| ID: 6865 | Date: 11/08/09 | Member: harkin51 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Turning over but not starting II Question: Hi, there is no spark Thanks Answer: suspect the aei relay, or the tdc sensor is faulty. |
| ID: 6866 | Date: 11/08/09 | Member: A17AMB | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: changing engines Question: will a renault 21 turbo engine go in a phase 2 r5 gt turbo Answer: no, the gearbox will not fit the block. |
| ID: 6867 | Date: 13/08/09 | Member: jonnyshaw49 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: carb pipe connections Question: hi i am a little confused on 2 connections on the passenger side of the carb 1. at the front passenger side of the carb there is part of the carb that sticks out horizontally is this for enrichment or something? it has a connection for a hose pointing towards the front of the car. Is this to go to the front port on the actuator for the cup mod? 2. on the passenger side of the back of the carb above where the aei pipe goes onto the manifold there is another pipe connection at the side of the throttle control. what pipe goes onto this connection is it a vaccum pipe? would apreciate any help thanks Answer: 1.- its the enrichment circuit and that pipe goes no where. do not block it off, its a breather, and doubles up as a fuel drain if the gasket inside breaks. 2. if you are on about the thick brass coloured port then block it off, as fuel and boost comes out of this. |
| ID: 6870 | Date: 14/08/09 | Member: jonnyshaw49 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: front actuator port pipe Question: hi sorry to ask you another question about the cup mod. i have tried looking it up but there are no diagrams to show me exactly where the pipe goes on the carb base they just show a pipe going to the bottom of the carb. i cant find it anywhere. all my pipe work was taken off when i had a rebuild and i cant find the connection on the carb base that goes to the front port of the actuator for the cup mod. the pipe on my engine to the front port has been put on what you said was the fuel enrichment connection which is wrong. please could you tell me exactly where the connection is on the carb base is it underneath at the front?sorry for the essay Answer: is this no help? http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4756 |
| ID: 6871 | Date: 15/08/09 | Member: mad murdoch | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: -blank- Question: hi wiz,wat is the next uprated clutch from the volvo valeo,iv got that model now but clutch is slipping,havant had it long either and i dont drive like a nut either. lol Answer: you need a paddle clutch. you use a volvo cover and either an AP or helix centre. its a 4 paddle sprung type. |
| ID: 6872 | Date: 15/08/09 | Member: toby | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Wiring loom Question: This is a long shot i know, i don't suppose you know what the wires on the plug for the interior loom are on a clio 16v? I'm doing a c1j conversion in mine, and the 16v has alot more cables on the interior loom connector than a 5. The only cables i'm stuck for are the brown cables. I know its a long shot but any help would be really appreciated. Answer: have you looked at this yet? http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=18 |
| ID: 6873 | Date: 15/08/09 | Member: jonnyshaw49 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: idle problems Question: hi i had my renault 5 engine fully rebuilt and then rejetted and set up. a few weeks later the valve stem seals were leaking so had the head rebuilt and ported and polished and put back on but the jets were not changed. since having the car back the car wont really idle untill warm and needs the choke on till warm. then when the choke is turned off the car runs at 1000 rpm but sounds lumpy when you then rev the car and let it back off the car idle comes down and drops below 1000 rpm to about 800 rpm and struggles to idle? have you any idea what could be wrong and what i could look for? does the carb need rejetting after headwork? apreciate any help thanks Answer: have you tried cleaning the carb out again first? you might have to richen the mixture up by unscrewing the mixture screw alittle. |
| ID: 6874 | Date: 16/08/09 | Member: rtoctimgt5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: get boost Question: hi want or how can i turn the boost up on my car as its only doing 0.5 bar ive put the nut on the actuater arm to the top as got told that would make a difference or am i best taking car getting it rolling rd and set up???thanks tim............. Answer: you need to shorten the actuator arm. clamp the arm, and turn the end. |
| ID: 6875 | Date: 16/08/09 | Member: Harry Dockerty | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: steering column creaking Question: Hi wiz, My steering columnn makes a creaking noise when turning the wheel tightly, such as when parking. Doesn't happen when cornering generally except on very tight corners (such as in residetial streets). Sounds like the noise is coming from just behind the steering wheel, perhaps it is related to the steering lock or is there a bearing in the dash somewhere? there is no free play in the steering wheel. Any advice would be greatfully received before i start taking the dash to bits! Many thanks. Answer: its most likely this... http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4731 |
