| ID: 7056 | Date: 12/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: volvo turbo Question: hello again wiz i have another question for ta! you mentioned the volvo engine would be good with a t28 but what about a vnt turbo? Is there any i can take off i.e. audi a3 etc...? would the one on this forum for sale be any good? cheers wiz! Answer: I dont know about VNT's I'm afraid. I'm sure it's do-able but I wouldnt bother. The Volvo has plenty of torque at low RPM's unlike the C1J, so trying to increase that torque further is only going to help get your gearbox in to the scrap heap. Wiz |
| ID: 7060 | Date: 13/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: volvo turbo Question: clocking as you mentioned is that some thing that i can do or dose it require pinpoint accuracy and balancing etc... Answer: no need for balancing, as you are just twisting the housings around. you are not touching the central shaft or wheels. |
| ID: 7061 | Date: 14/02/10 | Member: adgtt2010 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: doors Question: are phase 1 doors diffrent Answer: nope, they are exactly the same size etc etc. |
| ID: 7063 | Date: 15/02/10 | Member: Leigh5T | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Mixture screw problem Question: Just rebuilt my carb after the mixture screw had snapped Put new mixture screw in and built it back up. The problem is that when setting mixture at idle, the mixture screw has to be wound all the way out. When afr's at 15 (according to my lc-1) the mixture screw is on its last threads! to the point where i can move it side to side! Even though the idle feels good and better than ever. I've checked for manifold for leaks as suggested on the boards. Anything you can recommend? Just to add. When driving, the afr's are as follows Just under 15 @ 900rpm idle Very light throttle 16 !!???? light acceleration 12-13 WOT 14 = Pinking!!!!!!!! Cheers Wiz! Answer: are you sure you have calibrated your LC1 correctly? justa thought. as for your mixture screw, check that you havent got a 44 idle jet. - make sure you have a 45 idle jet. - this allows you to screw the mixture screw in a bit as its the fine adjustment to the idle jet itself. |
| ID: 7064 | Date: 16/02/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: accelarator pump Question: does the pump jet have to spray directly down the throat of the venturi mine sprays down the wall of the venturi would this make my car hod back on boost. ive noticed on the boards that a 5mm jobby is mentioned to set acc pump can you explain it to me please. thanx. Answer: the accelerator pump jet squirt of fuel usually bounces off the venturi wall, so that it breaks up into a spray. - it only comes on when you press the accelerator - not when you come on boost. if your car is 'holding back' are you sure you dont need a bigger 2nd stage enricher or even try a larger main, just to check. the 5mm gap is to do with the distance the throttle has to move before the accelerator pump activates. |
| ID: 7062 | Date: 16/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: volvo engine Question: hello again wiz i have a few more questions for ya! will m r5 flywheel be ok for the volvo? i have seen lots of people use a volvo 440 clutch for the 5 as an upgrade is this just a standard 440 clutch? I have been thinking of fitting a torsion lsd how much difference would this make to the handling i.e. is it worth it if so is there any other cars that share the same diff! thanks again! Answer: you will need the volvo flywheel, as it has different number of teeth. - so you will need to use it if you are using the volvo injection system etc etc. not sure about the torson LSD. - do you mean the one off the Fiat coupe 20v turbo? |
| ID: 7066 | Date: 18/02/10 | Member: jose | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: gear box Question: i wish to get a more top speed out on my renault 5 gt turbo and i was woundering if i can put the gear box of one of the following in to it, renault 19-jb3044, renault clio 16v jb3048 or the renault clio willims 16v jb5014 the 1.8 or the 2lt. Also my car runs at 250 bhp at flow wheel and i would like to know which size jets i should use cause the jets i'm using at the moment is drinking alot of fuel and jet's i have are 1.2 and 1.7 and i just thinking that it's too big. Answer: you can put all of those boxes on, but the speedo will not work as they are cable drive i think. the 21t one will not work. you might wanna look at the volvo 440 and 480 turbo units - m59 especially. these i think will give you a higher top speed. as for the jets, you will have to use an AFR meter to be certain of things. what are your exact jet sizes and venturi so far? |
| ID: 7068 | Date: 19/02/10 | Member: Joe Heath | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: AFR Lc1 problem Question: Has been working fine for 1200 miles. Had to disconnect o2 sensor to run through the bulkhead, re-calibrated the heater and free air now works for five minutes and then flashes 7.4. The led flashes error 8 which is possible faulty sensor or sensor too hot. The sensor is about 8" from turbo at about 11 0 clock is this too close? Do i need to make a heat sink? New sensor? Answer: best try a new sensor mate. they don't seem to last too long do they? - problems with LC1 or the wide band sensors?- i'd guess the LC1. - however the o2 sensors dont like moisture! - be warned. |
