| ID: 7186 | Date: 11/07/10 | Member: mcburney.lee | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: drivers seat bolster Question: how do you replace the bolster and material on the seats? Answer: take the seat out of the car. then you need to undo the small triangular bent pieces of metal that hold the meterial onto the frame. then pull the bolsters off. |
| ID: 7187 | Date: 11/07/10 | Member: mcburney.lee | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: anti perc fan Question: Just bought my R5 Raider, is it advisable to fit a perc fan? I see some people remove them, why? If not fitted how do you overcome the hot starting problems? Answer: if the car is standard, then yes most r5 gtt's need a perc fan. if you are running a fettled carb, then no, they will start without it. |
| ID: 7188 | Date: 12/07/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: iner cill Question: hi wiz thanks for your help so far. i am cutting of the rotten drivers cill to replace it but the bottom of the inner cill is very rusty and rotten where the outer cill was welded to it the rest of the inner cill is spotless ,what would be the best way of repairing this as i dont want to cut it out if possible ,i couldnt find anything on the site about this.thank you Answer: when you cut out the outer sill, weld a new lower inner section on the inside of the inner sill - use a strip. the outer sill can then butt up to that. |
| ID: 7189 | Date: 14/07/10 | Member: Tim B | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Torque setting Question: Can you tell me what torque setting is best for fitting a uprated head gasket with 12.9 head bolts. Answer: haynes says 60nm.... most people i know use 70nm |
| ID: 7190 | Date: 15/07/10 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Wheel bearing Question: I recently changed my front passenger side wheel bearing. I used an old hub carrier I had spare and had a new bearing pressed in then got it to the car took the old carrier off and replaced it with the one I had the new bearing put in. On completion I started her up to go for a test run then as I pulled away it felt like the bRakes where stuck on. After closer investigation only managed to turn the wheel(with new bearing in) when I had loosened the drive shaft nut. Help !!! Answer: are you sure the bearing has been fitted correctly? the shaft should only really be in contact with the hub part that pushes through the centre of the bearing. you may have to take it off and compare with your old one..... very closely |
| ID: 7191 | Date: 18/07/10 | Member: GILOR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fueling Question: im running standard turbo and want to run 18psi does the carb needle need drilling to 2mm Answer: the turbo will have a short, but glorious life. lol at 18psi on a standard cam, you can use a standard needle jet. you will need to make either your main jet or your 2nd stage enricher larger. |
| ID: 7192 | Date: 19/07/10 | Member: GILOR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fueling Question: thanks for that so at 18psi the jet to be at about 135 140 would you say Answer: yes, thats exactly the sort of size id be thinking of. but you should really use an afr meter to see whats happening at full boost. |
| ID: 7193 | Date: 20/07/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: kits Question: hi wiz,im doing a full body restoration on my r5gtt i am going to fit a dimma or skeet kit do you know where i can buy it from and roughly what should i pay .hope you can help, cheers. Answer: besides the obvious second hand route, id be inclined to look at some of the foreign sites and see if they still do kits for the gtt. unfortunately most dimma/skeete style kits stopped being popular in this country 10-15years ago |
| ID: 7195 | Date: 23/07/10 | Member: PAUL1985PAUL | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fitting pipes to carb Question: can you please help im just re-fitting my carb and on the right side were the turbo is i have no problem but on the left hand side i dont know if ive got all the pipes in the right place. iv got the one with the T piece going from the lobster to the 1st nipple below it then the pipe thats on its own iv got going to the 2nd at the very bottom of the carb. Answer: ok, i have no idea what you are trying to tell me. you have a fuel pipe going into the top of the float chamber section of the carb - brass hose tail, 12mm flats on it. then you have a single carb connection that has two T pieces off it. one connection goes to the accelerator pump brass hose tail - has 4 screws holding it onto the carb. one goes to the boost gauge connection on the bulkhead. the final one goes to the fuel pressure regulator. |
| ID: 7196 | Date: 23/07/10 | Member: GILOR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fuel Question: hi i have decided to run t25 what size should the jet be drilled to and also wots the gap on spark plug best set at thanks Answer: leave the spark plugs alone. they are preset. wat boost u gonna run? |