| ID: 6876 | Date: 16/08/09 | Member: rtoctimgt5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: get boost Question: hi wizz sorry if i sound stupid.....but how do a make my actuater arm smaller....all that seems to be happening is i can screw the nut on the arm towards the turbo and back towards the actuater and i can not see it doing anything sorry if ive not understood you on your last reply cheers tim............ Answer: look at this turbo pic carefully. http://www.mazdamaniac.com/upgrade/Actuator.jpg undo the locking nut. remove the circlip. clamp the arm coming out of the actuator with molegrips. turn the end of the actuator arm, that pops onto the turbo arm a few times. lock it up pop onto wastegate spigot push on circlip. |
| ID: 6877 | Date: 17/08/09 | Member: rtoctimgt5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: get boost Question: thanks for advice and picture ive now got slight lag but i am hitting 1.5 bar rather than 0.5 so can live we that exhaust still poping and spitting this could be because my exhaust is strate through no silencer??? Answer: yes, no silencer will mean pops and bangs. if you have a standard carb, you will shortly be asking me for advice on headgasket changing, whilst running 1.5bar. |
| ID: 6878 | Date: 18/08/09 | Member: rtoctimgt5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: fuel Question: hi wizz think the carb is group a carb!!?? but if not whats best poss bar to use as dont want to fry car cheers it was 0.5 now at 1.5bar allmost and thats only half shorting the arm like u said on actuater cheers Answer: 1.5bar is plenty, but you do need to see if its running lean. either a friendly member with an afr meter or a rolling road session will sort this out. |
| ID: 6879 | Date: 18/08/09 | Member: rs250nut | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Cam selection Question: Before I go silly and change the engine for something with a bit more capacity I want to attend one more rtoc pod day with a c1j powered five. My question is what camshaft should I pick for maximum torque and power. The car is only going to be used for the pod and maybe a few track days. I have a gt2554r with .42 comp housing and a.49 exhaust housing. Custom grind from cat or anything you can suggest. Answer: i'd personally use something a little wilder than a piper 285. the 285 is perfectly capable of delivering the goods, but for track days you will need a larger torque spread than the piper 285. - hence why they made a piper 300. i wouldnt go for mega lift as it will seriously strain your valve train. cat cams are prett good - i'd look at some they have on offer. dont forget the uprated springs! |
| ID: 6852 | Date: 19/08/09 | Member: turbopi55y | Wizard: Scoff |
|
Subject: Anti perc fan sensor wiring Question: hi! my renaoult 5 gt turbo ph2 is 100% standard, i am replacing the Anti perc fan sensor with a new one, but at the mo, there is only one wire connected to it, but there are two terminals. what are the two wire colours that connect to this? As at the momment there are 2 wires that join to make one? is this corect or not? thanks Answer: Hi, The anti perc fan sensor that sits in the turbo heat shield above the turbo is wired in parrallel with the sensor that is screwed into the inlet manifold below the carburettor. In other words, the wires go to one sensor then they are piggy-backed off and go to the other sensor. They are wired in such a way that when the contacts of either sensor are connected together the anti perc fan will start up (parrallel, not series). Wiz. |
| ID: 6880 | Date: 24/08/09 | Member: Shakes | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: no ignition lights on dash, the car turns over but doesnt fire up Question: hi ive recently fitted my engine into a new shell, but cant get it started, there is no ignition light on the dash, however the rest of the dash lights work, lights indicaters etc, and the gauges work, it turns over but doesnt fire up, the fuel pump is not working and there is no spark from the aei. i have fitted a brand new tdc lead, and replaced the coil pack, all the earth wires are connected. im tottaly stuck here, hope you can help, many thanx luke Answer: are all the positive wires connected to the alternator and/or the battery? - sounds suspiciously like you have dropped a slight clanger there mate. the other thing that springs to mind - change the relay next to the aei in the scuttle tray. - if this is faulty the ignition unit sees no power, no sparks are produced...oh and the fuel pump doesnt work. now you'll tell me there is an aftermarket immobiliser on there too...... |
| ID: 6881 | Date: 27/08/09 | Member: smiffy | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: dump valve working properly? Question: Hi wiz I have fitted a dump valve and it works fine after I have been on and of the boost about 4 or 5 times but not before is this normal? Or is there a leak some were? Thanks Kev Answer: what type of dump valve is it? if its a piston type it will be sticking. - you need to take it apart and clean it. if its a diaphram type, you need to take it apart and clean it! and check that its not split. also check the vacuum tubing is ok. |
