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ID: 6898 | Date: 12/09/09 | Member: BlueFish5Gt | Wizard: Scoff

Subject: jet carbs ? Question: hi.i have 8.2/1 compration ratio ,piper 285,t2.5 turbo and idle jet 45 main jet 152.50 air corector 90 ,first stage(in the triange) 90 and seconde stage triange body open at 3.5mm my afr at 25psi boost is 1000-4500rpm 10-11/1 4500-6.800rpm is 12.9 you think i am ok or should i try re jet the carb ?? second question on rebuiled 5gtt a friend of mines with a garret gt 2554 at 20 psi with the same carb jets as me he has at 5500rpm at4 gear cylinder temperture 900 degrees ??re jet??? thanks a lot for your time. Answer: Hi, 152.5mm main jet sounds very big, I guess this is with a big venturi (you did not tell me venturi size). Most likely you are emptying the float bowl. The AFR should not go lean at high RPM with a 90 air corrector. Try upgrading the needle jet to 2mm, or 2.1mm. Standard is 1.7mm which is usually too small for anything over 200hp.

ID: 6899 | Date: 13/09/09 | Member: daniboi | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: bad smoke when no revs are put on Question: hi there, cheers for the help with running. ad it back on the road for a couple of days and after opening it up on my way home from work it keeps throwing loads of smoke out, now when i put the revs on it stops until i ease off and then it starts again, any ideas? Answer: check the shaft in the centre of the turbo - you need to see if you can pull the shaft in and out. - if it does, then your turbo is goosed. hence why the smoking. or it could be blocked breather pipes.

ID: 6900 | Date: 13/09/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: carb set up 22psi Question: i am looking to run 22psi boost i have a freeflowing exaust a piper cam double capacty intercooler t2t25 turbo lightened flywheel(prob dosnt make difference)28mm venturi. i am currently running 1bar boost with a 130 main and 0.9a/c all other jets are standard! i am wondering roughly what size jets do i need to run 22psi boost? i also have an afr but want a good start!! Answer: have you made the second stage enricher 120 or 130 yet? if not, do so. then try the 1st stage removable jet up to 125. - but if the car stutters are it goes from negative pressure to boost pressure (i.e on 'lag'), it'd best to drop that back down to the 100. maybe worth taking the main up to 140 too. and also think about a 2mm float chamber jet. then get on it with the AFR.

ID: 6901 | Date: 14/09/09 | Member: Fuzzybubble | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: Holding back in 3rd gear at *** 5.5k RPM Question: Hello! I'm running 25 psi of boost on a T28 turbo and everything seems fine in 1st and 2nd, but in 3rd the car seems to hold back or lose power after about 5.5k rpm. It's worth mentioning that this is work in progress and I run 15 psi on low boost. I know for sure that I need to sort out the cooling next which will involve a front mounted intercooler and maybe water injection, but I wondered if that might be the cause of the 'holding back' issue or whether it could be a under or over-fueling issue. I have an uprated carb which was setup on a rolling road at BB Performance Tuning a couple of years ago and hasn't been touched since. I've also done very little mileage in it since then. Any ideas or should I just lower the high boost setting until I sort the cooling out? Answer: lower the high boost setting to about 20psi, and see if the holding back stops. - it will probably be the float chamber emptying - you may need a 2mm float chamber needle jet. you will most likely also need an AFR meter to REALLY see whats going on. - they are very good. the front mount will be a good thing, but it probably won't help the stuttering issue.

ID: 6902 | Date: 15/09/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: carb set up 22psi Question: by second stage enricher you nean the brass jet in the carb body that cant be romoved yeah? Answer: yes, thats the one.

