| ID: 7028 | Date: 12/01/10 | Member: modfather | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: flywheel position Question: hello there im looking at replacing my crank as its bit worn and found a replacement cheaper than regrinding my crank. anyway if i did get another crank it dont have a flywheel on it is there a particular way the flywheel has to go on Answer: yes there is a particular way, but thanfully there is only one way it will fit. just align the bolt holes. |
| ID: 7029 | Date: 12/01/10 | Member: modfather | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: flywheel position 2 Question: thanx for your reply does the flywheel have to be lined up with the position of the crank Answer: yes, if you try to fit it to the crank and its in the wrong position, only a few of the bolts will be able to bolt up. or you can be slick and remember with cyl 1 and 4 at the top of the stroke the flywheel notch is at approx 11 o'clock position as you look at it. |
| ID: 7030 | Date: 14/01/10 | Member: ross009 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: 2 questions Question: Hi wizard got 2 quick questions, first one is when changing rear pads is the calliper piston on a thread or is it just a push back in type one its been a while since i've done breaks on a R5. what would be a good starting point for fuelling 17 psi on a full T25 130 main and 90 air corrector? will a double capacity standard position i/ cool efficiently enough for that turbo/pressure? guess that's 3 questions!! cheers Answer: the rear calipers need to be tapped round to screw them back in. they don't just push in. at 17psi i'd say a 130 main and 90 ac would be overfuelling. i'd go for a 100 ac. unless of course you have a bored out venturi, in which case a 90 maybe necessary. a double cap i/c will be plenty good enough at 17psi. they are a good cooler. if you have any concerns, after a good boosting, pull over and check the outlet temp of the i/c. |
| ID: 7031 | Date: 18/01/10 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Front fog lights Question: Hello Wizard, I am trying to re-wire my front fog lights?, they have never worked since ive had the car cause there is no wires going to them! I think they must have been cut off at some point, got power to the switch etc Do you know where the feed would have been for them? where the relay would be?? so I could try to re-connect them. Also there has been a different horn fitted and I was wondering if it was on the same circuit? Sorry for the long winded question Many Thanks, Ben Answer: ok, my fog lights went up in smoke last year so i know this question! firstly there is no fuse! if you remove the ash tray/heater controls, attached to the bulkhead is a grey plug, i all red wires going into it. this is the feed for the fog lights. if you pop out the clocks on the dash, the red wire actually goes round the top of this, hidden in the massive bundle of wires. this goes via the switches, then drops down the side of the drivers side A pillar to the connector under the plastic cover by your foot. it then goes through a hole in the bulkhead, travels down the chassis leg and emerges under the drivers side headlamp. one branch then goes off to the passenger side light. i think the relay was attached to the wiring as it emerges from under the headlamp. does this help? |
| ID: 7032 | Date: 21/01/10 | Member: 1988cab | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Front fog lights Question: Hey Wizard, Thank's for the info! I removed the drivers side headlamp and found a relay and three wires coming from the main wireing that have been cut off, two red and one brown after testing them it seems that the brown one is the feed for the fog lights God knows what the other two are for?? Maybe the old horn wires, one of them is live??? Cheers for your help wiz Answer: no problemo! |
| ID: 7033 | Date: 21/01/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: lights flicker when brake is pressed Question: hello there my rear lights flicker when brakes are pressed could this be a bad earth whats the best way to rectify it. Answer: passenger side rear brake light. remove it and underneath you will see the rear earth. clean it up. also clear up the connections on the back of the light units. |
| ID: 7034 | Date: 22/01/10 | Member: ross009 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: rear wheel bearings Question: Hi wizard ive got to change my rear brake pads in the next week the discs look ok but wondered about the rear wheel bearings is there a way i can check there condition? the reason for my concern is someone was following me said my near side rear wheel looked to be wobbling a little could this just be a slightly buckled wheel or bulge in the tire? tks Answer: just jack up the rear corner of the car and spin the wheel, you will be able to see the buckle or bulge clearly. if the wheel bearing is knackered then it makes a hell of a grumbling rumbling noise. also, dont forget the new rear pads for the 5 have hardly any meat on them. - i.e make sure they actually need changing, as the rears hardly ever get used! |
