| ID: 7408 | Date: 07/09/11 | Member: going_downhill | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Carb mixture screw & idle control. Question: Hi Wiz, I managed to get a new mot certificate yesterday but the mot tester said he had to adjust my idle control screw to get it through the emissions test. However my idle has remained the same and the car drives exactly the same off boost. I'm fairly certain he screwed my mixture screw in two rotations instead of the idle screw. I'm worried about going on boost incase this has effected my fueling. Would you think the mixture screw adjustment will cause me any grief? He did point to the mixture screw but i wasnt sharp enough to realise. Thanks. Answer: he needed to adjust the mixture, not the idle speed. he adjusted the correct one i think. it will not mess with ur on boost fuelling as the idle control system shuts off about 1500rpm. |
| ID: 7409 | Date: 11/09/11 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: big jim Question: hi there wiz, i would like to buy a big jim downpipe do you know where i could get one as it says sold out in the club shop i would like onewith the afr bung .hope you can help ,PS car past the nct/mot last mon with flying colours after the bareshell resto during the winter with the help of yourself and this club.many thanks tommy Answer: have you tried talking to him directly? http://www.rtoc.org/boards/member.php?u=765 |
| ID: 7410 | Date: 11/09/11 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Boost gauge Question: Hi Mr Wiz, As a rough guesstimate: on the original boost gauge i am currently boosting to just under the last line..what psi would you say this is? I have an arf gauge so I know it's not running lean... Was wondering how much more it could be turned up... I know I need a more reliable gauge. Answer: the problem is that you are relying on a gauge that is over 20 years old, it wont be accurate. just buy the new gauge and plumb it in. you bought the afr meter and not bought the boost gauge? - chop chop captain! |
| ID: 7411 | Date: 20/09/11 | Member: steven(revo)stanley | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: water noise under the bonnet Question: Hi, I can hear a swishing noise of water coming from under my bonnet when I am driving like it is trapped somewhere - any ideas? Regards Steven Answer: are you sure its water? it could be several other things.... the interior heater fan the aircon gas circulating (if you a little low on gas) boost leaking turbo spooling up - noise through the airfilter. |
| ID: 7412 | Date: 24/09/11 | Member: craig1988 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Over fuelling Question: Hi wiz My car (5 phase 2) appears to have black smoke coming out the exhaust with a distinct petrol smell to it and the AFR is reading 10 on idle. I recently changed the spark plugs, serviced the carb, replaced the ignition relay and TDC sensor. And I'm now a bit unsure what to check next. The smoke is a lot less but still there and the AFR still reads 10. Cheers craig Answer: serviced the carb? did you totally block the idle jet whilst you were at it? lol take it out and clean it up. |
| ID: 7413 | Date: 25/09/11 | Member: craig1988 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Over fuelling 2 Question: Sorry I forgot to mention this is why I did the service and so on. Answer: have you checked the jet sizes on your carb? |
| ID: 7414 | Date: 29/09/11 | Member: danielmk323 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Head bolts Question: hi wiz i have remove the head of my car to make some work in it and i have a set of head bolts 12.9 High Tensile ones can i ruse them Tank you Answer: yes its fine to reuse them. |
| ID: 7415 | Date: 02/10/11 | Member: danielmk323 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: 1 bar of boost Question: Hi wiz i like to turn up the boost to 1 bar im running a garret GT2560R and a piper 285 cam do i need to mod the 2nd stage i have a afr fit it Answer: id open the 2nd stage out to a 1.2mm and see what the afr's are like on boost. |
| ID: 7416 | Date: 02/10/11 | Member: going_downhill | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: starter wont turn Question: hi wiz. my car has sometimes just clicked when turning the key but always starts after a couple of attempts. now when i turn the key i dont even get a click, dash lights illuminate but not a sound from the starter. battery is good and terminals seem fine. whats the likely cause? Answer: the starter is fecked. they get fried by the heat from the exhaust. |