| ID: 6882 | Date: 27/08/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: boost Question: whats the standard boost setting. Answer: 7psi |
| ID: 6884 | Date: 28/08/09 | Member: daniboi | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: will not start Question: hi there, been running my 5 for a couple a months now. after taking to santa pod it will not fire up with the key and must be bumped off, after running it runs ok but as soon as is turned off will not fire back up, when turning the key it brings on the hand break light but not oil or engine light , any ideas? thanks Answer: check that the alternator is actually working and that the battery is working ok. use a voltmeter when the car is running. |
| ID: 6886 | Date: 31/08/09 | Member: daniboi | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: starting Question: checked alternator , is running but but not to full power. batterey is fine as will hold charge. also tryed with jump leads but would still not bring up engine or oil light, does the alternator stop power to the starter ? Answer: the alternator is directly connected to the starter. it sounds like it might be duff. |
| ID: 6888 | Date: 01/09/09 | Member: cokigtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Hp Handling!! Question: Hello Wizard.. Wants to know about the 225gearbox !! how much hp it can handle !!? Answer: i dont think anyone has really pushed that gearbox to its limits. - id guess its gotta be good for 300bhp. |
| ID: 6887 | Date: 01/09/09 | Member: KeefaGT | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: anti perc fan Question: Hi is there a wiring picture for the anti perc fan system as i have some real dodgey wiring and am hoping i can replace them without doing the whole loom.Thanks Answer: how do you mean dodgy wiring? are the ones over the turbo fried? - all the sensors are in parallel. i dont think haynes early renault 5 edition has a perc fan loom diagram? |
| ID: 6889 | Date: 01/09/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: standard boost hoses or cup mod. Question: whats the difference between cup mod set up. or standard boost hose set up running at 12psi on a standard T2. is there any difference in performance. And why to hose ports on actuator. Answer: have a read... http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4756 |
| ID: 6890 | Date: 03/09/09 | Member: french_coswoth | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: no exactly a problem, but. Question: hi, just wondering how and were to get my car uprated? its running 280 bhp at the minute, im getting my upgraged mounts in at the weekend and as soon as they're in im looking to get a bit more bhp in my baby any help or advice on where to go or anything cheers anth Answer: i thought the 21turbo ecu was able to be reflashed fairly easily? - i know the french R5 guys are using the r21 ecu when going full efi. in which case it'd be a matter of increasing intercooling, turning the boost up abit and adding extra fuel and fiddle with the advance.... |
| ID: 6891 | Date: 04/09/09 | Member: french_coswoth | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: hot to wire a fan up on a twin fan Question: hi i alreay have a switch for my fans but ive took it all out and ive converted them to 2 10" fans how would i wire this into a switch in my cab cheers anth Answer: you need to find a positive wire under the dash. connect that to one side of a switch. then connect the other side of the switch to a long wire (with an inline fuse in it). feed the wire into the engine bay. connect it to the two positives of the fans. connect the negatives of the fans to the car body. however, you are supposed to put a relay in there, but judging by the fact you are asking how to wire a switch up, i dunno if you'll get what im saying. :) |
| ID: 6892 | Date: 05/09/09 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Carb setup for 18psi Question: Hi, sorry if a bit long winded. Currently running a completely rebuilt engine with all new internals,uprated headgasket/bolts with a KTR 180 turbo, Pace Alloy intercooler and PX filter, wondering what jets would best be suited for running between 14-18psi? Currently running 1.4 main an 0.9 a/c in a standard carb.I have uprated cooling system with copper rad an low temp stat an fan switch to cope along with samco boost hoses an volvo 480 uprated clutch, Idles an runs ok at moment but get some black smoke when mildy reved on choke and grey smelly smoke after bein on boost (plugs are sooted up too).Also after being left to idle for a few mins when reved the engine splutters before picking up. I have a couple of spare carbs to play around with so open to suggestions i know all cars are different but after a generalisation, Ta Answer: change the a/c to a 125 and see if its better. better to get it on an afr meter tho! |