| ID: 7035 | Date: 24/01/10 | Member: HULK | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: central locking solenoid Question: Hi Wiz, on my central locking when i press the button on my fob (aftermarket toad) the door pins only go down halfway and dont lock the car properly, the solenoids make a load groaning noise, i have wd40d the lock mechanisms well but still no joy, so it must be the solenoids how do i take the solenoids apart to clean them??? many thanks Answer: try this. sit in the car, set the alarm and physically assist the door pin to go down. it should free itself. - it won't be the mechanism, it will be the solenoid. you might have to do it several times. mine used to do the same! |
| ID: 7036 | Date: 24/01/10 | Member: HULK | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: How long can i leave the perc fan on before it drains the battery??? Question: Hi Wiz I have a perc fan wired to a manual switch via a relay and inline fuse with heavy duty wire so its all nice and safe ( i hope) I go to the gym 5 times a week and i`m in the gym for about 1 hour- 1hour 15minutes can i leave the perc fan going for this lenghth of time or will it bugger the battery, i have got to the gym and switched the fan on for 10 minutes and waited in the car to switch it off, then gone to the gym come out an hour later and the damn thing still struggles to start. :( how long do the fans supposed to work for anyway, do they use very little current??? thanks HULK Answer: as its a motor, it will draw a fair current. so i wouldnt use it for 1hr or more! they work until the temp sensor over the top of turbo and the base of the carb reaches a low enough temperature. there is a way you can get the car not to struggle to start. do you use the choke at all times? if not, do try it. failing that, then have you messed around with the fuel pump relay? - if you bridge it, so the pump runs so as soon as you turn the ignition to 'on', then you can prime the carb for 10-15seconds before you try and start the car. it works well. |
| ID: 7037 | Date: 26/01/10 | Member: HULK | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Bridging the fuel pump relay Question: Hi Wiz, thanks for your reply regarding my perc fan issues, you say bridging the fuel pump relay would help my hot starting?? would it be ok the bridge the relay to a toggle switch and start the pump whirling for 10 seconds before i start the car, ie, turn switch on for 10 seconds then turn switch off and start the car?? should i bridge it to ign live or battery live??? Hulk Answer: you have got the right idea....if you bridged the relay with ign live, you would have to put the switch in the between the terminals you have bridged. keep the original connections as well though. then when you turn the car ign to 'on', then switch the switch, let the fuel pump run. this will then flush the hot fuel away from the carb, and also replenish any fuel that has evaporated in the float chamber. turn the switch off after 10-15secs. start the car normally. |
| ID: 7038 | Date: 31/01/10 | Member: R5GT-GOO | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: fuel,carb, dyno tune Question: hi wiz i sent my car to autotronics in sheff to be dyno/rolling rd set up! i have fitted a adjustable fuel pressure reg. i did a compression test before it went 155 in each cylinder. he had the car for 2 days phoned to say it was done my m8 collected the car. i took it for a run and it was trying to cut out if you pressed accelerator quick if you press it slowly it revs i had a look under bonnet he has disconnected the pipe that goes to left hand side of the carb and blocked it off(no sure wat it is it use to go to lobster) is this right????? can u tell me anywhere close to me to take my car to have it set up????? im in rotherham thanks tom. Answer: your best bet is to speak to your local area rep. it sounds suspiciously like he has removed the boost feed to the fuel pressure reg. which would be bad, esp if you were on boost. i hope you fitted a boost referencing FPR.... |
| ID: 7039 | Date: 31/01/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: turbo Question: i am looking at doing a volvo 1.7t conversion and im wondering if the turbo i have on the 5 (t2/t25) with some mods would fit the volvo engine? the volvo comes with a standard t2(slightly bigger than a r5 t2) and thought the t2t25 might give me a bit of a power gain? also do you know what power id be looking at if i was to run the standard volvo engine with its t2 at 0.9bar boost just before the overboost on the ecu kicks in?? any help would be great! Answer: i think that it would be a bad idea to run the r5 t2 on the volvo engine. as the engine produces more exhaust gas and the exhaust housing on the r5 t2 is very small. hence why the volvo t2 is bigger- i.e it has a bigger exhaust housing. as the volvo engine runs low boost as standard i'd say its gonna run maybe no more than 160bhp at 0.9bar. i could be wrong as there are more knowledgeable wizards than me on this matter. |
