| ID: 7153 | Date: 30/05/10 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Smoke Question: Cheers for quick response mate. Problem is car has no mot so are unable to get it somewhere to get my carb sorted but it def won't go through a mot smoking like it does. Is there any thing I can do myself to get through the mot like a rough set up it's a standard carb that I overhauled also only has a turbo technics stage 1 hybrid standard boost. Thanks wiz. Answer: well, just make sure that its got standard jets in the carb. - use micro drill bits to find out. 120main jet 125 air corrector 100 1st stage enrichment also make sure the enrichment circuit air breather isnt leaking fuel, or someone has blocked it up with a bolt, or the pipe to it isnt attached to something else. |
| ID: 7154 | Date: 30/05/10 | Member: ross009 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: 4 deg advance and 16psi? Question: Hi im wondering how to fuel best for 16 psi of boost with the tdc wires swapped? or if i can even run that much boost? i know i will always have to run on optimax/ultimate fuel. I will be using a standard t2 turbo and a double capacity intercooler. Thanks Answer: it is possible, but you may have to listen for detonation. also - what is your head depth - too thin and it will cause problems. assuming you are running a standard carb, then you'd be wise to enlarge the 2nd stage enricher to a 120, or even for simplicities sake put a 125 or 130 main jet in. you would also have to use an AFR meter. |
| ID: 7155 | Date: 31/05/10 | Member: JIMMY B | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fuel Question: not realli to fussed on where it goes. all i need it to do is fill it from inside the boot dont need the tank in the car. i thought i could drill a hole in the reserve tank and put a new piece of pipe in is this possible? thanks Answer: i'd probably advise against drilling holes in the reserve tank. best modify the fuel filler neck, by using tubing and jubilee clips and fitting a filler cap in the drivers side 'cubby hole'. |
| ID: 7156 | Date: 01/06/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: intercooler piping Question: hi wiz im doing the b18ft conversion as you prob know. my problem is now the intercooler piping. im using a t2/25 turbo so that has roughly a 2"(50mm) outlet and a throttle body is 2.75"(70mm) externally and has a 52mm(2"ish) butterfly. I was planing to run 2.5" pipework with a reducer for the turbo and an enlarger for the tb, but some people have told me that the pipe should be larger than the tb butterfly and some say smaller what do you think? im only looking at running 18psi boost but want to make it as efficient as poss. Also as the throttle body and the turbo are on the same side of the engine bay i was thinking of using a front mount with the inlet and outlet on the same side something like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-FRONT-MOUNT-INTERCOOLER-200SX-S13-S14-S15-SR-/160436015730?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item255abb5272 but with the correct size inlet and outlet. but i didnt know if it would flow the air through as well as a straight through intercooler http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LARGE-UNIVERSAL-INTERCOOLER-63MM-2-5-PIPEWORK-KIT-/120571060884?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c12986294 with the piping coming back round? I know its a long boring post but its the only way i could explain it properly lol any help would be ace. cheers wiz Answer: most cars i've ever seen that have come off the production line tend to have a smaller throttle body than pipework?? as for the intercooler - i'd imagine that no matter what you are gonna come back to the same side of the engine bay. in that case, id probably go for the first intercooler. purely because although straight through is more efficient, however then you are planning to put a pipe back on itself to bring it back round - so you might as well have an intercooler than brings the air back round whilst cooling it! |
| ID: 7158 | Date: 02/06/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: grp a carb Question: hi wiz thanks for the help with the grp a carb i would like to get 180 to200 bhp from my car what would be the best setup and turbo upgrade to achieve this im budgeting £1500 to do this i have allready uprated the brakes and the suspension engine is next . thanks very much,your help is very much apereciated Answer: ok, you may have to lower your power ambitions, depending how you like your car to drive. - if you like giving the car a quick blat on short roads, go for a t25/t2, which comes on boost only slightly later than a standard t2/t2 turbo. - you need to get an AFR meter to fiddle with the boost and the fuelling. for bigger power, you will need to go for a t28/t25, which unfortunately will leave you alittle laggy on the boost. it should be easily within the £1500 range. |
