| ID: 7596 | Date: 02/05/13 | Member: Venturi | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: New Turbo with rebuild? Question: Hello Wizard, Im looking to have my engine rebuilt so it can push 200bhp and have opted for a new Hybrid roller bearing turbo to reach this feat. Ive been told that im best off waiting until the new engine parts (285 cam etc) have `bedded in` before I buy the new turbo as all the crap will be in the oil and ruin the new turbo. Is this true? I would ask the engine rebuilder but suspect they wont want to miss out on me spending 900 quid on a new turbo from them. Thanks for time. Answer: yep... the swarf will definately screw up the new turbo. run a shit turbo with a turbo oil feed filter on it. you'll be shocked what crap gets caught in the filter! |
| ID: 7597 | Date: 07/05/13 | Member: brad | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Carb fuel and engine hunting Question: Hi i have a problem with my engine hunting and using an lot of fuel and under big load puffing out black smoke done an emmissions test and its reading 9.5 checked all vacum hoses air leaks rebuilt the carb and still have same problem even with the mixture screw all the way in any help would be very good thanks. Answer: what size main jet have you got in the carb? |
| ID: 7598 | Date: 08/05/13 | Member: brad | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Carb fuel and engine hunting Question: Checked the main jet and its standard size did notice fuel runing down throat of the carb stoped that and its still hunting useing lots of fuel? Answer: sounds like some thing is wrong with your carb. - is the float chamber jet closing properly..... only way really is to speak to your area rep and see if they have a spare working carb they could try on ur car.... |
| ID: 7599 | Date: 11/05/13 | Member: VALE46 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: ENGINE LOOM Question: Do you know the part number for the main engine loom? I think they are still available from renault? Answer: i think they are still available from renault, although i thought gt-turbo-spares.co.uk was cheaper? |
| ID: 7601 | Date: 25/05/13 | Member: adgtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Misfire Question: I have developed a misfire and have changed all spark plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm, spark leads and renix and now it won't run the two plugs on the driver side of the dizzy are wet and the others are getting very sooty Answer: you need to check your compression and your tappets. then get back to me with the results. |
| ID: 7600 | Date: 29/05/13 | Member: Raider1983 | Wizard: Mart |
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Subject: Oe choke clip Question: Hi new to this site does anybody have the oe choke clip part number please. Regards Ian Answer: 77 03 076 099 Or Mike @ gt-turbo-spares.co.uk should also be able to help. |
| ID: 7602 | Date: 03/06/13 | Member: Richy Baby | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Do I need a dumpvalve Question: hi there do I need or should I fit a dumpvalve its a tuned engine about 15-18 psi all uprated ? Or is it ok with the waste gate flutter? Many thanks Answer: which turbo are you running? |
| ID: 7603 | Date: 04/06/13 | Member: safehands | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: snapped hinge on tail gate. Question: can you help explain the removal of the tailgate.the hinge on the passenger side has snapped leaving one part attached to the car and one part attacjed to the tailgate.is their an easy way to do this or will i need a whole new tailgate? thanks Answer: you can remove the one part from the body by undoing the nuts under the plastic cover. i can't remember if you can remove the bit on the actual tailgate though. might be worth welding the bits back together off the car - saves getting a tailgate/ rear of the car sprayed up? |
| ID: 7604 | Date: 08/06/13 | Member: Venturi | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Forged pistons & con rods, unnecessary? Question: Hello Wiz & thanks for your help previously. I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine so that it can tolerate 200bhp. Despite the extra cost, I was going to use forged pistons & con-rods to achieve this, rather than use the standard replacements. Some self proclaimed experts have suggested I need not even replace the old conrods. Do you feel the standard new pistons and old conrods will tolerate these extra stresses over time? Thanks once again. Answer: standard pistons and conrods will certainly be ok for 200bhp. They are usually ok for 230bhp too.... Its been done too many times by too many people to be considered 'bunkum'. One thing though - you must get your fuelling set up correctly. |