| ID: 7417 | Date: 06/10/11 | Member: morgy | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: cup mod Question: I want to do the cup mod but dont know how to do you have a diagram to help plaese Answer: the original site :) http://membres.multimania.fr/r5gt/gtt/cup.htm |
| ID: 7418 | Date: 08/10/11 | Member: Down under 5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: -blank- Question: Electric window stuck wide open,nothing I do will make it lift. Now I can see what's needed to get motor out but how do I get those bolts that hold the lifting mechanism to the glass channel, or is there another way. Power to window ok, cleaned contacts. Thank you for any help. Answer: you need to connect a battery directly to the contacts of the motor. this usually frees up the motor, as it will have burnt spot or corrosion on its commutator. if that dont work...then let come back on here. |
| ID: 7419 | Date: 09/10/11 | Member: Slim | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: very poor fuel consumption Question: Hi Wiz kid. Im getting really poor mpg, and im very sure its not the carb. This is my third carb, and has been jetted by someone on here quite well known. The afr's are 11 on boost,, and 14 off boost. But I seem to be only getting around 180 miles to a full tank (no boosting.. if i boost it goes really quick). Im pretty sure this cant be right and its killing my pocket. :( Ive once had a fuel leak on the tank in the usual place,, (bung),, but have sealed that once. Doesnt have sign of leaking (cant see or smell),, maybe its still leaking but i cant detect.?? Ive checked the copper fuel lines, they 'seem' ok..is there anything else it could be? what would you suggest to check next? im out of ideas otherwise thinking of taking the tank off? suggestions pls. Thanks. Sorry for the essay. :P Answer: how much are you putting in the tank? you need to do your sums. i'll think you will find that you are getting reasonable mpg - between 20-30mpg. |
| ID: 7420 | Date: 10/10/11 | Member: Slim | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: very poor fuel consumption pt 2 Question: your right wiz... im getting 20 - 30 mpg. Infact im getting 21 mpg to be precise. Is this normal? From what i said before.. afr on idle 14 on boost 11. But i get 21 mpg without ever putting my foot down. Answer: best ive ever heard of is about 28mpg. try leaning out the idle a touch to see if it still idles ok. |
| ID: 7421 | Date: 10/10/11 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: bloody carb Question: running 18 psi with standard venturi 1.2 main 1.0 a/c 1.3 2nd 1.7 idle jet after screwing mixture screw in all the way and unscrewing 3 turns it ran like a bag of ***e after screwing out nearly all the way i finally got the afr,s to 14.5 idled great took it for a spin afr,s in high 11,s on boost and 14.2 at cruise. then when cars stationary the afr,s drop to low 12,s then i screw the idle screw back in to get 14.5 take it for a spin drives great then have to set afr,s again. when cars of and go to start it again it struggles to start black smoke comes out exhaust like its over fuelling. Answer: 1.7 idle jet? shouldnt it be a 44 or 45 ??? you mean the float chamber jet. 1st of all check that fuel isnt leaking from the 2nd venturi down the middle of the carb when idling. 2nd - take out the idle jet, and see whats written on it. - is it a 44 or 45? - you will need a 45 - if you have a piper cam then you will have to screw this out quite along way to get it to idle properly. |
| ID: 7422 | Date: 12/10/11 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Bloody carb 2 Question: Hi there again did check idle jet and it's a 45 and I have a 285 piper cam taken the car for a spin and after a good thrash the afr,s arestayng at 14.2 14.4 the only problem now on boost the afr,s drop to mid 10's. Do I need to change a/c Answer: make the ac bigger. |
| ID: 7423 | Date: 22/10/11 | Member: LiamR | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Front+Rear Caliper Rebuild Guide Question: Hiya Wiz, Any idea where i can find a guide to rebuild my calipers please? And is it pretty easy to do? Thanks ps- I have looked on google and cant find anything Answer: to be honest, ive never done one. But....i'd say most are the same. so have a look at this ;) http://www.lukekailburn.com/caliperrebuild.html |