| ID: 7159 | Date: 04/06/10 | Member: NayJ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: oil cooler fitting Question: im tryin to fit a mocal oil cooler its got braided lines and the thermostat built into the sandwich plate, do i keep the original sandwich plate and lines and fit the new ontop of it or replace them with the new because im having clearance issues with the thermostat on the bracket underneath sandwich plate and the lines on the engine block? Answer: ditch the old sandwich plate. then cut/grind a section out of the bracket the thermostat is catching on. |
| ID: 7160 | Date: 04/06/10 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Carb Question: Hi wiz. Managed to stop car smoking was missing torpedo in idle jet. Only thing is when cars idling revs seem to be stable then drop until it nearly conks out then you seem to get to small pops coming from carb sounds like air being pushed out then rise back to were they were. also when reved the revs drop quit slowly what could possibly cause these issues. Cheers mate. Answer: richen the idle up via the idle mixture screw. see if that helps. |
| ID: 7161 | Date: 06/06/10 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Bleeding Question: Hello again wiz. One of the plastic pipes that comes out the bottom of the resovior was melted in a small incident. I've since replaced this. Will I need to bleed the system? If so bummer both nipples on pas side are buggered. Cheers again mate. Answer: i think you might have got away with it. the pipe lower down still had fluid in it.... so it wouldnt have let air into the system. |
| ID: 7162 | Date: 07/06/10 | Member: 1.7r5gtturbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fuel pipe set up Question: hi wiz. im in middle of doing the volvo 440 convershon got it sparking and piped up the only thing i need to no is how i pipe up my fuel rail. do i take the maine feed for the c1j carb to the intake on the rail. but where do i take the return pipe to ? there is a regulater just under the brake survo do i still need this if so how do i pipe it up . thanks wiz wiz Answer: llok at haynes manual for the 5, there is a clear picture of the piping to the fuel pressure regulator. the car does run a return to the tank, just join with the return from the fuel pressure reg on the rail. |
| ID: 7164 | Date: 08/06/10 | Member: R5GT-GOO | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: running, idle!!!!! help Question: hi wiz i recentley melted a piston and cracked a liner, i have rebuilt the engine. i have done a compression test- thats fine. iv got an issue with the car it wont idle below 1500rpm it runs smooth and responsive above. i tryed moving the timing sensor to the middle it runs but still wont idle it use to be set up 2 degrees ***ed. by the last tuner! iv have a spare carb i have tryed this, it still wont idlem please help me i am starting to loose the will!!!! i haved checked leads plugs distributor cap rotar arm drive to cam. theres a brass screw on side of carb what does this do?? shold it be screwed tight? thanks tom Answer: the big brass screw is the idle jet, it needs to have a rubber seal round it, or PTFE tape on the thread. check the mixture screw has an O ring on it too, and that the end of it hasnt snapped off in the base of the carb. |
| ID: 7166 | Date: 14/06/10 | Member: lee1707 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Clutch upgrade Question: Could you advice what clutch would be best to fit, i am running 210bhp and my current Valeo clutch had started to slip due to oil leaking onto it from the turbo return hose. I am having trouble finding a dealer that can still supply the Valeo 801015 kit. Thanks Answer: you know that a valeo clutch will still be up for the job, as a paddle clutch may be a little harsh for day to day driving. you just need to find a motorfactor that deals with valeo direct and get them to special order it in for you.... |
| ID: 7167 | Date: 14/06/10 | Member: mattieboy89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: air leak Question: hey wiz i changed all brakes, discs and lines all round and went to bleed but the nothin happend so i replaced the brake master cylinder and the brakes bled fine, then half mile down the road went to brake and the pedal went soft and i could hear air coming from the padal, any ideas?? cheers Answer: are you sure the reservoir lines into the master cylinder are ok? pump the pedal with the engine off - it should get hard. - then with the pedal pushed start the car. the pedal should drop slightly. if it does this the servo is ok. |
| ID: 7168 | Date: 15/06/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: boost Question: hi wiz ineed to fit boost gauge what make and type should i buy Answer: buy a psi one, the most expensive you can afford. - cheap ones are usually crap. |
| ID: 7163 | Date: 17/06/10 | Member: jose | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: conversion from volvo 480 turbo to renault 5 turbo Question: hi wizard..... how much BHP will the standard cluth from the Volvo 480 1.7 turbo will hold befor it starts spinning and can i put t28 turbo on the standard volvo manifold? Thank you Answer: isnt there a few different manifolds for the volvo turbo? - i think one of them the exhaust housing is built in, the other is removeable. the standard volvo clutch is good for 230bhp |