| ID: 7069 | Date: 21/02/10 | Member: james(poodlespanels) | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: speedo cable Question: hi i was just woundering the tdc sensor is for the tacho but where is the speedo sensor conected to in the engine bay Answer: the speedo sensor is under the starter motor, kind of above the drive shaft. use a 6mm allen key to remove the clip. |
| ID: 7070 | Date: 22/02/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: brake problem Question: hello wzard i changed all my brake lines all round and front and rear calipers got it all bleed great brakes worked great for about 2 weeks went out in it today and the brakes were sh1t very spongy pedel checked all joints unions rubber hoses bleed nipples even the overload sensor there is no sighn of leaks any were not lost any fluid its still toped up to the line. re bleed it no air bubbles did a pedel test for servo thats ok aswell. when cars running spongy pedel when cars turned of the pedel gets a bit harder. any ideas. Answer: you might have air trapped inside the load valve. try bleeding again, starting with the furthest nipple from the master cylinder. whilst bleeding the back brakes- wiggle the load bar on the brake bias unit, so get the air out of the unit. hopefully this will sort it. |
| ID: 7067 | Date: 22/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: t25 t28 Question: i have pretty much decided on a t25 for the volvo engine when i get the cash rather than a t28 as i like my boost early but do you think this will still get to 230 bhp with all the other mods? Also i know the outlet on my t2/t25 is 2" so i assume a full t25 is the same size but what is the outlet size on the t28? I was thinking of getting an intercooler with 2.5" pipe work will this also fit the t28? cheers wiz! Answer: Maybe 200hp is a better goal for the T25, that should be pretty easy to do at about 20psi. T25 is going to struggle to do much more than that I think. Wiz |
| ID: 7065 | Date: 22/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: volvo engine 2 Question: no didnt know what diff to use but thought there might be a diff from another car that might fit to widen my chances of finding one! I have seen torson diffs for 700 quid brand new but cant afford to pay that! Also will the standard volvo 440 clutch be a good upgrade over a r5 clutch? Answer: Yeah, the later 215mm volvo clutch is quite good. Make sure you use the later (after 1991) flywheel (215mm, early ones were 200mm) and then order the later 215mm valeo clutch. Valeo are sometimes hard to find at the moment, so you may have to hunt around. Wiz |
| ID: 7071 | Date: 23/02/10 | Member: HULK | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: acceleration problem Question: Hi Wiz, i still have a problem with my acceleration and hesitation on boost, If i`m in say third gear and put my throttle all the way down to overtake etc it just doesnt pull and almost feels like the carb is flooding or something, however i have notice that in the same situation if i put my foot on the throttle and slowly increase the revs it pulls fine can you give some advice please buddy as its really quite annoying Thanks HULK Answer: change the fuel filter and then change the fuel pump for an uprated one.... it could be the float chamber in the carb emptying too quick! |
| ID: 7072 | Date: 24/02/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: oil breather Question: im running standard carb and T2 at 14psi is a good idea to take out the oil breather pipe from the turbo elbow pipe and feed the pipe to a oil catch tank. With boost turned up do the vapours effect the performance going back in to engine. Answer: yes, its always a worthwhile mod. if you can't strech to a catch tank, just use an oil breather filter on the end of it and block the hole up in the telephone hose. |
| ID: 7073 | Date: 24/02/10 | Member: JohnAldridge101 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: can i weld housing Question: can i weld the the exhaust housing, it has a long crack from inside the compressor housing right through to the waste gate seat, im a shirt hot welder, so i can weld cast but im not sure on the technicalitys of the job Answer: when the exhaust housing gets hot the crack will close up. i bet its on a small t2 0.35 housing? they always crack. has it affected performance at all? basically i wouldnt bother trying to weld it. |
| ID: 7074 | Date: 24/02/10 | Member: HULK | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: acceleration problem 2 Question: Thanks wiz, i will certainly try a new fuel filter, forgot to say i`m only running standard boost, so will a upgraded fuel pump be nessacary?? do you think it could be an accelerator pump problem?? Answer: yes, change the filter first. then drive it. the uprated fuel pump will not be necessary at that boost. it could be the accelerator pump - take the top off the carb and see what happens when you press the accelerator with the engine off. - a long steady stream should bounce off the side of the venturi.... if it dont you could have a split diaphram or that you have a blocked jet. |
