| ID: 6639 | Date: 18/01/09 | Member: turbo leo | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: nt runnin rite! but better. Question: hiya wiz. the car runs abit better now bt still wont idle right wen i start it up it will idle right, but after abit of driving wen i cum 2 a stop it drops to about 600rpm, better than las time cos it was jus cutting out. i changed dizzy,leads,plugs an rotor arm an it has helpd. cudnt find fuel filter gna try 2mora bt do u no wer i can get 1? las time u said 2 check the idle sensor in the carb bt havnt dun this yet cos havnt gt the gaskets, it is a k-tec grp a, do u fink this is the problem. thanks 4 the help Answer: you need to take out the large brass screw on the drivers side of the carb. then take it apart and clean it out. then make sure its properly sealed when you put it back in. then screw the idle mixture screw out alittle bit. the revs should rise. |
| ID: 6640 | Date: 18/01/09 | Member: dingo22033774 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: driving Question: no i have not changed the fuel filter but had a new pump on it so i was told. Answer: most people forget to change the fuel filter. its right next to the fuel pump. |
| ID: 6641 | Date: 20/01/09 | Member: louka's R5GT | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: wont idel till hot Question: hi wiz, had this problem since i had the r5gtt but seens to be getting worse, when start my car up i got wait till hot before taking the choke off,if i dont the revs drop and cut out. cherrs louie Answer: have you tried cleaning the carburettor. especially the idle jet and idle screw.... then set the idle when the car is hot. make sure its rich enough. then the should be better at idle. |
| ID: 6642 | Date: 20/01/09 | Member: mad murdoch | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: not starting Question: hi wiz my renault gt turbo was running fine with no problems,then i stopped driving it because ran out of tax end of october,took it off the road and sed after christmas il bring her back out again,now i charged the battrey right up and tried starting it but she dint want to no,it turns over fine but just not fireing,i took the carb top of and put a drop of fuel down the carb and she started up ran for a bit then cut out,changed the fuel pump relay but still the same,when turning it over then stop i can hear the fuel pump buzz for 3 seconds then cuts out,checked tdc sensor and its fine,any clues,,,,thank you Answer: how have you checked the tdc sensor? have you checked the ignition unit and king lead? |
| ID: 6643 | Date: 20/01/09 | Member: mad murdoch | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: problem with starting Question: hello wizard me again,iv checked the tdc sensor by plugging it out, put fuel down the carb and it dont start,i repeat this again with plugging the tdc sensor back in and a little more fuel down the carb and she started up straight away with no misfire,to me it sounds like it aint getting any fuel but not sure,it has been stood in the cold aswell,but like i said she was fine before and now this has started.iv fitted a new king lead and fuel relay aswell,please help,,,,thank you Answer: pull the fuel pipe off the carb. put it in a bottle. then turn the car over (err the wiz means crank the engine on its srater motor) . fuel should flow out of the pipe. if it doesnt then you might need to replace -the relay next to the aei in the scuttle area. -the fuel pump relay. -the fuel pump itself. |
| ID: 6644 | Date: 21/01/09 | Member: samaspinall | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: smoke Question: when i put my foot down in hi revs blue smoke comes out of the exhaust and there is a white cream on the underside of the oil cap and there is a small oil leak it also uses quite alot of water. pretty ***ed really i was wondering if it was the head gaskett ? Answer: yeah, sounds likely. try doing a compression test to see for sure though. |
| ID: 6645 | Date: 25/01/09 | Member: mad murdoch | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: relays Question: hi wizard,what does the relay next to the aei unit control?,i need 2 get a new one so just wondering,do u know if renault dealer still sell them and if so how much,.....thank for ur time. Answer: its just a normal relay. gsf actually sell them too, with the round base. it controls power to the aei. |
| ID: 6647 | Date: 25/01/09 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Aei-pipe to manifold throat Question: hi wiz what is the purpose of the pipe that goes from the aei/ecu to the port on the inlet manifold throat. as ive just snapped the bit where the pipe fits to the aei/ecu.... can i get away without it or does it need to be replaced? Answer: if you cant glue or tap a new port onto the aei, you will blow the headgasket. its what the aei uses as a reference for vacuum and boost, and advances and retards the spark accordingly. either that or find a new aei. |
| ID: 6648 | Date: 25/01/09 | Member: dingo22033774 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: driving Question: hi its paul again i took ur advice and ive changed my fuel filter the problem has improved but still not running right and shuddering when pulling of could this be down to the carb not being set up right and should i take to a rolling road to get it set up right or am i just trowing money away taking it there cheers paul Answer: it could be due to the carburettor needing to be stripped and new gasket fitted. however, if you can find a working carb to swap with yours, then id do that first - just to see if it is the carburettor. |