| ID: 6893 | Date: 05/09/09 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Carb setup for 18psi 2 Question: ok will try that gonna swap main jet for a 1.3 as well, sound like a safe setup? Im not bothered about fuel economy or running a bit rich as car is not a daily driver an would rather over fuel a bit than blow my engine up. Answer: i wouldnt put a 130 main in and run 18psi. stick to the 140 for the moment. |
| ID: 6894 | Date: 08/09/09 | Member: Jonny5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Carb problems Question: Hi wiz, asked you few days ago about problems with my car seemingly overfuelling (Carb setup for 18psi topic)you suggested changing a/c jet to 1.25 as my setup was 1.4 main and 0.9 a/c. Well have taken carb apart an all is well apart from the a/c is already a 1.25! One thing i did notice was the large brass jet that has a black washer under its head, and is housed in the fuel bowl was extremely loose. What is it? was does it do? and could this be the cause of my problems? Thanks once again Answer: the large jet in the base of the fuel bowl allows fuel to be sucked up by the accelerator pump diaphram. it may sort out some of your running problems. you REALLY need to get hold of an afr metre and read what your carb is doing on and off boost. there have been loads of topics on this over the years. most involve drilling the 2nd stage enricher and making the main jet smaller. - this allows extra fuel on boost up the rev range, as opposed to more fuel accross the whole rev/boost range - which is obviously bad for your fuel economy. |
| ID: 6895 | Date: 09/09/09 | Member: daniboi | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: starting and running Question: hi there , after changing alternator and still no change in bringing engine light on even when battery is fully charged the car will not start unless bumped off. the main problem seems to be that something is draining the battery as the car is running even though all electrical item are turned off. yesterday after changing the alt i took it for a run and after 10 mins the battery started to die and the car after needles bouncing from not enough power died. ad to get a freind to come and charge batery for 10 mins which got me home. been told if there is a break in the wire or if the bulb goes in the dash for the engine light this can cause the alternator to stop working correctly, how true or any other ideas ? thanks Answer: there are a few things to check here. there should a be a big fat red live wire that connects to the positive of the alt. this then goes over the top of the gearbox and joins to the big stud/nut on the bag of the starter motor. there is then a second big wire that comes off the back of the starter motor from the same stud and is then clipped to the bulkhead. this then connects to the positive of the battery. the neg of the battery attaches to the body of the car, as does the alt negative. the regulator - the two wires at the centre of the alternator - the yellow and the purple one are essential. - one turns on the batt light on the dash, the other supplies battery voltage to the alternator, so that it works correctly. check all the wiring first. if you still get stuck it will be worth your while getting an autoelectrician on it. |
| ID: 6896 | Date: 10/09/09 | Member: RAGOONEY | Wizard: Sparkie |
|
Subject: Jets Question: I want to achieve around 180-90bhp, I have done all the engine mods, uprated head gasket, T25, FMIC, alloy radiator, uprated clutch, uprated fuel pump etc. But now I need to modify my standard carb before taking to the rollers. What main jet and air corrector do you recommend? as some people say you dont need to change them, just the turbo enricher.....don't know what to do for the best?? Answer: ok, so you ask the boards before you ask me, get loads of info, then ask me to decide which one you go for??? get an afr meter else your car may blow up. the old school way of doing it was bang a 140 main in and leave the a/c alone and hope for the best - this would be ok for 18psi. but cause alot of black smoke, and contaminate the oil with fuel very quickly, which can lead to bottom ends blowing. the newer way is to tailor the fuel curve as best as you can - i.e enlarge the 2nd stage enricher to about a 1.2mm hole. etc etc, but you will definately need an afr tool. i'd go so far as to say its one of the most important tools you could get with a carb'd car. |
| ID: 6897 | Date: 12/09/09 | Member: RAGOONEY | Wizard: Scoff |
|
Subject: Jets 2 Question: Thanks for your info. I have read two long posts refering to re-jetting the carb. I think I will leave the 2nd stage alone for now as I don't have a wideband controller yet. To fuel upto 18psi I am going for a 140main jet and 0.9a/c and see how that goes on the rollers. Do you reckon that will be ok or would you start with a bigger a/c say 1.0, 1.1 ? Answer: No, as mentioned, steer clear of 1.4mm main jets in standard carb body's. It'll be way too rich off-boost. If you don't want to drill the 2nd stage then go for 1.3mm main and a 1.0mm air corrector, that should be fine enough on boost but still a little rich for my liking off-boost maybe. suck it and see. Make sure that the rolling road operator is watching AFR carefully. Do not try prolonged full-throttle yourself until the AFR has been checked. |