| ID: 6804 | Date: 08/06/09 | Member: jules-ward | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: wheel size Question: most knowledgeable one, i have an egg shape rim on near side rear so am looking to repair if possible or replace complete set. have found some really cool ones but don't understand how they have written the sizes the specs are 6.5 x 15" (i understand that bit) 4/100/108 et 38 will they fit my car. Answer: the pcd you need is 100mm. im sure the gtt uses ET 35-38. so they should fit ok. |
| ID: 6805 | Date: 08/06/09 | Member: r17antony | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: 32dis card , fuego turbo Question: the vac hoses for the ecu , overboost , dump valve where should they be connected on the 32dis carb , cheers tony Answer: they shouldnt fit on the carburettor oh yellow one. the vac hose needs to go from the manifold, then t'd for the dumpvalve, then goto the ecu/aei. the carburettor need the fuel line in. it needs a boost feed to the accelerator pump body. and a feed off the carb top should also feed the boost reference on the fuel pressure regulator. all other enrichment device pipes need to goto open air - well away from the manifold. |
| ID: 6806 | Date: 08/06/09 | Member: french_coswoth | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: cracked manifold Question: hi wizard, i have a r21 turbo and recently discovered a crack in my maifold of which the turbo sits onto, the crack is a large one and continues onto my turbo, the car is loosing no pressure or boost, but now and again the car will kick out a bit of blue smoke(obviously burning oil) only when ive used the turbo and the car drops rev by relesaing the throttle a freing reccommended to get a new manifold which are like gold dust and really expensive would you reccomened to temporarly cat iron weld the manifold until i get a new one? ive been running the car like this for 3 weeks or so and car is running fine just excessive fuel consumption and the smoke any ides or help? Answer: personally, i'd get it welded. it will last longer than you might thin. you also need to have a look why it cracked. - have you had a look at r21 owners club?they are a helpful bunch.... and will know more about your overfuelling problems. |
| ID: 6807 | Date: 09/06/09 | Member: cokigtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Lean AFR 2 !! Question: Thanks Wizard for answering my question.. Also i will buy another 12 mm nut from germany and try. I have tried more thing! i'm running one injector witch show me on the gauge 11.8 AFR, so i have connect one more else injector and the AFR been more rich 1:10 AFR, and when its ok it been 1:10, and when the problem start it get to lean AFR again 1:16 !! how can you explain me that problem ? Thanks . Carlos. Answer: which afr meter are you using? |
| ID: 6809 | Date: 11/06/09 | Member: r17antony | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: vac hoses , 32dis carb Question: thanks wisard , but a small problem , no vac outlets on fuego manifold , there is two blanked off by factory , only outlets are on the carb , two on the left hand side vertical , and the fuel pump one on the right , any more ideas , cheers the " yellow one " Answer: you will have to re-aquaint me with the old beast. you might have to tap a hole in the manifold, that way all the problems may be sorted? or if you fit a boost gauge to each of the ports on the carb to see which one is running vacuum, whilst blocking all the others off.... |
| ID: 6810 | Date: 13/06/09 | Member: Kenobi | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Turbo spooling. Question: What things could affect or change the rpm that the turbo spools up? Why do some spool up quicker than others. Thanks. Answer: depends on the A/R of the exhaust housing and how big the blades are that the exhaust gas has to push round. also depends on the cam and exhaust you run. |
| ID: 6811 | Date: 13/06/09 | Member: mattieboy89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: gt tuning stage1 turbo Question: Hi would i be able to bolt a gt tuning stage 1 turbo straight onto the car as the old one packed in so i got this one cheap, not to sure whether i can put it on without uprating the head gasket? cheers Answer: yes, you can put it on without doing the headgasket. you will need to check that the oil feed fits to the turbo without modifying. |
| ID: 6812 | Date: 13/06/09 | Member: mattieboy89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: lowering the rear Question: Hi wiz just wondering is it a hard job adjusting the torsion bar, ive replaced the front shocks and springs no prob but not to sure on the rear? cheers Answer: articles are your friend.... http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4516 |
| ID: 6813 | Date: 16/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: cup mod Question: i recently did the cup mod with my actuator pipework (breather pipes have had cup mod done for a while now) i now have a pipe from the bottom of the carb straight to the actuator! I dont know if its just me but the boost dosnt seem to come in till 500rpm later and i cant see why doing the cup mod would cause it! Could it be due to the air not going from the carb top to the base of the car any more??? Answer: have you read this? http://www.rtoc.org/boards/showthread.php?t=4756 |