ID: 6903 | Date: 16/09/09 | Member: french_coswoth | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: not running correctly Question: hi wizard,ive purchased a r5 gt turbo today and is not what i think fueling properly,the kid before me had a spring on the throttle cable to keep the revs up on the car, you can drive the car with no problems but as soon as you come to a stop the cars revs drop and will 'conk' out or sometimes it will revs it *** off sat at 1500rpm, also when boosting or trying to gain speed the car seem like as if its being starved of fuel, like as if it has some sort of restrictor, which i and the previous ownerknows it hast because its 200 bhp and cabable of really good top end speeeds, do you have any idea of what this could be its feel like it just dosnt wat to go over 3500 rpm! cheers anth Answer: sounds like the carb needs stripping and cleaning. - especially the idle jet!- a little piece of crap in that can cause conking out. you might also have a sticky throttle plate and you will need to have a strong spring to make sure the throttle returns to its proper position. once you can get it to idle, then adjust the idle speed with the idle speed screw. do you know what boost you are running? - do you know what jets are in the carb? have tyou got an AFR meter to see what is actually happening with the fuelling?

ID: 6904 | Date: 16/09/09 | Member: daniboi | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: bad amouts of white smoke Question: checked the shaft through middle of turbo, as very little play up and down but no movement backwards or forwards!the only thing i noticed is that there seams to be like a dried oil substance coming around the gasget that joines turbo and down pipe? you also mentioned that breathers may be blocked, where abouts are these breathers? cheers Answer: the simplest way to check is to remove the black pot that is attached to the side if the water pump. if the car stops smoking with this off, then you have breathing problems with the engine or blocked pipes. have you dont a compression check yet?

ID: 6905 | Date: 16/09/09 | Member: Arron V R5GTT | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: Wiring up a rev gauge Question: what wires and where do i connect into to wire up my rev gauge the instructions say black to ground, red to some where activated via the key, green to tachometer signal and orange to lights harness to come on with the lights Answer: black to anywhere on the body. red to ignition live - back of your stereo? green - look at the haynes manual - the picture of the aei shows which wire thr tacho feed runs down. orange to the back of the roller switch that dims the dash lights.

ID: 6906 | Date: 18/09/09 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: engine stalls under braking Question: Good morning Wiz. as per the ***le really. ive bled the brakes but the pedal still goes to the floor. and when i do press it with the engine running the engine stalls. i have noticed that there is a pipe from the brake servo to the inlet manifold which is connected. could it be to do with this? Answer: the pipe that goes from the servo to the one way valve on the back of the manifold, should be fairly solid and should not crush under vacuum. make sure the one way valve is ok too - there is a metal one on the manifold and a white plastic one on the servo, although to be honest it sounds like you have either a massive airlock - usually round the brake compensator, or you have a massive leak, or that your brake master cylinder is fecked! with the car off, can you pump the brake pedal and make it go hard? if not i think your master cylinder is screwed. - if it does go hard, with your foot on the pedal, start the car - does the pedal drop slighty?

ID: 6907 | Date: 18/09/09 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: engine stalls under braking Question: a reply to your answer from my previous question. Wiz, without the engine on the brake pedal goes hard, when the engine starts the does drop a bit. also with the engine running the pedal goes straight to the floor Answer: check to see that your one way valves are actually only one way....

ID: 6908 | Date: 18/09/09 | Member: turbo leo | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: accelerator pump body. gushing out fuel. carb Question: Hiya wiz i bought a new carb off ebay, its been sandblasted and polished and everthing about it looksbetter than my old one but when i fitted to my car it just pouring out peterol out off the accelerator pump body. i swaped the a pump body off the new carb with my old one and it was still the same, the diaphragm isnt split an all looks ok everthing connected right, i am going to investagate more now but was wondering if u know the answer to my problem ? Thanks Answer: the diaphram will definately be split. its the only way it can leak out.

ID: 6909 | Date: 19/09/09 | Member: turbo leo | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: accelerator pump body. gushing out fuel. carb 2 Question: But i have two an they both look fine an when i had my old carb on it didnt do this an i have used the pump body an gasket off my old carb. can you think off anythink else which can make the fuel pour out like it is. thanks Answer: you may have a crack somewhere then? how can you be sure it isnt a holed diaphram - that gasket is always failing. fuel is behind the gasket...so how is it getting past it?

ID: 6910 | Date: 19/09/09 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: 1st Stage Question: wiz what would be the symptoms an dangers of accidently fitting a 0.9 a/c jet in the 1st stage hole an the 1.00 1st stage jet in the a/c hole while running a 1.4 main !!! Answer: you would get less fuel at the top end and less fuel in the transition between vacuum and boost. you definately need a AFR meter.