| ID: 7424 | Date: 22/10/11 | Member: Joe Heath | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Dyno run Question: hi wiz, got my car on the dyno taday but the boost doesnt seem to be coming in soon enough e.g 4krpm not sure how to get pic up but results were max power wheels:126.5bhp@6125rpm, engine:165.4bhp@6144rpm and torque142.8lbft@5784rpm. im running a turbo technics t25/t2 thought this would give me quck spool up, have also fitted tubular manifold and big jim downpipe running 17psi std cam. afrs are about 11.9 wot bit rich but im hoping to up the boost once this problem is resolved. we were expecting the boost and torque to go up sooner and level out but seemed to go up in a straight line as if it was a massive laggy turbo and all power was at top end. im going to check for boost leaks. is there a way of checking manifold for leaks? do you have any other ideas?? when roughly should the boost come in and when should it reach full boost? thanks joe Answer: what does your turbo spool up to on the road? i was at the same rolling road, mine comes on full boost at 3500 rpm, yet on the RR the operator commented it came on full boost at 4k+! it could be the way the rolling road loads the engine up you see..... check your cam timing is ok. if it drives differently on the road, then leave it. if it is laggy on the road, then check for leaks - which you will blatently hear. the check the cam timing, as a mistimed cam can cause laggy-turbo-itis. |
| ID: 7425 | Date: 22/10/11 | Member: Joe Heath | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: dyno run 2 Question: hi, just did a leak test. blanked off telephone hose and carb hose and put air line in to telephone breather hole. no leaks on the intercooler or pipework but leaking air from the seam around the back of the compressor housing on the turbo from 5psi upwards. could this be my problem and is there a solution? turbo is out of warranty, thanks Answer: i think there is a rubber O ring there on some turbos. i'd probably take off the housing and smear with silicone sealant. reassemble and leave to set ;) |
| ID: 7426 | Date: 27/10/11 | Member: Jeff Ninebar | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: T25 Rebuild kit Question: I have a Turbotechnics Stage 3 T25 turbo, part no S157. Will a Garrett T25 rebuild kit fit this turbo? Answer: be careful, it might be a t2 core with t25 front wheel - in which case a t2 kit maybe slightly different to a t25 type? |
| ID: 7427 | Date: 28/10/11 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: slipping clutch- gearbox out Question: Hi wiz, So the clutch started slipping today, not sure if there is oil contamination or it is just knackered. if its oil- what else would i need to fix? I have recently done a rebuild of the block, head etc etc had the Flywheel skimmed, clutch looked fine has been running for a few thousand miles without issue. Never had any issues in past 3-4 years, Not sure what the BHP is but it has never had issues before… Anyway, is there a guide or any advice for removing the gearbox without taking the block out? Chris Answer: spray carb cleaner down the plate first, to see if it cleans any oil off. the only guide on here takes the engine out and leaves the box in. http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=454 |
| ID: 7428 | Date: 28/10/11 | Member: Jeff Ninebar | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: T25 Turbo 2 Question: I think it is a full T25, core and all. you can get a kit with bearings for T2 and T25 on ebay so was thinking of trying one of them. Bloke from Turbo Technics said that "The turbo uses our own in house produced bearing system, and therefore can only be properly re-built by ourselves. So i am wondering if a standard T25 kit will fit? I found an awesome guide on servicing a T25 on the net so was going to give it a go... http://photo.platonoff.com/Auto/20051009.Garrett_T25_Turbo_Rebuild/ Answer: sounds like turbo technics are bullshitting. i think the t25 kit may do it. |
| ID: 7429 | Date: 30/10/11 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: afr Question: hi there wiz.im trying to set my carb and turbo up but imhaving trouble buying a lm1 wideband kit on the intrenet most seem to be sold out i have new jets and micro drillbits to do 2nd stage drilling but would like to fit the kit to do it right or should i take it to the rolling road . hope you can help.rough car spec.16 psi 130main 0.9ac.new stage2 t2 with .47 exh .DC intercooler. Answer: innovate superceded the LM1 with a LM2 i think. you'll have to keep trying though. i'd have said for 16psi the 0.9ac is maybe a little small? - i'd have gone for a 100 jet. |
