| ID: 6998 | Date: 08/12/09 | Member: Yellow | Wizard: Adam L |
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Subject: split liner Question: hello againe mate, cheers for the swift reply. the fourth liner split top to bottom. just one more question, is it better to use a coork gaskit on the sump or use sealent. cheers mate. Answer: Sealant would most definatley be the better option. BO!!! |
| ID: 6997 | Date: 09/12/09 | Member: R5GT-GOO | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: timing Question: hey up wiz my cars over fueling like mad sooting plugs up ever day im running 15 psi boost wen i rebuilt the car it has noew got a adjustable timing sensor seems to be missing sometime were does it want to go in the middle or close to the front ???? thanks tom Answer: adjusting the timing isnt really a good substitute for a well set up carb. - what jets and venturi are you running? as standard the sensor goes in the middle of the bracket. - to advance the timing - making the car slightly more responsive move the sensor towards the back of the car. moving it towards the front retards the ignition. |
| ID: 6995 | Date: 09/12/09 | Member: Allan_100 | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: front end Question: im replacing the headlight brackets, slam panel and crossmember. The crossmember measures 18cm from chassis rail to inner wing on the offside and 19.5cm on nearside. Its had a bump in its past thats why im replacing them. should the measurements be the same or does that sound about right? everything else is straight Answer: Hi, I've never measured those distances, but the cross member should be straight and undamaged. If its bashed about then there's a good chance that the distances should be the same, and that yours is a bit off. If you need those distances to help center the cross member then let me know, I will take some measurements for you. Wiz |
| ID: 6999 | Date: 09/12/09 | Member: Kenobi | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: Volvo 1.7 Turbo engine Question: Hello ive just bought myself a clio which has had a volvo lump dropped in. Im wondering if that 1.7 volvo lump is more reliable than the oe 5 gt turbo engine? Also marky says any clio gearbox will go on with this engine, how so? Is it made by renault or something? Answer: Now then, that ones beed discussed to death on the forums so a search there will yeild more information than I can squeeze into this box. But in short, yes, it's more reliable (shock horror!!) and Mark is right, any of the R5, Clio, R19 etc JB/JC gearboxes will go on fine because, yes, the engine is made by renault :) (note: the only alteration required to some of the gearboxes is that you move one of the dowels to a different hole, such that it mates with the new block) Wiz |
| ID: 7000 | Date: 09/12/09 | Member: MATT C Ringworm Tuning | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Dribbling Carb? Question: A few carbs i have had the misspleasure on working on have got the dreaded issue of fuel dribbling down the venturi on idle, and causing irregular idle. Is there a definite cure for this? Even some carb rebuilds with new seals doesnt seem to cure this issue. Tar Answer: i know exactly what you mean. i changed a fuel pressure reg, float chamber jet etc etc to try and sort this too -it didnt work. in the end it sorted itself out when i richened up the mixture via the mixture screw. - so basically it was using abit more fuel. also - what idle speed are you adjusting the car at? - too much idle speed and the air going through the venturi may cause too much of a pressure drop - resulting in fuel getting sucked up the emulsion tube??? |
| ID: 7002 | Date: 11/12/09 | Member: old skool turbo power | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: water temp light stays on? Question: hey wizard finally got my clutch done on my car but when car was started up i let it run till normal temp then was ok but after a whlie it gave a dodgey readin?found out conectors had broken.i rec cut and connected em but light now stays on?the light had not stayed on b4 i found out the conector had broken.temp and fan wks fine.on im pretty sure the conectors are on the right way round.orange is towards the carb and green is other end. whats the problem mate chris Answer: only one of those wires lights the warning lamp. im assuming the gauge doesnt move at all? try swapping them round first. |
| ID: 7003 | Date: 11/12/09 | Member: ross009 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: strange knock/rattle bang type thing Question: hi dont know weather your gonna be able to help me here but thought i'd ask as im at my wits end. my cars bot a strange knocking/banging coming from the nearside rear corner i thought it was exhaust so moved that about with metal tie wraps that didnt sort it thought it was something in the rear quarter door card or behind it so totally stripped the rear of the car still does it. its really quite a loud bang over harsh pot holes the cars pretty low (not done by me) could it be that the rear beam is some how hitting something under the car it sounds as though its coming from under the car but i cant find anything that could move? Answer: anything exhaust related tends to go "ting ting tingggg ti-ti-ting er ting ting ting" what you have there is more than likely a bottoming out knackered shock absorber. if you and a mate bounce up and down in the boot area, can you replicate it? |