| ID: 7040 | Date: 31/01/10 | Member: Harry Dockerty | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: suspected blown headgasket Question: My mate's car suddenly gave out a load of oily smoke when driving normally, there was no bang but lost oil pressure, we pulled over and there was oil all over the engine and some was on fire. Limped back home once cooled down and assessed the damage: -no mayonnaise under oil cap but it seems like pressure was building under rocker cover(placed my hand over to test). -seems like the source of the oil all over the engine was via the oil cab(therefore pressure under rocker cover) -only running on two cylinders(the two on the right as you stand in front of the car are out) investigated by pulling out plug leads. Have not got the tools to do a compression test. Anyone recon this could be a result of cylinder pressure leaking into oil system? Hopefully just headgasket not cylinder damage as well. Any suggestions as to what might be the cause would be much appreciated. Will be taking the head off next weekend to investigate further but would like to know what I may be up against before i get stuck in! Many thanks in advance. Answer: you need to do a compression check before you take the head off. buy the tool. else you will change the gasket and you will realise that the rings are fried. |
| ID: 7041 | Date: 31/01/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: volvo engine Question: my c1j lump decided to dump oil overheat now has no comp in 2&3 cyls now i have two options really to repair the c1j gasket rings etc or do a volvo 1.7 turbo conversion i can get an engine and most of the bits for 300quid would just need to plumb it in and get the fuel sorted! i keep having problems with the c1j so am looking for reliability and 200ish horse power which im told the volvo can produce at 1bar boost! do you in your opinion think it would be better to repair the c1j or convert the main prob is reliability for me mainly due to driving everything hard and ive lost faith in the c1j even tho people reckon it can handle 200bhp reliably i have not yet seen it!! Answer: Hi There, Well, its fair to say that the Volvo engine is quite a bit tougher than the C1J. (shock horror! Oh no, he didn't...) So yes, it makes for a great conversion, relable too - IF you do a nice job of the wiring and plumbing. Most conversions are let down by poor workmanship - splitting hoses, leaks, dodgy wiring, you name it. The engine itself is very good. 200hp at 1 bar isn't going to happen though. 18/19psi and a T28 turbo should see you to 200hp. The limit of the standard injectors is about 160hp, which comes up at about 15psi of boost. You must not exceed 15psi on standard injectors. To run any more than 12psi you will need to have the boost-limit removed from your ignition ECU too, otherwise the engine will want to cut power if you try to run any more boost. Wiz |
| ID: 7042 | Date: 01/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: volvo engine 2 Question: ok so if i was to get a modified ecu with the over boost sensor sorted out etc and some bigger injectors would i be able to get to the 200 mark with the t2 or would it be a new turbo job? Answer: Well, no the T2 is too small for that. Maybe 160hp maximum from the T2. A little birdie tells me you have a T2/T25 hybrid, so that might be good for 180hp. FSE rising rate regulator would be a better option than bigger injectors. You only need bigger injectors if you're shooting for 19psi or more, I'd say. Wiz |
| ID: 7043 | Date: 02/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: volvo engine 3 Question: oh i see many fingers in many pies wiz! have decided to go the fse route run the t2t25 and leave it at that as i want the reliability but also want to keep costs down! cheers for all your help il keep ya posted! Answer: Good luck :-) |
| ID: 7045 | Date: 03/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: volvo engine 3 Question: Mr Wiz is the standard 5 fuel pump going to be power full enough for the fuel supply as it is now going to be fueling injectors?? Answer: Hi, Afraid not, the standard Phase 2 pump is quite a weak afair and is only suited to a carburettor - it won't deal with the high pressures required by EFI. You need a fuel pump from a bigger EFI engined car. A lot of the older BMW's used Bosch pumps that fit in to the R5's fuel pump bracket. Also, Ford RS-Turbo had a suitable pump too. Alternatively, the normal "Uprated" R5 GT Turbo pump would work too. |
| ID: 7044 | Date: 03/02/10 | Member: TrixNFlix | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: b18ft turbocharger options Question: Hi Mr Wizard. Are there any larger turbos that fit this engine perfectly, while mating up in the same place for the volvo downpipe. regards andy Answer: Hi Andy, Not as such :-( The B18FT uses a funny downpipe, the elbow as actually cast into the turbine housing. Not all were like this though, some had a seperate elbow but the discharge on the turbo was odd-ball if I remember correctly ? While the flange on the manifold is a standard T2/T25 fitting you will need to manufacture a new downpipe should you fit anything larger. Ofcourse, the other usual rules apply - you'll have to have a new oil line or adaptor made up for the oil feed, and fettle about with the oil return pipe to make it fit. Any upgrade turbo designed for an R5 will fit with some work. T28's work especially well on those engine's, and don't suffer the same lag you'd have on the 1.4. |