| ID: 7076 | Date: 24/02/10 | Member: patrick | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: rear swing arm bush Question: i`m talking about the big rubber bushes on which the rear axle swings!so here goes,according to renault these bushes can`t be replaced and you have to replace the hole arm which costs an arm and a leg by the way especially since i need to replace both sides(about 350 euros)!now i found out that special rubber bearings are available aftermarket and by tearing appart the old moulded rubber and cleaning it out totally you can then press in these bushes,so i went out and bought them!problem is they told me they are for 5 campus and i`m not sure if the campus is equipped with another type of rear axle since when i tried to compare there sizes they didn`t match or rather the outer Dia.. did but the inner did not! so before i ruin my old bushes i would like to know if the pipe`s outer diameter (on which the rubber bush is moulded,and pivots)is diffrent on the gtt from that on the campus? because until i ruin the moulded rubber and clean it out i won`t know! thanks very much for your time. Answer: as far as i'm aware the rear arms are totally different as the gtt uses two torsion bars and the campus uses one per side. |
| ID: 7077 | Date: 24/02/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: turbo pressure pipe on carb Question: at the side of the carb there is a boost pipe connection ive noticed on some cars they dont have this conected is it needed what does it do does it effect performance when not conected. can you loose boost from it. Answer: where are many connections on the carb. where is the one you are talking about? passenger side, or drivers side. - off the carb top or not? - off the enricher circuit ? off the carb base? vac pipe, water pipe or boost pipe? |
| ID: 7075 | Date: 24/02/10 | Member: JohnAldridge101 | Wizard: Adam L |
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Subject: any good? Question: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TURBO-GT28RS-BALL-BEARING-a-roulement-GT28-GARANTIE_W0QQitemZ170448527485QQcmdZViewItemQQptZJG_FR_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces?hash=item27af86207d or http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TURBO-GT25-BALL-BEARING-a-roulement-T25-NEUF-GARANTIE_W0QQitemZ170346528685QQcmdZViewItemQQptZJG_FR_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces?hash=item27a971bfad are these any good do you reckon? ill most probably go for the t25 Answer: They're not genuine turbo's, they're copy items. You should never take the risk of buying a copy rollerbeaing turbo... However, the picture of the GT25 shows a journal bearing core, so they're not even advertising the right product. If they're copy journal bearing turbo's they're only going to be using a standard 270 degree thrust bearing, and that's not going to like substantial boost levels. |
| ID: 7078 | Date: 25/02/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: turbo pressure pipe on carb 2 Question: its brass port on the drivers side of the carb it goes to the double T peice near the standard boost gauge what does it do can i block the T peice of and leave the brass port open. will it effect the carb in any way if left open. Answer: some people leave it open to air and call it 'the doris mod' as Russell Thorpe found it cured his hesitation problems. - i'd personally have boost going to it to equalise pressure to both sides of the diaphram. |
| ID: 7079 | Date: 26/02/10 | Member: CHOD | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: What should i do with engine Question: i have a standard R5 GTT what engine mods should i look to do with £1k now and another £500 in a month or so. The car is going to be for santapod runs and fun drives out. Answer: first thing to do is get a better intercooler. then turn the boost up to 14psi. then get a uprated fuel pump and a t25 turbo. |
| ID: 7080 | Date: 27/02/10 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: second dump valve Question: Hi wiz, Just had my new engine set up on a rolling road and it made 207bhp @ 15psi :-) when driving home i noticed that its got wastegate flutter when coming off the boost? The dump valve diaphram is fine?? Is it worth adding a second dump valve on the intercooler to turbo hose to help with pressure??? Many Thanks, Ben Answer: check that your vacuum pipe to the dump valve is ok first. also check that your dv isnt leaking by sucking the vacuum connection on the back of it. - was it making this noise before? if not you need to check vac hoses for leaks. a 2nd d/v might not need to be fitted - certainly not at 15psi anyway. |
| ID: 7081 | Date: 02/03/10 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Wont start Question: Morning wiz. over the past 3 month i have had my car running but not brilliant. however ther past week it wont start at all. it started missing so i replaced the leads plugs cap and arm. it was ok for the day then it wont start at all. it turns over fine. i have put all the original leads etc back in and checked them all. I have a spark on all plugs/ leads and have fuel upto the carb. my timing was slightly out but have sorted that but for some reason the firing order on my car is back to front. i.e No1 lead goes to piston 4 from the flywheel etc. if i put the leads in as they should it just sits there popping at me and wont start.. sorry for the essay.. Answer: have you wet the plugs? usually starting problems are tdc sensor related...however.... with the flywheel at tdc...where does your rotor arm point? - towards the engine or towards the radiator? ignore haynes..they have the sequence wrong. if the rotor arm is towards the rad, then the dizzy cap connection closest to the rocker cover goes to the plug no.1 closest to the waterpump. then clockwise 3-4-2 with 4 plug being closest to the gearbox. see if that works |
