| ID: 6770 | Date: 30/04/09 | Member: brooxy10985 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: turbo type Question: What kind of turbo does my 2004 megane 225 have i.e t2, t25?? Thanks Answer: im not sure off the top of my head. i'd pm Adam L and tell him the turbo wizard sent you. he will know for sure! |
| ID: 6771 | Date: 02/05/09 | Member: mr bean aka pete | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: laggy T2 Question: hello mr wizard im having trouble with my t2 its really laggy starts to boost at 2.5k and fully boosts by 4.5k am running standard jets with a drilled out 2nd stage 1.3 have no leaks in standard piping have fitted a known good actuator and replaced back exhaust housing hold a bar of boost constantly,have tried cup mod but seems tobe more noise than any go, just really laggy could it be the turbo's fubar or fuelling being to rich ????????? Answer: what cam are you running? have you checked the boost at the turbo and compared it to the boost entering the engine? it could be that you have a leak somewhere. try putting the first stage down to 0.9 and see if that makes it better. if it does you can bet your 2nd stage is too big. |
| ID: 6772 | Date: 04/05/09 | Member: R5GTTRaider | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: oil breather to telephone hose Question: can you tell me if the hose that comes from the top of the oe oil catch tank to the telephone hose causes negitive vacum in the rocker and crank cases on boost. and that smoking on idle can be the casue of blow past of oil in to the compresser? cheers as always Answer: the pipe from the oil seperator to the telephone hose has a manifold connection in it, in off boost situations this is under vacuum. easiest way to get cancel out the breather as a cause of smoking, is just to pull off the seperator pot and keep the car running whilst hot for 15mins. if it smokes, then the problem is turbo or ring related. |
| ID: 6773 | Date: 06/05/09 | Member: jules-ward | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: thicko Question: just bought my r5gtt 89 f reg it's had some work done by gt tuning. she doesn't smoke when starting or when cruisin @60-70 but wheni use the power i get a puff of white smoke.Does this sound like my turbo's cakapoopoo'd and how can i tell wot type it is. soz 4 the essay but i need some help Answer: dont worry about a small puff of white smoke. its when you are getting loads of blue smoke as you decelerate is what you have to worry about. only real way to tell what turbo it is, is to take it off and look at the a/r numbers on the housings. - dont bother- just drive it. |
| ID: 6774 | Date: 06/05/09 | Member: Jamie Eddolls | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Internals Question: Dear Wizzard, What's the max amount of BHP I can run safely on standard internals? Thanks Answer: well over 230bhp... how much are you actually looking at trying to get? |
| ID: 6775 | Date: 07/05/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: group A or standard Question: i have a standard rebuilt carb with a 130 main jet and a group A carb witch one would be best for a T2 and whats the safe boost pressure to use. Answer: standard carb for the t2- 15-16psi with the 130 main. |
| ID: 6776 | Date: 08/05/09 | Member: ScottGT | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Turbine Chatter? Question: I'm running a standard T2 at 12psi so would blanking off the DV really cause much damage to the turbine? Answer: it will be fine. if it was 20psi, you might have to think again. :) |
| ID: 6777 | Date: 09/05/09 | Member: Mr 5 | Wizard: Scoff |
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Subject: running lean after 10seconds Question: hey 'wiz :) ok,had this problem a while. car is running 210bhp(fly)@18psi,got RR'd in November.since then nothing has been modified or altered on the car and fuel/boost and torque graphs were all *** on,drove amazingly well....until.... in the past few months i noticed afetr 7-8seconds of full throttle through the gears it would start to hold back,checking the afr guge they had risen from the usual 12.2 to 14+ ?! drives fine,idles fine,boosts fine but only for 8seconds? changed pump,regulator,filter,lines,checked vac pipes,checked,stripped and cleaned carb...nothing changed, fitted larger needle valve into float,now i get roughly 10-11 seconds full throttle.....where next? someone said maybe a fault with AEI but am not convinced. cheers pal :) Answer: As I'm sure you know already your problem means you are emptying the bowl in the carburettor. You need to get right back to basics. The carburettor needs 4psi of positive fuel pressure all of the time. That means 4psi at idle and 4psi more than *carb top* boost pressure while at wide open throttle. So, measure your carb top boost pressure (I guess it'll be about 21psi) and then measure the fuel pressure by fitting a gauge into the fuel line entering the carb. If you have 21psi of boost in the carb top then you NEED 25psi of fuel pressure. If you have less than 25psi of fuel pressure (assuming 21psi boost at the carb top) then you need to re-investigate the pump, filter, lines, regulator and so on. If you are seeing 25psi then the problem lies with the carb itself, be it the needle jet or float operation or something along those lines. Something else important to bare in mind too: The fuel pump wants 13.5v on it with a running engine. If you are seeing low fuel pressure then this is worth a try: I've solved a few problems like yours by wiring the fuel pump up with fresh 20A wire and a new relay triggered from the orignal fuel pump relay. It's possible that your wiring has deteriorated or the relay has got problems and perhaps your pump is getting something much less than 13.5v ;-) Ofcourse, if the pump doesn't get a good healthy 13.5v then it isn't going to work to it's potential. Wiz |
