoses please as I'm sure mines not plumbed correctly Answer: http://www.rtoc.org/files/Renault%20Diaolgy/Renault%205/Engine/Fuel%20and%20Exhaust/1120M037_1.png |
| ID: 7666 | Date: 21/09/13 | Member: pugsnotdrugs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: sorry I know its not a turbo need help with a clio climate control Question: Hi thanks for the advive on my turbo pressure ive got a mechanical gauge coming,really need some help with a digital climate control on 52 plate clio all lights up but no blowers theres a wire with 2 pins and a blue multi plug hanging in the dash cant find where they go really need the heater working... Answer: don't you need to check the fan resistor first? |
| ID: 7665 | Date: 21/09/13 | Member: PROCKY123 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: unsure of pipe on turbo Question: Hi , just got a replacement garrett turbo (2nd hand) and its got all normal t2 pipe connections but its a bigger turbo and has what looks like a vacuum/actuator on side of exit with a small pipe connector on (looks like a vacuum pipe size) . Could you please enlighten me on what it is and where i connect it to please , thanks Paul Answer: are you sure its not a t25 off a rover tomcat?- they have a recirculating dumpvalve built into the compressor housing.... |
| ID: 7668 | Date: 24/09/13 | Member: Matty smith | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Battery Question: The battery on my car is hot and fuming when the car is running any ideas please as this worries me some what Answer: you need to buy a voltmeter. the alternator should be putting out 13.5 - 14.5volts. any higher and your battery will be boiling - you will need a new regulator or alternator. |
| ID: 7670 | Date: 24/09/13 | Member: GordonB | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Oil grades Question: Hi Wiz, long time no magic. Got some fully synth 0W-40 Mobil1 that i was contemplating using in my c1j. Whats your thoughts? Also have some really cheapy semi-synth 5W-30 that i was hoping to use for a 100 miles before putting some decent oil in. Crazy plan, or nay problems? Cheers Answer: 0w40 is too thin, even 5w30 is too thin. run it in with cheap semi synth 10w40. then buy either 15w50 or 10w60 fully synth. |
| ID: 7671 | Date: 28/09/13 | Member: jose | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: stage 2 cam shaft Question: i'v brought a DIY GTT Stage 2 (P020b)and gt tuning say this product is similar to the 285 cam shift and i wish to get the maxium power out of it but not sure on the deg it should be set at, i'm not sure if it should be set at 110 deg or 112 deg or if it should be a little higher or lower? Answer: just set it at 112 degree for max lift. pretty much all gtt cams are designed to run at this timing. |
| ID: 7672 | Date: 02/10/13 | Member: Manparis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: breather hoses Question: hi wiz just changed all my water and breather hoses for red silcon ones. now the car is ok water wise it heats up and the fian kicks in when it should. but it idles like crap. really lumpy and stutteres when you press acccel pedal. wasn't doing this before the pipe install so im lost as to what it is. breather hoses are connected up properly because iv had my mates along side. is there any restrictors needed or pipe diameter problems that im not seeing? Answer: yep, two restrictors. from the inlet manifold to the t piece there is a 1.7mm restrictor. from the t piece to the turbo inlet there is a 7mm restrictor. |
| ID: 7674 | Date: 07/10/13 | Member: PROCKY123 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: white smoke Question: Hi , tried 3 different turbos and each one smokes ALOT after boost , it's good when boosting but as soon as i take my foot off gas it dumps loads of white smoke out , thought it was the turbos but now thinking i may have piped something wrong or maybe missed off a non return valve , as the turbo I've just tried ran perfect on a car last week , any ideas , thanx Paul Answer: are you sure it's not headgasket or anythign silly like that? - check you have correctly connected the breathers up, as a blockage there will definately cause smoking. are you waiting till the exhaust has got rid of all its condensation - i.e the exhaust is hot? - might something as silly as that.... |
| ID: 7675 | Date: 16/10/13 | Member: R5gttDJ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Afr rich on light throttle Question: Hi, I am in the process of setting up my cars carb I am nearly there for fuelling at wot, however when I am cruising even with the slightest throttle the afr's drop to 10 and stay there and it's only when I boost they increase to the 12 mark I can't work out why it would be doing this its a standard carb and Venturi I have only changed the Ac jet so far It's at 14psi manifold and a 100 main is giving me around 12.5 afr wot It's just the richness at light throttle that's confusing me Thanks Answer: at light throttle does your boost gauge hover around the 0 mark? - ie its coming out of vacuum, just on the verge of boost starting to build? if so, then it will be your enrichment circuit. probably the 1st stage enricher - the removable jet - OE its a 100 - make sure yours is and hasnt been swaaped to a 125 - same size as the air corrector jet.... |