| ID: 7047 | Date: 04/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: volvo fuel pump Question: if i was to get the most power full pump i could find would it be any better than the bmw bosch pump or would the injectors not let any more fuel flow any way? Have found a bmw bosch pump cheap so will prob get that if its up to scratch! Answer: No, a pump only needs to be big enough to fuel the engine. Having a pump that is over-qualified won't make any difference at all, so stick with the BMW pump. Make sure that the pump is going to fit in to the bracket though. Wiz |
| ID: 7048 | Date: 05/02/10 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: relays Question: i recently purchased a rolling shell phase 2, ive been putting it back together and noticed wires with a plug on it hanging from the back right side of the fuse box. the plug is the same as on the other large relays so i asume its for a relay, it is the only plug with nothing on the end, is this likly to be the fuel pump relay? Answer: if its got 6 big flat connectors in the plug then yes it is the fuel pump relay wiring. |
| ID: 7049 | Date: 08/02/10 | Member: patrick | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: engine rpm range. Question: hi,i am about to buy a cam for my 5 turbo and i`m not sure what to buy,i was looking at the piper range and in particular the piper 300,but i wonder how much would the engine be able to rev with it and i need rpm because i`m gonna run a pretty large a.r housing on the gt28 (0.86)and i rekon it won`t come on boost up until 4.5-5k with it! what i`d like to know is if there are bigger turbo cams that would likely let the engine breath better at high rpm hence giving higher rpm?and how much can i expect it to spin even with extensive surgery,i.e:pistons,rods,valves,springs,ported head+the engine is going to be converted to efi using a custom inlet and 60mm throttle body(and it`s going to be built for dragracing) Answer: ok, this is riiight up my street. a 0.86 will be way too large for the car, a 0.64 will come on full boost at 5k or just abit less. there are bigger turbo cams available - got tech apps section of the site and goto the cam wizard. - you will see the larger cam profiles. - i used the 390 piper profile. - which was probably overkill to be honest. - that revved to 8-9k. the main problem is rotating mass and oil pressure. at 6k revs the piston goes up and down 100 times a second. at 9k revs it goes up and down 150 times a second which is a massive difference. - what happens is that the oil splash cannot oil the bore effectively and you end up with a liner shaped like an old school sand-timer. - top and bottom are wider than the middle as the piston changes direction and wears the liner out. The other problem is spring bounce - you may higher poundage valve springs, but this will put more stress on the cam surface and will wear it out quickly. you have also gotta think about oil pressure, as the gtt pump needs assistance- as a general rule of thumb should be for every 1000rpm rise you need another 10-15psi oil pressure. most gtt's top out at 45-50psi oil pressure. - if you revved to 9k you would need more like 80psi at full chat - which is unlikely to happen. so basically what i'm trying to say is that its easy to slap on a big turbo, and a huge cam, and wang the boost up, however you will wear the engine out rather quickly. |
| ID: 7050 | Date: 08/02/10 | Member: jose | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: leather seats Question: i am intending in putting leather seats front and rear into my renault 5 gt turbo and i was looking on ebay and they have some for the renault 19 and the renault clio and i was woundering if they would be able to fit into my renault 5 gt? Answer: i'm not sure if they do fit to be honest. the bit where they bolt to the floor is different. i seem to remember people using the r21 seats? - unless you fancy welding the gtt subframe onto the r19 seats? |
| ID: 7052 | Date: 09/02/10 | Member: jack joy | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Changing steering rack. Question: Hi,while I've got the manifold/turbo off,thought it would be a good time to change the s/rack.It looks like a simple job to do,but in the manual it says to put a mark on the column,u/v & rack in realation to each other for reasembly,as I'm fitting a different rack none of this will apply,how do I make sure that the replacement rack is in the same position as the old rack for reassembly? you can probably tell I'm a first timer at this! Any advice greatly received! Cheers. Answer: make sure the steering wheel is centred. then make sure that the same amounr of tie rod is poking out of each side of the rack - use a tape measure. - that way you know the rack is centred too. - it would be a good place to start. |
