| ID: 7217 | Date: 15/08/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: t25 Question: hi wizard, ive now rebuilt my spare engine, new chain, liners, wossner pistons and rods, headgasket, oil pump, and paddle clutch, its all been chromed 2 lol even the gearbox, next question is if i put the t25 on what is needed as in re jetting, and the inlet exhaust side of things?? so i can put it together and it wont run ***, and what is the safest boost to run psi,, it doesnt need to get me up motorways, its just a toy so short periods of driving but fun ones,, is there anything ive missed on the rebuild??? dont wana get it in and blow a week spot ive overlooked cheers wizard, couldnt do it without your help Answer: if you open up the 2nd stage enricher up to a 1.2 and get yourself an AFR meter, then you may be good for 17psi. however.... if you have got everything chromed, then make sure that the rocker cover has been thoroughly cleaned under the splash guard!- else bits of yack and grit will kill your engine. |
| ID: 7218 | Date: 15/08/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: samcos Question: hi wizard another question, ive just had my samcos nicked from under the bonnet by sum little c%£t ive bought sum new ones and noticed there no sensor on the new intercooler to turbo inlet pipe??? the old 1 had a big brass 1 with 2 spade terminals,,,,,, do i need it whai is it? and will it work without it? Answer: it was the overboost sensor.- it will run fine without it. |
| ID: 7219 | Date: 15/08/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: waste gate chatter Question: hi wizard, basicly by r5 has a problem boosting which is annoying,,, however 1 day it just worked. while it was working fine i noticed loud wastegate noise,, it has now gon back to working like a pile of ***e and the noise is gone???????? it doesnt matter as i now have a brand spanking new engine but i was wondering what it was, r they connected??? cheers Answer: did you have a dump valve? if not, then that should give whoosh noise - its not wastegate chatter either, but boost coming back out of the compressor housing as you've just shut the throttle plate. |
| ID: 7220 | Date: 16/08/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: waste gate chatter 2 Question: hi wizard, yes i had a dumpvalve, it was a bailey,, ive now got a forge 1 and when i drive the car hard it still boosts like *** in 3rd gear upwards, sumtimes backfires with black smoke, but now the dumpvalve doesnt work it just swishes up then down with no presure cshhhhhh, any ideas????? im fed up with it now n dont even drive it :-( Answer: is the forge a diaphram or a piston one? - if you suck the vac connection to the d/v is it leaking? - ie you have a holed diaphram or a leaking seal. - the d/v should open and then you cannot suck anymore. failing that you have a leaking vacuum hose to the back of the dump valve or the aei unit. |
| ID: 7221 | Date: 19/08/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: vaccume hoses Question: hi wizard, can you tell me the best place to run the vacume hoses from the aei unit to.... and the dumpvalve??? does it matter if the both cum off the same pipe?? at the minute ive got the power boost valve between the 1st wastegate pick up to the very bottom of the carb. and the dumpvalve and aei unit going halfway up the carb is that right??? Answer: fail! the aei vacuum feed needs to come from the inlet manifold.- there is a tiny connector just above the two one way valves. this is what you should use for the aei connection. you then T off this for the dump valve. the wastegaste actuator boost feed needs to come off the carb top and the bleed valve/ power boost valve is T'd off that pipe to leak boost away from the wategate actuator. do you follow? |
| ID: 7222 | Date: 19/08/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: wastegate chatter 3 Question: hi wizard its a twin piston type, ive sucked it its fine, just doesnt seem to work? and the car still wont boost properly, its got an adjustable boostvalve should i remove it? its from power tec, and its between the first pick up on wastegate actuator ie closet the rad and the very bottom ov the carb, cheers Answer: i think ive found your problem with the answer to your last question. its the boost/vac feeds are wrong! sort em out first then try driving it. |
| ID: 7223 | Date: 20/08/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: genius Question: hiwiz, just wana thank you for all the help, ur a genius m8 cheers Answer: has it worked though? lol |
| ID: 7224 | Date: 21/08/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: genius 2 Question: yes m8 it has,,, the afr was out too, i can sell that engine now its workin and put my new 1 in lol oh and ive just noticed the mixture screw was missing so i put a spare in Answer: good one! |