| ID: 7197 | Date: 23/07/10 | Member: mcburney.lee | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: heating vents Question: The heating vents for the windscreen blow out hot air regardless of the setting of the heating control, the fan works ok, is this right or could it be that the flap is stuck or is disconnected???? Answer: remove the heater control panel off the facia, and see that the cable is connected correctly and the inner moves correctly. then check in the passenger footwell area next to the heater matrix water pipes, i think the cables connect around there. |
| ID: 7199 | Date: 23/07/10 | Member: Slim | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: carry's on accelerating Question: Hi wiz.. this prob is doing my nut in! If i accelerate hard(foot down) specially in first gear, as the boost kicks in and gets to high revs, if i were to let go of the accelerator, the car still accelerates for about nearly a second. As if there is more boost in the system for some reason. can it have anything to do with an oversized air filter pipe compared to the rest of the boost circuit??? or how about the turbo? it is a t28 but the rear has been changed to a machined out t2 .35 or somthin?? not too sure if that has anything to do with it.. I've checked all accelerator/throttle linkages.. they seem fine.. its as if there is still air in the boost circuit or somthin.. :P Answer: whoop whoop idiot alert! do you know how a petrol engine works? the throttle plate stops air and fuel entering the engine...so how can it keep accelerating with your accelerator pedal released - cos the throttle plate will be shut.... 2 scenarios are possible. 1) your accelerator cable return spring isnt strong enough. - so chop a few coils off it to shorten it. 2) your accelerator cable has the crap plastic outer sheath which is catching the inner cable just where you clamp it at the carb end. if you really wanna rule out the accelerator cable, take it off the carb end totally and use a long piece of string to control the throttle and feed it through the window. (also check the accelerator pump linkage isnt catching on the breather pipe under the carb!) |
| ID: 7198 | Date: 23/07/10 | Member: GILOR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fuel Question: hopefully around 18-20 psi thanks wiz Answer: you need an AFR meter mate, but you are looking at a smaller air corrector and a larger main jet or 2nd stage enricher. |
| ID: 7200 | Date: 24/07/10 | Member: garya | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Manuel fan switch Question: What is the best way to wire up a manuel fan switch without frying the battery. Answer: you shouldnt really need to wire up a manual fan switch if you have a thermostat and a low temp rad fan switch fitted. if you did want to wire one up, you'd need to find an ignition live from under the dash, put a switch on it and then send the wire down to the positive side of the rad fan.- you can put it in the plug banana plug connection if you want. - so that way you still get the rad fan switch working...or the manual fan switch |
| ID: 7201 | Date: 25/07/10 | Member: jesus in the seat of a 5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: clio gearbox Question: Hi wiz , will the clio box fit a standard r5gtt?, i mean the old clio..ie mk1 or williams?, if so what are the advantages if any at all?, many thanks , matty. Answer: they will fit, no advantage though in strength. maybe shorter ratios with the williams one. |
| ID: 7202 | Date: 25/07/10 | Member: GILOR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: general Question: thanks alot wizard you have been very helpful i do have an afr so all should be good cheers Answer: good man |
| ID: 7203 | Date: 25/07/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: jets Question: hi wiz,i took your advice and removed my grp a carb and fitted my standard carb back on but before fitting i stripped it down an checked jet sizes with micro drill bits the main jet is 130 and the ac jet is 1mm , im running 16 psi boost with cup mode ,im waiting to purchase an afr meter would it be ok to drive the car with this set up untill i get and fit the meter i have a grp a gasket and head bolts and t2 turbo . thanks Answer: yes it will be fine. |
| ID: 7204 | Date: 27/07/10 | Member: GILOR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: oil Question: what engine oil and gear oil do you recommend for the 5 Answer: 15w50 or 10w60 engine oil. 75/80 or 75/90 gearbox oil. |
| ID: 7205 | Date: 28/07/10 | Member: PAUL1985PAUL | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: rusting bad Question: hi wiz, i just went to jack my car up on the drivers side and the jack bent up all the jacking up point. i then took off all the skirting and found my sills have rusted nearly the whole way along but really bad at the front near the wheel arch. ive now taken all the bumpers off and the front is fine but the back at the fixing points on the side ive again got bad rust. what can i do to sort this i dont wana get rid of the car and i dont know were to buy new sills from eva please can you help. Answer: dare i say,,,,try renault, or gt-turbo-spares. they should have stock. |