| ID: 6778 | Date: 09/05/09 | Member: BigBoost83 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: slicks Question: hey guys, what wheel and tyre size would you recommend for santa pod, are standard r5 wheels ok with slicks any advice would be most helpful cheers Answer: alot of people appear to use 14 inch rims with quite high walls.- this is to effect the gearing, so you cross the line in less gear changes. 20" high tyres is a good size for standard gearbox ratio's and GTT's with around 200hp. real drag tyres (like M/T or M&H) will be a lot better than track slicks, but track slicks with a good burnout (they need heat in them to work) will be better than nothing. standard rims with slicks will be fine to get you going though... |
| ID: 6779 | Date: 11/05/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: its a gear box not a juke box. Question: hello there i,m finding it hard to get into first gear and when i put it into reverse its grinds then crunches when put in gear. there seems to be some slack in the clutch cable at the end nipple near clutch lever ive cut a slot in a couple of nuts and put over the cable and still the same. Answer: you need a new clutch pedal ratchet or a new renault clutch cable. if this doesnt help then maybe your clutch is on its way out. all gt's crunch into reverse as there is no synchro on that gear. maybe worth draining the gearbox oil ands filling with new stuff. |
| ID: 6783 | Date: 16/05/09 | Member: dingo22033774 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: engine knocking Question: i have a problem with a rattle/knocking in the main block of the engine or head, when the cars cold (first started) there is no knocking just tapping as it warms to normal temp is strarts rattling/knocking, when reved up the speed of knocking goes up n down with the engine. can anyone please help im stuck. cheers paul Answer: pull the plugs off one by one. if the knocking stops then you know which cylinder u have a problem with. could be piston slap. little end rattle or big end rattle... |
| ID: 6784 | Date: 17/05/09 | Member: dingo22033774 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: knocking 2 Question: just been out to the car i pulled the spark plugs off 1 by 1 and there is still the knocking sounds like it is coming from underneth when u stand at the front of the car. changed the oil for some 10 40 semi synthetic to see if it would ease off a bit but hasent worked. if i was to take the sump off and have a look how would i diagnose piston slap or the shells being knackered. bearing in mind the engine has only done about 1300 miles since rebuild thanks paul Answer: if you take the sump off, and undo the caps, when u take them off u can see the shells if they are shot, scratched etc. the piston slap u cannot really tell until you look at the piston sitting in the liner. you might have a knackered oil pump....which caused the engine to eat itself. |
| ID: 6780 | Date: 17/05/09 | Member: jonnyshaw49 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: gt tuning recirculating dump valve Question: hi i have bought a gt tuning recirculating dv set up. there are to pipes one coming off the dv itself and a pipe coming off the main boost hose which holds the dv t piece. could you tell me where i pipe these 2 pipes into. there about and inch in diameter. are these what make the dv recirculating? do i connect the vacuum pipe off the top of the dv into the aei unit?. thanks Answer: the gt tuning dump valve is just a standard fit on alot of cars bosch dumpvalve that had the ends cut off and two metal pieces bolted in place. the inch hole at the bottom, goes in the hole in the boost hose. the inch hole out the side of the unit, goes to the turbo inlet feed or airfilter - its where the air is relased as the valve opens. the small vac hose in the top of the unit joins the vac line to the AEI unit. |
| ID: 6782 | Date: 17/05/09 | Member: jonnyshaw49 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: gt tuning spider valve Question: hi can u use the cup mod with the spider valve set up, as one of the pipes off the spider valve goes to the turbo elbow which is removed during the cup mod and also on the spider valve set up both ports on the actuator are used. help im confused lol thanks Answer: you cant really use it in the same way as before. i think you just use one side of it. and remove the actuator port connection that is closest to the actuator arm. |