| ID: 7225 | Date: 23/08/10 | Member: chris290582 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: foreign aluminium rad fittings Question: Hello, i have bought a chinese full alloy 50mm radiator, the only problem i have is the oil pipes that went into the standard radiator have male threaded ends and the alloy rad has male ends as well. i have a seperate mocal type oil cooler, can i just use this or do i need to use the rad oil cooler as well and get it modded to take the male ends to female? many thanks. Answer: are you sure the OE hose connections wont screw up the inside of the rad connections? i.e is it threaded up the inside of the rad connections? |
| ID: 7226 | Date: 24/08/10 | Member: chris290582 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: foreign aluminium rad fittings Question: i have checked the inside of the male ends on the radiator an they are not threaded, is it possible to purchase a straight connector of some sort? if so where as i dont know where to start as the plumbing shop local to me were quite unhelpful. many thanks. Answer: you need a hydraulics fitting place, either pirtek or james listers and sons. |
| ID: 7227 | Date: 31/08/10 | Member: Dan y | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fitting a hybrid turbo Question: Hi Wiz, ive just bought a t25/t2 turbo to replace my smokey standard one, when i fit it will i need to change anything else on my standard set up , carb jets? / fuel pump? etc , ill be running 15 psi, thank - Dan Answer: are you running the same boost as before? - if so, keep it the same. if not, then you will have to enlarge the 2nd stage enricher slightly and get an afr meter on it. |
| ID: 7228 | Date: 01/09/10 | Member: VALE46 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: heat shield sensor grommet Question: can anyone tell me if the gromett/bracket that the heat shield sensor fits in the heat shield itself is still available?? I have a new genuine shield/sensor but the hole in the shield is massive compared to the small perc fan sensor (my local reno dealer says it N/A) anyone know part number etc.. Answer: try mike (phase 1 16v) at gt turbo spares |
| ID: 7229 | Date: 01/09/10 | Member: bryn7736 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: alloys rubbing on brakes Question: just fitted a set of momo arrows 16" et35 to my 5 the rear wheels are rubbing on the calipers, what spacers do i need or can i machine the pad hanger down. also any ideas on the correct size spigot rings required? cheersa Answer: 60.1mm spigot rings. id go for 5mm spacers - it depends on how much arch room you have. |
| ID: 7230 | Date: 03/09/10 | Member: Manparis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: clunk when i turn wheel Question: hi ive recently got a clunk noise when i turn the steering wheel while stationarry. Now i ve had new wishbones coilovers top strut bearings and ball joints and track rod ends. and the steering rack was replaced not more than 2 years ago. it sounds like its coming from the right front wheel. could this be the cv joint caus everything else is nearly new? Answer: u need to have an assistant listen to the right side as you turn the wheel. to see if its coming from the top or the bottom of the suspension unit. |
| ID: 7231 | Date: 04/09/10 | Member: A1 RAIDER | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: PROBLEM NO OIL IN WATER OR WATER IN OIL Question: NO OIL IN WATER AND NO WATER IN OIL NO BUT CAR JUST OVER HEATS THE WATER DOSE NOT SEAM TO MOVE AROUND BECAUSE AIR CEAPS BILDING UP IN THE WATER BOTTLE HAVE BLAD THE SYSTEM LOADS OF TIMES BUT STILL CANT GET IT RUNING PROPLY CAN YOU HELP AS LOCAL GARAGES CAN NOT EVEN FIGER IT OUT. Answer: You need to pressurise the water system and check for leaks. 20psi should be enough - use an old expansion cap and fit a tyre valve to it. Then use a foot pump. Also do a compression check on the engine |
| ID: 7232 | Date: 06/09/10 | Member: chris290582 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: engine wiring colours Question: hello, im trying to understand which colour wires go where on my ph2 renault 5 gt turbo engine. -radiator fan switch? -starter motor wiring? -alternator? the wiring looms are quite expensive and i dont have another car to try and compare with, also which are the only essential bits of wiring to actually do to make the car run? many thanks. Answer: rad fan switch are a orange and a green off the top of my head. alternator wiring is a purple and a yellow to the regulator. starter wiring is a med white to the solenoid. to get the car to run, you really only need a positive and a neg to the aei unit and a tdc signal. you really really need to get a haynes manual or speak to ur area rep. |
| ID: 7233 | Date: 06/09/10 | Member: DougScott | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Bad earth to AEI relay Question: Hi, My car would not start after being stood for about 5 years. I traced it back to the AEI relay. I checked the relay and it was fine. When I check the earth, there was power to it with the ignition on (less than 12v though). If I run a wire directly from the relay earth to the battery negative then the car fires up fine. So the earth is getting power from some where which is causing my problem. Going to the relay are 2 yellow wires 1 of which splits into 2 and also goes to the relay bridging to of the terminals. There is also a black wire which is the problem one. So in total there are 3 yellow wires and 1 black. So, I suppose my question is, how can I most easily and quickly resolve this problem? Where is the fault most likely to be in the car and how can I trace it back without taking my dash out!! My electrical knowledge is not very good I am afraid. Thanks very much for and help/advice Answer: have you tried changing the fuel pump relay for a known unit? do you have an afterrmarket alarm fitted> it could have gone faulty.... easiest thing to is chop the earth and create your own earth to the body??? |
