| ID: 7532 | Date: 28/08/12 | Member: Turbo_Tambo | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Fuel sender voltage outputs Question: Hey Wizard. Bit of a long shot, but do you know what the fuel sender voltage outputs are at specific fuel levels??? ie, 10 litres = 3v, 15 litres = 6v, etc. I need to work out an equation for this sender so that i can plumb the info into my new Race Technology Dash2. Cheers Answer: personally i have no idea. however, if you take yours out - which is really easy to do, you should be able to simulate the sender being at the bottom, halfway and full, by moving the float and testing the outputs...... |
| ID: 7533 | Date: 02/09/12 | Member: Turbo_Tambo | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Old BB Tuning injection kit Question: Hey Wiz. Do you have any idea on how the old BB Tuning injector kits used to work. These were the small injectors on the inlet manifold. I can't seem to find any info on them. I remember they did a 2 or 4 injector kit and was wondering how they worked (did they turn on one at a time depending on boost levels or did each injector feed each cylinder???). Also wondered on the size of injectors used. I'm keeping my carb but am think of adding small injectors to help fuel the car at higher boost levels. I have a Greddy Rebic 3 which can be used to control upto 4 injectors. Cheers Answer: it was very basic. it consisted of a boost controlled solenoid, that then send fuel to some 'injectors' - which seemed to be just metal threaded caps with holes drilled into them - very similar to water injection jets. the 2 jet system just spread fuelling over cyl 1&2 and cyl 3&4 - by positioning the jet on the inlet manifold. personally id say you're better off with one proper injector before the carb- and control it with your greddy unit. |
| ID: 7534 | Date: 03/09/12 | Member: casper | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: 4k max revs in 3rd Question: Hi wizard,my car is standard apart from running about 12psi carb top.Not had the car long but say in 3rd gear boost comes in about 2.5 to 3k and by 4k its done and wont rev any higher.Is this normal.IV had an afr gauge on it and wot in 3rd was high elevens. Answer: take your dizzy off and check the rotor arm for excessive oxidation. there are only a few reasons why it wouldnt rev. sparking problem - tdc, rotor arm or plug related. fuel problem - youve got some hose connected wrong on the enricher circuit which is stopping fuelling at higher revs/boost. or a boost leak of some description. |
| ID: 7535 | Date: 03/09/12 | Member: casper | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: alternator light Question: Hi again wizard my alternator light is on.IV got 12.4v at the battery with the engine still and 12.2 on idle,I have 12.2 at the alternator.under load the battery does drop slightly.any ideas? Could this have something to do with my first question.thanks Answer: sounds like the alternator is shot. - or at least the regulator is. |
| ID: 7536 | Date: 04/09/12 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: To boost or not to boost? Question: Hi wiz, Im currently running 17psi and getting AFRs of around 11.6 at WOT in 4th @ 6.5k. Car pulls and drives really nice but is obviously quite rich on boost. Im on standard internals/cam/compression using an alloy intercooler and 2" scorpion exhaust system downpipe back. Im only on a stage 1 hybrid turbo though using an uprated actuator. Turbo is rated at max 20psi. Carb spec is currently 1.3main with 1.00a/c all other jets/venturi standard. My dilemma is do i play around with the carb some more (smaller main but drill out second stage) to try and bring the fuelling inline with the boost im running now? aiming for low 12s @ wot. Or do i just turn the boost up to 19psi ish to lean it off that way, by using up the extra fuel? then hope it doesnt det like mad and obviously enjoy the performance gain. Many thanks for your help. Answer: turn the boost up. :) im assuming you have an uprated fuel pump? |
| ID: 7537 | Date: 05/09/12 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: To boost or not boost 2 Question: Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah i have a bosch uprated pump and ive had a fuel pressure gauge on and get a good 4psi pressure above boost across the rev range. Just wasnt sure if a standard engine could take that boost? What AFRs should i aim for nearing 20psi. Thanks again. Answer: teh standard engine can take alot more boost than you think. - afr wise, it should be the same as if you were running 18psi or even 15psi... low to mid 12's - maybe even high 11's |