| ID: 7004 | Date: 11/12/09 | Member: ross009 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: strange rear knock pt 2 Question: no thats the thing i cant replicate it thats why im struggling to find it im fairly sure its not the exhaust now, gonna have to look at the shock that side maybe the bush has work oval causng it to knock and resonate up through the n/s rear wheel well? and maybe when i bounce it at the back the pressure is to constant or not severe enough as its noticably worse at speed and doesnt do it if the offside wheel its a pot hole say which surely that would make the exhaust bang against something also? so its something related solely to the nearside of the car? Answer: look where the exhaust goes over the rear trailing arm. the exhaust has to go through a very tight section. anything over 2 inch bore pipe needs to be very well positioned! |
| ID: 7005 | Date: 13/12/09 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: brakes Question: Wizzzzard. when i press my brake peadal my engine stalls. i know i have to check the one-way valves but hows the best way to check them. could they be stuck open or closed and need a spray of wd-40 or is it a bit more involved. cheers Answer: there is a ball inside them, that gets stuck in the open position. pull off the pipe that is on there already. then put your own pipe on there. - then blow hard. if you can suck it, its faulty. - wd40 is needed - maybe a small prod with the end of an allen key. |
| ID: 7006 | Date: 16/12/09 | Member: HULK | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Hesitating on boost Question: Hi Wiz, My GTT starts fine and idles fine, i have noticed, that during driving, when i put my foot down the engine feels like it has no power, the turbo works and it comes on full boost but the revs dont climb very fast at all, would this be sh1t in the carb, which pipes/jets etc on the carb are usual suspects for blocking Thanks buddy Answer: have you checked to see what the afr is doing? also check the cam timing - esp if you have an after market cam. |
| ID: 7007 | Date: 19/12/09 | Member: R5GT-GOO | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: rev limiter Question: hi wiz i bought a armtech rev limiter and was woundering were i need to wire the coil wire into ????? thanks tom Answer: do you have the wiring diagram? you need to take off the coil from the ignition unit via the two torx bolts. then look at the connectors that clip on the pegs. one is labelled +ve the other -ve. connect the black and red wires to these. |
| ID: 7001 | Date: 20/12/09 | Member: Allan_100 | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: front end 2 Question: hi wiz, Yes if you could take some measurements for me then that would be most appreciated. If possible the measurement between the 2 chassis rails, subframe bolts to chassis rail and crossmember edge to chassis rail. Thanks very much wiz, that would help me out a lot! Answer: Hi Allan Sorry for the delay, I was hoping to find someone local with a car in bits so that I could take some measurements. Even the wizard doesn't know details like that off the top of his head :-( I couldn't find anyone, and my own car is tucked away, so I reccommend you ask the question on the forum. You should get the answers you need pretty quickly. Wiz |
| ID: 7008 | Date: 22/12/09 | Member: reevio | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: problem on start up dies Question: hi recently brought a mk2 1.6 8v for a runabout for my gf car starts revs up and when about to idle it dies if i start it and imediately jab the throttle it will rev but if i apply the throttle it dies had new coils new spark plugs has new fuel ive removed th tb cleaned and also cleaned the iscv but still no luck any ideas Answer: you need to spray around the manifold and inlet with carb cleaner . if the revs rise, you have an air leak. sometimes cleaning doesnt always sort out the ICV. |
| ID: 7009 | Date: 22/12/09 | Member: rs250nut | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Cam bearings Question: On one of my engines I have a slight rattle which can only be heard when cold and then when hot only on the over-run, I cant see it being any of the rocker assembly as I have replaced it. Any ideas? Could it be cam related? If it is the bearings where can I get these from? Answer: the gt turbo engine doesnt run cam bearings. once the block is worn, the only option is to get it line bored and get some bearings off a turbo 2 pressed in and the oil ways drilled through the bearings and then the lead plugs replaced. other than that its change the block time. |
| ID: 7010 | Date: 23/12/09 | Member: rs250nut | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: light knock Question: As I asked previously about cam bearings causing the slight rattle I can hear could it be anything else, could it be the buckets rattling in their bores?how can I tell if these are worn? What should they measure? Thanks in advance you are the don mister or missus wizard. Answer: it could be a few things.- piston slap usually appears when cold, then goes when the car warms up. worn buckets would be a constant noise. - you can check this by removing them and checking the diameter - 19mm springs to mind. -you also need to look at the edge that sits in the block - it should be flat and not barrel shaped. - the underside should not be scored either. im being particularly evasive in giving a definitive answer to your problem, due to the fact the C1J is a noisy engine and there are lots of points the engine could knock. - you could try and fit the old stethoscope to various points on the block and see where the noise is coming from??? |