| ID: 6814 | Date: 16/06/09 | Member: mattieboy89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: in car boost Question: hi wiz on the diagram for the in car boost what is the hose that leads to nowhere? and can i use any lambda sensor for the af gauge? one last thing, this is a great service, ive solved a few little problems which have been bugging me. cheers mate x Answer: the in car bleed valve, lets abit of boost go to atmosphere, so it tricks the actuator into thinking the turbo is producing less boost than it actually is. the pipe that goes 'nowhere' merely leaks the boost that it doesnt need out to air. - it might have fuel smells in it and it can whistle quite loudly - which is why you want it leading out into the engine compartment. you can only use a WIDE BAND lambda sensor. they are generally more expensive than narrow band types. - they are found on certain VW/audis. the OE number is listed on this site somewhere.... :D |
| ID: 6815 | Date: 16/06/09 | Member: Dan y | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Continental rear lights Question: Hi wiz I live in Germany and need to swap my rear clusters for continental ones so the fog is on the left. If i fit the cont lights will they work as they should do or will i have to mess about with the wiring. just thinking the fog will come on when i reverse and reverse come on when the fog is on , Thanks - Dan Answer: you might well be right there. thinking about it, just fit them first. see if they work. if they dont - cut the wire and feed a wire under the boot lining to the correct side and vice versa. |
| ID: 6816 | Date: 17/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: cup mod 2 Question: that all seems to make sense but the thing i was wondering is i had all ready done the cup mod to the exaust side to actuator and with me breather pipes. But changing the pipes from the carb elbow and carb middle to the cup mod made the boost come in later. Could this be due to air not being able to go from the carb elbow to the middle of the carb(by passing the carb)any more? until the boost comes in then itll opperate the actuator or is this not how it would work???? lol sorry bout the essay am just curious!!! Answer: just try taking the actuator feed from the top of the carb, and see if it changes anything.... :) |
| ID: 6817 | Date: 18/06/09 | Member: french_coswoth | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: boosting Question: alright wizard, hope you can help me mate, right i was using my car yestarday and in the morning was pulling as usual, let car cool down went had some tea etc, went back out in car waitied for it to warm up, started driving and car was not boosting correctly, boost gauge starts at -0.8 whilst stationary and sits at around 1.1 when fully boosted, now the furthest the boost will go is 0.2 full trottle!! dump valve still goes off but just ins'nt pulling at all, is a tiny amount of boost but nothing now! all pipes tight and intact, can you offer e any advice of help thanks anthony Answer: check the actuator ontop of the turbo is still operating the turbo. also check that the turbo shaft can still spin - it might have seized? |
| ID: 6818 | Date: 20/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: how much bhp Question: could you give me a verry rough idea of what sort of bhp i may be running?? i have grp a head gasket grp a carb (28mm venturi 130 main 0.9a/c) slight head work t2/t25 turbo pace double cappacity intercooler lightened balanced flywheel piper 285 cam boost 22psi scorpion big bore exaust standard bottom end. I know this dosnt mean much as every car is different but a rough figure would be ace!! Answer: about 200-220bhp at the flywheel. |
| ID: 6819 | Date: 20/06/09 | Member: mattieboy89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: boost gauge Question: hi wiz i fitted a sw boost gauge today and im getting a reading of 0 on tick over and 15hg when you make it dump. Have i fitted it in the wrong place of is this normal? cheers Answer: you need to plumb it into that dumpvalve vacuum line. |
| ID: 6820 | Date: 20/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: what bhp Question: sorry forgot that was for a r5 gtt!! Answer: i know ;) |
| ID: 6821 | Date: 20/06/09 | Member: mattieboy89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: boost gauge 2 Question: is that the line that comes of the front of the dump valve? cheers mate Answer: its the very narrow bore tube, that goes from the inlet manifold to the aei. the dump valve is t'd into it. you boost gauge needs to be t'd into that line. |
| ID: 6822 | Date: 25/06/09 | Member: Harrison01 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Hunting Question: hi, Just rebuilt my engine with a piper 285 cam with a standard jet and up rated head gasket etc. after priming the oil system the car started up 1st time however, once warm the car wont idle properly. it seems to be 'hunting'. ive adjusted the mixture screw and idle, made no difference. cleaned the idle valve, no difference. could you share some light on what it may be. Answer: did you use a vernier pulley when you fitted the cam? - it could have been ground slightly 'off' and this maybe why its not idling correctly. you could check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold area and carb base, when the car is running. - if the car starts to rev higher, you have a leak. if you rev the car, does it rev cleanly, once its above 1500-2000rpm? - if it does, then you need to clean your carb out, as the idle circuit is partially blocked. might also be worth checking the number stamped on the idle jet - is it a 44 or a 45? - things work better with a 45 fitted. ;) |
