| ID: 7345 | Date: 21/04/11 | Member: demiturbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: -blank- Question: hi wizard i want to run 18 psi i have a hybrid turbo a bosch uprated fuel pump ive got a 150 main jet a gt tuning lobster full samco set pace intercooler uprated plugs and leads and a side exit exhaust thanks Answer: are you asking if this is a good set up? its not really good, as the main jet is too big. you will also need an afr meter to see whether the car will pop. |
| ID: 7346 | Date: 23/04/11 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: A Bar of Boost! Question: Hi wiz Will i be able to run 15psi with out tweaking my carb? Car is standard engine wise apart from scorpion exhaust an KTR 180 turbo and alloy intercooler. Im assuming if i do need to touch carb it will be a case of slightly drilling 2nd stage an checking with an AFR kit or could i just put a 1.25 or 1.3 main in an be done as economy isnt an issue, im after a reliable 150bhp + Cheers ;) Answer: 14psi at the manifold is usually ok with a std carb. always check with an afr meter tho! taking the 2nd stage to 1.2mm seems popular nowadays - although once again an afr meter is necessary |
| ID: 7347 | Date: 23/04/11 | Member: fishyturbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fueling boost Question: Hi i had my car on the rooling road they ended up puting a group a carb on with 150 main jet which made thing's better but now geting a power lose when boost get's to about 1 bar the fuel pressure is just droping down when the boost get's up. any thing you can help with? Answer: you need an uprated fuel pump for a start... then get back to me! a 150 main is faaaarrrr to large for 1 bar of boost! |
| ID: 7348 | Date: 23/04/11 | Member: moodyr5gtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Holding back before coming on to boost Question: hi, i'm having a problem when you just start to pull off at low rpm. the engine revs up but then suddenly drops (sometimes stalls) just as clutch is about to bite. Seems to get worse the hotter the car is. Also if you try and cruise, it keeps spluttering. had new dizzy cap, rotor, leads,plugs and tdc sensor..?? help.. Answer: what plugs are you running? when was the last time you changed the fuel filter? are you running the tdc lead wire swap? is the car timed up correctly? i needz da anzers m8 :) |
| ID: 7349 | Date: 24/04/11 | Member: fishyturbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fueling boost Question: it has one fitted on there a bosh pump set up to run 15psi every work's up to about a bar then car stuttering? Answer: ok, i think the garage might have fitted a dodgy carb. no one ever fitted a carb with a 150 main jet for a 15psi set up. Have you got your overboost sensor disconnected? also check that if you have a dump valve fitted, that its not leaking internally and that it can hold a vacuum. - this can cause problems with the ignition timing and cause problems. |
| ID: 7350 | Date: 25/04/11 | Member: 5 turbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Over heating/Mayonaise Question: Morning Wizard how goes it??Can u help..My gtt is overheating(gets too jus below third bar on gauage)and after a bit off driving,espicially after boostie boostie im getting intermittant mayo??Brand new engine,Ktec uprated head gasket/bolts/82c stat/manual fan/brand new "alloy"rad,new matrix,No air locks,new water pump/temp switch proper 50/50colant mix,new swirl pot,checked temp sensor wires are right way round...its a brand new engine...have done 1k running in miles and now its getting gunged up an seems lazy??No whistling noises jus very slight film in header tank...Please help wizard an ask me anything u want too know...as i hope my head/block/liners aint cracked!! Cheers for your time wizard Answer: just do a compression check. this will see if you have hg problem... i'd also need to verify exactly where you think the third mark is on the temp gauge. the standard rad fan switch cuts in just before the dashed warning area. the low temp one cuts in just before the mark which is 60deg from horizontal, it thn takes it down to the 1/2 way point. |
| ID: 7351 | Date: 25/04/11 | Member: bigdur | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Smoke from breather Question: I've had a good search but found no answer, I changed my breather filter for a pipe into bottle as the filter blocked and was causing some from the exhaust on idle. When the engine is hot I get steam from the pipe but no oil, how much smoke is normal? Answer: my oil pot used to fill up every month with watery sludge. its condensation that forms in the engine. |