| ID: 7605 | Date: 08/06/13 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: knocking bottom end Question: Hi Wiz, I am getting a strange noise from my bottom end:-) Just got the car and still running in as it should have had a new engine fitted by previous owner. Its a knocking noise when you rev the engine which comes and goes? Could it be to do with the valve clearances as these need adjusting? It has a piper 285 fitted also, I have done a comp check and its 145psi on all 4 was originally a bb tuning low comp engine. What could this be? Its more of a knocking noise that can be heard over the tappets. Cheers Answer: have you whipped the sump off yet and actually checked the big end bearings? - its not hard to do - you'll be able to see what the bearings are doing. |
| ID: 7606 | Date: 09/06/13 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: knocking bottom end 2 Question: Hi Wiz, what should I be looking for when I get the sump off? Thanks Answer: any bits of metal in the sump. - then when you take off the big end bearing caps - MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT MIX THEM UP! look at the shell thats in there. - when they go in, they are flat and smooth to the touch ( you shouldnt even touch them apparently!) - yours will probably have more hills than the Alps! |
| ID: 7607 | Date: 17/06/13 | Member: VALE46 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: OIL FILTER Question: Do you know the part number of the genuine Renault oil filter?? My local main dealer says they are no longer available??? Answer: GSF SELL THEM AS 120RE0011 - THIS IS A LS590 PURFLUX UNIT - WHICH RENAULT SELL. |
| ID: 7609 | Date: 23/06/13 | Member: Richy Baby | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Speedo Question: Hi wiz I wondered if u could help as my speedo only reads upto 60mph no more . Many thanks Answer: take the clocks out the dash, unclip the plastic front cover and bend the needle downwards slightly. i'd guess its hitting the clear plastic and stopping it going past 60mph ;) |
| ID: 7610 | Date: 05/07/13 | Member: r17antony | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Fuego Turbo ? Fueling AFM readings Question: Engine is running a mild cam , std T3 , 10psi boost , std 32DIS Carb , would the std carb be ok for this set up and what sort of AFM readings should I be looking for ? Idle is 13.5 ish . Do have a fueling fault as its running lean when you floor it ( of the gauge !! ) and misfires , going to pull it and give it a clean Answer: i would probably increase the main jet slightly, as the 120 jet is for a 1397cc car, not a 1600cc engine. try a 130main first of all. Does the car stutter if you stamp on the pedal i.e the engine dips first then revs.... if so it could well be a blocked or partially block acceleration jet. - the brass tube that is bent over the edge of the venturi that squirts down the centre of the carb. |
| ID: 7611 | Date: 07/07/13 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: phase 1 and phase 2 turbos Question: Hello Wizard, can you fit a water cooled turbo from a phase 2 onto a phase 1? And visa versa?? Cheers! Answer: i've seen phase 1 turbo onto a phase 2 car- you end up joining the water connections together to bypass the turbo. the ph2 turbo is designed to work with water cooling, and the ph1 water hoses are probably a bit rare to start cutting up to put water feeds to the turbo on them :( |
| ID: 7613 | Date: 14/07/13 | Member: Stederz | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: timing distributor Question: Hello i have recently brought a rebuilt engine but it had no distributor or the small timing cog that you fit the distributor too. I have a new cog to drop in and the distributor but dont know what position the slit on the cog should be facing i have got the engine to tdc i was wondering what i do now any help would be appreciated cheers. Answer: looking at the front of the engine. fat side of the segmented timing cog is to the right, drop it in 8 and 2 oclock, it should twist round as it meshes with the cam so it lies 12 and 6 oclock. |
| ID: 7614 | Date: 17/07/13 | Member: Matty smith | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Gear box removal Question: What's the best way to remove and replace a gear box I'm planning on doing this on my drive way I have a fair amount of tools and what not but no hoist Do I need to remove the engine and box or can I do it without removing the engine ? Answer: easiest way is to remove the engine and box together. the problem you have is that the gearbox cannot clear the inner wing, unless you drop the subrame on the side. if you do manage to clear the wing, then you can wrestle it out OK. |
| ID: 7615 | Date: 25/07/13 | Member: Matty smith | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Speedo Question: My speedo works fine up to about 25 mph then it's a guess as to what speed I'm going after that any ideas what's causing this problem cheers Matt Answer: check that the needle isnt bent uowards and as it moves its not touching the plastic in front of the clocks |