| ID: 7082 | Date: 02/03/10 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: wont start Question: Wiz i have the leads the way round that you said but doesnt make any difference. what do you mean by wet plugs? how can i check the tdc to see if it as fault Answer: if you wet the plugs with petrol they won't like sparking. a faulty tdc sensor can still spark, but it may spark incorrectly. also try starting the car by removing the top boost hose, and spraying something flamable down the carb top. |
| ID: 7083 | Date: 02/03/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: AEI unit Question: Are AEI UNITS are supposed to be silent when engine is running mine makes a slight ticking noise or air leak you can also hear it from inside the car when i put my ear to the aei and give it a gentle rev you can hear a leak or a ticking with the engine revs there is no sighn of arching even tried another king lead tested diaphram with a foot pump it held at 20psi. when turning up boost or advancing the angle senser theres no pinking either could my AEI unit be knackerd. Answer: there should be no noise from the AEI. try taking the ign unit off the front of it, and see if the connections are ok inside. - either that or try running the car in the dark and have a good look in the scuttle tray for arcing. |
| ID: 7084 | Date: 06/03/10 | Member: Poppy Brady | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: renix re209 / aei / no spark Question: Hello Wiz (again). Suddenly, after a period of fine running, no signs of trouble or low power etc, the car won't start. Turns over fine, just won't start. Have checked, there is no spark on the King lead. Changed lead, still no spark. So, assume the ignition module at fault. Looked at the wizard posts, suspect the aei unit (the black triangular casing in scuttle, inside is the Renix RE209 piece). Everything seems fine inside. No evidence of burning or arcing. Multipin connectors are clean and tight. Wires are good, no breaks. So, I'm wondering. Either the aei/re209 is fecked. Or the relay that feeds power (I guess the relay adjacent to the aei?) is fecked. I replaced that relay, still no spark. Engine immobiliser seems to be disconnected. There is no alarm that is set when leaving the car, no dis-arming of immobiliser required when starting. On previous R5 GTT, the demise of the TDC sensor was preceded by bad running. In this instance, there has been no bad running. My thinking is that either the Renix or the TDC sensor is at fault. If the TDC sensor was failing, I 'd get a spark but have bad running. If the Renix had failed, no spark at all. I've only had a Renix fail on another car, not a Turbo. There, it just died (like here) with no symptoms. I replaced the TDC sensor unit on previous Turbo, gawd wot a horrible job. I don't want to have to do that again. Therefore, dear Wiz, how to check if it's the TDC or Renix unit? without a multi-meter. And, for either of these components, do GSF still carry them? Answer: gsf still carry the tdc lead. it is possible for the tdc sensor to die outright ands its cheaper to do than a replacement aei. its fairly easy if you have a 20cm extension bar with an 11mm socket on the end of it. - that way you get past the turbo and the oil return pipe. you can test the tdc sensor with a multi meter i think - according to haynes? id have thought the relay next to the aei was at fault too.- make sure the relay you replaced the first one with is working.... if the tdc doesnt work then assume the aei is faulty. |
| ID: 7085 | Date: 08/03/10 | Member: Poppy Brady | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: renix re209 / aei / no spark (cont'd...) Question: OK, I have the TDC sensor cable out. What should the readings be, how to test? Presumably the power (low tension) goes in on red and out on white wire? Answer: do you have a haynes manual? i'm sure it mentions it in there. - i haven't got one to hand at the moment. its a hall type sender, so the wires transmit a signal created by the segments of the flywheel acting on the small magnet in the tdc sensors tip.... |
| ID: 7086 | Date: 10/03/10 | Member: Slim | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: valve guides Question: Hello Wizard. How are you? Its ok, you dont have to answer, its a rhetorical question. But you can answer if you want to. I wanted to ask you about my valve guides. My car is originally a phase 1, but the engine has been built a few times, and im pretty sure ive changed the head before from another GTT. Are the valve guides different in phase 2 gtts? where would i get these from, as im guessing if i go to renault and tell them my engine number(ive been told theres 3 types), it wont match anyway as the head is from another 5....? can you help? Answer: not sure if the valve guides are different from ph1 to ph2. although i do know that the casting where the spring sits is different and that ph1's didnt have valve stem oil seals. replacing them is not a job i'd recommend yourself. its also quite an expensive job to do. |
| ID: 7087 | Date: 10/03/10 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: gearbox Question: i have an m59 volvo gearbox i think are all fitting and speedo connections the same as the 5s jb gearbox. and is there any advantages of the m59. cheers Answer: its got different ratios to the gt turbo. i think its supposed to have a higher top speed. |
| ID: 7088 | Date: 10/03/10 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Gearbox Question: Hello again wiz, would I use the same gearbox oil in my m59 as the gt turbo gearbox oil. Cheers Answer: yes, its exactly the same in that respect. |