| ID: 7430 | Date: 31/10/11 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: throttle asm. Question: at the throttle assembly at the bottom of carb does the brass plate on the spindle have to have a gap set or does it have to be closed on idle. i remember something like this on one of the threads ages ago using a drill bit. Answer: it has a very small gap. adjustable with the idle speed screw. |
| ID: 7431 | Date: 07/11/11 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fuel problem Question: Rebuilt a carb cleaned it all and used air gun to clean out used standard venturi 1mm a/c 1.2 main 1.2mm 2nd stage and used new gaskets set boost to 18psi using stage 3 hybrid with 285 piper cam set afr 14.1 to 14.3 it pulled like hell on boost at 11.8 but on cruise the reading was between 10 and high 11,s. i chaned the a/c to a 1.25 and still the same. on way home i broke down:cry: tried starting it and there was no fuel delivery so i put old carb back on and same again . After a load of checks by chance i took the lid of fuel tank and the fuel sender or what ever its called was in peices in the tank i replaced it with a spare went to start car it took a while but it fired up ticked over fine:) could the fuel sender have caused this and the car to run lean while cars on cruise. gonna take the car out for a test 2mora and curious about the new built car. Answer: the sender incorporates the pick up. so it stands a chance that was the problem. just run it and see whether it sorts itself out. |
| ID: 7432 | Date: 15/11/11 | Member: danielmk323 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Subframe engine stablizer mount barcket Question: which way should this be a fix to the sub frame Answer: it just bolts to the subrframe. |
| ID: 7433 | Date: 21/11/11 | Member: leeroy5gtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: crankshaft Question: Does any one do an uprated forged crankshaft? Answer: i think that i once saw one on a german site, but the name escapes me. - it was quite expensive though! why do you want one? if its down to your shells getting knackered, then thats oil pump issues.... |
| ID: 7434 | Date: 23/11/11 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: dynorun Question: hay wiz, had my car on the dyno on sat, the car was 150.9bhp and 155.4 lbft @ 15psi at man, he said the car was a bit rich at 7.6/7.8 dont really understand what that means. does this sound ok for a 5, he said to fit a 1.0 ac might lean it out a bit, im not sure should i just leave it alone? any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks tommy Answer: what is currently fitted in the air corrector? is it a 0.9? 7.8 afr is very rich. Unless he means %CO, which is about 11.6:1 AFR, which is a tad on the rich side but I wouldn't worry about that, it'll just keep it safe. at idle it should be 14.7 approx (0% CO), at wide open throttle on boost it should be low 12's ( i.e the richer the mixture the lower the number) |
| ID: 7435 | Date: 24/11/11 | Member: wiggy-wsm | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: campus 1.4 tunning Question: is there anyway your can tune a 91 campus 1.4 and its carb Answer: yes, but howe much work are you prepared to do? is it an electronic ignition or old school dizzy type ignition? would you be prepared to take the head off and get it skimmed for higher compression? - get the ports smothed and enlarged? how about a N/A piper 285 cam - you'd need new springs and a vernier. you can advance the timing fairly easily and increase cold air into the engine easily. |
| ID: 7436 | Date: 02/12/11 | Member: Andyturbo! | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Should be an easy one Question: Where are the choke and the bonnet pull located in the cabin Answer: bonnet pull is in the far left passenger footwell. the choke is lower right dashboard area. |
| ID: 7437 | Date: 09/12/11 | Member: groky | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: servo pipe positions Question: what is the positions for the brake pipes into the servo Answer: have a look here.... http://www.rtoc.org/files/Renault%20Diaolgy/Renault%205/Brakes/00049024_1.png |