| ID: 7234 | Date: 07/09/10 | Member: DougScott | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Bad earth to AEI relay (part 2) Question: Hi Wizard, Firstly, thanks for your speedy response. By fuel pump relay, are you talking about the one in the scuttle panel? I have tried 2 relays in the scuttle panel which both work fine (I have tested them both off the car). I do have an aftermarket alarm fitted but that has been bypassed and when I create an earth to the relay the engine fires up fine. Therefore it is the earth which is at fault. (the alarm cuts the signal to the starter solenoid when it is connected and nothing else). Thats a good idea, I could easily create another earth to the body and that would certainly fix it. However there is power getting to the earth somewhere, so the battery will be continually draining if I leave it as it is. The correct way to do it is to find where the power is getting to the earth but have no idea where to look with out removing the dash and that just isn't an option!!! My Haynes elec diags are pretty poor, are there any better ones? Have you any idea where that black wire goes when it disappears in to the bulkhead? Thanks very much again Answer: personally, i don't know where the black wire disappears to once inside the bulkhead, i'd have hoped it would have gone to an earth.... i mentioned the fuel pump relay - which is down by the passenger footwell, because it is linked to the aei relay. - not sure how, but i know if the aei doesnt see a tdc signal, then the fuel pump doesnt fire, due to the fuel pump relay. so....if you remove the relay. - bridge the two wires that give power to the pump at ign positive, and see if your earth wire at the aei relay is still positive. haynes manual diags, arent as bad as you may think, but you may still end up having to partially pull the dash forward to get to the bundle of wires that are attached to the bulkhead/underside of the top of the dash area. :( |
| ID: 7235 | Date: 08/09/10 | Member: bryn7736 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: relay probs Question: Can i bypass the ignition cut off relay, by taking the yellow wire straight to the aei unit? Answer: ignition cut off relay?-which relay are you looking at? do you mean the aei relay that supplies power to the aei or the fuel pump relay in the passenger side footwell? |
| ID: 7236 | Date: 09/09/10 | Member: bryn7736 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: relay probs 2 Question: the relay that supplies the aei unit Answer: yes as long as the aei gets ign +ve |
| ID: 7237 | Date: 10/09/10 | Member: bryn7736 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: exhaust / fuel tank heat shield rotten Question: Can it just be removed or is a replacement required or is there some sort of mod for this? cheers Answer: you could try fabricating a new one..... or just remove it. |
| ID: 7238 | Date: 19/09/10 | Member: chris290582 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: wiring wrong? Question: hello, i have purchased an engine wiring loom and am trying to wire my car up from scratch, it has all the respective plastic connectors on the ends of the wires to got to things like the alt and temp switch and rad fan etc, there is a thick black wire on the back of the engine about 12" long not sure where this goes, i have concerns about the wiring from the starter motor to the battery and also which wires go to and from the battery, i tried what i thought was correct and when i put the terminals on the battery there was a lot of violent sparking and very hot wires from the battery forwards. i have bought a haynes manual as you reccomended for my previous questions but im struggling to find the diagrams for the turbo model in it. sorry for the long winded nature of this query. hope this is just something simple. many thanks Answer: the wiring to the starter motor/battery is really easy. from the battery the negative goes straight to the body in the scuttle tray. the battery positive goes through a hole in the bulkhead, is clipped next to the bulkhead, it then hooks round and connects to the back of the starter motor. there is another thick wire which then comes off the same connection, disappears into the wiring loom and connects straight to the alternator positive. there is a small white wire that comes off the main connector under the passenger headlamp - this connects to the solenoid on the starter motor with a spade connector. the alternator wires should be very very similar to all r5's! |