| ID: 7676 | Date: 25/10/13 | Member: Manparis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: -blank- Question: Have fully serviced my car not 100% it was doing it before but I a have a stutter when the accelorator pedal it pressed. It only does it when it comes off idle. Is fine whilst driving and changing gear it's just when you pull off . If you rev it from idle it does it as well. it is fine when over 1500 revs. Could it be fuel based or electrical. As I said the plugs ,ht leads, dissy cap and arm, replaced with all good quality parts. Carb hasn't been tampered with and is still setup from what Ian at euro parts did for me years ago. Car only does 500 miles a year at the most so carb should ok. Any ideas ? Answer: it will be the accelerator pump jet. take the carb top off and see if its squirting fuel down the middle of the carb when u press the accelerator. - its the little bend brass finger shaped jet.... they like to clog up or the diaphram that pushes fuel through it likes to split. |
| ID: 7677 | Date: 05/11/13 | Member: Higgy82 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Revs fluctuating when idling Question: Hi wiz My cars been off the road for winter and garaged. Last weekend I changed the suspension for coilovers and it's been sat outside for a week. I've just been out to turn it over and let it run for 10min Before putting it back in the garage when the revs starting going all over the place even though I wasn't touching the throttle the engine note did not change either. The car is standard and recently added a boost gauge. Any ideas? Cheers Answer: is that with the choke on or choke off? where did you T into to fit the boost gauge. if you take the carb top off and look inside the carb as its idling, do you see fuel dripping onto the brass plate? |
| ID: 7678 | Date: 08/11/13 | Member: VALE46 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: engine bay relays Question: how many different relays are there in the engine bay? and are they all the same relays? I have bought a genuine relay which is a 5 terminal one with 25amp stamped on it. Just want to make sure I source the right ones... Answer: i think they are all the same. off the top of my head there are the following: scuttle panel = aei/ignition modeule power relay passenger side wing = horn relay front panel - by alternator = rad fan power relay drivers side wing = anti perc fan wiring. |
| ID: 7679 | Date: 30/11/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Spark Plug Gap Question: Hello Again Wizard, hope you are well. I think you know my car set up as you virtually built it for me online over the summer !!! Thank you It's really really uneconomical. Don't get me wrong I have an idea what to expect. I can get my Clio 182 to do up to 35 mpg and would not expect the same with this 5. But even mild mannered driving is poor. Taking out the plugs show a very heavy wettish black residue. they are new iridium plugs set at Renault recommended spacing 0.75mm I seem to recall. Is this ok? If OK then any other thoughts. It boosts well but could be a little more responsive at lower revs before boost, I realise it is a bigger turbo and not the T2 I remember from days of yore ! Very grateful for your thoughts. Also is one of those things you plug in to a spark plug cylinder and watch lovely colour changes any good at all even for a basic look at things? Many thanks again. Ian Answer: you need to fit a wide band lambda sensor and gauge. - and see what the engine/carb is doing. sounds to me as though the main jet or 1st stage enricher is too big. |
| ID: 7680 | Date: 30/11/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Lowering For Better Roadholding Question: Hi Wizard Again ! I've just got the original shocks and coils front and rear. New 15'' alloys and new Toyo Proxes. When pushing the car a bit I do feel the car could hold the road better and be feeling a bit stiffer. My 182 doesn't hold the road so well but feels stiffer. Now I can see on the site about lowering the front maybe 5mm with say Koni or Apex coil springs and associated shocks and I can see the pics on how to hammer out the rod to lower the rear. I'm bound to have a problem doing this on the rear so I wondered weather if fitting Gaz adjustable rear shocks would allow me to slightly lower the car while negating this rod removal process. I know it's probably a naive question thus requiring a simple click in your experienced brain ! Many thanks again Ian Answer: you have to remove the rear torsion bars rto lower the rear of a gtt.... unless you fit spacers where the rear arm attaches to the chassis so the wgo back axle hinges upwards slightly, but that really is a bodge! |
| ID: 7682 | Date: 05/12/13 | Member: Matty smith | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Re dodgy speedo Question: I have a clio 172 on a 2002 plate it has 76k miles on the clock But for some reason the speedo stops working randomly it also affects the milometer the mpg etc is this a common fault And any ideas how to fix it please Answer: not sure is its a common fault, although id be thinking you have a dodgy earth or feed wire from the gearbox to the back of the clocks..... |