| ID: 6785 | Date: 18/05/09 | Member: dingo22033774 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: knocking 3 Question: hi again ive taken the sump off and took all the main caps and big ends off to check the shells and they all still look brand new. i cleaned the oil pump off no probs there. could i check for piston slap from underneath the engine or would i have to take the head off. what would i be looking for, for piston slap. it looks like its gotta go to garage :( Answer: you would need to measure the piston to liner gap at the top, middle and bottom of the stroke, and also measure the skirt of the piston. did you just check the main caps, or the conrod caps too? |
| ID: 6786 | Date: 21/05/09 | Member: Tillax | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Suspension ride height question Question: Hi there, I have just had installed a set of koni sport shocks front and rear and have heard that it is necessary to adjust the ride height at the back by adjusting the rear torsion bars. The question I have is how low/high should the back be relative to the front? I am aware that the rear should be higher than the front but by how much? I have lowered the front by around 30mm. Thanks Answer: just lower the back by 1 spline to start with. |
| ID: 6787 | Date: 21/05/09 | Member: dingo22033774 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: knocking 4 Question: checked the main caps all 5 and just checked the con rod nearest the fly wheel but theres no play up and down on em jus that little bit side to side. but would you suggest pistonj slap as the liner pistons rings are all brand new from ktec and the car has never been driven hard. driving me mad :) Answer: what is the surface of the bearings actually like?- scored or 'wiped'? it wont be the rings. - most likely the piston- liner gap is too big....or that the little end is knocking - the gudgeon pin is rattling in the piston. or even the cam is rattling in the block. have you checked all the tappets are ok? |
| ID: 6788 | Date: 23/05/09 | Member: dingo22033774 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: knocking 5 Question: big end and main caps are brand new looking not even scored. could be cam as it hasent been changed. defo not tappets ive adjusted em about a million times. do the pushrods need beddin. cause the push rods were bought second hand from 5 alive. Answer: check that the pushrods arent bent. the cam followers could be worn, where they run over the cam, but they tap, very loudly all the time. the cam can wear in the block which would cause a rumbling and knocking noise. if you could use a mechanics stethoscope to diagnose where the noise is coming from, it might help. |
| ID: 6789 | Date: 23/05/09 | Member: Purple5GTT | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: renault 5 gts Question: hi, would it be possible to put a turbo into a renault 5 gts. i am trying to build a track car, what do you think, cheers 4 any help Answer: a turbo, or a turbo engine? what engine is in a gts? - 1.4 injection or 1.4 carb? |
| ID: 6790 | Date: 23/05/09 | Member: rjmms | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: power loss @ 4,000 rpm in 3rd & 4th under power Question: Hi Wizard,i have a H reg gt turbo (think its a phase 1) it completely loses power at about 4,000 rpm in 3rd 4th & 5th when giving it a rodgering,1st & 2nd are fine. I have removed the dump valve and blanked the pipe T off to no avail.HELP.... Answer: what boost are you running? have you taken off the overboost sensor wires yet? have you changed the fuel filter recently? have you got a standard fuel pump? |
| ID: 6791 | Date: 25/05/09 | Member: dingo22033774 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: knocking 6 Question: hi wizz ive given up im gonna take it to the garage see what they can do. one more question cann you fit any sort of garrett turbo on a five if u were to have em rebuild or can you take the compressor housing n that off and change it. cheers m8 paul Answer: its never as easy as you are making out. you need the t2/t25 manifold connection.- not t3! you will more than likely need a new turbo oil feed. you will also need to rotate housings, and maybe redrill holes for actuator mounting brackets. |
| ID: 6792 | Date: 30/05/09 | Member: danielmk323 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: big ends and main shell bearings Question: hi wizard i need some advice on what bearings can i use on my 5gtt and if the reno ones are any good for my 200bhp 5 they told me that federal mogul ones are good can you help me pls Answer: AE or federal mogul are fine. they are all pretty similar. :) |
| ID: 6793 | Date: 31/05/09 | Member: philr5t | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: brakes Question: hi wizard thinking about running bigger brakes on the car 285mm discs a kit from hi spec inc calipers i think i can only use a 15 inch wheel with these discs will this affect me when running a set of slicks at the pod am i going to be wanting to run a smaller wheel size for better acceleration or bigger for top speed hope this makes sense cheers Answer: let me ask you a question.... when you brake hard....do you lock up, or suffer brake fade? if you suffer brake fade, then yes you need bigger better brakes. if you start skidding, then you need better tyres.... most drag guys on here seem to run 14 inch wheels.... |