| ID: 7538 | Date: 06/09/12 | Member: brad | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Lowering Question: Hi wiz how can I lower the back end cheers Answer: have a look at this article list ;) http://www.rtoc.org/boards/forumdisplay.php?f=58 |
| ID: 7539 | Date: 08/09/12 | Member: dale williams | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Screamer pipe Question: Hi wiz is it possible to have a screamer pipe on the Renault 5 turbo std t2 cheers Answer: only if you cut a hole in the manifold and weld a pipe onto it. - then fit a wastegate onto it. - or fit a spacer between the turbo and the manifold, with a pipe off it, so you can fit the wastegate to it - but then you need to extend the oil feed and make a spacer for the exhaust cross pipe too. |
| ID: 7541 | Date: 13/09/12 | Member: dale williams | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Drive shaft Question: Hi wiz need to change the drivers side drive shaft Gater I have the old one off but there is no way the new one will go over the hub end will I have to take the drivers drive shaft off the car or is there a way of getting round this cheers Answer: you need to get an expandable boot and a boot stretcher. - you lube up the boot stretcher. then turn the boot inside out. - then warm it up in hot water. - then slide the boot up the stretcher and onto the CV joint. |
| ID: 7542 | Date: 14/09/12 | Member: adgtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Electronic Boost controller, solinoid, cup mod Question: Alrite mate I know this question gets asked a lot but I have baught a boost controller and haven't a clue how to fit it. I think the car is all piped up as a standard with the twin port actuator. Do I need to do the cup mod to put the solinoid in if so how do I pipe up the cup mod Answer: http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=12 set the cup mod as per the link. then look online for instructions on your particular model. |
| ID: 7543 | Date: 16/09/12 | Member: brad | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: tappets Question: how do i adjust my tappets the right way? cheers Answer: turn the engine with a 19mm spanner until two of the springs get compressed. then imagine a line down the centre of the head. valves 1-4 one side, valves 5-8 the other. look at the distance of the compressed valves from the imaginary line and count the same number of valves the other side of the line. - you then adjust the two sets of tappets. you then rotate for the next pair of valves opening, adjust the valves over the other side of the line. then repeat until all tappets are adjusted. btw- exhaust are 10thou of an inch, inlet are 8thou of an inch. |
| ID: 7544 | Date: 20/09/12 | Member: gttjames | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: where to buy carb jets Question: Im in need of a 90, 100 AC jet - im sure they can be had cheaper than ktec sell them for, got any links? :) thanks Answer: gt-turbo-spares.co.uk |
| ID: 7545 | Date: 04/10/12 | Member: casper | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: low exhaust Question: Hi wizard,this is probably a really silly question but here goes.My 5 has a scorpion 4inch backbox and a bms downpipe,as for the in-between I don't no.Can you put my mind at ease cos to me it just looks too low,looks like at the most there's only 3inch ground clearance,its not loose or anything.If I put a smaller tailpipe on will it lift up abit.thanks Answer: if its not loose, and rigid, then it should be ok. - im assuming the lowest point is the back box? - is ur car lowered much? |
| ID: 7546 | Date: 04/10/12 | Member: casper | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: low exhaust Question: Thanks for the reply wizard,with regards to your questions,no the lowest point is the other end not the backbox,the bms downpipe is a bit longer than the oe downpipe.what would you recommend as the best solution?thanks Answer: you cant alter the angle of the down pipe off the turbo can you. you have 3 choices then, chop a section out of the exhaust downpipe and reweld. put spacers under the rear engine mount to raise the back of the engine up, thus raising the exhaust. leave it alone and live with the scrapes. |