| ID: 7239 | Date: 20/09/10 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: No ignition lights but runs ok! Question: Hi wiz I currently have no ignition lights an no dials yet they still illuminate with the lights and the buttons, when pressed still light up including hazards an indicators off the stalk. The car still starts an runs normally. I have checked all fuses an cleaned dashboard earth but nothing.... Any ideas? Thank you Answer: check you rheostat - the light dimmer thing. it maybe faulty. |
| ID: 7241 | Date: 21/09/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: No gears Question: Went out in car yesterday drove fine went to go backlit in it later that evening when engine is running it will not go in to gear. When engines not running the gears engage good rachets ok. Answer: clutch cable snapped? |
| ID: 7243 | Date: 21/09/10 | Member: chris290582 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: old alarm/ immobiliser Question: hi there i have sorted the engine loom out now and have got the car to turn over but it wont start. i have cut out the scorpion alarm/immobiliser which didnt work properly from the ignition under the dash and put the wires back to where they should be behind the key barrel. are there likely to be any other wires to stop me from starting the car that i will need to chop off or is it straight from the key to the engine as i have already done. or could it be that the 1/4 tank of fuel i have in it is dead? the car has been sat since may, many thanks. Answer: is the aei seeing ignition? you can test the aei by putting power straight off the battery to the correct plug - as mentioned in the diagram in haynes manual. |
| ID: 7240 | Date: 21/09/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: 28 psi Question: hi wiz ,i just bought a 5 for parts the guy said it had a he5b turbo fitted by gt tuning plus head and carb work and dino at 225 bhp at 28psi the a/r on the exhaust side of the turbo is .47 would all this be right the car starts and runs good icant drive it because and all the brakes have been removed ,i need the engine for my good car hope you can help Answer: its alot of boost for 225bhp.... if the turbo and engine seem ok, you may as well fit it. the turbo will be fine. |
| ID: 7244 | Date: 22/09/10 | Member: chris290582 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: aftermarket alarm immobiliser Question: hello, im still struggling with starting the car, i have got a spark on the king lead but upon further inspection of the carburettor i noticed that it isnt getting any fuel through the petrol feed pipe, i have cut out the old alarm immobiliser and i have run a positive feed from the battery to the fuel pump, low and behold fuel pouring out the feed, could it be the relay thats faulty? is there a way to test the relay? or is it just a wire ive missed somewhere that would have isolated the fuel supply from the old immobiliser? many thanks. Answer: have you found the fuel pump relay? check the wires, one should come on with ign positive.... |
| ID: 7246 | Date: 23/09/10 | Member: chris290582 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: re; fuel pump relay Question: found the fuel pump relay, its a black cartier relay about 2" long and 1"x1" square, the positive feed to it looks like its been cut here and there i havent began to take the dash out to see what other wires have been changed yet. shall i just run a fresh positive feed to the ignition from the relay? will that work? many thanks Answer: the fuel pump relay is 2 x 3 pin...are you sure you have the correct one? ign positive to the fuel pump relay will be fine... |
| ID: 7245 | Date: 23/09/10 | Member: adeel_gt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Problem with accelerator pedal? Question: Dear Mr Wizard can you please tell me joy to remove my pedal assembly as the damn accelerator seems to be sticking, causing the car to over rev. The cable seems fine when reving the car from the carb. Answer: shorten the carb spring to give it more tension. also check the acclerator pump mech isnt catching on any breather pipes under the carb. also check the cable outer sheath isnt catching the inner cable where its clamped at the carb.... |
| ID: 7247 | Date: 23/09/10 | Member: chris290582 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: carburettor jet sizes Question: hi, i have been reading about other peoples experiences with rejetting thier carburettors to suit their needs on various r5 sites, i have a standard t2 turbocharger and a double capacity alloy intercooler and k&n induction filter with a big alloy radiator no other modification to the engine or carburettor. if i run max boost on this turbo unit which size main jet do i change? also do you need to change the air corrector jet or is that fine at standard with this set up. also is running max boost safe with this setup? many thanks for your kind help so far friend. Answer: what is 'max boost' in your mind? you dont wanna run more than about 14psi at the manifold with the std t2. the std carb should fuel ok for this. |