| ID: 6794 | Date: 02/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: best place to Question: where is the best place to "t" off for a boost gauge? At the moment i am using the origonal boost gauge hose but this dosnt show vacume. I have been told to "t" off the hose from the manifold to the aei unit is this right? Also what does showing the vacume acheive? many thanks Answer: you have been told correct. the vacuum can tell you if you are running economically and also if you have any leaks in the aei/dump valve lines. you also can see how much boost your are running in the manifold - i,e after the carb... |
| ID: 6795 | Date: 03/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: in car boost controller Question: is there any downside to running an in car manual boost controller due to the pipes having to be long to run into the car? the controller was all ready installed in the car when i bought it so all i have to do is connect it but i want to know if a under bonnet bleed valve would be better? Answer: no downside at all with the incar bleed valve. |
| ID: 6797 | Date: 04/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: boostgauge Question: ok so i fitted the in car bleed valve and teed the boost gauge into the pipe from the carb base to the aei unit. The gauge now reads -0.5 bar at idle then as low as -1 bar when you put your foot down until the turbo comes in then it reads 1 bar does this all sound right to you? Also that same hose from the carb base to the aei unit goes to the top of my dump valve to close the piston is this right? Many thanks for all your help! Answer: yes thats perfect! |
| ID: 6800 | Date: 08/06/09 | Member: SCHWARTZ | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: oil pressure Question: the standard in car oil pressure gauge reads 2 then as the car warms up goes down! it never goeshigher than 2 but the car dosnt over heat or anything like that. the car has plenty of oil also. is this how it should read or is my pump not working as it should? cheers geez Answer: the aftermarket gauge is notoriously shite. get an aftermarket gauge and sender unit to see what its really doing. |
| ID: 6801 | Date: 08/06/09 | Member: JamesF | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Headgasket Question: Hi Wizard, I've recently replaced a piston and liner and now have the following problems and wonder if you can help. Firstly I have alot of cream around the filler cap and secondly I cant bleed the coolant. I've tryed 3 or 4 times and every time it's pressurising itself to the point I can hear it coming out the coolant bottle cap. And thirdly if i hold the revs at any rpm it sounds like its constantly miss firing, it also feels fine on boost. I've put new dizzy cap, plugs and leads on and done a compression test which they all came out at about 145 psi. I was thinking it was either the headgasket gone but the fuelling is fine and the old gasket looked fine when i changed the piston & liner or the liner seal?any idea's? Cheers James. Answer: did u re-use the old headgasket????? |
| ID: 6802 | Date: 08/06/09 | Member: JamesF | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: re headgasket Question: I didnt, was a brand new one from GSF. Answer: ok, did you use sealant as well as the thin liner seals on the base of the liner when you changed them? have you tried pressurising the water system to see if you are leaking water out of the liner base into the sump? was the head flat or was it warped after you blew the car up? all important things matey! |
| ID: 6803 | Date: 08/06/09 | Member: cokigtt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Lean AFR ! Question: Hi Wizard.. I have problem witch start after 3rd gear at 6000rpm and 4th and 5th gears.. boost is 20 psi, td04 turbo (impreza one). I have another injector with fuel regulator witch injected after 15 psi boost. the wide band gauge shows 11.8 afr when ok after that the gauge show lean afr 14.5-16 !! when its lean and i leave the gas and boost again fast it show correct and after that the broblem back again! I have uprated fuel pump, new fuel filter.. have checked fuel pressure on boost it show correct 3 bar on boost. when the AFR lean the EGT gauge gets more than 950c. have change the 209 ecu and coil and ignition wires , nothin change ! any idea to solve this problem !! thanks. Carlos. Answer: the float chamber of the carburettor is emptying. you need to feed fuel into the base of the carb - 12mm nut, using either a pressure relief valve, or a boost operated solenoid. this will mean your carb will not run out of fuel on boost. remember the fuel is only going through a 1.7mm jet to get into the float chamber. - how big is your main jet, and enrichers??? - they allow the engine to use more fuel than the carb float chamber jet can supply. |