| ID: 7548 | Date: 11/10/12 | Member: Kingscott | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Sinking feeling Question: Hi I found that my brake pedal was slowly going to the floor when I kept pressure on the pedal at the nationals day, I run HiSpec billet 4's on the front of my GTT and found I had a large leak on one of the front piston seals. I replaced the entire set with new items and bled the system fully. On completing this I found that once again the pedal is going to the floor? So I went for the next obvious choice and replaced the master cylinder with a new item. To My horror the problem still exists, the brakes are sharp and lock up no question when hit fast, but during sustained (say 5 seconds) pressure on the pedal it can be pressed fully to the floor? The lines and callipers front to back have been checked again and again all dry and in what looks to be very good order? Any ideas what could be going on, or what could be the problem? could my rear bias valve cause any issues like this? Many thanks Adam Answer: if you pump the pedal with your engine off it should go hard and keep hard!.- keep the pressure on the pedal, and then start the car. - the pedal should drop slightly. have you thoroughly checked all the connections to the calipers, to see any leaks? - im wondering if you have a faulty new master cylinder, or servo unit? |
| ID: 7549 | Date: 11/10/12 | Member: davross | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: central locking Question: Right the green mist is near aarrhh....when i press my phob to lock doors the lock bolt goes down and then comes up a very very little, ive lubed, taken apart, ive even taking locks out and tryed on receiver it worked then. but when i put it in the door it didnt work please help before the rage comes lol. Answer: does the solenoid work when taken off the lock? sounds like a weak solenoid or a stiff locking mechanism |
| ID: 7550 | Date: 11/10/12 | Member: casper | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: airbox Question: Hi wiz,what's the flap in the top of the air box for?is it something to do with the warm air feed from the turbo?as I'm not running a thermostat in the top of the airbox should this flap be taken out,looks like its blocking the cold air feed. Answer: yes, its there to direct warm air into the engine. remove the flap if its blocking the cold air feed. make sure you dont leave the entrance of the air box that gets fed by the hot part of the engine open, else you will start sucking in hot air. |
| ID: 7551 | Date: 15/10/12 | Member: grantplastering | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Samco bleed nipples Question: Hi,I recently tried to un-tighten the bleed nipple on my radiator top hose, unfortunately it was seized and broke the seal, do you know of a way to repair it or is it now useless? Answer: i'd drill and tap it, then just put normal bolt in there, with a rubber oring on it. |
| ID: 7552 | Date: 17/10/12 | Member: dale williams | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Clutch pedel Question: Hi wiz how easy is it to adjust the clutch pedel as my one is verry hi and dus this mean I will need a new clutch because it is so hi cheers Answer: did you change the cable? if not i reckon it needs adjusting - have you tried stamping on it a few times and checked that the cable is going over the top white bit of the ratchet ok? - also check that the clutch pedal stop is still there- its a black plastic piece. - if its gone, then the pedal will be really high. |
| ID: 7553 | Date: 23/10/12 | Member: casper | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: rear quarter window catches Question: Hi wiz,just after some advice on removing the trim so I can fit new rear quarter window catches.thanks Answer: why do you need to fit new latches? - or are you just replacing the rubbers that are on the rear quarters? if you are changing the whole catch and you have to remove the rear quarter plastics, then i'd be removing the rear seats and gently trying to pull the whole panel off as one. - its been a few years since i did this, and as i remember it- tws a real pain and plenty of opportunity to crack your plastics :( |
| ID: 7554 | Date: 23/10/12 | Member: casper | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: rear quarter window catches Question: Hi wiz,everytime I close the door the window pops open,that's reason for wanting to replace the catches.thanks Answer: that does seem strange. - so you pull the window shut and you fold the latch backwards? it then pops open? |
| ID: 7556 | Date: 11/11/12 | Member: Kingscott | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Rear Bias valve Question: Hi Wiz Can the rear bias valve if faulty cause air to constantly come out my NS rear caliper when bleeding? I have no issues with the other side but I simply cant stop air comming out the NS nipple when bled. I have checked before it enters the Bias valve and I get no air from the front master cylinder. Also strangely the system has no fluid leaks whatsoever on the bias valve and no leaks on the lines. Answer: i find it very unlikely that a bias valve would allow air in, yet not show any leaks at all. - after all the fluid is very thin, and under pressure when you put your foot down - im assuming the seal on the brake piston is ok? are you sure the brake nipple isnt alowing air to leak down the edges of it, causing bubbles whe you bleed it? |