| ID: 6649 | Date: 25/01/09 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Aei pipe thingee follow up Question: Thanks for your advice- i've got a section a silicone vacuum pipe – which doesn’t seem as ridged as the original- maybe slightly narrower… would that be okay to use in its place? Thanks ..................................... hi wiz what is the purpose of the pipe that goes from the aei/ecu to the port on the inlet manifold throat. as ive just snapped the bit where the pipe fits to the aei/ecu....can i get away without it or does it need to be replaced? Wizard replies: if you cant glue or tap a new port onto the aei, you will blow the headgasket. its what the aei uses as a reference for vacuum and boost, and advances and ***s the spark accordingly. either that or find a new aei. Answer: yes, id say narrower is actually better as the vacuum and boost signal travels to the aei quicker. |
| ID: 6650 | Date: 26/01/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: witch jets Question: hello mr wizard would it to be safe to use a 1.3 main jet 1mm air corrector on a standard carb with a t28 turbo and uprated fuel pump running at 17 psi. if not what jets do i need. Answer: i would say yes it would be ok, but you really need to check the afr on full boost! |
| ID: 6651 | Date: 26/01/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: no battery light when ignition is turned on Question: hello mr wizard since my car broke down one day at a petrol station when i went to start it wouldent turn over at all i was stuck there scratching my head so i did a silly thing by putting a wire from the starter motor live then battery it turnd the starter motor (hoory) but when i came to start it again there has never been no battery light on the ignition and the battery ran down after a couple of days it seems a bit it slugish but another problem may of caused it i dont know. could i have busted the alternater. Answer: with the car running, you need to check the output of the alternator with a voltmeter. sounds like there might be a broken wire somewhere, as the alternator regulator needs to see the battery voltage to actually make power. |
| ID: 6652 | Date: 27/01/09 | Member: Jamie Eddolls | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: jetting Question: Hi, Wizard! I would like to know what size carb main jet I would need to run 1 bar. My mods are; group 'a' head gasket set, 4-1 manifold,fmic, bmc air filter, side exit exhaust,dump valve, big bore turbo elbow and crossover pipe. with a standard t2. Thanks Answer: i would either leave it as standard or put a 125 or 130 main in. you need to then really check the afr... |
| ID: 6653 | Date: 28/01/09 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: boost- oh for some boost Question: mr Wiz. So... i've completed the cup mod- and there has been a reduction of boost- (as expected) As far as i can tell everything is air tight. the bit behind the turbo(closest to the rear of the car is blocked) i have an inline 3 way bleedled valve which is inline from the front actuator port to the base of the carb with the 3rd exit to the dump valve. apparently having turned up the boost it doesn;t result in any real change- any idea where i have gone wrong? if neds be ill take some pictures.... help eeeek CHris Answer: the bleed valve should not go to the carb base. you are leaking off fuel vapour into the engine bay. plumb it from the actuator to the carb top. you also need the 3rd port on the bleed valve to leak to air. the dump valve needs to see vacuum and boost from the manifold to aei line for it to work. |
| ID: 6654 | Date: 29/01/09 | Member: mad manz | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: idle and power problem stll not fixed Question: i had the carb fully stripped and rebulit but still no luck the thing it just too lean on idle and it wont richen up and when i do put my foot down it over fuels and let of loads of exhaust smoke and there no power after 3000 rev i starting to loose patients now plz help me wiz Answer: ok, firstly do a compression check to see that your engine is actually ok. i would check the two one way valves on the back of the manifold are still actually working as a one way valve. -block the breather one off temporarily. - see if this improves things. when you stripped your carb did you take the idle mixture screw out and see if the O ring is present and that the end of the screw hasnt snapped off in the bottom of the carb. - if it has you wont be able to adjust anything. most people forget to check this. also take out your idle jet and measure the hole in the end of it, and see if its still the same size as th number printed on the side of it. most GT's run a 44 or 45...but people with a heavily cammed engine sometimes drill it out to 50 (0.5mm). if yours says 44 on the side of it, change it to a 45... ;) as for the overfuelling thing....have you correctly plumbed the vacuum and boost system? - remember the tube that attaches to the enrichment circuit should not be blocked or be attached to anything! |
| ID: 6655 | Date: 30/01/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: witch jets Question: ive had enough of trying to set up my t28 because i have no time to get set up on a rolling road. so im going back to my t2 and want more boost out of it. i have a standard engine with a group a gasket and standard carb. i have a sellection of main jets and air correcters and i want to put a k-tec t3 actuater on my t2 and whats the best jets for normal boost at cruise and when i turn in car boost up whats the max boost i should use. Answer: you can run 14psi on the standard carb and standard t2. i wouldnt really want to run much more on the standard t2... although you can maybe put a 130 main in and turn the boost up to 17psi. you do really need to look at the afr though. instead of the 130 main jet you might wanna try drilling the 2nd stage enricher out to a 120... |