| ID: 7617 | Date: 25/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Pesky door pins Question: Hi Wizard I really cannot get the old type door pins out there such an angle to get at plus when the door is off i need to re drill at a bad angle. Please help Ian of slitwrist Ps from many months ago, yes you were spot on it was the turbo downpipe but so hard to find it though! (any sealant for the joint or just tighten like hell as I did?) Many thanks Answer: you can buy a door pin removal kit, that just about get into the gap. - id soak the whole area in penetraing fluid everyday for about a week first. - even then you may need abit of heat and larger hammer! on the exhaust i use standard exhaust paste..... |
| ID: 7618 | Date: 25/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: door linkage Question: Hi Wizard that little plastic/nylon clip that holds the rod in place so the door opens with the outside handle has broken. Any ideas for a permanent home fix? Im sure you know this one well! Regards and thank you ian Answer: the problem is that its a specially shaped bit of plastic. - could you not go down the scrap yard and get one off a clio or summat? - i bet they are the same shape....? |
| ID: 7619 | Date: 25/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: radiator thermostat connections Question: Sorry Wizard it's me again! Sounds stupid to most i'm sure but does it matter which way round the two radiator thermostat leads are plugged into the said thermo temp guage in the radiator? Really many thanks I'm working night and day while off work to get so many things sorted. I love it !! Ian Answer: the rad stat only turns on the rad fan - it doesnt matter which way round the wires go. the temp gauge on the clocks is controlled by the sensor at the back end of the waterpump..... - if you get the wires the wrong way round on that, then the gauge remains stuck to the bottom of the gauge when you turn the car on. |
| ID: 7620 | Date: 26/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Oil Pressure Guage Question: Hello Wizard, me again. The oil pressure guage on the dash goes up then down but normally stays down ( I've tried viagra but it still only rises rarely and only for a few seconds). Do i just need to change the thermostat in the engine block initially? Many thanks again Ian ps the rad thermo works great now steadily rising to boiling point so I'm cutting the viagra dosage by way of a lower temp thermo before any accidents!! Answer: when you turn the ignition on, the oil pressure gauge actually shows the depth of the oil first. it then drops and shows pressure. you may need a new oil pressure sender - which is attached to the bottom of the turbo oil feed at the front of the block |
| ID: 7621 | Date: 26/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Compressions revisited ! Question: Hello Wizard again! I hope I'm not becoming troublesome but just want to sort things while I'm off work. What comments would you make on the following left to right,done twice,engine a little cool: 150 155 150 170 ? Really so many thanks Ian Ps bought some cobalt drills for those hinge pins let you know if that works if not I'll get my other half to sit on them or yell at them that should rattle them a bit! Answer: either 3 are a little low, or one is a little high... - although i would wait till the engine is properly cold before you do the compression test.... |
| ID: 7622 | Date: 26/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Please Help a Big Dipstick Question: Last one honestly Wizard ! I'm a complete dipstick! After taking all the samco hoses off There's one that I don't know where it connects to! I have a GT tuning lobster inlet elbow with 2 of thir dump valves and T25 360 turbo and GT tuning double alloy intercooler. Anyway this 1cm hose comes off the right side of the carb and I don't know where it belongs !!!!!!! Please help a novice idiot trying hard to keep the faith. Ian Answer: if it comes off the enrichment circuit, it goes no where - its a breather! |
| ID: 7623 | Date: 26/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Double Dump Valves Question: Hello Wizard Thank you for recent Wizardry it has helped invaluably! I have s/s KTech lobster carb outlet connecting to a 90 degree black rubber outlet connecting to a GT tuning s/s double dump valve connector which runs to a double capacity alloy intercooler -- i'm sure you are familiar with this set up. Anyway first dumpvalve(Bosch)from carb connects to turbo/air intake pipe via reduced connector but the second(Bosch)dumpvalve from the s/s connector does not connect up to anything on it's outlet. Is this normal? Are these piston type dump valves? I hate the sound of them - so industrial- do they make much difference to boost/power - never feels like the rose tinted smooth phooshing of yesteryear! Many thanks Ian car is coming along a treat thank you Answer: the bosch dump valves are shite. ditch them. if you must run dump valve (depending what boost you run) then I always recommend the forge diaphragm type for a satisfying 'dump' - provided your vac pipe is 3mm diameter ;) |