| ID: 7557 | Date: 13/11/12 | Member: Va Va Voom | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: engine sounds like old VW Beetle Question: Hi there Wizard. Car was fine until today and is now making this chugging noise like an old VW beetle. I can feel it vibrating the same.Also recently noticed a bumping noise coming from under car at the front when I brake hardish and release when going slow. Could it be the engine to manifold has loosened ? Many thanks for your valued opinion. I'm new on here so 'Hello' as well! Answer: you need to do a compression check first. - it could be that your blown the headgasket? also do a check of the manifold studs and see if they are tight and feel around the manifold, whilst the engine has started from cold, to see if it is blowing. - it could also be the exhaust downpipe to turbo elbow pipe connection - right next to the steering rack ( thats my favourite guess ;) ) |
| ID: 7558 | Date: 19/11/12 | Member: V6 CREW | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Non water based coolant Question: Hello Mr Wizard, As we all know Gt Turbos like to over heat from time to time. I have heard of a product: Evans waterless coolant, vintage cool 180. Can this be used in a Gt turbo?! Has any body tried it? Im intersted in hearing your wise thoughts :) Cheers Tel Answer: if you have a decent radiator and low temp fan switch the gt turbo shouldnt over heat. - the product looks pretty good, although i know you can get redline additive that allegedly does the same thing - basically it lowers the surface tension of the water, which increases the heat transfer from the engine ->water-> radiator. basically it seems an expensive fix, for something that done cheaper.... |
| ID: 7559 | Date: 01/12/12 | Member: steves5gtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: replacing ignition barrel Question: can someone help please !? somebody was nice enough to take the keys out my 5 along with the fob for my alarm . i have a replacement barrel for it but unsure how to remove the old one. any help greatly appreciated as cold weather is here now and need to get it into garage to continue restoration but cant move it for the fact the steering lock is now on . cheers steve Answer: you need to drop the column by undoing the two sets of bolts. - you obviously need to remove the lower cowling too. then undo the small screw that holds the barrel in place. then you will have to get a drill and drill out the tangs that hold the barrel in place (along the casing body there are two slots - the tangs poke into these), as you cannot use the key to get the tangs to withdraw - drilling is the only option. once done you can pull the barrel and wiring out. |
| ID: 7560 | Date: 11/12/12 | Member: LYNCHSTAR | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: dump valve Question: is there a certain dumpvalve to use on an engine that boosts over 20psi or can you use a normal forge piston one. Answer: the normal forge one will do :) |
| ID: 7561 | Date: 17/12/12 | Member: robx1r | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fitting an adjustable fuel reg Question: what pressure should it be for the carb to work fine? the bracket on mine broke and i'll be going to efi soon so may aswell Answer: 4 psi over boost at all times. :) |
| ID: 7562 | Date: 05/01/13 | Member: davross | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: injection conversion Question: hi Wiz how much as a rough estimate would it cost to convert to injection as i have no idea? Answer: have a look at this thread.... http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=26659 post 28 is from scoff, which ives you breakdown roughly of what you need. - its getting an inlet manifold which is the pain now. |
| ID: 7563 | Date: 07/01/13 | Member: robx1r | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fuel pump not working Question: i'd like to fix this properly but just checking , can i wire the pump up to an ignition feed so when the igntion is on it will run constantly? Answer: you can do, but you aren't supposed to ;) - if you crash it will carry on pumping zee fuel too zee engine and your car may go caboom. |
| ID: 7564 | Date: 10/01/13 | Member: robx1r | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fuel pump not working Question: where is my fuel pump relay? should the aux pump run as well? please o wise one (or two) help me out Answer: the fuel pump relay is usually attached to the top right of the relay bank by one single screw. - thats the OE place. - sometimes after people have messed with it they tuck it up behind the dash or behind the passenger footwell carpet. - its a big 6 pin thing - black case with a grey connector. |