| ID: 6656 | Date: 01/02/09 | Member: Wallace | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Compression Test Reading Question: Hello Wizard, Just done a compression test and found all but one cylinders reading 150psi+ (Which from previous post is a good reading?!) Cylinder No.2 (No.1 being on the perc fan side) has a reading of 125psi. a)I've read previously about a 10% drop being normal but am thinking it strange to be on just one cylinder! - are there any know problems with the crank wearing down more on one side than other etc (if that makes sense! :-)) b) Any suggestions on further tests? i.e.gasket incorrectly torqued, or general wear and tear in the individual cylinder? Thank you for your help........... Answer: it is alittle odd... if you add a table spoon full of oil to cylinder 1, then crank it over, see if the compression goes up. if it does, then you have a piston ring sealing problem. |
| ID: 6659 | Date: 03/02/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: best place for vac hose Question: hello wizzy is it best to run in car boost k-tec bleed vave from top lobster elbow or at bottom of carb. Answer: top of lobster. anything from the bottom of the carb has fuel and air mixed together. |
| ID: 6657 | Date: 03/02/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: carb jets Question: how do mr wizard i have a group A carb with a 1.35 main jet and a standard air correcter. i have a standard engine built by Ian at euro motor sport with a group A head gasket kit what boost can i run a T28 at cruise and what max can i turn it up to. do i need to change the jets if so what to. i have a selection. Answer: you really need an afr meter or take it to a rolling road. the grp A carb is notoriously difficult to set up correctly, without seeing what changing the jets are doing to the fuelling. alot of grp A carbs are different, so if i say change the jet to a 150, then it might overfuel badly, or it might not, depending on exactly what someone has done to it. |
| ID: 6658 | Date: 03/02/09 | Member: Jamie Watts | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: oil leak, oily smoke, Question: hi wiz, ive just fitted a rebuilt engine into my r5 and i started it up and it has an oil leak, cant see where, any ideas? also when its running its burning oil, but i would assume it wudnt be rings as its just been rebuilt with new pistons and liners? or valve stem seals, could it be oil in the breather hoses? as i had to put a new engine in as i cracked a liner in the old one, do you think it coulld be any follow on symptoms? Thanks. Answer: the oil leak - check the rocker cover seal, the sump seal, the timing cover seal, the turbo oil return, the gearbox....the list goes on.... pull off the oil seperator pot, run the car for 5mins and see if the smoke disappears. - if it does, then you have a breather problem. did you fit the rings the correct way round? did you check to see how much the valves rocked in the guides? could also be the turbo... |
| ID: 6660 | Date: 04/02/09 | Member: d110rkjste | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: stupid started to batt wire Question: how can i stop my turbo breaking the wires from the starter to the battery. it keeps melting or breaking inside Answer: there should be clips that hold the wire from the starter to the battery against the bulkhead. - well away from the turbo. the wire then disappears through a hole into the scuttle tray area. if it really bugs you, then you can route the wire nearly all the way along the svuttle tray area - past the fan, and then through a hole, down to the starter motor. |
| ID: 6661 | Date: 05/02/09 | Member: WhiteR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Wheel clearance with R5 Filler neck Question: Hello, i have removed the aux tank and pump and fitted the filler pipe from a standard 5 but i have 15" wheels and the wheel is agaist the filler neck. Question do i need spacers or is it fitted incorrectly? cheers Answer: how low is the car? |
| ID: 6662 | Date: 06/02/09 | Member: boost-boy | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: cant run more than 10psi boost without deternation. Question: hi wizard, as the ***le says really any ideas? have a ktec double intercooler, ktec 180 turbo, new head, gasket and bolts - ktec group a carb - what would you recommend i do? its only seems to be under load in 4th/5th . would a rr session at bbpt help? are they any good as they are within a reasonable distance from me?.....look forward to your reply - thanx simon Answer: wasnt this a thread on the boards? how do you know its detonating? first of all check the head thickness.- measure it with a vernier or a metal ruler. any less than 72.3mm i'd say you have got problems. then check the ignition unit vacuum retard/advance capsule is working - just suck the little port on the black 'ufo' and see if it can hold a vacuum. if it cant - the internal diaphram is fecked - that controls advance and retard, and can blow up your car. i would then think about ditching the group A carb, for a standard one. - as the standard one can fuel fine up to 14psi with out any mods at all. if you can hear tapping from the engine, check ur dumpvalve isnt knocking on the rocker cover or the exhaust isnt knocking on the steering rack. |