ID: 6911 | Date: 22/09/09 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: starter motor Question: Wizard, started the car the other day and it took 2-3 attempts to get the starter motor to turn over. when it eventually did turn over it didnt disengage. i disconnected the solenoid wire to check that the 12v for turning the car over stops when the key springs back which it does ok. starter motor removed, stripped, cleaned, lubricated and re-assembled and fitted and its still doing it. now could i have an internal problem in the windings of the motor and have it repaired. or could it be something else. Answer: sounds like a solenoid problem. you could try and swap the solenoid over with a spare unit?

ID: 6912 | Date: 24/09/09 | Member: Poppy Brady | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: RAIDER word Question: Do you know if anyone stocks the letters for RAIDER that was an oem fit on rear glass of genuine Raiders? Mine is original Raider but rear glass is replacement, have therefore lost my letters. Thanks in anticipation. Answer: hey Poppy, good to see you still have the raider! unfortunately the sticker isnt available from renault. There was talk of one of the guys on here measuring up his raider sticker, so the club could get it copied. if you can't wait that long, then Bob at CGB - 01952 618 419 has a whole window including the sticker on for £30. it would be about £8.99 delivery. or you could try http://www.gt-turbo-spares.co.uk/ (who is helpful club member also.)

ID: 6913 | Date: 28/09/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: oil cooler and front mount Question: im after a front mounted intercooler and an oil cooler. What im wondering is, is it best to have the intercooler behind the bumper or behind the grille and the oil cooler would be in the other place! I didnt know if it would be best to keep the intercooler pipes short or if it dosnt really matter! any help on this would be ace also if you know any where i could get these cheap as im on a budget and mainly what ones work best for cool running, engine longlivety and performance! At the moment i have a standard set up oil and air wise with t2t25 and few engine mods would these would a front mount and an oil cooler work better?? i know its alott of questions help is much appreciated tho!! Answer: i'd personally say that an intercooler behind the grille would be better as there is more airflow there. the slats in the bottom of the bumper arent as big are they? i'd then put the oil cooler down the bottom. shorter intercooler pipes are always better than longer ones. - if you made them thinner, i.e 52mm as opposed to 60mm, then this should in theory help stop lag. you could try and use one of those ebay intercoolers, they are cheap. oil coolers - go and rob one off any scrap car. -there are loads out there. - but make sure you flush them out with petrol first! then you can get some pipes made up to fit. (or chop the ends off the OE cooler pipes and used two jubilee clips on each pipe when you manage to clip the over the scrap cars metal pipes....)

ID: 6914 | Date: 28/09/09 | Member: rtoctimgt5 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: Wheel bearings Question: Hi my rear wheel bearings are making a noise they need replacing but do I need to change the rear discs as well although the rear discs look fine cheers Answer: this is a question that gets asked ALOT! if you can press them out of the discs then you are a lucky sod. the standard way to deal this is buy the discs as well, and press the new bearings in. let me guess, you are running 15" wheels or bigger too? - they put more strain on bearings. also try and avoid cheap chinese bearings....

ID: 6915 | Date: 28/09/09 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: Brake Servo Question: Hi wiz me again :) When my car is running i have no brake pedal at all, an if i pump the pedal the idle gets rough an eventually then engine dies. The carb as been rebuilt an idle setup an mixture set as per 1.5%. I have removed checked and cleaned both one-way valves on i/m an one on servo itself, brake system is all new, (Lines/Calipers/Pads/Mastercylinder/Brakecompensator) It has been bled twice with no air present and has a really good firm pedal until engine starts, then just drops to floor. Im lost as to what could be problem there is no hissing from manifold an no leaks of fluid or air from what i can hear or see. Thanks Answer: the only thing i think you havent changed is the servo? which unfortunately it sounds like it is the problem. i'd advise getting a mechanics second opinion on this though.

ID: 6916 | Date: 29/09/09 | Member: KeefaGT | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: spal fan Question: Hi i am about to buy an alloy rad and want to fit a spal fan just wanted to know if i need a blower or a sucker.Also is a 10" the biggest i can fit without altering anything?Thanks Wiz Answer: you will need to buy a sucker. have you actually measured the size of the radiator you are fitting it to? - only then you can work out how big to have the fan and how you are gonna mount it.