| ID: 7206 | Date: 29/07/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: rover t25 onto renault 5 Question: hi wizard, can you tell me what i need to do to make a rover 220 t25 fit my renault 5???? thankyou Answer: you need a blanking plate, some sealant, a drill, and some new studs. you then need to rotate the housings and drill new holes for the wastegate bracket. also need to block the recirc dump valve. |
| ID: 7207 | Date: 29/07/10 | Member: tungyGTturbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: plastic teeth chewed on ratchet on clutch pedal Question: Hi,Is there an uprated clutch pedal and cable you can buy to fit on the r5 gt turbo? Mine has chewed the teeth on the plastic ratchet on the clutch pedal twice and snapped two genuine clutch cables,also is it possible to fit clutch release fork off a volvo 440 1.7 turbo to improve the bite and feel of the clutch? Answer: http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4732 no uprated pedal is available. it is best to use the oe cable too. maybe you are routing it incorrectly? |
| ID: 7208 | Date: 29/07/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: stage 1 turbo ? Question: hi wiz i bought a turbo and the company said it was a stage 1, it looks the same as my standard t2 but the oil feed is a bit larger , what are the differences between the so called stage 1 t2 and standard t2 or is it just sales gargon . cheers Answer: look at the sizes of the inlet blades..... stage 1 will be a bit bigger. |
| ID: 7209 | Date: 31/07/10 | Member: metalmorf customs | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: rebuild engine Question: hi wizard, thanks for the advice on the turbo, i welded the triangle hole and drilled new holes and its sweet, next question; im rebuilding a spare engine and just wonderd if i need to replace the timing chain with an uprated 1 or will it take the strain, i was hoping to push around 250 bhp, also is there any need to uprate anything else at that power? cheers Answer: no need to uprate the chain, just buy a new one. id always advise fitting new oil pump internals. you will need an uprated clutch - probably a paddle clutch at the power level. |
| ID: 7210 | Date: 01/08/10 | Member: philg | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: lowering tortion bar Question: lowering tortion bar Answer: or do you mean torsion bar? |
| ID: 7211 | Date: 01/08/10 | Member: GILOR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: misfire Question: hi wiz i finally got the 5 running but it seems to be misfiring slightly could this have something to do with the mixture as i have drilled carb needle it seems fine when revved up but lumpy when idle what is the best way to go about it cheers Answer: try richening up the mixture via the mixture screw. also test for air leaks... |
| ID: 7212 | Date: 03/08/10 | Member: leesaunders1981 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: starter motor wiring routing Question: Hi, what is the best route for the main power lead that goes to the starter motor??my battery is on the n/s and the lead is bolted to the back of the block and then in to the starter, but mine is very close to the downpipe? have i routed this right?? cheers Lee Answer: yes, this is correct. it does go close to the block and the exhaust downpipe! - hence why its covered in thick insulation. :) |
| ID: 7214 | Date: 09/08/10 | Member: tigger turbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: ignition lights flicker/come on at low rpm Question: my ignition ligths will come on or flicker when engine rpm is under 2200rpm or is on idle,tick over Answer: check the earths and connections of the clocks. |
| ID: 7213 | Date: 09/08/10 | Member: VALE46 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: paint codes Question: Can you tell me where I can get a list of all the paint codes for the phase 2 gtt, I have a tungey grey in restoration (bare shell now) and may re-paint in either electric blue or white , I need the codes, can you help? Answer: you need to ask the member called 'the master' he will know. :) |
| ID: 7215 | Date: 12/08/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: t3 actuator Question: is there any difference between a normal t3 and a k tec t3 actuator. If so whats the difference and whats best. Answer: i thought the ktec one was similar to the collins type, ie it is repairable. id probably be inclined to stick with the t3 one (sorry david)only cos its cheaper ;) |
| ID: 7216 | Date: 14/08/10 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Breather Question: Hey wiz. I've rebuilt my engine with new shells and rings and all. Since I've been driving for the last few months have noticed the breather system is quite noisy on idle I don't think I have all the ristrictors in place. I run a cone filter and a small breather filter. Thing is my mate runs the same set up without any ristrictors and is not nearly as loud as mine. What would you suggest. Answer: remember there is a 1.7mm restrictor in the pipe from the manifold one way valve to the T piece next to the rocker cover. -that will cause a loud sucking noise if its missing. |