| ID: 6663 | Date: 06/02/09 | Member: WhiteR5 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Wheel clearance with R5 Filler neck Question: Hello, the car has not been lowered at the back yet. Regards, Lee Answer: what width are the wheels you are running? - are they 7 inch wide or are they bigger? it sounds very odd that its rubbing on the filler neck. it does sound like it needs 're-adjusting'... |
| ID: 6664 | Date: 07/02/09 | Member: Rusty | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Big Bang Question: hey wiz how you doin? When in 3rd gear and reach 4k revs i get a hesitation and then a bang like a shotgun going off, out of the exhaust! Any clues as to what is the problem? Answer: what bost are you running? - do you still have the overboost sensor connected? |
| ID: 6665 | Date: 10/02/09 | Member: 6129 | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: poor performance Question: ive tryed all types of turbos intercoolers boost hoses vacume hoses standard carb group A carb fuel pumps vacume pipes fuel regulater one way return valves dizzy cap fuel filter fuel pipes plugs both manifolds dump valves and even blocking dump valve of properly. also ive tryed every carb jet going. And still cant get it to go like a rocket its embarasing. i have a group A carb with a 350 main and a standard a/c T28 T3 in car boost group A gasket uprated fuel pump. the car seems to be better with my t2 but not like other cars but the T28 dosent seem to be as good does this need AFR on rolling road. and also if i block of the one way return valve at manifold would it make a difference in performance. have you nodded off yet lol. Answer: blocking off the one way valves would only make a difference to performance if it was knackered. -have you done a compression check on the engine? -what boost are you running? - t28's only really benefit from running over 15psi. -you REALLY need to get the AFR's read. too much fuel and it'll knacker your rings, oil, eventually bottom end and also give you funk all power. |
| ID: 6666 | Date: 10/02/09 | Member: JIB | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: tyre sizes & speedo Question: Hi Wiz,I must say it's good to have you back! I just have a couple of questions that you have probably been asked before, I have 17" boots fitted to my car, the do have alittle bit of tyre rub, they are wrapped in 205/40/17 rubber, would it make any difference what so ever if i changed the tyres to 195/40/17? My second question is, seeing as the rolling radius is different, is it possible to get the speedo re-calibrated? If so, where can I get this done? Many Thanks Answer: you can't get the speedo recalibrated as the increase in rolling radius is a percentage of the original tyre rolling radius...hence the difference at 30mph is less than that at 70mph. you need to type your details into one of the online rolling radius calculators that is out there. 40% of 205 is more than 40% of 195....hence it will have a larger rolling radius. |
| ID: 6667 | Date: 10/02/09 | Member: r5turbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: runs lumpy only and cuts out Question: hi my friend my r5 runs lumpy and cuts out only when it wants can do it cold or at operating temp when it does cut out if you put your foot on brake the rev counter goes up and down and jumps about a bit been to ktec had new plugs leads cap rotor fuel filter seemed to be ok for a week now its started doing it again do have a massive front intercooler which ktec said could be freezing the carb why does the rev counter jump around thanx anth Answer: sounds like two problems to me. the obvious one it that you need to clean all the earths up. especially the rear light ones, the battery to body one, the engine to body one too. the running lumpy could be an airleak.- try clamping the breather system one way valve on the back of the manifold. if it gets better then you need to sort that valve out! also try spraying around the boost pipes and vac pipes with carb cleaner or deodorant spray to see if the revs rise - if they do, then you have a leak. you might also need to take the idle jet out and clean it. also see if the idle mixture screw has a rubber O ring on it. |
| ID: 6669 | Date: 15/02/09 | Member: Azz1.7turbo | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: smokin Question: jus had engine rebuild on my renaault 5 1.7 volvo turbo and i done 800 hundred miles and it is smokin reali bad Answer: have you checked the turbo is ok? the breather system isnt blocked? the turbo oil return is not kinked or blocked? |
| ID: 6670 | Date: 15/02/09 | Member: Chris Holt | Wizard: Sparkie |
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Subject: Raising the rear..followed the guide.. its not working... help Question: Hi Wiz, im trying to raise the rear of the car in order to fit a new set of 195/50/15 as it currently rubs on the rear bumper. i've looked on the article guide about torsion bar etc: As I’ve struggled to achieve anything I tried to lower it (following the instructions to the letter In an attempt to see if make any difference), i can remove the bar which is furthest away from the rear (Assume that is the Torsion). I’ve jacked the arm up and replace the bar and its doesn’t seem to make any difference, Am i missing something fundamental here? Does the second bar which is closest to the rear need to come out as well? Many thanks. Answer: i think you are removing the wrong bar.... why not try 195/45 r15 tyres instead - this may cure your rubbing issues instead. |