ID: 6918 | Date: 30/09/09 | Member: toby | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: Carb Setup? Question: Hi wizzard, I'm wondering how I should go about setting up my carb correctly and how much boost I should run. I don't really understand much about how the carbs are setup. I'm running a T25/T3 turbo and would like to see around 210/220 bhp if possible. The engine also has a piper 285 and uprated valve springs. I also have K-Tecs large Front Mount Intercooler. Is there anything else I need? Thanks. Answer: yeah, you would really need to get access to or buy an AFR reader. i hope you have an uprated clutch. you would have to run 20-22psi for that sort of power, but you will have to change the main jet, air corrector, the 1st and 2nd stage enrichers. you also need to find out if you have a group A carb or a standard one. standard carbs tend to be better, as they are allow the fuel to be more closely controlled. you will also need to make sure you have an uprated fuel pump and also a bigger float chamber needle jet as alot of people are finding they run out of fuel at higher revs and boost pressures. this is where the AFR meter is vital.

ID: 6919 | Date: 30/09/09 | Member: toby | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: Carb Setup 2 Question: I have a Volvo 480 Turbo clutch, will this be good enough? Also, its a standard carb, I used to have a group A but sold it as everyone said it was a waste of time! Could you recommend anywhere or anyone around the Midlands area who could set it up for me? Thanks Answer: the volvo clutch will be fine, provided you dont spill any oil onto it. the grp A carb is a waste of time for the power levels you are looking for. you will need to get a lambda bung welded into the downpipe- about a 6-12inches from the turbo elbow?. you can then let someone with an AFR meter and lambda probe set your fuelling up. - if you dont do this, then it will be VERY hit or miss (more misses tbh)

ID: 6920 | Date: 03/10/09 | Member: redrocket29 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: cutting out Question: when i start my car it keeps cutting out even with the choke up as soon as i rev it a bit it is a bit lumpy then fine and as soon as it worms up it runs sweet iv got a lot of black on the back pipe.it must be running rich but its had a lot of work done. iv got a k tec carb i spoke to some ome and they said to take the flap out in the carb ? what do u think. andy Answer: sounds like you need to adjust the mixture screw and lean it out. if you take the flap off, but keep the choke cable to help move the accelerator/throttle plate then this may help too.

ID: 6921 | Date: 04/10/09 | Member: redrocket29 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: cutting out Question: how easy is it to lean it out what screw should i do and how much of a turn as im im new to carbs could u explane as iv got quite a high speck if u read my profile and dont want to mess the car up thanks andy Answer: have you read any of the technical articles on the solex 32 dis carb yet? to lean it out, you turn the mixture screw inwards (clockwise). screw it in gentley 1/2 turn at a time with the car running. the car will start to sound rough. then wind the screw out (anticlockwise) until is sounds better and revs freely. also go and sniff the exhaust - it shouldnt smell fuelly.

ID: 6922 | Date: 04/10/09 | Member: Noserick | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: interior lights Question: hi my interior lights have stopped working i was woundering which fuse these run of? Answer: not a clue mate. although i always thought it mentioned it on the fuse guide on the pull down flap, or even in the electrical section of haynes manual?

ID: 6923 | Date: 04/10/09 | Member: redrocket29 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: choke light Question: hi should the choke light be on when the choke is on and up as mine is not and how would i fix it if i need too thanks Answer: yes, the choke light should only come on when you pull the choke lever. - there is a plug attached to it. - make sure its connected, and make sure the dash bulb is ok too!!!