| ID: 7011 | Date: 27/12/09 | Member: BluntyR5GTT | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: 16 psi fuelling on t2 Question: hi wiz iv been having a look around on here and couldnt exactly find the answer to this, iv got a standard t2 running at 16psi also have uprated rad and intercooler with full exhaust system :) on the fuelling side of things i added a 130 main jet now it seemed ok but certain times it has a bit of hesitation and the other week i went out for a blast in it and after a bit of opening it up the car just didnt want to be revved and was really jerky, also it would rev if throttle was only half opened but if fully opened it would cut out. then as quick as it come it had gone and its not done it since ? my car is off the road at the moment so im looking into what route to take next so is it a good idea to get the 0.90 air corrector for my setup ? ill also be adding a ktr downpipe and ktr turbo elbow Answer: stick with the 130main. the jerkiness was due to the cold weather causing the fuel to condense and enter the engine as blobs of fuel, which causes rough running. i bet if ran ok again if you left it for 5 mins. - try covering the intercooler up and piping some hot air from around the turbo. always happens at this time of year, especially when cold and the air is 'heavy'/misty |
| ID: 7012 | Date: 27/12/09 | Member: BluntyR5GTT | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: persistant oil leak Question: hi wiz my car has a bloody persistant oil leak now ill give you as much info as poss iv renewed the sump and gaskets and all sealed up and fine i had new snadwich plate fitted and also tightened up the oil cooler pipe and still the leak is there and its no better. its defo not coming from the sump as its running onto the sump from somewhere but i cant see where from. we also checked the sensors when it was up on the ramps and they were both fine. any help much appreciated Answer: there is only a certain few places that oil can leak from, and as its from the one end of the block check these even if you have 'fixed them': sump sealant horseshoes seals incorrectly fitted. crank seal in timing cover leaking oil gallery plug next to oil filter make sure you have 2 seals on the oil filter sandwich plate - one between the block and the sandwich plate and the other on the oil filter to sandwich plate join - its easy to have the old one from the old filter still stick on the plate- so you end up trying to use two on the filter! where exactly is it dribbling down from?? - after wiping the sump is it from the oil filter area? you could have a holed oil cooler pipe or even a holed sump? |
| ID: 7013 | Date: 27/12/09 | Member: BluntyR5GTT | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: 16 psi fuelling t2 part2 Question: hi wiz thanks for the reply thats good to know that its not a problem just down to my car :) is it worth adding the 0.90 air corrector or just stick with the 130 main ? Answer: just stick with the 130 main. your problem happens to all gt turbos with the standard 1.4 engine unfortunately... |
| ID: 7014 | Date: 27/12/09 | Member: Tim B | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Liner Seals Question: Could you tell me which make of liner seals is the best or are all the suppliers much the same. Cheers Answer: there all the same pretty much. - although it has to be said some are slightly thicker than others. i'd advise using silicone as well as the liner seal. - dont use sikaflex, as you will never get them out again! |
| ID: 7015 | Date: 27/12/09 | Member: R5GT-GOO | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: carb flooding Question: hi wiz i recently had my car tuned at a dyno centre. They fitted a full rebuild kit on the carb and new mixture screw set the car up removed he choke flap and spinal i phoned to see how things were going and he said it was running fine i asked them to put the choke flat back! he phoned to say there was a fault with the turbo!!!! and could i collect it and fetch it back after the turbo problem was sorted i collect the car the idle was set at 2000rpm i managed to get it home i removed the carb elbow and if you put the choke on you can see the carb flooding with fuel once you stop cranking!!! have you get any idea as im lost now??? thanks tom Answer: take the carb off, take it apart and see if they have removed and gaskets. - although i'd check the main jet too, as they might have removed it and not fitted it again. whilst you are at it, it might be worth while getting a carb rebuild kit and looking at the instructions on how they are put together, rather than leaving it someone elses hands who obviously dont seem to have a clue about carbs! incidentally, unless you are running huge boost, keep the choke flap on, else you will have a hell of a game starting it in cold weather. |
| ID: 7016 | Date: 28/12/09 | Member: modfather | Wizard: Adam L |
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Subject: metal shavings in oil Question: hello im just about to get stuck into engine rebuild and there is some small metal shavings mixed in the oil. what can be the reason for this? and do i need to worry about it Answer: The metal shavings are swarf, which has occured from internal wear. Usually a part that's worn from poor lubrication. It's not particularly good news on a turbocharged engine as they get picked up and go through the turbo's oil feed and considering turbo's run on such fine tolerances they're easily damaged by the swarf, if you're unlucky. This also occurs on newly built engines as new parts need to wear on a new engine and this will give you the same problem. What's always a good idea, on a freshly build engine, is to run a pre-filter for the oil feed to the turbo, you'd be suprised how much crap they pick up. |
| ID: 7017 | Date: 28/12/09 | Member: modfather | Wizard: Adam L |
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Subject: engine rebuild Question: thanks for getting back to me so fast on my other question. im not looking to get big hp out of my engine so would it be worth balancing the crank and flywheel. Answer: You'd need both balancing anyway. Unless the flywheel hasn't had any meat taken off it (lightened) it won't require it. I'd personally get the crank inspected before re-using it. |