| ID: 7624 | Date: 26/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Battery Tray Drainage Question: Hi Wizard I've researched but no real answers! The battery tray was well rusted and looked Caput so bought a lovely s/s one. The old one was a bugger to remove with those round headed bolts. When i got it out I found it made up quarter of the car weight and was really solid such that I think I could of restored it without the hassle,time and expense but the problem was that it had a drain pipe welded to its underside. Now the question is, do I need to reconnect this in some way as I already have with some imagination or assuming this little pipe will ultimately get blocked like the back of the fridge needing regular cleaning, will a hole in the bottom of the tray just drain to somewhere safe and not cause rust somewhere later or the passengers feet to get wet? Many thanks Saviour Ian Answer: there should a be a drain underneath the battery tray make sure that is clean. you can drill holes in the battery tray if you wish..... |
| ID: 7625 | Date: 27/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Forge Dump valves Question: Hi Wizard Thanks for that answer I'll now get rid off the 2 Bocsh dump valves rather than the car or even the Mrs, but! a couple of questions about this considering the following: uprated cylinder head etc T25 360 turbo double intercooler modified lobster group A carb high lift cam pipercross induction 4 branch manifold adjustable in car boost oil cooler red carpet 1) what in car psi? 2)any particular (quiet) forge dump valves (I don't want to throw away the old Bosch and upgrade again soon)? 3)1 dump valve, 2 (as before) or 3 or none ? 4)connections ? I'm looking to get good performance. sorry to take up so much of your time and I mean it. Many thanks again Ian Answer: all gtt's have a 4 branch manifold. - 4 into 1 ;) depending on the carb set up, you could run 15-18psi. if the carb is standard id stick to 14psi. forge do a recirculating dump valve that is a lot quieter, if that is your thing. just stick with one. - you wont be running enough boost to warranty 2 or 3. just run the turbo vacuum feed to the ignition unit vaucum line. |
| ID: 7626 | Date: 27/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Under bonnet heater motor housing Question: Hello Wizard I thought I would ask a question in case you were a bit bored and nothing to do this rainy afternoon! I took the heater blade and motor out this morning to clean it,oil it and get rid of the chirping sounds,after wrapping it up to prevent water i managed to drop the whole thing in a sink of water but would you believe that after drying it out and lots of contact fluid the thing still works! Anyway, can you remove from under bonnet the casing it sits in to get properly to the refuse on the matrix cos it won't come out the two part? plastic housing) and I don't want another disaster by breaking it. Also it only has one blade connection and the other feed comes from inserting it in the inner casing, normal or not? Innumerable thanks again, I can't believe your knowledge. Ian Ps that oil temp/pressure switch is a right devil! Answer: the casing it sits in is only accessible by removing the dash and centre console :( there should be two spade connections - exactky the same as each other than fit into the slots in the plastic case - yours sounds broken or bodged. |
| ID: 7627 | Date: 28/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Fog Lights Question: Hello Wizard My fog lights work but don't look so good which I'm working on but a thought came to mind! Why not use them instead of a lower spoiler intercooler as another pair of air intakes? Any ideas or where to connect them as there is already a bonnet to pipercross intake and a double alloy under bonnet intercooler? Maybe I should just fork out on some new fogs but they are really expensive and cannot find used!? Ian Answer: http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=32795 |
| ID: 7628 | Date: 29/07/13 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Oil Pressure Gauge ? Question: Hello Wizard What is the switch right at the bottom front of the engine which when removed has a long plastic probe attached? And the swich just up from there connected in the pipe from engine to turbo oil? -- Just to make sure I know ! Many thanks Ian Answer: the bottom one is the oil depth sensor. the other is the oil pressure. |