| ID: 7352 | Date: 26/04/11 | Member: GordonB | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Starter motor connections Question: There's 3 connections to the solenoid. 2 are ignition switched and the other is perm live. Theres also a lead that is built in to the solenoid that connects to the starter motor body. My questions is which terminal the built in wire should be connected to, which terminal the perm connection goes to, and which one get the ignition switched input. Need to verify my wiring. Answer: there are three wires from the cars wiring. the big positive from the alternator. the big positive to the battery. the small white wire - switched ign. the two big positives connect to the solenoid on the same connection. the switched +ve connects to the spade connector on the solenoid. |
| ID: 7354 | Date: 27/04/11 | Member: GordonB | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Starter motor connections (part 2) Question: "the two big positives connect to the solenoid on the same connection." Which connection on the starter motor? The terminal that has the small built-in lead back to the starter motor body, or the other one (i suspect the other one). The solenoid isn't clearly marked, and i want to make sure the built-in lead is going to the right terminal. The car starts at the moment, but i just want to be 100% sure the wiring is all good. Answer: connect the +ves to the 'other one' - not the one that connects to the starter motor body! |
| ID: 7355 | Date: 27/04/11 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Running lumpy at 1.5k Question: Okay so here is my problem The car is hesitating and runs lumpy from 1.5k onwards. Currently i am bedding the engine in after a rebuild- so turbo not boosting through the engine she ticks over fine sitting just under 1k at around 14.6 on the AFR As soon as you accelerate or rev over 1.5k runs horrible. Has a new dizzy, new roter arm, new HT's, new sparks.. sounds happy as idling so assume the timing is good....(unless i'm missing something..... i am not overly technical just an expensive hobby) i have done away with alot of the hoses- currently have bleed valve from actuator to base of carb, D/V to aei with a boost gauge via a t-piece- no splits as far as i know. 1.20 main jet with 1.20 air. standard everything else.... What could the problem be? or what can i do to find out what it is? Answer: take the dizzy cap off. check CAREFULLY inside the cap.- look at the pegs inside it. - where is the corrosion? - across the middle or all over to one side of the flat peg? off to one side means your spark is in totally the wrong place! i bet you have got either the mechanical timing wrong, or the tdc sensor is advanced or retarded too much, or the tdc sensor/wire is faulty, or the dump valve seal/diaphram is leaking. |
| ID: 7356 | Date: 02/05/11 | Member: Jez C | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Wiring connection to low temp fan switch Question: Hi Wizard, Ive had a problem with my rad fan not coming on and put it down to a faulty fan switch. What I would like to know is whether you can still get hold of the harness/plug that allows the wiring to connect to the radiator mounted switch as I would like to replace this when replacing the switch. Although the fan works fine when the wires are bridged I would like to replace the existing connector as it is partly melted and does not secure to the radiator switch very well. Do you know whether the plug is still available from Renault? If not is there a connector from another car or Renault model that will provide a snug fit to the fan switch? Answer: the problem here is that the low temp fan switches have different connectors than the std fan switches. which fan switch have you got? i think the engine wiring loom is still available.... from a few places. |
| ID: 7357 | Date: 02/05/11 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: stuttering on boost Question: Wiz, when driving the car reaonably hard through the gears the engine decides to start stuttering in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear just when the engine is coming on boost. i have so far checked the pick up filter in fuel tank, fuel filter, inline filter in carb, stripped and cleaned the carb checked mixture screw, checked plugs leads and cap + arm but now running out of optiond. the car has been running fine for a year now but i cant seem to find the cause of the problem do you have any ideas... Answer: have you checked the vac tubing to and from the aei and the dump valve to see if it can hold a vacuum. in 3rd 4th and 5th there is more load on the engine than normal, so im thinking timing. maybe tdc sensor/lead has got burned or toasted? |