| ID: 7018 | Date: 28/12/09 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: THE MASTER |
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Subject: aei unit wires Question: Hi Wiz, on the AEI unit there are three connectors one from the TDC from from ignition type area- apart from the king lead is the third clip/p-lug used for anything? im refitting it all together and cant remember.. cheer Chris Answer: one plug does the pos + and neg - ie power suply the the aei the same plug also puts out engine rpm pulse the middle plugs is the flywheel postion sensor . the third plug is the knock sensor |
| ID: 7019 | Date: 29/12/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: AEI unit Question: when my car is idleing and you put your ear to the bonnet catch you can here a strange ticking noise coming from the AEI unit is this normal you can here it inside the car aswell. i ask this because my car runs ok and idles ok when you put foot to the floor for boost its a bag of pants ive checked all hoses intercooler treid carbs different turbos one way return valves O ring gaskets dumpvalve on and off. dizzy caps ignition leads rebuilt carb actuaters fuel regulater fuel filter fuel pump ive tried everything even afr,s good no matter what i do it wont boost properly. any ideas Answer: pop the bonnet, and remove the scuttle cover. - then look at it in pitch black. guarantee that you have a king lead that is arcing out somewhere. this could cause boosting problems. |
| ID: 7020 | Date: 30/12/09 | Member: Joe Heath | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Problem starting Question: Hi just completed 1000 miles after full engine rebuild and checked valve clearances. When turned engine over did not start and big back fire from exhaust (i made the mistake of putting ht leads in wrong order!). After correcting my mistake car will still not start and now am getting small puff coming out of carb top. I have checked valve clearances again all ok and have good spark on all four. Car has been running fine since rebuild and dont think i have fuel problem as plugs flooded when ht leads were in wrong order. Is it possible that i have messed up the timing? Please help thanks Answer: have you checked to see that you actually have fuel getting to the carb when you crank the car? - pull off the fuel supply tube. if all is ok, take the boost hose off the carb top and spray carb cleaner into it. - then try and start the car - this will force the car to start assuming that the timing is ok, but i cant see how you could have changed mess it up. |
| ID: 7021 | Date: 01/01/10 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: starting issues- i have a spark, i have fuel.....ht in right order Question: Hi Wiz, so after fitting a replacement head and having put everything back together i just cant seem to get it to start. the car turns over and i am getting a good spark at the plugs, i know fuel is getting to the carb and i can see it being squirted into inlet. as far as i know the HT's are in the right places- i've even tried rearranging them but its not firing... im baffled to why it's not starting. Any thoughts to where i am going wrong? Cheers Chris Answer: firstly, you need to do a compression check to see if you are getting good compression. how did you know how to do the leads? - did you look at haynes? - if so its the wrong way round. you could also try removing the boost pipe from the carb and squirting carb cleaner down it and try to start the car - it will force the car to start. - if it doesnt then you have timing issues, be it leads or timing sensor. |
| ID: 7022 | Date: 07/01/10 | Member: Phil W | Wizard: Adam L |
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Subject: Pain Question: When i urinate sometimes it burns like hell!!!! any ideas??? Answer: Does it smell like marshmellows? older wiz - is this you??? http://ladybunny.net/blog/uploaded_images/SomeIdiotBangedMyCarYesterday_1%5B1%5D-769172.jpg |
| ID: 7025 | Date: 08/01/10 | Member: HULK | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: maximum boost for standard carb? Question: Wiz, i know the maximum boost for the carb is 14psi but is that from the carb top or from the manifold My boost gauge is plumbed into my manifold and reads 11 psi what would my carb top boost be??? Thanks pal Answer: 14psi from the manifold. expect it to be about 2 or 3psi more at the carb top. |
| ID: 7026 | Date: 10/01/10 | Member: jack joy | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: -blank- Question: Hi there,both my 5 & 11 suffer from the same problem,which is that they both intermitently get difficult (11 almost imposible), to engage into gear and then all of a sudden ,they go staight in with no problem! it's not affected by temperature,I've also tried cable spacers to no avail.The 5 has had a reacent genuine clutch and cable +both have had fresh gear oil.Any suggestions would be great. Cheers. Answer: how much gear oil did you add and what type was it? - 75/90 or 80/90? |
| ID: 7027 | Date: 10/01/10 | Member: jack joy | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Reply to 5& 11 gear prob or Question: Hi, I think it was 80/90 oil,but can't be 100% sure, I followed the Haynes specifications so should be correct.The reason I changed the gear oil was because I thought it might of degraded,and therefore causing the problem, but it made absolutly no difference! I know It's hard to pinpoint problems like this,so any suggestions would be great. Cheers:-) Answer: well...i always found that in the 5 box Total BV gear oil worked well, its slightly thinner as i think its 75/80. did you fill it up till it starts to leak out of the filing hole? |