| ID: 6823 | Date: 25/06/09 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: MOT failure passenger wheel arch Question: Hi Wiz, on the passenger side of the car where the wheel arch contour is visable when looking inthe engine bay i seem to have a gap where i can see through to the wheel and floor- (i can see this becasue the mud flap was removed - and lost) apart from the mud flap should there be something else there becasue the MOT chap has told me it is a MOT failure becasue some sort of structural issue being that it is within 30 cim close to the suspension... does any of this make sense or have i got something fundamental missing? chris Answer: ok, you might have to take photos of the area...but. ill try to explain what there should be. as you follow the wheel arch contour down, it the reaches a little flat bit that the death connector attaches to - right behind the passenger headlight. - between, that and the top of where the wing bolts up, there is a gap, that should have an arch liner/inner arch - to stop dirt flicking up.. |
| ID: 6824 | Date: 26/06/09 | Member: mattieboy89 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: boost gauge Question: hi wiz fitted my boost gauge to the vaccume hose and its reading -15!! what does this mean? the car boost fine and ive checked all the hoses for splits so i dont have a clue, please help!!! cheers Answer: the turbo doesnt kick in until 2500rpm or above. from idle up till that point, the engine is 'sucking'. its perfectly normal. |
| ID: 6826 | Date: 28/06/09 | Member: Steve miles | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: -blank- Question: hi cant seem 2 get my turbo 2 boost properly,have now changed neary everthing on the car 4 new stuff including all the pipes to samco and the turbo is a brand new t28 dragstar which has a 360 thrust bearin and a t3 actuator from gt tuning,pace intercooler,copper rad,twin dump,all filters,plugs and leads but still dosent boost propery,for example when drivin th car u have rev it at 6000 and only get a slight movment on the boost gauge,have had people look at it but no joy,could it be electrical thanks steve Answer: depends what the exhaust AR is on that turbo... if its a 0.86 or a 0.64 it will be laaaaaagy. |
| ID: 6827 | Date: 28/06/09 | Member: JamesF | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: re headgasket 1 Question: Hi wiz, Ok, so i have now took the head of my car again today and it looks like the headgasket was blowing from the piston and liner i just replaced into the coolent which would explain the pressuring i assume? The other problem with the water getting into the oil i assume is because the liner wasnt seated correctly it moved really easy. So my question is, is there a proper way to replace the liners because im sure ive done something wrong. Its like it sort of rocks in there. I only used the rubber seal too, no sealant. Would i be best using that aswell Cheers James Answer: take all the liners out and check there s no rust debris sitting on the ring where the liners sit. - when you put the conrod and piston in, try not to knock the walls of the block as this will knock rust off onto the sealing area. just use silicone sealant as well as the liner seals. |
| ID: 6828 | Date: 29/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: crash Question: i had a little little prang into a railing long story at bout 40mph hit the fromt o/s and now that wheel is tracking out now by about 10 degrees! wahat are the chances that not to much damage has been done to the suspension/subframe? Do you reckon itll be better just to change the whole subframe steering rack hubs wishbones etc...? there is damage to the bumper wing light bucket etc.. but these arnt my main concern atm!! Answer: well, my raider driving friend..... if i were you id get underneath it and have a good look around. - it doesnt take much to kink the subframe in, where the wishbone attaches to it. - for peace of mind, i'd probably change it. its also worth checking that you havent bent the bottom of the shock absorber or the hub - as ive had a car that had both of these! - feel the gap between the inner edge of the tyre, and the damper unit behind it - they should be the same left and right. - if not then you have bent the hub/shock unit. - worth checkin!!!! |
| ID: 6829 | Date: 30/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: crash2 Question: ok so i looked at the hubs and subframe the gap from shock to wheels seems to be roughly the same and the wheel seems to be at the same degree of camber as the other.Is it possible to just get the tracking done and see how it goes? How hard is it to swap a subframe with all the wishbones,hubs etc... still attached i assume you have to support the engine with a crane or something while you do this? Answer: you could get away with just the tracking, but summat must have bent somewhere... - it could be just the tie rod. to swap the subframe is quite a job. - some might say its easier to take the engine out with the subframe and swap it that way. |