| ID: 7358 | Date: 02/05/11 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: stuttering on boost 2 Question: wiz, regards to previous question, a friend and i have been out in the car to try identify the problem. we have found that when the car starts stuttering and we keep our foot down the car starts to do the odd backfire. also if we slowly put our foot down it doent do anything and the car is fine. we wondered if the car could be over fuelling? but even then wouldnt know what could be causing this... Answer: have you tried a different carb yet? |
| ID: 7359 | Date: 04/05/11 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Starter motor excite wire size Question: Hi wiz, What is the spec of the white 'excite wire' that goes from the ignition to the starter motor? Via the passenger headlight connector block. Looking to implement Ian Simpsons mod to eliminate the voltage drop from the ignition cheers Chris Answer: easiest way is to cut a piece out of it, goto maplins or some other electronic component supplier and get them to match the grade. |
| ID: 7360 | Date: 07/05/11 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: not so happy starter motor Question: Hi Wiz, Found the appropriate wire and have got the by pass in place... unfortunately this hasn't fixed my problem starting the car. It seems to turn over fine when cold, once warm it just clicks once. i have heat shielded the starter motor, made sure there is a good connection on + connections. I just fitted a earth cable and will try that tomorrow Start motor i brand new. Any other suggestions to what this could be? Answer: its a standard r5 gtturbo feck up. not only is the manifold close to the starter, so is the turbo and downpipe. think about it....heat expands metal. something on your starter has dried out and when hot expands. usually a new starter motor sorts this out. |
| ID: 7361 | Date: 08/05/11 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: not so happy starter motor part 2 Question: Hi Wiz, It is a new starter motor... guess ill try find some exhaust wrap, see if that helps! Thanks Chris Answer: it'll be a recon one.... not brand new ;) is it a laguna/clio smaller bodied one, or an OE sized r5 one?(which is huge!) |
| ID: 7362 | Date: 11/05/11 | Member: PeteB | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Coolant radiator Question: Do you know what wider radiator can be used when oil cooler is located separately please? Answer: renault clio diesel radiator... |
| ID: 7363 | Date: 13/05/11 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Fueling Question: Hi Wizard, Just had my car on the rolling road and it seems to be running a bit lean. Its on 15psi with 130 main and 90 air corrector it made 176bhp. Do you think I need a 135 or 140 or is it a case of trial and error? Also might turn it up to 18ish psi to get a bit more oompf! Thank's alot wizzz Answer: thats quite good power for 15psi. is it lean at the top end, high up the revs or is it just lean mid range or idle? |
| ID: 7365 | Date: 13/05/11 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Fueling- 2 Question: Thanks for your reply wizard, Looking at the printout it seems to be rich at the low end and lean at high revs top end around 4300rpm like when the turbo comes on full boost. The t25 turbo fitted is quite laggy all the power seems to be around 4000. Thanks for your help wizzz Answer: have you tried making the 2nd stage enricher a 1.2 or 1.3mm. - you have to drill the bush with a micro drill bit. you'd also need an afr meter, so you can fiddle with the carb yourself. |
| ID: 7364 | Date: 13/05/11 | Member: WILLO | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Paint code Question: Hi I am looking for the paint code for my phase 2 gtt the colour is i think pearl white thanks Answer: *sigh* http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=7487 |
| ID: 7366 | Date: 14/05/11 | Member: ioshi_s_golf | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Gear box from volvo 850R m59 Question: Hi wizz Can you tell me what this means "Highly sought after M59 gearbox with viscous coupling (LSD?)" Is this means that this gear box is with lsd? And what is viscous coupling ? Cheers Joseph Answer: the m59 box off a 480/440turbo will fit the 5. as for the viscous coupling just found this info.... http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/8049-m59-lsd/ its basically a device that fits on the one driveshaft. fiat coupe 20v turbos use them too. tyre size, power and cars weight can all mess with the unit though. - i doubt itd work on a 5. |