| ID: 7169 | Date: 18/06/10 | Member: GttGeorge | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: evo 8 intercooler Question: what pipping would i need to fit one of these intercoolers behind my front bumper, and will it be a tight squeeze to fit it in there ? cheers Answer: what are the dimensions of the cooler - i don't know off hand. i'd imagine that you need to do a bit of cutting here and there to get it to fit. |
| ID: 7165 | Date: 20/06/10 | Member: walters300 | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: setting up boost/ fueling f7r Question: hi, i have an f7r with forged bits and t28,and a fuel pressure regulator, 2 bar map sensor and bb tuning low boost chip. it doesnt seem to be running correctly. thought about cleaning the injectors maybe. also considering fitting a permenant air fuel ratio gauge. will this help with tuning? i.e use the fpr to tweak? I have a vacuum hose from the fuel rail to top of fpr then on to turbo. i removed the electronic boost gauge as i would prefer manual. will one of those on ebay do the job with a boost gauge. THANKS!!! Answer: Hi, You need to be super carefull with fueling as I'm sure you know already. Going too lean will see it off in no time. So yes, AFR gauge will help you keep and eye on what's happening as well as help you set the car up. Have a look in the group buys section, you might find a good deal on AEM wideband gauges :-) Regards the rough running, most likely just poor fueling. The off-the-shelf chips were never great, you can imagine that they are not half as good as having the car mapped properly. You might be able to improve things by adjusting the FPR but beware that an adjustment here will affect the fueling everywhere, even on boost, so you have to be carefull. Regards your pipe work, you'll want a vac pipe from the manifold to the FPR and a vac pipe from the manifold to the MAP sensor. I'm not sure what you ment when you said it was going to the turbo as well. I hope you didn't mean actuator, because that would be very wrong. Actuator needs connecting up BEFORE the throttle, not to the manifold. Good luck, Wiz. |
| ID: 7170 | Date: 21/06/10 | Member: Yammer5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Petrol in my intercooler Question: Hey Wiz Ive just bought a new GTTurbo P2, and i decided to take the intercooler off because it wasnt as neat as id like it. when i had it out i heard something sloshing inside, so i turned it upside down and about 2-3 eggcups worth of petrol came out! Any ideas as to why my carb is spewing petroleum? Answer: check that the one way valve on the back of the manifold is still acting one way. i think it maybe stuck open and you are pushing petrol vapour into the inlet of the turbo. |
| ID: 7171 | Date: 21/06/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: rear brakes Question: hi wiz are the rear brakes on a citroen xantia hdi and peugeot 206 the same as on the 5 gtt as they look the same as my own bleed nipples are broke off if they were id get a set at the breakers Answer: yes they are the same! saxos too.... |
| ID: 7172 | Date: 22/06/10 | Member: Phil W | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Speedo Question: Stopped working any ideas? Answer: take the round connector apart in the engine pay and sqeeze the round metal parts of the connectors together witha screwdriver then plug it back together. either that or clean up the contacts at the back of the clocks. |
| ID: 7173 | Date: 26/06/10 | Member: JIB | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Not Starting? Question: Hi Wiz, I have what could be a simple question for you? I have just had my engine re-built (except the carb) I drove it home yesterday for the first time. It has been off the road for years. It starts & runs reasonably well considering how long its been since it was last used & nothing has been set up or run-in since it's been rebuilt. My driveway at home is quite steep. I parked it on there last night to continue working on it at home. Once I had finished I went to go & start it & it wouldnt fire-up! It was turning over & I could smell petrol & see a slight bit of smoke. I then toed it to the top of the driveway witch is more level ground & it started first time! Any ideas or thoughts? Many Thanks Answer: fill it with more fuel..... |
| ID: 7174 | Date: 27/06/10 | Member: adeel_gt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Speedo/rev counter Question: Hi, Mr wizard my speedo and rev counter don't seem to be working, but every thing else seems to be fine....... Any ideas please? Answer: speedo is controlled by the electronic speedo sensor in the gearbox, but the revs are taken from the aei unit. so my best guess is that you may have an earthing or connection problem on the back of the clocks, or you may need some more clocks... |
| ID: 7175 | Date: 28/06/10 | Member: JIB | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fill it with more fuel.......? Question: It already had half a tank full! Answer: i might be a fuel pick up problem - remove the sender unit and see if its blocked or broken. when did u last change ur fuel filter? |