| ID: 7051 | Date: 09/02/10 | Member: patrick | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: engine rpm range 2 Question: Thank`s for the very fast reply that was helpful,i now know that these engines can rev up to 9k if necessary but my target is going to be somwhere in the 7.5-8k max.i looked at the cam wiz as you suggested and i agree that the piper 390 is too big,i`m also aware that i may have to replace the turbine housing for a smaller one but as i`m going to fuel inject it and i`ll be running pretty high compression i`ll try it first.the a.r is also part of the reason i`m not trying to find such a big cam cause i`d reckon that even with an avreage cam i`d be able to produce good power up untill 7-7.5k considering it`s gonna be injected and using the big housing.you also mentioned oil pressure,are there high pressure/high volume pumps for these engines?as i was just gonna increse the pressure of the relief valve spring!?? Answer: i'd just stick with the piper 285 and retard the cam timing slightly to bring the peak torque later. the piper 300 has a long torque spread, which might not be the best with such a large turbo. you can easily buy the oil pump internals new for about £70-£80. however in france i have seen on a website a pump with deeper vanes, which would mean more flow. - it was in french though - so i didnt proceed any further with it. - shimming the pump maybe the next best thing. - but too much pressure and you will pop the rubber seal on the oil filter - unless you really screw it on tight. |
| ID: 7053 | Date: 09/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: volvo conversion Question: i have found a BMW 5 series fuel pump,taken off a 523i se auto E39 model would this be good enough for the volvo engine? Answer: yes, i would have thought so. |
| ID: 7054 | Date: 09/02/10 | Member: patrick | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: cams and oil pump Question: thanks very much for the info,regarding the cam i think i`ll take your advice and fit the 285,and thank`s very much on the oil pump tip,i think i`ll shim it,if i get at least 60-65psi at 7k-7.5k i don`t think i`ll have problems. thanks again: Patrick. Answer: noooo problem. :) |
| ID: 7055 | Date: 11/02/10 | Member: TrixNFlix | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Fuel pumps for b18ft Question: Hello again mr wizard. What are my cheapest options for a fuel pump. I know alot seem to use the bosch 044 for high boost aplications, could i stick with the phase 1 gtt pump? There is a member i know who has run this in a gtt for 5 years, unless hes getting mixed up, was a long time ago that the engine went in. regards andy Answer: good job this was answered one week ago? http://www.rtoc.org/wizard/?show=7045 |
| ID: 7058 | Date: 11/02/10 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: no horn sound Question: hello there i was soldering the wire on my horn with the ignition on now it dont work so i tested horn by wireing it to battery and it worked could i have knackerd the wire loom. my horn is not the one with the compressor its a standard one. do you know the position of the wire colours to the numbers on the plastic conecter witch the relay sits in. Answer: the numbers should be mentioned in the haynes manual wiring diagrams? - sounds like you have either a duff relay or fuse, or the horn switch is knackered. |
| ID: 7059 | Date: 12/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: t28 turbo Question: wiz I have been looking at t28s on ebay and they all seem to be selling for 250-300 quid! they don't mention what bearings they have so I can assume that its not roller bearing nor 360 thrust bearing! would these turbo's be up to the job do you think or would I be better off buying a decent used t28 off the forum? I'm thinking the latter but just wondered if you have had any experience with these turbo's? Answer: Well, you're asking me if a second hand one from "X" is going to be better than a second hand one from "Y". Ofcourse, the asnwer is: who knows!! Second hand turbo's are a bit of a gamble. You pays yer money, takes yer chances. Remember, you're going to have to do some work whichever you buy so it makes no difference what car it came off, or was designated for. Most will only have plain 270° bearings, which is fine unless you're planning on running more than 20psi say. Wiz |
| ID: 7057 | Date: 12/02/10 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: volvo turbo Question: does the t28 turbo for the 5 fit the volvo engine manifold perfectly or dose it need modifying? also what needs to happen in reguads to the exaust or will it just bolt straight on? Can i use any other t28s from any other cars? Answer: All will bolt to the manifold OK and all will need a one-off downpipe making because they will not fit up to the Volvo exhaust. They're all need 'clocking' too, which means the housings need to be rotated so that everything points in the right directions. Wiz |