| ID: 7367 | Date: 19/05/11 | Member: john.r5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: carb pipes Question: hi wiz is there a pic of the carb pipe layout ie vac water etc etc Answer: these ok? http://www.rtoc.org/files/?path=Renault Diaolgy/Renault 5/Engine/Fuel and Exhaust/ http://www.rtoc.org/files/?path=Renault Diaolgy/Renault 5/Engine/Cooling and Heating/ |
| ID: 7368 | Date: 22/05/11 | Member: demiturbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: safe psi Question: hi wizard wots the most psi a group a carb can run . Answer: depends which version of the group A you have? do you know what jet sizes and venturi size you have? |
| ID: 7369 | Date: 23/05/11 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Fueling-3 Question: Hi Wiz, Thanks for your reply. I drilled out the 2nd stage to 1.2 and now the fueling seems pretty good in mid 12s. Rolling roaded to check power its about the same 180 @ 1bar but the power drops off suddenly at 5000 revs, and keeps falling (ran it to 6800) any ideas what could be causing it?? The operator was stumped too! Have rebuilt engine covered 5000miles std compression, Ktec cam, Garrett t25 rollerbearing turbo, large turbo elbow/downpipe, 21/4'' exhaust, bosch fuel pump, double capacity intercooler, induction kit, rebuilt carb 27mm venturi 1.4main jet .9 air corrector. Sorry for the essay Thanks wizard, Ben Answer: you are emptying the float chamber. the float chamber needle jet is too small. - try a 2mm job. |
| ID: 7370 | Date: 24/05/11 | Member: danielmk323 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fuel pump Question: Hi wiz do you now how much boost will the p2 fuel pump be up to like can handel the fueling for 20 psi over Tank you for your time Answer: the ph2 pump will only be good for 18psi |
| ID: 7371 | Date: 25/05/11 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: want to get rid of the green carpet! Question: hi there wiz , i have a phase 1 and it has green carpet, is it possible to have a new carpet manufactured in a different colour. i would like the carpet to be blue to match the car and all the new upholistery many thanks Tommy! Answer: all ph 1's had light grey carpet. someone must have coloured yours? your best bet is get a grey one and dye it blue... |
| ID: 7372 | Date: 28/05/11 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: best box Question: hi wiz, thanks for the advice on the carpet finally getting the car back from bodyshop, i have 2 gearboxes in perfect working order phase 1 and phase 2 in your opinion which would be the best one to fit? is there any real differenct.... thanks very much for your invaluable advice Answer: id say fit the ph1. quicker acceleration perhaps? |
| ID: 7374 | Date: 05/06/11 | Member: Hobuleta | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: turbo power problems Question: hi, im having a problem with my boost, or lack of it. The turbo gauge shoots up when accelerating, but im not getting the power. I can hear the whistle as well. The ren 11 turbo is standard and with no mods, the car has been in a barn for 13 years and ive now brought it back to life (12 months mot). If it has leaks, how do i test it ? What else can i do? many thanks Answer: take all the hoses of one by one. and check for splits. take off the intercooler and pour in some white spirit - if its leaking the white spirit will find it.... also check the black rubber O ring under the carb top is present and still rubbery! |
| ID: 7375 | Date: 05/06/11 | Member: Hobuleta | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Problem with carb Question: Hi, im having a problem with setting my carb up (Solex 32 dis). Ive stripped it, cleaned it and replaced the gaskets (as per gasket repair kit). How do i go about setting it up (mixture / idle screws and so on) Many thanks Answer: there are only two screws really to worry about. the mixture and the idle. 1) get the car running without stalling via the idle screw. 2)then stop the hunting by richening - screwing anti clockwise the mixture screw. 3) reduce the idle. 4) if it starts hunting again, then twiddle the mixture screw. |
| ID: 7376 | Date: 05/06/11 | Member: danielmk323 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: oil pressure sensor Question: Hi wiz is the oil pressure sensor thread a NTP 1/8inch national pipe thread Answer: ooo, i dont know that one. i assume you are going to fit an aftermarket one, in which case they usually come with the correct adapter to fit onto your OE pipe. |