| ID: 7176 | Date: 30/06/10 | Member: Fuzzybubble | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Taking ages to start Question: Hi Wizard, My apologies if this is a repeat of another question but I've searched the archive and can't see anything the same. My R5 has recently begun suffering from taking a long time to start. By this I mean that you have to turn the engine over for a good 2 mins before you even begin to get a 'splutter'. It then takes another minute or so before it sounds like it's starting, but any touching of the throttle will kill any firing. Another few tries and it will start and stay started quite happily. If I switch it off and try starting it again, it's fine. However, if I leave it for a day or so and try again, it's the same deal. The most recent changes I've done is to fit a 2mm float chamber needle jet to eliminate it holding back in 3rd gear on boost (which works, thank you for your suggestion previously!) and I've fitted a water injection kit. The spray from the WI kit doesn't start until high boost but I did make the mistake of initially using normal water rather than distilled. Could I have screwed up the carb by depositing chalky residue inside it or something? Any help or advice would be very much appreciated! Many thanks in advance. Cheers, Sam Answer: check your accelerator pump jet is still operating correctly. 3 squirts when cold, should start the car straight away... |
| ID: 7177 | Date: 30/06/10 | Member: wolvo | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: boost controler and spider fitment Question: I want to fit a boost controller to up the boost a little on occasion but also want to fit a spider valve to prevent me over boosting......can you point me anywhere which will show me how to pipe up the spider,boost controller and the more accurate boost gauge i have please (i only want a small increase in boost pressure so i dont see fueling an issue too much as i will set car up once fitted).....many thanks mart Answer: i wouldnt bother with the spider valve, the boost controller will be fine - im assuming you are gonna use a PRV type ball valve and not just a bleed valve? if you buy one new, they always have a diagram with them. there are also plenty of diagrams on the net... |
| ID: 7178 | Date: 30/06/10 | Member: JIB | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Fuel Question: hi Wiz, It had a new fuel filter several days before this happened and it has also had a new feulsender unit in the tank. Answer: ok, the simple way to test this, it to attach a clear pipe to the fuel line into the carb, then when you leave it, try and start it, but look at the pipe, to see if you get fuel through. it could be a dodgy fuel reg... |
| ID: 7181 | Date: 01/07/10 | Member: caprinis | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: -blank- Question: hi wiz i bought a secondhand turbo and the oil feed union was missing i tried to use the one on my old turbo but it was to small, any way round this , they are both t2 .one more question , is it possible to fit a ph1 coolnt expansion tank on to a ph2 i bought a new ph1 tank and didnt know it only has i larger outlet instead of 2 my car is ph1 with ph2 engine. hope u can help meny thanks Answer: as you have just found out there are 2 fitments to the standard gtt t2 turbo. only way is to get the correct oil feed. as for the ph2-ph1 tank, once again, you would need to run the ph1 water system, so ur better off sellin the new tank and getting the correct one. |
| ID: 7182 | Date: 04/07/10 | Member: adamwallace1989 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Manifold to turbo blowing Question: Hi wizard, my turbo has started blowing from where it mates to the manifold, ive noticed that the recirc valve is hard working and loss of power. would all this be linked. b18ft engine t2 turbo cheers Answer: its not going to help is it? you can buy a seal for it from most turbo reman places. some other people use exhaust paste to seal it. |
| ID: 7183 | Date: 04/07/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fueling Question: i have a 285 piper cam and a t28 turbo and want to run 18psi on a standard carb can you tell me what jet sizes i need and do i need to drill out the brass bush on the side of the carb. Answer: i would really really recommend using an AFR meter to get the fuelling correct. some say a 100 AC and a 1.2 second stage will suffice. but u'd need the afr meter to check |
| ID: 7184 | Date: 08/07/10 | Member: Jamie Eddolls | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: overheating Question: hi wizard, im having a problem with overheating (not suprisingly lol) i swapped the rad switch over from my other 5 and it fixed the problem of the fan not cutting in. i ordered the replacement part and the fan didn't cut in, so i assumed that the new rad switch was faulty and ordered another one, but the second one didn't work either. and they look identical so it's the same part. could anything else have broke for this to happen? Answer: have u checked the relay by the alt? |
| ID: 7185 | Date: 08/07/10 | Member: mike r5 gtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: front brake's Question: were the standard front disc's vented or solid?? were the calipers diffrent to non turbo models?(wider to allow for the wider disc's)? Answer: standard gtt are vented. the calipers are different to account for the extra width |