| ID: 7683 | Date: 08/12/13 | Member: Hammer | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Removal of Standard Bodykit Question: Hi, Is there a step-by-step guide anywhere on the removal of the phase 2 standard bodykit, considering I am a complete novice? Thank you Answer: Not really. Common sense is order if the day. That and hoping an idiotic bodyshop hasn't stuck them on with sikaflex/tigerseal. The bumpers have to come off first, then the side skirts, by drilling the rivets out and lifting them upwards. Then the arches can be removed via the 10mm nuts behind the arches.... |
| ID: 7684 | Date: 08/12/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: suspension Question: Thank you for your reply about this question. There is a nice pair of Gaz adjustable new rear shocks on E-bay (£100) and wondered weather lowering the rear by taking out the torsion bar and fitting these then say Koni or Apex shocks and springs would be a good idea both cost wise and handling wise ? Many thanks again Ian Ps are you open over the Festive Period ? Answer: The rear shocks will only work with the torsion bar. Unless you make rear shock towers you will not be able to run springs as well as dampers. |
| ID: 7685 | Date: 31/12/13 | Member: Tower | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: ignition problem Question: hello. I have had no problems with my 5 for ages. Ive been driving it almost every day without any problems. Went to turn her over one morning and nothing. All electrics are working ie lights, windows, dash etc but when i turn the key nothing. Ive checked the battery with a detector and it at 12.4 volts so its not that(plus its only 2 month old). Ive spoke to some folk about checking the starter for a white wire but cant seem to get to it. Do you have to get to it from under the car or is it accesable from the top. cheers Neil Answer: the white wire is accessible from the top. you reach under the exhaust manifold and can feel the starter motor connections. - there should be a spade connection with the white wire attached, next to the 13mm nut ( holding the bigger wires on) to be honest its rare they they just fall off. what is more likely is that your starter motor is starting to stick. |
| ID: 7686 | Date: 07/01/14 | Member: Tower | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: ignition prob 2 Question: Hi again. Sorry being a total dumb ass. Is it easier to get in behind the carb or is there an easier way to get to starter. There are alot of pipes and the manifold heat shield is in the way. Will i have to take heat shield off? Guys are like it only takes a couple of minutes to check wire but im struggling to get to it let alone see where the wires are. Any tips? Cheers wiz Answer: AHH, YOU STILL HAVE THE MANIFOLD HEAT SHIELD ON..... you need to remove it, then you can kind of see/ feel the wires in question. most people leave the manifold heat shield off, or fit a smaller modified version just over the turbo. |
| ID: 7673 | Date: 09/01/14 | Member: Hubert | Wizard: Mart |
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Subject: 15x8 wheels Question: Hi I would like to fit 15x8 wheels , what offset would I need ? Answer: Around ET35 is the norm', but with 8" wheels it'll need to be a fair bit less than that. |
| ID: 7687 | Date: 18/01/14 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Front bumping/engine rocking on deceleration Question: Hi Wizard, Hope you can help. When the car is cold and on choke and bit jerky in the morning there is a loud bumping from somewhere in front of me that I can feel. It also happens if I am accelerating and then quickly let go of the accelerator. It feels like the whole engine in front/below me moving ! Other than this no other problems with ride or handling. It sounds and feels serious though. Any thoughts? Ian Answer: you need to jack the engine up and see if you have any engine mounts that have broken. failing that, check that the exhaust downpipe isn't banging on the steerin rack. if you have the front ball and socket movement restrictor still bolted to the gearbox bellhousing,then the rubber can fail and that can knock too. the top hat mounts in the struts can also knock when moving on and off the throttle too. |
| ID: 7688 | Date: 18/01/14 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Speedo and i-phones ?! Question: Hi wizard Here's a strange one for you or any others. Car has been running great after works on it with all your help over the summer and have covered over 1300 miles in the past 2 weeks without any problem. I was using my i-phone as a sat nav and sat it to the left of the steering wheel over where the switches are for rear window wiper etc. While doing this I noticed 2 things: 1) The phone got really hot a which made me notice that the plastic area over the switches got really hot ? 2) Apart from the speedo sticking a bit at around 60 70 (need to check if it's touching something)I noticed it would also intermittently bounce around from 0 to 70 which it never did before. However if the phone is removed from the dash this doesn't happen. i've tried it a few times over different days and sure enough if the phone is placed on the dash with the sat nav on it starts again, remove it and it stops !!! I would very much appreciate your thoughts on the 2 things. Many thanks Ian Answer: is the heater on full? - maybe the ducting under the dash has come adrift and is blowing hot air to the back of the switches? - failing that, maybe you need new switches if they are getting hot on their own. I think it might be coincidence that the speedo jiggles around. - try looking at the round connecter attached to the passenger side shock tower - it has 3 pins in it, you need to squeeze one half together to make the connection. or you could try cleaning the speedo connector. |