| ID: 6825 | Date: 30/06/09 | Member: Mr 5 | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: running lean after 10seconds part 2 Question: ok wiz, i checked the voltage, 14volts constant while running, also checked pressure at carb, 4psi idle,rises with the boost and rests 4psi above boost pressure with no fluctuation. where can i look next to solve this sh!tty problem ? fankoo Answer: It's definately 4psi above carb top boost pressure that you are reading ? If it is then the problem must be with one of the following: 1) AFR meter giving bogus results (unlikely, unless LC-1 ;-)) 2) One or both of your boost and fuel pressure gauges are fibbing. 3) Something internal to the carb is causing a problem. Assuming you are not using an early LC-1 and that you are confident of the gauges then the likelyhood is no.3. I know you have a 2mm needle and that you have removed the fuel filter in the carb fuel inlet. That leads me to believe that either the float isn't working as it should or that something funny is happening with the fuel level in the emultion tube. I think either you need to try a different carb top half to rule out the needle, float, etc and failing that try jetting up a whole new carb body to see how you go. Wiz. |
| ID: 6808 | Date: 30/06/09 | Member: cokigtt | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: Lean AFR 3 !! Question: AEM wideband .. Answer: Ok, adding extra injectors does not stop the float chamber from emptying, so this doesn't fix the problem. You need to keep the fuel level in the carburettor up, so either you need to increase the size of the needle jet (try 2mm or more) but sometimes this can cause running problems. Or, use an injector to fire fuel into the base of the carburettor. You can replace the 12mm nut at the bottom with a fuel pipe, and inject extra fuel into this hole when you are on boost. This should keep the fuel level in the carburettor nice and high. The standard needle jet in the carburettor starts to get restrictive at about 180hp. So if you are making much more than that then you will certainly need to do as I said above. Wiz. |
| ID: 6830 | Date: 02/07/09 | Member: R5GT-GOO | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Oil leak from sump Question: Hi wizard Can you please point me in the right direction my r5gt was leaking engine oil from the sump gasket i removed the sump cleaned and replace with gasket paste it was fine for 2 days then starting leaking again i was wondering what could be the cause and also is there a proper gasket for the sump. Thanks tom Answer: depends where it is leaking from exactly. the gtt only uses two horseshoe shaped seals at the end of the sump - the rest is sealed with sealant. - it is adviseable to use sealant on both sides of the horseshoe seals and also use a double line of sealant around the perimeter of the sump. also use good sealant! |
| ID: 6831 | Date: 02/07/09 | Member: R5GT-GOO | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: breathing heavy on top end Question: Hi I am having an issue with the sump gasket leaking i was wondering if its because its breathing heavy on the crankcase could this cause a problem? plus should it be breathing heavy or do i need to strip the engine thanks tom Answer: its unlikely to be breathing heavy enough to cause a leaky sump. if you think it is the engine, do a compression check, and it will reveal alot. |
| ID: 6832 | Date: 06/07/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: brake compencator Question: My brake compencator has rusted up and seems to lock the rear brakes easily when there is no weight in the back. When I got the car there was a cabletie around the compencator. I was wondering if it's possible (as I will be removing the back seats) to just do the cabletie a bit tighter? Would this sort my braking problem? Answer: does it still have the adjusting rod attached?- or is the cable tie taking the rods place? - sounds like its worth making a rod out of threaded bar and a few nuts/ hook and adjusting it properly on the road until the rear doesnt lock up. |
| ID: 6833 | Date: 06/07/09 | Member: Os8472 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Air Leak Question: I recently changed the master cyclinder, all the copper lines and the flexi hoses on my R5 but ever since the brakes seem to have an air leak. When the engine is running, if you press the pedal alittle you can hear a constant flow of air, I'm guessing its being sucked in as the engine is useally showing vacuum when you press the brakes, but if you press the pedal abit further the leak stops and the brakes bite and bite hard. I'm thinkin the seal between the master cyclinder and servo is leaking, any ideas? Answer: turn the car off, pump the pedal till it goes hard. then with your foot pressing hard on the pedal, start the car. - the pedal should drop slightly under your foot. - it it doesnt then i think your servo could be shot. also worth checking all the one way valves to the servo too. |