ID: 6924 | Date: 05/10/09 | Member: jonnyshaw49 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: oil cooler Question: hi i have just fitted new mocal 10 row cooleer with braided hoses and thermostat, now its fitted can i just start the car and will it work straight away, or does it have to be bled in a certain way etc, do i need to put in more oil now the coolers installed. since putting my new ally rad on and cooler the car wont start but this could be just co incident, the car is a project in the garage anbd is run weekly after the engine rebuild carb jetted, then had the headwork done ported and polished not re jetted, the car still ran ok but abit lumpy started it every week, havnt started it for 2 weeks fitted cooler and rad and now it wont start, took plugs out there black and sooty carbon fouling fuel mixture to rich,putting new plugs in today and see what happens, also took the intercooler pipes off the turbo and in the front propellor port and right hand side going into intercooler its coverd in a black oily substance is this a breathing problem thanks Answer: take the king lead off the dizzy and turn the car over until the oil light goes out. then turn the car over for a further 10 seconds. then let the oil settle for a few minutes, then check the oil level. i think it's a coincidence that the car will not start. the oily residue is from your breather system - time to fit an oil breather filter. try and force the car to start by using carb cleaner or deodorant down the top of the carb. - then keep it running for a bit. - if it fails to fire with this method, then suspect that your TDC sensor/wire is duff. - I.e is the car sparking when you turn it over?

ID: 6925 | Date: 05/10/09 | Member: jonnyshaw49 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: oil cooler 2 Question: hi i have now got my gt running, changed the plugs to bp6es as the others had carbon fouling, car started first time and got it bled up. once warm pressed accelerator revvs wud suddenly drop before rising then let it off and car would cut out, start car again and it would run lumpy revving between 1000 and 2000 rpm tried winding mixture screw in and out makes no difference. cleaned idle jet whiuch had 45 stamped on it no dofference then tried an idle jet out of another carb with 44 stamped on it, wouldnt start. havnt got a clue now whats wrong with it please help lol Answer: have you made sure the very tiny hole in the very end of the idle jet is clean? - you need to hold it up to the light and see. - it only takes a tiny piece of debris to partially block it. it also needs to be air tight - you should have a rubber seal on it, or even some PTFE tape over the thread. you need to make sure you mixture screw actually has a rubber O ring on it, and that the end hasnt snapped off in the base too. you also need to try spraying carb cleaner all around the carb whilst running, to see if you have any air leaks - the revs will rise if there is one. i'd say you have crap in your carb though. also worth trying the old WD40 trick - get a can , with the straw, and when the idle jet is out, put the straw as far into the whole left in the carb as possible, then spray for 20secs. - does seem to work wonders.

ID: 6926 | Date: 06/10/09 | Member: redrocket29 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: swirl pot water Question: WHEN UNDOING THE LID ON MY SWIRL POT TO CHECK THE WATER I FOUND THE WATER WAS MURKY ON TOP THEN WHEN I RUBBED MY FINGER ROUND THE EDGE OF IT THERE WAS SMALL SOFT RUSTY COLOURED LUMPS. COULD THIS BE DUE TO THE CAR HAVING SAT AROUND FOR SOMETIME, A DIRTY POT OR THE HEAD GASKET? ANY IDEAS? AS ITS WELL LUMPPY WHEN IT STARTS Answer: do a compression test on the engine and all will be revealed. its most likely the fact that you have a cast iron block and iron does rust....

ID: 6928 | Date: 06/10/09 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: starter motor wont disengage Question: Wiz, when starting the car it takes 2-3 times for the starter motor to engage and try turn the car over, and when it eventually does it wont disengage. The ignition barrel is ok as i have checked with a meter and turned over plenty of times. i have had 1 startermotor overhauled by professional company that even has a new ring gear, and another motor which is 2nd hand and is in working order and the fault still occurs whichever motor i fit. Can you shed any light as to what the fault maybe Answer: well, you can test it yourself for a start. if you take it off the car, earth the body and then apply 12volts to the solenoid. - the gear should shoot out., when the power is removed, it should fly back in. if it this off the car, maybe you have voltage entering the solenoid, even when you have the ign switch in the 'on' position. you can check it with a voltmeter - ign in starter position should read 12v, ign in on position it should read 0.

ID: 6930 | Date: 08/10/09 | Member: Dan y | Wizard: Sparkie

Subject: Brake Master cylinder , rear brake lines. Question: Hi wiz , where do the brake lines from the rear go to at the front of the car, is it the master cylinder if so which of the 4 ports on it are they ? here is a pic , if needed http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=10801 thank you - Dan Answer: check this out http://www.rtoc.org/files/Renault%20Diaolgy/Renault%205/Brakes/00049024_1.png they do goto the master cylinder, and id suggest they goto the two ports closest to the servo.

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