| ID: 7689 | Date: 18/01/14 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Short Shift Gear Lever Question: Hello Wizard I have a B+M Quick shift which feels really heavy. I think it would help if it centered itself but was told you do not have the spring with them. Is this true or can I fit a centering spring? Also it feels really low down and I remember the original as always feeling comfortable to reach so does the short shift lever make really much difference otherwise I might go back to the original plus I liked the original gear knob feel ! Many thanks Ian Answer: to use a phrase.... " get that shit off your car now " I've never been a fan to be honest, I tried one out years ago and made it feel 'orrible. the self centering spring on the gtt goes from the floorpan, to the rod. - the spring on the Volvo 480/440 and never Renaults fits onto the gearbox, where the rod joins the box. |
| ID: 7690 | Date: 18/01/14 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fuel pump Question: hi wiz, im rebuilding my trackcar m going to run 20psi i have t25 afr meter etc is the phase1 fuelpump up to the Job is it uprated Answer: the phase 1 should be up to the job. but if its 2nd had it will have 25years worth of use..... so best just get a new 3bar one. |
| ID: 7691 | Date: 25/01/14 | Member: Keller | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: oil gauge Question: hi wizard how do you wire a aftermarket oil gauge in any dargrams please help Answer: it depends if you have a mechanical or an electric type. mechanical - you have to fit the T piece above the one way valve in the turbo oil feed. then you run the tub into the cabin and connect it to the gauge. electrical - remove the standard oil pressure sensor from the bottom of the turbo oil feed and fit the unit that came with the kit you've got. - then run your own wire from the connector at the bottom of it to the gauge inside the cabin. no diagrams unfortunately :( |
| ID: 7693 | Date: 11/02/14 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Loud Steering Noise When Slow Turning Question: Hi Wizard I hope you are well and can help Car has been going great covering many miles recently. Drove 155 miles down M1 on Friday at good speed with many pot hole hits. On Saturday I found when turning right slowly into drive there was a very loud 'clack clack clack clack' noise from drivers side wheel area. I've looked and cannot see anything catching but when I raised the car the wheel did not want to rotate. I've driven it another 155 miles tonight and had the same clack clack noise at the petrol station but also noticed that the steering is initially wobbly at very slow speed but at motorway speed it feels fine and handles almost as well as ever except for some pulling from side to side a little when foot down boosting at speed on the motorway. I know I was foolish to drive it that far but have to get to work. I was thinking at first something catching the 15'' wheels, then wheel bearing, then CV joint/driveshaft + - Hub then top mount but now steering component. The noise is loud and like you've turned the wheel too far so that its hitting something making this metallic clacking sound. You can also feel it vibrating under your right foot when it does it. Also could it be related to my last post (not yet sorted) regarding the noise/clonking from right side bottom engine area when suddenly taking your foot off at low speed (5-25 mph)or when jerking from cold with choke on? Sorry it's a long question but wanted you to get a good symptom history for best diagnosis. Many thanks ian Answer: if it goes clack clack clack on full lock, then it stands a good chance that its the CV joint. - pop the gaitor off, and twist the shaft left and right - there should be no play in the actual joint itself. - it may just need greasing up. failing that - check that the bottom ball joint and track rod end are still ok! |
| ID: 7694 | Date: 10/03/14 | Member: Keller | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Car not running great Question: Hi how do you set the the idel screw the big brass one as my car blowing black smoke misfireing thanks Answer: you are talking bout the idle jet - you cannot 'set' it up. they are generally one size on the gt turbo. there is an idle mixture screw underneath it then may require turning clockwise to lean the mixture out. - however.... misfiring and black smoke suggest to me that you've either got a compression problem or sparking issue. - check your compression, and check your spark plugs and leads. |